C-10 With Canyon Cages - who's dropped one?

[delling3]

I have all the plastics off the bike for some major maintenance and install of SISF's 7th Gear unit.  Considering some Canyon Cages while I am at it.  I like the price of Murph's bars, but I really prefer the look of the Canyon Cages.  The question I have is, how well do they protect that precious bodywork?  Anyone out there care to share some real-world experience?

TIA

[Hazy]

I have all the plastics off the bike for some major maintenance and install of SISF's 7th Gear unit.  Considering some Canyon Cages while I am at it.  I like the price of Murph's bars, but I really prefer the look of the Canyon Cages.  The question I have is, how well do they protect that precious bodywork?  Anyone out there care to share some real-world experience?

TIA

I can speak to Murph's bars. I have the fronts and the backs. They do the job! I've dropped my bike at least twice since I put on the bars. No damage to the bike. However I did scuff the paint on the bars where they touched the ground and I did break a top motor mount bolt once after a drop. Both to be expected. So I replaced the motor mount bolt and I have my bars painted with black and blue PlastiDip to cover the scuffed paint.

Installation takes a little time because you have to get the brackets aligned just right so they don't touch the plastic. Also, you do have to cut a little bit of the black plastic that goes underneath your side plastic. It's really no big deal. just take your time and you'll be good to go.

Here is a pic of Mae sleeping on the floor. The tip bars come in handy it such situations. 

[Outback Jon]

I can testify to Murph's bars working well.  But I now have Canyon Cages installed.  Haven't dropped the bike with them installed yet, though.  (Fingers crossed hoping to never drop test them)  I, too, like the look of the Canyon Cages.  I also REALLY like the ease of removing them for maintenance.  That's what sold me on them.  Four easily accessible bolts and the Cages come right off.  The narrow profile did make mounting my driving lights a bit more of a challenge, but I can live with what I worked out.

[Jwh360]

My bike was used to prototype the Canyon Cages, and yeah, they tested them.  They also tested them on a 'parts' bike, so they could just knock it over to see what happened.  They passed the test.  I think they look great, and are super easy to remove for maintenance.  Another bonus is the upper mount really beefs up the upper engine mount, no more broken bolts.  The only problem I've ever had is when I was really leaned over in a right hand corner and scraping the peg.  I managed to go just a little too far and scraped the bottom of the bar! 

[Mo]

Unfortunately I have had 2 different experiences with just the front on and front and back. Pm me or call for more details. Bottom line, they saved my a........ and wouldn't have Juanita without them from this point on.

Mo

[Hazy]

Could somebody post pics of what the canyon cages look like on the C10?

[delling3]

Here you go.

[Hazy]

Here you go.

Hmmmm. Interesting. and BTW, you're missing a couple screws.

[goatmar]

Here you go.

Hmmmm. Interesting. and BTW, you're missing a couple screws.

Hey I resemble that remark.    I like them.............

[Vandelay]

How much do these cost?

[worncog]

Canyon cages look good and work well. Mine are also scraped on both sides from spirited mountain riding.

Have not 'dropped' bike, But I did use the cages to lay bike over to get the last bit of fuel out of opposite side of tank on an extended venture in Texas not so long ago. Not so easy to pick up with a full touring load though.

They make great highway peg mounting location too.

[delling3]

Vandalay:  The fronts cost $335, and the rears are $155.

[RodWpg]

To me it would seem to make it drop harder on the mirror which is the worst spot for these bikes....but what do I know

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJ1_KKSb18A

! No longer available

[Mcfly]

To me it would seem to make it drop harder on the mirror which is the worst spot for these bikes....but what do I know

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJ1_KKSb18A
! No longer available

Yep... and that's why I didn't get them...  That and at $500, The better working Murph's Bars do a better job for less $$$.
I do like the quicker removal design of the Canyon Cages though.

[cra-z1000]

To me it would seem to make it drop harder on the mirror which is the worst spot for these bikes....but what do I know

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJ1_KKSb18A
! No longer available

Wonder if the bags would have been ok after dropping , why would they do the test without them on ? Haven't dropped mine with Murph's bars on but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't roll like that , especially with my highway pegs mounted the way they are .

[Mcfly]

To me it would seem to make it drop harder on the mirror which is the worst spot for these bikes....but what do I know

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJ1_KKSb18A
! No longer available

Wonder if the bags would have been ok after dropping , why would they do the test without them on ? Haven't dropped mine with Murph's bars on but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't roll like that , especially with my highway pegs mounted the way they are .

The bike they were testing on was a 'parts bike', so it's reasonable to say the bags weren't one of the parts they had.
I don't think the bags would be effected though, because it appears the rear bars extend out far enough.  As in everything,
there's a balance between function and aesthetics.  My concern wasn't bags or a cracked mirror , mirrors are relatively cheap to replace.
My concern was once the mirror hits, does the impact crack the upper faring at the mirror's mounting point?

The point was also made in past threads that tip overs usually happen when you're on/close to the bike, and it's fall
would be reduced by the rider 'letting it down more gently'.  Iffin' yer not there...  It could be bye-bye mirror...

I still wish those Canyon Cages worked better, they admittedly are better looking.

[Derick]

Another thumbs up for the murph bars. I bought mine second hand, but nothing some Aircraft Stripper and a can of plastidip couldnt fix though.

The only complaint is the PITA to get them on and off. I have ordered a thin wrench from ebay and bent it accordingly. I keep it in my tool kit for road side repairs if ever needed....but I fret the day I have to take those damn things off.

[Sourkraut]

Another thumbs up for the murph bars. I bought mine second hand, but nothing some Aircraft Stripper and a can of plastidip couldnt fix though.

The only complaint is the PITA to get them on and off. I have ordered a thin wrench from ebay and bent it accordingly. I keep it in my tool kit for road side repairs if ever needed....but I fret the day I have to take those damn things off.
I am interested in getting some "tip over" bars, and was wondering if you could elaberate as to the PITA statement. Also, where did you find a used set. I'm on a fixed income and that would help out a bunch. Paint wouldn't be a problem, as I would probably be painting them a different color anyway.

Thanks....John/Sourkraut/quote]

[Solomookie]

I too am debating getting tip over bars.  I've had a '98 (named R-10) since 2000, and have never had a drop with damage.  Last year, I purchased a second '98 (F-10), which had had its upper fairing replaced (so it was gorgeous).  Of course, within 4 months of getting it... had parking lot tip over that did some major league damage to that beautiful fairing.  Was I just unlucky with F-10, or is R-10 living on borrowed time?  That's the debate. 

Each choice has its advantages and disadvantages.  The looks of Murph's bars are too obtrusive for my personal taste.  I think the canyon cages' shape fits the design of the bike much better.  Their downside is the cost, and like other people have said, it's pretty obvious to me that the Murph's bars would be more protective.  However, I figure that some protection is better than none.  If my only choice were the Murph's bar, the bikes would stay naked.

Add in the easier removal and reattachment of the canyon cages, and that's my choice.  I can live with the additional cost because buying with PayPal credit and having 6 months to pay it back with no interest is almost like not spending money at all!   

[CRocker]

I can live with the additional cost because buying with PayPal credit and having 6 months to pay it back with no interest is almost like not spending money at all!   

Sounds a little like my wife at the mall...

[Outback Jon]

I am interested in getting some "tip over" bars, and was wondering if you could elaberate as to the PITA statement. Also, where did you find a used set. I'm on a fixed income and that would help out a bunch. Paint wouldn't be a problem, as I would probably be painting them a different color anyway.

Thanks....John/Sourkraut

There are two bolts on each side that you need to remove to get the side panels off of the bike.  The heads of these bolts are on the inside, towards the body panels.  There's no way to put a socket wrench on them, and even getting an open end wrench on them is challenging.  Then, once you've managed to get the wrench on, you have a limited swing and the bolts have an inch or so of thread that you have to undo.  I tried an offset box ratchet, but due to the design of the brackets, couldn't get it on the bolts when they were tight.  (An expensive one with a smaller head may have worked - I was using a cheap Harbor Freight one)  Best advice I have is to make sure you lubricate the threads with some anti-seize compound, so once you've got them loose, you can finish turning them out with your fingers.

I know that some have solved the problem by bending an open end or box wrench to fit, and then keeping it in their tool kit. 

[Derick]

Yep what he said.

Got them here at cog when someone was selling them.

This is what I use as my removal tool;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/17mm-Hardened-Thin-Wrench-17MM-Standard-Style-/201454906807?hash=item2ee7a5edb7:g:MWgAAOxy0zhTPKjc

Heated up to glowing red with a torch and bent it at a 45 degree angle. Makes it tons easier. However its not perfect. The bolts they use on the murph bars are SAE....where we are used to metric. I couldnt find the PERFECT sized american sized wrench so this one does OK w/ some thread locker.

[John_Atkinson]

I have read in other threads that there have been a number of issues with the Canyon Cages as far as fit and installation go.

Can anyone who has the CC bars comment?

[Outback Jon]

I have read in other threads that there have been a number of issues with the Canyon Cages as far as fit and installation go.

I thought I had a fitment issue when installing mine.  Really just took several tries to get one of the upper brackets in just the right position for it to fit.  It was one of those try 5 or 6 times, get frustrated, walk away and have a drink, come back and everything slides right into place kind of things.  And I didn't think I did anything different the last time.

[Mcfly]

AND DON'T TORQUE THE LOWER MOUNTING BRACKET BOLTS TO 40 FT/LBS.   

The Rivco t/o bar instructions are vague, and you WILL most likely strip the lower bracket bolts iffin' you wrench 'em too hard.  DAMHIK.
Just tighten the lower bracket bolts to 'goodentight'

(Yep... that was a bad day...    )