Centerstand Helper

[Bill]

  I would think (pure speculation) that one could better reinforce that lower leg section below the gusset and THEN get away with some kind of lever lengthener.

Since my C10 is lowered both ends, I find it impossible to get it on the stock centerstand by myself. I am currently in the process of shortening the stand. After cutting off the lower legs, I was surprised to see how thin the tubing is. I plan to reinforce the lower legs by inserting lengths of snug fitting rods before welding. I'll post some pics after I'm done.

[Rev Ryder]

I'll have to look for a Voyager to see what y'all are talking about there.  Maybe SISF will post a pic of the Voyager stand for educational reference ...

I posted this link to a pic below.  At least for as long as the auction lasts.
http://tinyurl.com/6rbkfho

[Centex]

Whoa - that's a centerstand.  Looks like lots of articulated stuff there.

Probably found the best solution today ... go for a 400 mile lunch run with another Connie rider and don't even think about centerstands         

[WillyP]

 

[Bob_C_CT]

I'm going to be lowering my front and rear and will be looking at redesigning the CS. I remember sometime back someone had the CS break near the junction of the foot lever and where it meets the centerstand itself. I don't remember if it was a weld failure or the tubing right near the weld. If you are going to increase the lever length I would also look to stiffen (gusset) where it attaches to the centerstand. The last thing I would want was to have the lever fail in that area, fall on my arse while watching the bike goes wherever it wants (maybe on top of you).  :-[Might make for a good viral video though

[Paulie]

Jest yesterday I scammed a lil scrap 2x4 frum a nearby Home Despot. 1 of the fellas here at worky gave it a nice band saw wedgie cut.

When Mary's avail to spot me, I'll give it a whack & report back. So far, the cost is $0.00...my kinda expense! 

signed, Chief Cheep Ba$tard

[Bill]

Just finished shortening the centerstand. I found that a 1" bolt shank was a very nice snug fit inside the leg tubing. Since the little "toes" on the front of the feet were bent/twisted/cracked, I cut the "toes" off and cut  a piece of 3/4" black pipe and split it, welded the halves on the front of the feet in their place. Also cut a wedge from the leftover 3/4" pipe (forgot to take a pic) and welded it in place at the junction of the lever and foot for a gusset. All that's left now is to install it and see if I can get the bike on the stand without suffering a double hernia. Here's some pics, last one the finished product with a fresh coat of black Rustoleum.

[ChipDoc]

That's pretty cool, Bill - looks like you did a great job!  Let us know how it works for you.

[Bob_C_CT]

Nice job, How much did you cut off, looks as if you just took it down to where the lever comes off but not sure.

[Bill]

Oops! Neglected to mention that. Took off 1 1/4", hope that's enough. I'll get it back on the bike today and let you know how it worked.

[Rev Ryder]

I'd sure think it would make a huge difference.  Mine is lowered too due to the different front end, and so it is hernia city to get her up on the centerstand without boards.  However, I like the huge rear wheel height when up on the centerstand so I won't be shortening it. 

BUT...

I'm with the OP of this thread that a better way to get her up there would sure beat having to haul and/or stack lumber to get it done.

[Bill]

IT WORKS!!        Installed the stand, gave the bike a couple of tentative heaves, planted my left foot good, lifted, pulled back..........IT"S UP ON THE STAND! Following the advice of several here on the forum, I sat on the bike and pushed off the stand, no problem. I tried a couple more practice lifts and now have the foot placement thing pretty well nailed. Thanks to those whose posts were very helpful in getting this done.  Life is good. 

[Centex]

Hard to tell from the pic ... what's the clearance rear-tire-to-ground?  That's the stock 16" rear, correct, with what tire?

Thanks

[Bill]

Hard to tell from the pic ... what's the clearance rear-tire-to-ground?  That's the stock 16" rear, correct, with what tire?

Thanks

The tire is sitting 2" off the floor, tire is an ME880, 150/80/16.

[Paulie]

Jest yesterday I scammed a lil scrap 2x4 frum a nearby Home Despot. 1 of the fellas here at worky gave it a nice band saw wedgie cut. ...

Rats. This lil 2x4 gizmo didn't help. Cutting the CS shorter looks to be the tickee.

[mf-rabbit]

Hard to tell from the pic ... what's the clearance rear-tire-to-ground?  That's the stock 16" rear, correct, with what tire?

Thanks

The tire is sitting 2" off the floor, tire is an ME880, 150/80/16.

 I went out to check my tire height while on the center stand and it was only 1 3/4" some PO must have already shortened it. No wonder my stick self was able to get it on the stand so easily.

                                                                                               Roger

[Centex]

Larger front tire or forks lowered in the tree will make the rear tire closer to the ground on the stand (and vice-versa).

Larger front tire, lowered forks and/or higher rear shock pressure all increase CS pivot height and therefore make getting up on the stand easier, all other things being equal.

Tire clearance doesn't necessarily tell me much about CS length, it does tell me about the hassle-factor to pull the rear wheel when on the stand.

As an aside (but absolutely related to the topic), with a helper present, put your bike on the CS and drop the air pressure in your rear tire a LOT as if you have a puncture.  You'll likely find the sidestand is dangerous or useless, can you hoist the bike to the CS?  What do you do when your loaded bike gets a flat on the road, or goes flat overnight and you don't know it 'till you roll it off the CS?