Author Topic: DIY electric heated seat  (Read 9109 times)

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Offline gottaride

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DIY electric heated seat
« on: December 29, 2013, 03:51:50 am »
Just sifted through a "heated seat" search looking for DIY insights. The only mention close was the Sargent kit which I'm told is no longer available through Sargent. There is one on Ebay that looks just like Sargent but I haven't really looked into it.
Size matters. In this case my hunch is a full coverage heat pad may be overkill. Some carbon filament heat pads are trimable and I'm thinking smaller will do the job, be less noticeable and draw less juice.
Anyone ventured down this particular rabbit hole?

Offline Nosmo

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #1 on: December 29, 2013, 09:09:23 am »
Maybe go to a junk yard and get an automotive seat unit and see if you can make that work.  You'd probably have to make it quite a bit smaller, though.  Don't know if they can be trimmed in any way.
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Offline worncog

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #2 on: December 29, 2013, 01:36:07 pm »
Aerostich has a couple in their catalog. No opinions to offer.
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Offline ron203

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #3 on: December 29, 2013, 02:36:12 pm »
Interesting idea. Somewhere in this forum jungle is a thread by someone who did a diy vest made from electric blanket wiring. Maybe you could find that. 
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Offline RWulf

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #4 on: December 29, 2013, 03:18:18 pm »
I did one for my Triumph. Used one of those seat cushion that vibrate and had a heat option.
I don't remember the brand. I have seen some at truck stops out west.
I had one that lost is sanity, won't work when I wanted then started on it's own. I used the
vibrate motors for the famous turn signal seat vibrator on Speedipus Rex. As show at the
Nationals.

Offline Cap'n Bob

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #5 on: December 29, 2013, 03:27:18 pm »
 Have a couple of friends who have used the pads. They said it was pretty simple. Remove the seat cover and lay it in (maybe trip a little bit for a better fit if you like), reinstall the cover. Oh yeah, install the switch. But they said they were pretty easy and work well. I'm not sure if they were the Aerostich units or not, but they were pretty much the same type.

Offline gottaride

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #6 on: December 29, 2013, 07:32:32 pm »
The old school heated seat cover in my truck has wire elements which I can feel and would not recommend for a motorcycle seat. Most recent designs use either thin carbon filament, flat mesh or tape and as a result are barely felt, way more comfortable and more efficient. Some pads are trimmable which would be good for bike seats. Sargent does in fact sell heated kits with and without a controller.

Guess some more surfing to find a deal is in order.

Cap'n Bob that Aerostich pad look pretty good, thanks.

RW we met in IF and I took a bunch of shots of Speedipus Rex. You evil man just what I need more farkleling ideas... :truce: Think I`ll restrain from installing the vibrator er  "turn signal cancel make the girls squeal vibrator thingamabob" but hey give the man points for originality. Your overall set up has given me a few ideas and has been a real help. The retracting touch screen pen for the GPS is nothing short of brilliant. I just have to figure how to make one work mounted to a Ram Aquabox. IIRC the tip of the stylus was harder than those used for say tablets or smartphones is that right?

Rather than monkeying around with cannibalizing car seat and pads it looks like the smart move is to just find a half way decent and affordable trimmable kit. Thanks anyone.
« Last Edit: December 31, 2013, 01:07:20 am by gottaride »

Offline gottaride

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #7 on: December 29, 2013, 10:31:23 pm »
Well a full afternoon of wasted urrr learning/comparing heated seat kits revealed one helluva deal. Go to heatdemon.com and check out their clearance section for a half price $25 kit. Shipping was a good deal too. It has all of the features I realized I needed.
Thin, flexible, carbon not wire, 7.5" x 9", detachable lead, 20w max output and cheap. The cheap on /off switch that comes with it will get swooped out for a Heat Troller.  I was hoping to avoid having to trim down a car seat pad and intentionally was looking for a sub 20w draw. A top layer of thin soft open cell to prevent the pad from reading through should do the trick
They make a 30W kit for use on ATVs and snowmobiles but my hunch is that all that heat and surplus coverage would roast the boys be too much of a draw. Of course you could dial it down especially if instead of using a simply switch you opted for a pulse width modulator like a Heat Troller.
« Last Edit: December 29, 2013, 11:18:34 pm by gottaride »

Offline Rick

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #8 on: December 30, 2013, 12:22:28 am »
Just ordered one!  Thanks for the tip!

Offline gottaride

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #9 on: December 30, 2013, 11:57:21 pm »
Yeah no worries Rick let me know how it works out for you. Are you gonna stick with a on/off switch it comes with?

Offline Rick

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #10 on: December 31, 2013, 03:33:14 am »
I will at first. If I find I need to I'll put in a ballast resistor and an on-off-on switch.

Offline Rev Ryder

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #11 on: December 31, 2013, 05:17:05 am »
Gobs of options on ebay.  Like this one... er two.
http://tinyurl.com/k2oqhvs
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Offline gottaride

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #12 on: December 31, 2013, 06:14:12 am »
Yup Ebay was the first place I visited and scoped out every option there. The closest they had became my second distant choice. Most are off shore shipped = time and cost, too wide but trimmable lengthwise, probably decent quality given recent improvements helped by increased sales volumes and defective prior versions based on reviews I read on line. All said it likely apple and oranges but hey ya gotta love a deal.

Offline SteveJ.

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #13 on: January 09, 2014, 07:25:26 pm »
I will at first. If I find I need to I'll put in a ballast resistor and an on-off-on switch.
Instead of a resistor that gets hot and wastes power, get yourself a solid state turn signal flasher. I have a thermal flasher on my KLR for the grip heaters that has worked fine, but I think the electronic one would last longer.
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Offline Rev Ryder

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #14 on: January 09, 2014, 07:33:01 pm »
OR
you could solder up a Pulse With Modulation control so you'd have infinite control of the power from zero to 100%.  I tried a flasher on some heated gear once and it was either too hot or too cold.  The flasher gives pretty near a 50% reduction.  In some cases this will be perfect, but it will either be on HI on MED or OFF.  It IS an easy thing to try though and it might work out for you as it did for SteveJ.  If you like soldering up gizmos though, let me know and I can post or email you a schematic.  My cost was around $20 I think to build one with three channels that handled gloves, jacket, and pants.  You could simply build a single channel or build as many as you like.  You just need the MOSFETs to do the switching.  I probably have a handful in my toolbox somewhere.
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Offline worncog

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #15 on: January 09, 2014, 09:17:16 pm »
OR
you could solder up a Pulse With Modulation control so you'd have infinite control of the power from zero to 100%.  I tried a flasher on some heated gear once and it was either too hot or too cold.  The flasher gives pretty near a 50% reduction.  In some cases this will be perfect, but it will either be on HI on MED or OFF.  It IS an easy thing to try though and it might work out for you as it did for SteveJ.  If you like soldering up gizmos though, let me know and I can post or email you a schematic.  My cost was around $20 I think to build one with three channels that handled gloves, jacket, and pants.  You could simply build a single channel or build as many as you like.  You just need the MOSFETs to do the switching.  I probably have a handful in my toolbox somewhere.

I would be interested in that skeemattik Rev. I have even been known to solder once in a while, and a multi-channel would be kool.
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Offline fartymarty

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #16 on: January 09, 2014, 11:05:31 pm »
I would be interested in that skeemattik Rev. I have even been known to solder once in a while, and a multi-channel would be kool.

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Offline gottaride

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #17 on: January 09, 2014, 11:55:47 pm »
Well crap my pants, $20 smackers for a 3 channel pulse width modulator  :'( now ya tell us. I`ve got two on my C10 and am thinking about a third all from Heat Troller at about $65 a pop. Then again I`m pretty shakey with the ol' iron. Actually just last month I invested in a good 25W pro unit, way easier. Schematics good.
+2 on the PWM vs on off switch. I adjust mine more than I would have figured prior to installing them.

Offline Rev Ryder

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #18 on: January 10, 2014, 02:45:01 am »
OK. I'm lookin. I had this posted on the old boards back when.I know I still have it.  I'll find it and get it up here.  Hang on.
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Offline BDF

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #19 on: January 10, 2014, 03:08:03 am »
For whatever it is worth, a completely made PWM controller can be had for around $20. This is one example:
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/CKMX033.htm

But I have seen others for a little less. There are also kits available that can be had in parts form for a few dollars less. Effectively all of these circuits are the same functionally, they just switch the current (and the heat) on / off very rapidly and for known ratios. So 50% on time and 50% off time would equal 1/2 of full power.

I am sure the schematic Rev comes up with will be fine also, I am just showing alternatives, not saying the ready- made ones are better.

Brian

OR
you could solder up a Pulse With Modulation control so you'd have infinite control of the power from zero to 100%.

<snip>

 You could simply build a single channel or build as many as you like.  You just need the MOSFETs to do the switching.  I probably have a handful in my toolbox somewhere.
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Offline Rev Ryder

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #20 on: January 10, 2014, 03:21:06 am »
Not sure what IC they are using. Mine is a simple 555 timer setup.  Probably about the same and a kit is way easier than digikey. LOL  20 amps is huge power.  You can always use a different FET to raise or lower the range but at 20 amps you won't need to.  IIRC mine is either 40 or 50 watts so I had to use a little larger FET, but dang... 20 amps.  I cannot remember where I came up with my diagram.  Zorlac sent me some and it might be one from him.  Still looking.
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Offline Rev Ryder

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #21 on: January 10, 2014, 03:23:21 am »
That setup BDF linked to also has a heatsink for the FET so it's really a complete deal.  Where was that stuff when I was building mine. LOL

EDIT TO ADD: You can make only a single channel or daisychain as many together this was as you like.  You WILL need to heatsink the MOSFETs.  Looks like I did beef it to 22A with the IRF540s.
« Last Edit: January 10, 2014, 03:27:56 am by Rev Ryder »
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Offline goatmar

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #22 on: January 14, 2014, 01:29:00 am »
I did my own heated seat.  I bought one off of Ebay for a car.  You get 4 pads, wiring and switch.  I installed two of the pads in my seat and the other two in the passenger seat.  Works great really cooks your butt on low at times.  Price was like $45 or so.  I have a Corbin seat too.  It's great!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Offline JimBob

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #23 on: January 16, 2014, 06:57:42 pm »
That setup BDF linked to also has a heatsink for the FET so it's really a complete deal.  Where was that stuff when I was building mine. LOL

EDIT TO ADD: You can make only a single channel or daisychain as many together this was as you like.  You WILL need to heatsink the MOSFETs.  Looks like I did beef it to 22A with the IRF540s.



Nice Rev - Thanks!

My electronics skills ain't much - I've played with some 555's but that's the most complex so far. I haven't studied this diagram yet, but I notice it say's "max 18v input", and that made me think - with my current heated gear/controller, I have to adjust it based on engine RPM because alternator output voltage varies. Would  it make sense to build a voltage controller so the input to this was a steady, say, 11/12 volts (essentially cutting off the peaks that the alternator causes) with something like a 7805? (no where did my old Forest Mim's Engineer Notebook get to?). Since you'd ALWAYS be limited to 11v, it wouldn't vary the current output with RPM, you think? Otherwise you're just appling a specified duty cycle to the input voltage, rather than a consistent/stable output duty cycle of a specified/fixed voltage.

Also, I'm not seeing any voltage control in this circuit to feed the 555 - shouldn't it have something to ensure a 5v input (though I understand 555's can handle up to something like 36v)? Or am I missing that? (like I said, my electronics skills ain't much!)


Offline Rev Ryder

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Re: DIY electric heated seat
« Reply #24 on: January 16, 2014, 09:02:53 pm »
My electronics skills ain't much - I've played with some 555's but that's the most complex so far. I haven't studied this diagram yet, but I notice it say's "max 18v input", and that made me think - with my current heated gear/controller, I have to adjust it based on engine RPM because alternator output voltage varies. Would  it make sense to build a voltage controller so the input to this was a steady, say, 11/12 volts (essentially cutting off the peaks that the alternator causes) with something like a 7805? (no where did my old Forest Mim's Engineer Notebook get to?). Since you'd ALWAYS be limited to 11v, it wouldn't vary the current output with RPM, you think? Otherwise you're just appling a specified duty cycle to the input voltage, rather than a consistent/stable output duty cycle of a specified/fixed voltage.
12-15v is no problem.  Too high of voltage is tough on the timers and they get wonky or just cook at high settings.  You MAY notice a change in heat when you stop at a red light and voltage drops, I've noticed it some... but if your battery is pretty decent you probably won't notice it too much.  What kind of happens is you get back on the highway and the heat goes up a bit, but then so does the wind chill and it's all good.  It's sort of self-compensating. LOL

I just picked up an extra left (glovebox) lid and drilled it to accept the pots and then had the little radio shack box with the electronics in it under the seat.  I had my adjustment at my fingertips and the rest of the stuff was stashed closer to the power source.  I DID have my heated blue jeans short out once and the result killed an FET, but that's no biggie.  Heated blue jeans were always problematic and prone to breaking wires anyway. 

Quote
Also, I'm not seeing any voltage control in this circuit to feed the 555 - shouldn't it have something to ensure a 5v input (though I understand 555's can handle up to something like 36v)? Or am I missing that? (like I said, my electronics skills ain't much!)
The resistors R13, R14, and R15 are 300k potentiometers.


EDIT TO ADD:  BTW, I use the CMOS Cookbook for sourcing ideas and simple circuits.  This plan is based mostly on one from there.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2014, 10:12:18 pm by Rev Ryder »
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