Been enjoying the summer, and riding whenever possible. Now with the added manual fan switch, I'm just flipping it on coming into traffic situations. Better. Still thinking about her heat though, and learning.
Have added 3 K-thermocouples w/ red LED displays. One on her chin, just under the headlight, for measuring ambient air temp. Another about 1 inch above No. 3 carb, for air temp under the tank. And the third is installed in the front oil drain plug, for measuring oil temp. The oil plug is overall 25 mm long, and I drilled a 23 mm deep hole in it, and tapped it for the thermocouple threads. Displays in degC. $5 each. Photos attached.
Also added an automotive temp sensor to the thermostat housing, to monitor the water temp leaving the engine. It is a routine sort of 1/8 NPT sensor, with a blue LED display. Sold for use in water or oil. $13. A better tool for this business, as it can easily be seen in daylight, and reads in degF. Chose to remove the allen socket drain plug on the thermostat housing and tap and install the sensor there. Fits nicely just below the thermostat that way, in its drain channel. Put 2K miles on her with it installed, and no leak or anything. Yet....
With the temp sensors all hooked up and measuring, I've been watching and comparing the new digital temp gauges with the original "vague" factory temp gauge. Some observations......
- On a 74 degF morning, the thermostat temp climbs to 175 degF and levels out after only 3 or 4 miles. It stays near 175 degF after 40 miles on the freeway at 70 mph. The oil temp will slowly climb to 165 degF after 15 miles, and will gradually ease up to 170 degF by the 40 mile mark.
- With 175 degF showing on the new blue digital thermostat display, the original factory temp gauge is pointing just at the right side of the "square" above the C. Can reasonably think of the left side scale (C) of the original engine temp gauge as starting at just 160 degF (and straight up as 212 degF) on my Connie.
- When I slow down and exit the freeway with the rad fan turned on manually, the thermostat temp goes up to 185 degF after two traffic lights, and the original temp gauge pointer just moves 2 or 3 mm hotter. Oil temp goes up slower, but goes up about 10 degF also.
- When I slow down and exit the freeway with the rad fan off , and being controlled by the auto fan switch, in two traffic lights the pointer has moved to the middle, the thermostat temp has risen to 212 degF, and the fan kicks on automatically at that temp. Oil temp heating up slower, but along with the thermostat temp. The thermostat temp overshoots the 212 degF setpoint of the switch, up to 218 degF. By the third traffic light, the temps are creeping down slowly, but not enough to turn off the fan in slow traffic. Fan goes off once above 25 mph, and entering the freeway, and after 4 or 5 miles, she settles back at 175 degF on the new blue digital thermostat temp display.
- With vent flaps on, and the rad opening closed, the temp above the carbs was just 10 - 12 degF above ambient, while at freeway speed. Legs comfortable.
Installing a 50 amp shunt next, to verify the amperage used. Interested in total output amps of alternator, with/without rad fan, etc..
Ordered a new cap for the radiator. Is blowing out the cap a bit, when temp above 212 degF today. With 13 psig cap, shouldn't be.
DaveSz