Author Topic: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls  (Read 10541 times)

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Offline Gypsy JR

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Re: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls
« Reply #25 on: February 17, 2013, 05:16:59 am »
Is there a left side control mount for the C14?  The one pictures earlier from murph's is for a C10.

Many have done a left mount. You just have to fab a simple bracket that attaches to the lever clamp (for example) and has enough flat surface to silicon adhesive the switch back onto it.

I'm really surprised but have not found one pre-made for sale.

Mine is on the right side using Murph's simple but effect mounting plate, and I've gotten so good at using it and the throttle too (hint: never try to set it when you are twisting the throttle anyway - lol) so not worried about moving it.
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Offline DGOLD

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Re: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls
« Reply #26 on: February 17, 2013, 05:07:33 pm »
Can anyone explain why Morphs does not list the Rostra unit under the C14 as it does the Audiovox?
Does he feel it is not suited for our bike for some reason?

Offline fartymarty

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Re: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls
« Reply #27 on: February 17, 2013, 07:11:09 pm »
Can anyone explain why Morphs does not list the Rostra unit under the C14 as it does the Audiovox?
Does he feel it is not suited for our bike for some reason?


I'm guessing, but I'd bet that Rostra or their distributor won't let him sell them unless
he has that large disclaimer page and doesn't recommend it for any particular bike.
Murky legal guessing for sure on my part. I'm assuming the Audiovox clone company doesn't care.

Offline fartymarty

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Re: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls
« Reply #28 on: February 17, 2013, 07:27:29 pm »
  The one pictures earlier from murph's is for a C10.
Thanks, I fixed my earlier post. That would explain why I originally missed it.
Has anybody found a sort of dark slate gray paint that is a match for the C14 switchware?
I'd like to hide my aluminum bracket eyesore a little.

Offline Rick

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Re: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls
« Reply #29 on: February 17, 2013, 09:33:27 pm »
  The one pictures earlier from murph's is for a C10.
Thanks, I fixed my earlier post. That would explain why I originally missed it.
Has anybody found a sort of dark slate gray paint that is a match for the C14 switchware?
I'd like to hide my aluminum bracket eyesore a little.

I picked up a can of high heat flat black BBQ paint.  If you sand the aluminum to give it a bit of texture, the paint sticks to it very well.  I've been very happy with the results.  Of course, it is black, not "dark slate grey".  It is also very easy to hit it again for a quick touchup if desired.

I had an '09 C14 and I painted the exhaust tips with it and it stood up very well.

Offline Gypsy JR

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Re: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls
« Reply #30 on: February 18, 2013, 12:59:32 pm »
FM, it is such a small piece, you could get it powder-coated the color you want it for not very much $ assuming you have someone close.

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Offline fartymarty

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Re: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls
« Reply #31 on: February 18, 2013, 04:23:07 pm »
FM, it is such a small piece, you could get it powder-coated the color you want it for not very much $ assuming you have someone close.

I'd have to undo the RTV silicon seal on the rear for that to happen. I was hoping that someone had already found a close match for the switchware covers so I could just mask and paint. Oh well, I guess if I made my bike pretty then I'd be expected to wash it.  :o

Offline Gypsy JR

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Re: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls
« Reply #32 on: February 19, 2013, 10:03:00 am »
FM, it is such a small piece, you could get it powder-coated the color you want it for not very much $ assuming you have someone close.

I'd have to undo the RTV silicon seal on the rear for that to happen. I was hoping that someone had already found a close match for the switchware covers so I could just mask and paint. Oh well, I guess if I made my bike pretty then I'd be expected to wash it.  :o

Well, there is that downside, I guess.....    ;)
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Offline 1965soda

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Re: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls
« Reply #33 on: March 25, 2013, 10:00:04 pm »
Good evening Rostra experienced.  I have a couple of follow-up questions. 

-I found a couple of small marine horn buttons that look like I could mount easily and in a couple of locations on the bike.  However, in looking at some of the wiring diagrams of the Rostra....I am not sure a horn button would work.  Is there logic inside the Rostra control pad itself so that when you press a button it closes the circut and sends power through the appropriate wire?  Or does it function more like a ground and the logic resides in the main control panel?

-Outside of the optional control pad and mounting bracket, is the kit from Murphs complete and will I find all the needed hardware, brackets, etc for install contained in the kit?

Thanks so much for the additional guidance!
« Last Edit: March 25, 2013, 10:51:27 pm by 1965soda »
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Rides of the past: 2002 ZRX1200, 1986 900 Ninja, 1999 Ducati 900ss, 2002 R6, 2005 FJR, 1998 C10, 1998 VTR1000, 1989 1100 Katana, 1983 CB1100F, 1985 900 Ninja, 1983 900 Seca, 1982 Seca turbo, 1982 CX500 turbo, 1982 750 Seca, 1983 550 Vision, 1974 CB400F, mid 70's Rupp :-)

Offline works4me

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Re: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls
« Reply #34 on: March 25, 2013, 11:07:04 pm »
Just to clarify, the Rostra is made for automotive use
and may not include some parts and pieces necessary
for installation on your bike. It is not "plug & play".

Offline 1965soda

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Re: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls
« Reply #35 on: March 26, 2013, 01:40:40 am »
Thanks works4me.  Understood on the intended application and it is not a plug-n-play.  I should have clarified....I am looking for some insight from those who have performed the installation regarding what other materials I may need to get to complete this on my bike.  For example....you will need to fabricate a bracket for the throttle cable and what raw materials were used. 

Thanks and let me know if you have any insight on this. 

Also still hoping for some electrical thoughts on how the control pad itself functions and if a horn type switch would work to engage the 'set' function of the cruise.
Currently in garage: 2011 C14, 2007 FZ1, 2001 M900 S4, 1983 900 Seca, 2003 ZRX1200, 1982 650 Seca, 8? Husq 430
Rides of the past: 2002 ZRX1200, 1986 900 Ninja, 1999 Ducati 900ss, 2002 R6, 2005 FJR, 1998 C10, 1998 VTR1000, 1989 1100 Katana, 1983 CB1100F, 1985 900 Ninja, 1983 900 Seca, 1982 Seca turbo, 1982 CX500 turbo, 1982 750 Seca, 1983 550 Vision, 1974 CB400F, mid 70's Rupp :-)

Offline fartymarty

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Re: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls
« Reply #36 on: March 26, 2013, 05:02:53 am »
Thanks works4me.  Understood on the intended application and it is not a plug-n-play.  I should have clarified....I am looking for some insight from those who have performed the installation regarding what other materials I may need to get to complete this on my bike.  For example....you will need to fabricate a bracket for the throttle cable and what raw materials were used. 

Thanks and let me know if you have any insight on this. 

Also still hoping for some electrical thoughts on how the control pad itself functions and if a horn type switch would work to engage the 'set' function of the cruise.


Control Pad: Since the control pad is 4 normally open switches (including the "Set" switch) then assuming that the horn switch is also normally open (normally non conducting)
and only conducts when depressed, then yes it should work as a replacement for one of any of the 4 switches on the control pad including the "Set" switch. There is also
a normally closed switch option which I have not seen on any motorcycle install as of yet. I believe that it is only used on autos where the installer wants the CC switch on
the turn signal stalk.  Here is a link to the "Rostra" instructions and the switch electrical diagram
detail is on page 21.

Throttle Bracket: Many have used only the bracket supplied, bent to suit them and cantilevered it in different ways, I used extra aluminum stock I had on hand to
make it a little more secure. Judging by reports of others, I may have over-built. I used a piece of aluminum bar stock (1/2" X 1/8" X (approx.) 6" IIRC) going over to the
bracket from a coolant tank bolt to help keep it in place. It will be your call as you do your install as to how you decide to do it. I used my own screw to attach the cable
to the throttle arm.

Other supplies: Solder; electrical tape; heat shrink tubing; plastic tie wraps; blue Loctite; other variables that you may wish to add as you see fit. I doubt that there are very
many Rostra installs that are exactly alike.


Offline Gypsy JR

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Re: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls
« Reply #37 on: March 26, 2013, 08:48:06 am »
And, if you look at the original Brian Felice how-to on Murph's site, he gives a good example of what is required for the throttle bracket, and a comprehensive wiring explanation.

Mount the actuator on the right side, sitting on the ram air tunnel, with the cable pointing to the back. Route the cable under the tank, above the throttle bodies, and down the left side into a loop back up to the throttle idler arm.

There is a universal bracket in the Rostra kit, I used that for the throttle bracket, and just bent and fit and bent and fit until it was just right. Didn't take 5 minutes, actually, with a vise and big vice grips, and a rubber mallet.

There is a ton of hints and good ideas if you search the forum for "Rostra". Granted you have to wade through some chafe.

Several of us used a very short link of the ball chain between the idler arm and the pull cable. I think this give the arm and cable a better "relationship". In any case, mine has been working for over a year, and it ran from Hagerstown MD to Eureka Springs AK and back and a few other longer rides and was flawless.
 
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Offline JimBob

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Re: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls
« Reply #38 on: January 02, 2014, 08:45:49 pm »
I know this is an old thread, but I'm curious - BigAl and FartyMarty - what did you guys decide to do?

BigAl- you get the rostra? How'd the install go?

Farty - how'd your bracket work out. Did you choose a different solution for your control switches?

On my '95 C10, I used the Audiovox controls on Murphs bracket, on the left. I opened the control and glued the perimeter of the rubber buttons to the circuit board with Goop (stuff is awesome, like thick rubber cement that holds like nothing else, very tacky). I then filled any open holes on the top edge of the controller and also glued it to the mount (in addition to the screws) to act as a seal. I've driven through torrential downpours with no issue, including a 3-hour drive home from Skyline Drive to Richmond at 30 mph. Can you say soaked?

Never had an issue with it.

All my wiring and connectors get Dialectric grease all over them - keeps water out and makes them easier to connect. I don't touch electrical connectors without any more.

As for alternate controls - you could do almost anything you want. With a spare button on your controls (i.e. flash to pass) and some electronics (say an Arduino circuit), you could make it respond differently to single-tap, double-tap, and hold. I.e. Single-tap to set, double tap to disable, and hold to accellerate/set.

Offline fartymarty

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Re: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls
« Reply #39 on: January 03, 2014, 04:49:17 am »
Farty - how'd your bracket work out. Did you choose a different solution for your control switches?


The bracket is still working fine. I used the control switch that Murph sells: http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=188
A year later I added an "engaged" LED and mounted it on the left dash in the center of that round plastic plug that most think should be a second accessory outlet. All is
still working well.

Offline C14lvr

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Re: Audiovox vs Rostra Cruise Controls
« Reply #40 on: January 04, 2014, 03:21:38 am »
I realize that this is an old thread, but never read a few of the answers asked in this one, so... Thought I'd add some of the solutions I came up with for mine if anyone else should be curious, too.

I installed my Rostra on my C14.
Since it's an '11 model, it has heated grips... Which means it has the metal cover on the right side, which totally prevents installing the control switch on the right side.

I ordered a square, flat aluminum mounting plate from Gary at Murph's, and had to do a bit of fabricating to mount it.
First, I had to drill the hole halfway down larger, so that the screw head would flush out.
Then I had to locate a replacement screw that would work in place of the one I removed... Needed to be longer, with a pan head.

Anyway, it wasn't a big deal to mount. On the 2010-2014's, it works out much better to mount it on the left, and looks great.

The Rostra kit comes with brackets to fab up the throttle cable, and BF has good instructions with pics to go by.

As for going with other types of switches... You can, but why would you want to?
Mine actually says "Cruise Control" on the switch, and helps make it look more factory.
I spoke directly with Gary at Murphs when I ordered mine, and I ordered my switch with the "engaged" light, as well as the "power" on light. It is a good investment, to aid in future troubleshooting, if you ever have a problem. It will help you know if the problem is electrical, or mechanical.

When ordering this switch, be sure to also order a second relay, just like the one the comes with the kit.

My switch is lit, which is great at night. If you go the other route you suggest, you probably won't have that. If you ride much at night, like I do, it really helps.

Gary includes a standard type cruise switch in the kit, but you have to request the one I used to get the engaged light type. Don't forget to remind him to add the additional relay. He swapped the switch for me, and didn't charge any extra. The second relay costs around $9.

The Rostra unit has all the wires necessary to hook up the different switches, with schematics that show how to do it. There's a chart that crossreferences the model number switch with the type... Normally open / normally closed.

IIRC, the total cost for my system was around $325. It took me 8 hrs to install. Toughest part was the tupperware r&r. But wasn't bad.

It has worked perfectly now since May of 2012.

This past May, I used it on a 4000 mile trip. What a lifesaver! Saved me a few tickets, too. And some fuel.
Took the same trip the year before without it... Wow! What a difference it made.
I rode with a group, and since I had the cruise and a gps, they made me lead.
Just set the cruise, and the rest of the group stayed together... And no tickets.

My advice... Spend the money, buy the entire kit, with the engaged lit switch and relay.
You won't regret it, and your right hand will thank you on your next long trip!
Bob
« Last Edit: January 04, 2014, 03:34:25 am by C14lvr »
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