Author Topic: C14 Fuse Block Options (Read 10584 times)

S Smith · « **on:** August 14, 2011, 11:06:32 am »

2 questions...
What fuse blocks are available and recommended for C14 install?
Where did you install yours and how?

Cap'n Bob · « **Reply #1 on:** August 14, 2011, 11:52:22 am »

I disassembled a Murph's C10 block and placed it under the seat for easy access. It fit well under my Corbin that way. I used a fuse-block on the FJR. A nice unit, but bigger and more involved. But more options as well. Some have mounted them in the tool kit box. Some in the front under the panels. But I like the accessibility of under the seat.

MAN OF BLUES · « **Reply #2 on:** August 14, 2011, 06:02:18 pm »

I found the Bussman fuse block at Advance Auto parts, this whole install cost me about $15, it is good for 35 amps, and will handle all the draw you can apply to the system.
Use 10 AWG power wire for the main, you can set it up fused with a big main and with a relay if you desire, but I ran mine to be "hot" at all times.

the toolbox loss to me is moot, those tools can ride along with the other ones in my side bag....heheheheh

Mad River Marc · « **Reply #3 on:** August 17, 2011, 06:20:26 pm »

What about those of us who have a 2010-11 is there still room under there for a fuseblock (If we don't want to use the tool tray)

Cap'n Bob · « **Reply #4 on:** August 17, 2011, 07:58:09 pm »

There may be if you use the stock seat pan (like your Russell). If you ride up Marc. We can try one under the seat and see if it fits.

fartymarty · « **Reply #5 on:** August 17, 2011, 08:11:02 pm »

I removed the lid of the tool kit holder and put a Fuzeblock there with the included standoff pad attached. It fits under the stock seat on my '10 but it does leave an indentation in the gray foam pad on the seat bottom. I'm happy with it but you may prefer to remove the Fuzeblock's bottom standoff pad which I think would give you full clearance. The tool kit sits nicely on top of the Kipass module as long as the bag doesn't have any holes where tools can slip out.

Mad River Marc · « **Reply #6 on:** August 18, 2011, 12:58:53 pm »

Thanks Bob, I probably will take you up on that in the next few weeks, I need to re-wire my bike to clean up wiring and fix the short that is blowing my Acc fuses....

Kieth · « **Reply #7 on:** November 29, 2011, 09:14:49 pm »

I use a Centech AP-2, it has both switched and unswitched source for power, handles 40 amps and is small......Kieth Here is a link to my smugmug gallery for bike wiring......most of these are bmw's but they have the same problem the concours does, not enough room under the seat.

Kieth

http://kieth.smugmug.com/Electronics/Bike-Wiring/6473331_SJw5p#410774692_fhDkc

without a relay $55.00 wired with a relay 85.00

BJ_CT · « **Reply #8 on:** December 01, 2011, 09:47:50 am »

The Fuzeblock is attached to the foam barrier with industrial strength Velcro. Fuzed wires from the battery routed up the frame and long enough so I can pull the Fuzeblock up above the fairing if I need to change a fuse without removing any tupperware. Switched power comes from Aux lead located in the left front area. Note the heat controller mounted in the same area and now my Krysta relay is in there too. This powers the heat controller, the Krysta lights, the Garmin and Escort. Someday, it will also power the horns I bought a year ago and have yet to install but that should be about it.

I also have another Fuzeblock mounted in the tool box tray. So far, it powers only the heated seat. No handy photo of this one but similar to MOBs. Had to cut the box lid to accomodate. Stuffed tools further back under the tail section.

ProfessorKonk · « **Reply #9 on:** December 03, 2011, 02:36:07 pm »

Here's what I just installed:
http://www.aerostich.com/prevent-or-repair/electrical/electrical-accessories/power-distribution-module-v2.html

It's pretty cool.

Trouble · « **Reply #10 on:** December 05, 2011, 11:13:47 pm »

Quote from: BJ_CT on December 01, 2011, 09:47:50 am

The Fuzeblock is attached to the foam barrier with industrial strength Velcro. Fuzed wires from the battery routed up the frame and long enough so I can pull the Fuzeblock up above the fairing if I need to change a fuse without removing any tupperware. Switched power comes from Aux lead located in the left front area. Note the heat controller mounted in the same area and now my Krysta relay is in there too. This powers the heat controller, the Krysta lights, the Garmin and Escort. Someday, it will also power the horns I bought a year ago and have yet to install but that should be about it.

I also have another Fuzeblock mounted in the tool box tray. So far, it powers only the heated seat. No handy photo of this one but similar to MOBs. Had to cut the box lid to accomodate. Stuffed tools further back under the tail section.

Where did you get that fuze block ?

Cap'n Bob · « **Reply #11 on:** December 05, 2011, 11:20:52 pm »

Quote from: Trouble on December 05, 2011, 11:13:47 pm

Quote from: BJ_CT on December 01, 2011, 09:47:50 am
The Fuzeblock is attached to the foam barrier with industrial strength Velcro. Fuzed wires from the battery routed up the frame and long enough so I can pull the Fuzeblock up above the fairing if I need to change a fuse without removing any tupperware. Switched power comes from Aux lead located in the left front area. Note the heat controller mounted in the same area and now my Krysta relay is in there too. This powers the heat controller, the Krysta lights, the Garmin and Escort. Someday, it will also power the horns I bought a year ago and have yet to install but that should be about it.

I also have another Fuzeblock mounted in the tool box tray. So far, it powers only the heated seat. No handy photo of this one but similar to MOBs. Had to cut the box lid to accomodate. Stuffed tools further back under the tail section.

Where did you get that fuze block ?

http://www.pca-one.com/productDetail.asp?productID=3208&RetURL=search&search=bike&bikeType=&bikeMake=Yamaha&bikeModel=FJR1300A&bikeYear=2010

Trouble · « **Reply #12 on:** December 05, 2011, 11:27:55 pm »

Thank You. Just bought it .

bluezman · « **Reply #13 on:** December 16, 2011, 07:16:19 pm »

I have the dispatch2 instead of a fuse block. works well.

ChipDoc · « **Reply #14 on:** December 16, 2011, 07:23:15 pm »

Wow, that's a pretty slick idea. One day I'll even have the money!

Oh, and welcome to the family, bluezman!

Gypsy JR · « **Reply #15 on:** December 16, 2011, 08:02:32 pm »

I use the fuse block that Twisted Throttle sells. It is positive (red) only.

So I have to provide negative (black) to all the devices powered off this fuse block. Which is easier than you think.

It also has a wire pair to which you can splice your Battery Tender pigtail to. The custom relay that comes with the block knows when you plug your charger in and keeps the charging system seperate from the other devices powered from the block. Some electronics can't take more than 12V DC very well, and a charger will often go over that.

Also, if you turn the key on, the fuse block relay isolates the charger circuit from the bike totally (turns the charger off, essentially) for the same reason. Turn the key back off, and the charger comes back on.

It doesn't have a nice cover like the Fuzeblock but I imagine if I do another one for my C14, I can machine up a nice box for it to live inside. Heh.

free2ride · « **Reply #16 on:** April 08, 2012, 08:53:03 pm »

Quote from: Kieth on November 29, 2011, 09:14:49 pm

I use a Centech AP-2, it has both switched and unswitched source for power, handles 40 amps and is small......Kieth Here is a link to my smugmug gallery for bike wiring......most of these are bmw's but they have the same problem the concours does, not enough room under the seat.

Kieth

http://kieth.smugmug.com/Electronics/Bike-Wiring/6473331_SJw5p#410774692_fhDkc

without a relay $55.00 wired with a relay 85.00

Keith, where did you mount yours on your Connie?

Jerdurr · « **Reply #17 on:** February 14, 2018, 06:15:28 pm »

Quote from: Gypsy JR on December 16, 2011, 08:02:32 pm

I use the fuse block that Twisted Throttle sells. It is positive (red) only.

So I have to provide negative (black) to all the devices powered off this fuse block. Which is easier than you think.

It also has a wire pair to which you can splice your Battery Tender pigtail to. The custom relay that comes with the block knows when you plug your charger in and keeps the charging system seperate from the other devices powered from the block. Some electronics can't take more than 12V DC very well, and a charger will often go over that.

Also, if you turn the key on, the fuse block relay isolates the charger circuit from the bike totally (turns the charger off, essentially) for the same reason. Turn the key back off, and the charger comes back on.

It doesn't have a nice cover like the Fuzeblock but I imagine if I do another one for my C14, I can machine up a nice box for it to live inside. Heh.

Interesting point Gipsy! However, a bunch of people here in the forum have attached the tender wires to the fuse blocks to charge the batteries (i believe it's a float charge, i'm not referring to jump starting it) without issues. Is it safe to do?

JTX · « **Reply #18 on:** February 15, 2018, 10:24:43 am »

wow disregard, old thread

Jerdurr · « **Reply #19 on:** February 15, 2018, 02:18:24 pm »

Quote from: JTX on February 15, 2018, 10:24:43 am

wow disregard, old thread

Information is not bad just because it is old... My question still stands

Deepsea · « **Reply #20 on:** February 15, 2018, 04:18:22 pm »

If you want to go high tech and don't care about cost check this out.
https://www.neutrinoblackbox.com/products

Jerdurr · « **Reply #21 on:** February 15, 2018, 06:10:52 pm »

Quote from: Deepsea on February 15, 2018, 04:18:22 pm

If you want to go high tech and don't care about cost check this out.
https://www.neutrinoblackbox.com/products

Thanks Deepsea... unfortunately I still care about the cost

AmphibSailor · « **Reply #22 on:** February 15, 2018, 07:42:23 pm »

Quote from: Deepsea on February 15, 2018, 04:18:22 pm

If you want to go high tech and don't care about cost check this out.
https://www.neutrinoblackbox.com/products

Has anybody on the forum tried one? Looks pretty interesting. Would go for one if it performed as well as it sounds. I'm talking about the one that can act as a heat troller, PDM and more.

Neutrino Aurora.

Cap'n Bob · « **Reply #23 on:** February 15, 2018, 08:18:54 pm »

Quote from: Jerdurr on February 14, 2018, 06:15:28 pm

Interesting point Gipsy! However, a bunch of people here in the forum have attached the tender wires to the fuse blocks to charge the batteries (i believe it's a float charge, i'm not referring to jump starting it) without issues. Is it safe to do?

As long as your wiring is proper gauge to handle the max current output for the tender. I see know reason why it would not be safe other than someone performing an improper install. Also I would recommend fusing the trickle chargers input to the fuse block as well for safety.
Personally, I just hooked mine straight to the battery and ran the wire out the hole in the bottom of the battery box. I connected to it down by my right foot peg. It was really nice when the cover was on having easy access and no wires rubbing anywhere, or being run throughout the bike. Although to do this, you have to lift the fuel tank out. But it really works great. Again as you said, this is just for a trickle charger for maintaining charge.

Deepsea · « **Reply #24 on:** February 16, 2018, 08:20:09 am »

I purchased the Neutrino Aurora just before shipping the bike to Germany. Still waiting for everything to clear customs then I'll install it. Could be a couple of months but I'll let you know how it goes.