Author Topic: Cruise control  (Read 9532 times)

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Offline tunes

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Re: Cruise control
« Reply #25 on: June 18, 2011, 12:55:46 am »
Is there any particular reason why the vacuum operated CC (ex Audiovox) that Murph sells can't be used on a C14?
I have one on my FJR & DL650 and both work fine.

I put the AudioVox on my 08 C14.  It took part of 3 days and was a little p.i.t.a. to install but it works great.  The directions on the site are very clear and if you enjoy projects, it can be pretty fun.
Tunes

Offline Murph

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Re: Cruise control
« Reply #26 on: June 19, 2011, 09:53:07 pm »


Both CCS and the the Rostras are covered here:

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/kb.php?osCsid=822d04a6c70a972688d2952a9d3f9452

I thought I had a Rostra install done by Fred on there too..

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Offline fartymarty

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Re: Cruise control
« Reply #27 on: August 12, 2011, 08:13:36 pm »
My Rostra install notes, and 2010 updates.

This is not a complete install, it is just changes in wiring that I chose to do, or ones
that Kawasaki changed for me in the 2010 model.  I also included my mechanical
changes as well. Please see Brian’s (BDF) instructions for a complete install.

Electrical

Brake circuit: Since the circuits are available at the front of the bike I decided not
to run wires back to the taillight. Two of the wires needed are in the front right bundle
under the top right fairing cover. The red Rostra wire with the 4 amp fuse attaches to
the bundle red wire w/blue stripe. Terminals 86 and 87 of the relay are connected to the bundle blue wire w/red stripe.
The other relay connections remain the same.
edit: My notes on the photo could be misleading, so to be clear, you want to simply attach Rostra wires to existing C14 wires ("tap into them"),
not cut nor redirect any existing C14 wires.



Clutch switch: The clutch switch (aka: starter lockout switch) wire color has changed* on my 2010 model.  It is the left front bundle red wire w/green stripe that should be connected to the Rostra light green “NSS” wire. (*edit: It turns out that the wire color didn't change, I just tapped in on the other side of the connector where the wire color is different. The other side of the connector still has the wire color as described in Brian's instructions. It seemed easier to get to that side of the connector for me.)




Speed sensor: The VSS or speed sensor connection is unchanged; it’s still the Rostra
gray wire to the VSS pink wire located at the lower left of the bike.  Like Brian said, it is easier to make the connection if you remove the one bolt and pull the sensor out. However, Kawasaki puts that bolt in with a red thread locker and the little pieces of dried
locker need to blown away before the sensor is pulled out so that they don’t fall down in the gearing. Best to put a rag over the hole to protect it while you are working in the area.


The other connections were the same as noted in Brian's instructions.

Mechanical

Some had noted that the cruise would have trouble or engage a little jerky if there was
too much slack in the connection to the throttle arm. I decided to try a throttle arm extension to help bring the range of motion of the Rostra unit and the throttle arm a little more in line with each other. I was going to use two 4-40 bolts and nuts but there was not enough clearance for the forward most nut. I drilled the hole in the throttle arm larger and tapped it with a 6-32 tap and didn’t use a nut behind the throttle arm.



I was trying to attach the cable bracket inside of the large wire bundle yet outside of the frame brace. During the fitting process I managed to tear up an offshoot 16 wire bundle
that was headed off into the center of the bike. I checked the one wire that was damaged and could find no breaks in it so I taped it up and with a big sigh of relief decided to mount the cable bracket outside of the large grey wire bundle.


 A lot of drilling, cutting, and filing later and I had a fairly ugly piece of metal that looked like it was going to work.



The top part fits over the frame brace and is secured by a small screw that goes into a hole that I drilled and tapped in the brace. I ran a flat piece of aluminum over from the lower bolt of the coolant tank to attach at the bottom. The bracket is just clear of the fairing pieces.


 

 I placed the cruise module on the right side and secured it with a zip tie.


Owing to the wonderful weather conditions, this install took several days because I just
didn’t want to work that hard.



However it all seems to have paid off as I’ve never had an automobile factory cruise control work any better than this one does. I am very pleased with how this Rostra is working for me.



Thanks to BDF, Fred H., and Rhino for your postings and help. I could not have done it without you, though I might have tried.
« Last Edit: August 20, 2012, 02:54:43 pm by fartymarty »

Offline TrampGeo

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C14 2011 cruise control
« Reply #28 on: January 14, 2012, 09:20:10 pm »
Kudos to fartymarty and B. Felice for their postings on installing the Rostra cruise control on the C14.  I used their instructions to transfer the Rostra CC I from my Suzuki VStrom to my new 2011 C14.  The unit works great, better than it did on my VStrom.
The electrical connections and wire colors are the same as fartymartys 2010 model.  I did change the Rostra control unit location and the link to the throttle.  Otherwise no other mods.  I have included some pictures with descriptions above each picture.  (Just like everyone else says:  These are modifications I made to my bike and I am not responsible if you try to do something similar and then something bad happens.  You need to understand what you are doing and what the risks are before you undertake something as serious as modifying the throttle linkage of your motorcycle.)

The picture below shows the location of the Rostra control unit and a long shot of the linkage between the Rostra cable and the throttle.  I removed the glove box and put the control unit in its place.





The Rostra control unit is cable tied to two pieces of angle steel put together in a U channel which is screwed down with the bolt from the bottom of the glove box.  I couldn’t get the control unit to fit on the right side as fartymarty did because my 2011 Connie has a larger rectangular gas evap filter and there is less space on the right.  I didn’t use the glove box much anyway.  You can see that the CC cable is pointed forward and then curves down and back below the throttle linkage.


 
The first photo above shows that coolant tank is hanging down as the two bolts securing it have been removed.  The close up below shows a bracket I made from aluminum bar stock I got at Home Depot.  The bracket is secured with the bolts that hold the coolant tank in place and is normally hidden from view between the coolant tank and the engine when the coolant tank is in place.  The bracket has an angle in it that brings it roughly horizontal and it is bent inward towards the bike near the right end.  At the lower right end of the bracket, the Rostra control cable is secured with one of the threaded clamps from the Rostra parts kit.  The threaded clamp is attached to the bracket with an 8-32 screw and nut.  Please note that the location of the control cable and clamp was found by repeated fittings so the cable is routed between the coolant tank and the cables behind.  All of the hoses including the coolant tank overflow hose are routed behind the Rostra cable.   The throttle wire goes straight up to the throttle linkage.   I’m going to say this twice:  THE ROSTRA CONTROL WIRE MUST BE FREE TO MOVE WITHOUT RUBBING, CATCHING OR BINDING ON ANY MOTORCYCLE PARTS.



The picture below shows the attachment to the throttle mechanism.  I made an extension to the idle adjustment lever which is basically the same as what fartymarty did.  I was able to secure the extension with two 4-40 bolts and nuts (w/ blue threadlock) as my linkage has enough clearance for both nuts behind the lever.  The lever extension reduces the sensitivity of the cruise control and my bike cruises at a steady speed without any speeding up and slowing down (surging).  The attachment part that fartymarty uses to secure the ball chain to the throttle is better than what I used, but I was attaching a wire and ball chain setup from my old bike.  Be sure to use the ball chain.  It takes up slack by providing flex when the throttle is manually opened.  So now I’m going to tell you again: THE ROSTRA CONTROL CABLE MUST BE FREE TO MOVE WITHOUT RUBBING, CATCHING OR BINDING ON ANY MOTORCYCLE PARTS.
After everything is hooked up before you put the coolant tank back on:
- Sit on a comfortable stool next to the throttle linkage with plenty of light.
- Twist the throttle fully open and closed quickly about 30 times and watch how the Rostra cable slackens and straightens out to make sure again that there is no way the throttle wire can hang on anything(third warning).



The final photo shows the cover I made from sheet metal using a hack saw and file.  Sprayed it with black Krylon ‘Dual Paint and Primer’ which fills scratches and leaves a nice semi-gloss finish.  I saved the glove box intact in case I want to put it back.

One thing I forgot to take a picture of was the Fuzeblock  FZ-1 fuse block that I located on top of the Rostra control unit just under the aforementioned metal plate.  It provides a separate fused circuit to each of my accessories.  I have a switch on the panel going to the relay in the fused block which turns the accessory power.  It also has an indicator LED.  I can power accessories like the GPS without turning on the bike ignition.  The LED reminds me to turn it off so I won’t drain the battery.  If anyone wants the switch circuit, which requires a couple of diodes, I can pass that on.



Up and down hills, almost any speed, rpm or gear and the speed seems to stay constant.  -Larry Johnson (trampgeo)
« Last Edit: May 12, 2013, 11:23:11 pm by TrampGeo »

Offline fartymarty

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Re: Cruise control
« Reply #29 on: January 15, 2012, 12:08:17 am »
Nice work Larry. I like your aluminum arm coming over from the coolant tank bolts.
I had the evap canister too, but since it was in the way of both the Rostra and the Stebel it was
a goner.
Could you explain the attachment point a little, is that just crimped wire holding it on or is there a
hole in the arm that I can't see?

Offline TrampGeo

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Re: Cruise control
« Reply #30 on: January 15, 2012, 05:57:57 pm »
It's #18 galvanized wire that goes through a small hole in the arm.  The first time I did it, there was a small wire end that was sticking up and it cought the throttle wire while I was testing the throttle movement.  I rewired the attachment with the wire ends tucked in and pointing down so I think it's OK now.  Using the Rostra ball chain end attachment is probably best though.

Offline fartymarty

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Re: Cruise control
« Reply #31 on: January 15, 2012, 07:55:00 pm »
....wire that goes through a small hole in the arm. 

OK cool, that's what I was hoping, I just wasn't sure from the picture. I assume that there were multiple dip switch setting changes between your VStrom and your connie?

 I think there are at least three of us that have extended that arm, and I believe that is the best way to go for now.
If Murph or somebody doesn't do it first, my "someday list" has an item where I fabricate a curved quarter pulley thingy
to attach to that throttle arm and have the CC cable come in from the front of the bike horizontally then go around and up over the pulley.
Very similar to the way the throttle cable does only on a larger diameter. I'm pretty sure that's the way a factory CC would work
if mama kaw had seen fit to do so. Like I said, "someday"...unless Murph or somebody...hint hint...