Author Topic: Fast Canyon Cage Installation Question  (Read 13259 times)

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Offline SWOJO95

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Re: Fast Canyon Cage Installation Question
« Reply #75 on: October 08, 2014, 06:00:41 pm »
I purchased mine directly from MCE. Where else can you get the cage and rear bars ?


I bought mine thru Phat Performance:

http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/MC_Enterprises_Canyon_Cages_p/mc-canyoncages.htm

Offline SgtFury

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Re: Fast Canyon Cage Installation Question
« Reply #76 on: October 08, 2014, 08:35:34 pm »
I purchased mine directly from MCE. Where else can you get the cage and rear bars ?


I bought mine thru Phat Performance:

http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/MC_Enterprises_Canyon_Cages_p/mc-canyoncages.htm


 I have seen them on Dennis Kirk, but they were usually out of stock, I seen some on Amazon oddly enough, but they may have been sold by Phat Performance, I cant remember.  I bought both front and back from MC Enterprises.  Excellent customer service, emailed them yesterday with some questions, had a reply back today from Ryan.  They had both sets in stock when I ordered them and I had them shipped to a location that made me ride 500 miles to install them, Awesome ROAD TRIP!

Offline Sailor_chic

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Re: Fast Canyon Cage Installation Question
« Reply #77 on: October 08, 2014, 10:12:03 pm »
Was wondering if anyone could help me out with the torque settings, I know the fronts are 44 ft-lb, but the rear, is it 18 ft-lb OR 44 ft-lb.  I'm not mechanically gifted sorry!  I got the bars on my bike, 2012 no problems, was confused about the torque settings, I called the shop and they gave me 44 for the front and 18 for the back, but looking at a diagram it looks like they are all supposed to be 44, again I'm not much of a tech guy!  The only problem I encountered was putting the fairing back on!  Seen where guys had no problems, I wanted to pull my hair out, took me like an hour to manipulate it back in, but I have never taken it off before, and again, note mechanical ability, very little.  Any advise would be appreciated.


Why did you remove the fairing to install the bars?  This seams like an unnecessary step.
Nicole     Port St Lucie, FL.
2013 C14 Black  
2006 Vmax
IBA # 60267

Offline SgtFury

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Re: Fast Canyon Cage Installation Question
« Reply #78 on: October 08, 2014, 10:59:22 pm »
Was wondering if anyone could help me out with the torque settings, I know the fronts are 44 ft-lb, but the rear, is it 18 ft-lb OR 44 ft-lb.  I'm not mechanically gifted sorry!  I got the bars on my bike, 2012 no problems, was confused about the torque settings, I called the shop and they gave me 44 for the front and 18 for the back, but looking at a diagram it looks like they are all supposed to be 44, again I'm not much of a tech guy!  The only problem I encountered was putting the fairing back on!  Seen where guys had no problems, I wanted to pull my hair out, took me like an hour to manipulate it back in, but I have never taken it off before, and again, note mechanical ability, very little.  Any advise would be appreciated.


Why did you remove the fairing to install the bars?  This seams like an unnecessary step.

 I'm sure they could be put on without taking the fairing off, but when you need to get into the areas of the engine that need the fairing removed for maintenance, say coolant, you would then have to take the cages back off.  I actually did the little cut to the fairing like the guys on here have talked about.  This way when I need something worked on behind the fairings, I can just remove them, and leave the cages on.  but you can bet that when I was wrestling around with them, I was thinking I should have never taken these things off!  Next time they come off, Ill probably get all crazy and just say "THATS IT, THERE STAYING OFF NOW!"

Offline SWOJO95

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Re: Fast Canyon Cage Installation Question
« Reply #79 on: October 09, 2014, 01:47:30 am »
I also made the small cuts so I could take off the cowling without removing the cages. I find it is easiest to do if you undue the fasteners on the lower cowlings and gently pull out the rubber seals part way (the rubber parts that are attached to the lower cowlings and tucked into the cavities) and slightly rotate them downwards.  In my opinion, this makes it much easier to finagle the center cowlings in and out. I've had to do it several times now and it is quite simple to do now, but I do remember the first time I did it and there was plenty of fowl language involved.

Offline VP01

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Re: Fast Canyon Cage Installation Question
« Reply #80 on: October 10, 2014, 06:56:46 pm »
Since there are many MCE Canyon Cage related threads, I’m hoping I’ve placed this properly, and if not, it will be moved to where it does belong.

I recently completed the install of the front MCE Canyon Cages on my Gen. 2 C14 (2013). Many thanks to all who posted here (and on the other forum) for providing a wealth of useful information that helped me throughout the installation process. Previously, I had installed the back Canyon Cages (quick and simple though limiting in passenger peg fold), but since the bulk of Canyon Cage posts relate to the fronts, I’ll limit my comments to those. 

First off, I’m well pleased with the product, and feel well prepared for any eventual CDA occurrence—as they say, it’s not if, but when. Secondly, the install was pretty much straight forward, and greatly aided by being sure all necessary information and materials were at hand, and well reviewed, before getting elbows deep into the project. Several observations:
1.   Be sure which generation C14 you are researching on the forums. The cages (and directions) differ for each generation, with the Gen. 2 cages having 2 mounting points per side (upper forward and upper rear) as opposed to 3 per side for Gen. 1.
2.   Good quality tools. One poster had stressed this and I concur. The quality of my HF tap and die set is lower than whale doody and I didn't even attempt to use it on this project (to chase factory red loctite) for fear of doing real damage--I don’t need to round off anything or create any additional secondary repair projects.
3.   Do everything hand-tight first before applying additional leverage, especially where factory loctite is concerned. I used an extension with the appropriate socket/hex drive as a screw driver and this worked well.
4.    Read and re-read directions and forum posts to be sure you know what’s what, and take your time and double check everything.
5.   Double check all materials to be sure everything that should be there is there and up to spec (some have reported missing or incorrect bolts/materials).
6.     Blue painter's tape to avoid scratches (maybe).

In addition to adhering to directions, I did the following based on the sage advice offered by Canyon Cage posters:
1.   Once initially removed, I repeatedly, by hand,  installed, removed, and then chased the OEM front mounting bolts with a workable die (3 time each) to remove all the extra factory loctite. I did this until I could reinstall the bolts easily by hand with little resistance. BTW, I saw some tap/die confusion in my readings—a tap puts threads in a bore, while a die puts threads on a rod (easy boys!—TMBDF).
2.    Removed side fairings for install. The fairing, to cut or not to cut was the question. I opted to cut (for subsequent ease of access without having to remove cages, though their removal and reinstall may not be such a big deal anyway). However, rather than remove a section of the fairing, I made a single cut (per a poster’s suggestion) and then made additional shallow cuts along the remaining material to increase its flexibility (see photos 1 and 2). Reinstall was not that bad (as opposed to dental extraction by Captain Hook). It can be done, but takes time, a lot of fiddling, and copious foul language.  Honestly, as I was wrestling with the side fairings during reinstall I wondered, at shop labor rates, which would cost more: a reinstall of the cages or paying someone to patiently mambo these things back into place? But back into place they eventually do go.
3.    Another bright idea with the fairing cut was to make the single cut so that it would fall within its mating retaining bracket on the forward fairing. Don’t think it makes a huge difference in terms of stability, but it works and I did it nonetheless. (see photo3)
4.   In addition to fitting the supplied MCE forward mounting bolts by hand, I also repeatedly tried to pre-fit the MCE supplied rear mounting bolt. Apparently, it needs to be rotated just so, so that it will align with a hex fit collar within the motor mount. I fitted and rotated the bolt repeatedly until I got it to go in as deeply as possible (easy boys!-TMBDF). I then marked the bolt for ease of reference upon reinstall.
5.   Twisting the OEM rear engine mounting bolt. Don’t do it. One poster clearly explained how the hex portion of the OEM rear mounting bolt fits into an adjusting collar that is used to maintain proper tension between engine and frame. So, after tapping out the bolt (per MCE instructions) and then twisting the OEM bolt out gently to make sure it stayed as pristine as possible (not per anyone’s instructions), I went back in to be sure I did not alter the proper engine frame tension specifications. After a quick re-torque to 18 ft-lb and a sigh of relief, I was able to get on with the install. However, as the directions call for a tapping out of the bolt, with my initial tappings, I had probably moved the hex section of the bolt out of its corresponding socket so it probably turned independently of the collar. Still, better safe than sorry, and I learned something new as well. 

Pet Peeves:
1.   Torque values were missing from my instructions (MCE instructions dated 2/24/14). I gained torque values from the forums, but again, you need to be careful about which generation C14 you’re researching as torque values ranged from 44 ft-lb to 38 ft-lb to 17 ft-lb. What seemed to finally become the consensus was for the Gen 2, was 18-20 ft-lb for the front upper mounting bolt, and 44 ft-lb for the rear mounting bolt. The 18 ft-lb earlier referenced is for the internal collar only, not the bolt, and refers only to frame to engine tensioning. I torqued my front mounting bolts to 20 ft-lb and my rear mounting bolt to 44 ft-lb. Double checked these values after some drive time and no change noted.
2.   Rear mount Step Nut. As noted by several others, I could not get the step nut to mount without approximately 3/16 of an inch recess between the end of the nut and the end of the mounting bolt. No matter how many times I dismantled, rotated, and reassembled things, the best I could manage was the 3/16 recess between the ends of the bolt and nut (I still have the blue loctite under my nails from repeatedly futzing with this thing). I figured as it’s a hex, even if it only has one sweet spot, if I rotate it 6 times, I’m bound to hit it eventually. No dice. Rotations and reassemblies into the double digits (all in the same directions, not back and forth between 2 positions) failed to gain any improvement. Nonetheless, since the step nut is approximately 3/4 of an inch long, that means I’ve achieved approximately 1/2 inch of purchase on the bolt threads, which I’m hoping is sufficiently safe.

In sum, I really like the MCE Canyon Cages and would purchase them again if ever I needed to do so. They exude security, strike me as being quite substantial and well made, and certainly appear to be up to the task of protecting the bike in the event of a tip over. Anecdotal evidence to their strength and utility has repeatedly been presented in the forums, and to my eye, they actual look good on my Gen. 2 machine. Installation, apart from some idiosyncrasies, is pretty much straight forward and, with a patient and considered hand, can be accomplished without misstep. However, things do happen, and I’d certainly be sure to double check the forums for information about incidents and issues, heads-ups, and any other potential concerns to be sure everything goes as smoothly as possible with any future install.     

I'm new at inserting photos, so here's hoping...







   

Offline VP01

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Re: Fast Canyon Cage Installation Question
« Reply #81 on: October 10, 2014, 07:14:41 pm »
Hopefully, I'm learning. Here is my second attempt at posting the pictures I had tried to include with my previous post:







Nothing like discontinuity to add to the overall clarity of text.  :-[