Author Topic: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions  (Read 10733 times)

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Offline 4Bikes

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #25 on: March 13, 2013, 07:35:50 pm »
I also found this USB weatherproof port that is ready to go as one unit for a Motorcycle.  The only downside I see is that it’s only rated for 1 amp.  It would likely charge most devices with 1 amp however.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/r4/waterproof-motorcycle-usb-port/
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Offline Aussie

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #26 on: June 03, 2014, 12:35:47 pm »
I know this is an old post but ...

How did you tap off the battery? A link would be nice if you used a neat approach (i.e., more sophisticated than a circle connector).

What gauge wire did you run from the battery, to support how many amps? The fuse box can supply 30A ... But it doesn't have to be wired for the full 30A.
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Offline stevewfl

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #27 on: June 03, 2014, 04:20:07 pm »
I know this is an old post but ...

How did you tap off the battery? A link would be nice if you used a neat approach (i.e., more sophisticated than a circle connector).

What gauge wire did you run from the battery, to support how many amps? The fuse box can supply 30A ... But it doesn't have to be wired for the full 30A.

I went through the FUZEBLOCK (last two pics).  I hardwired to battery through a fuse, and also hardwired to an ignition sense. Whats so nice with it is depending upon the position of each fuse in it determines whether its constant voltage or only voltage when the bike is on  :beerchug:
« Last Edit: June 03, 2014, 04:47:04 pm by stevewfl »
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Offline Aussie

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #28 on: June 03, 2014, 10:08:52 pm »
Hey Steve ... Yeah ... Got that.

What I am really interested in is how you tapped off the battery?

And the gauge wire you used to the fuze block ... At 30A we potentially need 12GA?
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Offline stevewfl

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #29 on: June 03, 2014, 11:04:06 pm »
Hey Steve ... Yeah ... Got that.

What I am really interested in is how you tapped off the battery?

And the gauge wire you used to the fuze block ... At 30A we potentially need 12GA?

Yes sir, I went straight to the battery terminal  with 12 gauge wire.
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Offline Aussie

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #30 on: June 04, 2014, 11:41:15 am »
Great ... Thanks for the update ... It looks like I am on the right track then ...

I am hoping to install the same fuze box, extra lights, GPS power, USB power, a Rostra and a Strebel ...

So I want to make sure that I have the design correct before I start.

I'll probably post the design for comment ... Prior to implementation.
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Offline stevewfl

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #31 on: June 04, 2014, 11:50:02 am »
Right on.... I also run my heated gear through the Fuzeblock too.  Many suggest going straight to the battery, which may be better, but for 85,000 miles I haven't had an issue and I run mine in "smoking hot mode" when I'm out of FL in winters  riding cold!
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Offline Fuzz

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #32 on: June 05, 2014, 02:57:00 am »
Great ... Thanks for the update ... It looks like I am on the right track then ...

I am hoping to install the same fuze box, extra lights, GPS power, USB power, a Rostra and a Strebel ...

So I want to make sure that I have the design correct before I start.

I'll probably post the design for comment ... Prior to implementation.


It's my understanding that the Stebel Horns require quite a bit of power so should go directly to the battery and not go through the Fuzeblock.  Supposedly, it could blow your fuse if you are drawing on too many different farkles at once and then have a huge draw for the horn.

This is how I set mine up, but please correct me if I am wrong. 

I have the GPS, Powerlet Outlet (with Dual USB Adapter), Gerbing Dual Heated Gear Ports and Controller, Rostra CC, and Givi E55 topcase with Brake lights and Remote Entry in the Fuze Block. One space left in the Fuzeblock, but already drawing more than 30 amps if everything is going at once.

The Fuzeblock and Stebel Horns are attached to the battery.

Does this sound right? 
« Last Edit: June 05, 2014, 03:16:56 am by Fuzz »

Offline Aussie

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #33 on: June 05, 2014, 11:19:24 am »
From my research the Stebel draws a max 18A ... The FuzeBlock is rated to 30A. So it can handle it well.

Wiring direct to the battery is not wrong ... It frees up the FuzeBlock to supply current elsewhere.

Of course, if you already have more than 12A draw on the FuzeBlock and then blow the Strebel, a 30A fuse could blow.

What I m researching now, is how many amps the alternator can supply. I hear that it has 41.5A available. I will check the manual.

The next question is what the power draw is ... Maximum, to see what is left for farkles. Current draw is additive ( each draw adds to the rest) although their may be some items that are never used together ... But if there is a chance that all devices can be on, then all this. Urrents need to be added to get the current draw.

I expect that I will get a current meter on the bike to see what the draw is.
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Offline BDF

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #34 on: June 05, 2014, 01:29:30 pm »
The alternator will produce something near 46 or 47 amps.

Power available to the user is right around 300 / 325 watts. 350 watts causes the system voltage to dip down to or slightly below the battery's resting voltage, meaning the alternator cannot supply enough current to maintain that amount of system draw.

If you tap a sizable amount of power directly from the battery, bear in mind that you could overload and open the 'main' fuse. It is rated at 30 amps and if you draw most of the alternators' output from the battery side, the main fuse will open leaving the bike dead as the proverbial doornail. Had it happen to me one cold night (my fault, not the bike) and it has been an issue with police use of C-14's as they are very heavily laden with electrical accessories.

Brian

From my research the Stebel draws a max 18A ... The FuzeBlock is rated to 30A. So it can handle it well.

Wiring direct to the battery is not wrong ... It frees up the FuzeBlock to supply current elsewhere.

Of course, if you already have more than 12A draw on the FuzeBlock and then blow the Strebel, a 30A fuse could blow.

What I m researching now, is how many amps the alternator can supply. I hear that it has 41.5A available. I will check the manual.

The next question is what the power draw is ... Maximum, to see what is left for farkles. Current draw is additive ( each draw adds to the rest) although their may be some items that are never used together ... But if there is a chance that all devices can be on, then all this. Urrents need to be added to get the current draw.

I expect that I will get a current meter on the bike to see what the draw is.
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Offline Bruiser

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #35 on: June 05, 2014, 09:01:17 pm »
I also could not figger out why Kaw put the damn thing on the wrong side.  But I went cheap, and just use one of those plug-in USB ports you plug into a cig lighter outlet.
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Offline Aussie

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #36 on: June 05, 2014, 09:59:45 pm »
OK ...  You guys are edumacting me here ...

So you are saying that I need to tap off the alternator ... Not the battery ... Right?

If you draw over 30A from the alternator side momentarily (e.g., during shutdown when the alternator is not going) won't you blow the main fuse anyway?

Or are we saying we shouldn't be pulling 30A without the bike running?
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Offline markthink

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #37 on: June 05, 2014, 11:14:15 pm »
Got me a dongle that makes the battery tender connection a USB. Got a plug that makes the 12v accessory socket a USB. Carry both, in case I need the phone to talk to the helmet. Had a plug that made that "lighter plug" socket to two USB, but it crapped out. Also I need that socket for my GPS, whence the battery tender plug-in comes in handy.

Offline BDF

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #38 on: June 06, 2014, 12:15:45 am »
To directly answer your question about tapping into the alternator side and drawing more than 30 amps without the bike running (all from the battery, no alternator input) then yes, you will open the main fuse probably- depending on how much over 30 amps you go.

Most users will never draw enough current from the bike to notice this problem. The only reason I ran into it was because I was running two full sets of Gerbing heated clothing, which draws about 350 watts max., and a pair of HID's, which draw 42 watts each. Because I was tapped on the battery side, the current actually charging the battery has to be added to the loads I had and as you can see, it was WELL over 30 amps. What I did was to move one set of heated clothing to the alternator side and leave the other set as well as the HID's on the battery so I cannot have a condition where I can draw more than 30 amps through the main fuse.

So to sum up: do not draw more than, say, 25 amps max. from the battery directly. If using more load, I would suggest splitting it and putting some on each side of the main fuse (battery and the alternator are the two 'sides'). And as far as drawing 30 amps or more without the bike running, well that is really a pretty excessive amount of current from such a small battery under any circumstances IMO and the battery will not put out that much current for very long at all.

Brian

OK ...  You guys are edumacting me here ...

So you are saying that I need to tap off the alternator ... Not the battery ... Right?

If you draw over 30A from the alternator side momentarily (e.g., during shutdown when the alternator is not going) won't you blow the main fuse anyway?

Or are we saying we shouldn't be pulling 30A without the bike running?
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Offline Aussie

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #39 on: June 06, 2014, 11:28:39 am »
BDF ... Nice answer  :beerchug:

I will continue to design using your suggestions and post updates as I go.
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Offline stevewfl

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #40 on: June 27, 2014, 05:04:23 pm »
Got me a dongle that makes the battery tender connection a USB. Got a plug that makes the 12v accessory socket a USB. Carry both, in case I need the phone to talk to the helmet. Had a plug that made that "lighter plug" socket to two USB, but it crapped out. Also I need that socket for my GPS, whence the battery tender plug-in comes in handy.


Connectors and adapters I've always used for this and that is what I was trying to get around.  Even my OEM 12v accessory socket has been used so much now its a "loose fit".  I needed one "dedicated"  USB solution.  Of course i still use my adapters and such and deal with them getting loose, extra cable, and all the other things that go with adapters
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Offline KaTieM505

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Re: got tired of the same ole' USB solutions
« Reply #41 on: July 04, 2014, 04:41:46 pm »
Here is another USB option that I found works quite well:
USB Charger Quick Disconnect Motorcycle Plug Battery Tender 081-0158

I bought it from Apexracingoutlet.com on eBay for $11.85 including free shipping. It plugs into your battery tender, charges at 2.1 amps and is weatherproof.