Author Topic: Rostra Cruise Control Wiring Diagram  (Read 24771 times)

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Offline RoadRocket

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Re: Rostra Cruise Control Wiring Diagram
« Reply #25 on: November 14, 2012, 05:18:12 pm »
I have a lot of photos online showing both the Audiovox and Rostra install.

http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/audiovoxcruise

If you'll buy me an airplane ticket to Hawaii, I'll be happy to come out there and install it for you.
Fred, Which is the better of the two (Rostra or Audio). Christmas is around the corner and wifey is asking what I want.  >:D
Now I wonder if I should just wait until Kawaski comes out with one seeing that Yamaha did for the FJR. I dont see how it could be much different that the Rostra? Fred, your thoughts on Rostra verses a Factory one?

I've used and installed both, and I much prefer the Rostra. It's less complicated to install (no vacuum lines) and holds speed in a more consistent manner, since it doesn't rely on fluctuating engine vacuum pressure.
2011 Kawasaki Concours
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2003 Honda Goldwing
2006 Yamaha Stratoliner
2005 Honda ST
2002 Yamaha Roadstar
2001 Suzuki Hayabusa
2000 Yamaha Royal Star
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Offline Fred_Harmon_TX

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Re: Rostra Cruise Control Wiring Diagram
« Reply #26 on: November 14, 2012, 06:38:26 pm »
Now I wonder if I should just wait until Kawaski comes out with one seeing that Yamaha did for the FJR. I dont see how it could be much different that the Rostra? Fred, your thoughts on Rostra verses a Factory one?

I'd have to see how they did it, but typically, a factory cruise control will integrate better with the throttle body, and may have an automatic disengage assembly built into the throttle linkage, so if you roll the throttle forward it disengages the cruise control automatically. The switchgear integration on the handle bars is typically better as well. But who's to say when (or if) Kawasaki will make a factory one for this bike.

The Australian MC unit ($$) is also one you might want to consider, though I think it also uses vacuum. Personally, I think the electric servo in the Rostra is more consistent and reliable than a vacuum powered unit. Especially on hills or at higher altitudes where the bike has to work harder to hold speed.
« Last Edit: November 14, 2012, 06:40:02 pm by Fred_Harmon_TX »
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Offline nando

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Re: Rostra Cruise Control Wiring Diagram
« Reply #27 on: November 14, 2012, 06:59:59 pm »
I have a lot of photos online showing both the Audiovox and Rostra install.

http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/audiovoxcruise

If you'll buy me an airplane ticket to Hawaii, I'll be happy to come out there and install it for you.


I tell you what Fred, I may have to start saving for a "Fred Harmon yearly vacation" in Hawaii.

Referring to the valve adjustment gig: Mercy! that job is a labor of love!!!

After watching your vid on valve adjustment, I don't see how I would trust a mech to take such care and detailed procedures doing my valves. I am determined to do it myself after watching the video....oh, lets say about 100 hundred times. I wish I could see how you put those parts back into the bike. The day I do it, I am planning on taking pics of everything I take off and sort of make a little album of the order in which they should go back on...I will pray for guidance from the Holy Spirit also.
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Offline RoadRocket

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Re: Rostra Cruise Control Wiring Diagram
« Reply #28 on: November 15, 2012, 12:10:24 am »
Now I wonder if I should just wait until Kawaski comes out with one seeing that Yamaha did for the FJR. I dont see how it could be much different that the Rostra? Fred, your thoughts on Rostra verses a Factory one?

I'd have to see how they did it, but typically, a factory cruise control will integrate better with the throttle body, and may have an automatic disengage assembly built into the throttle linkage, so if you roll the throttle forward it disengages the cruise control automatically. The switchgear integration on the handle bars is typically better as well. But who's to say when (or if) Kawasaki will make a factory one for this bike.

The Australian MC unit ($$) is also one you might want to consider, though I think it also uses vacuum. Personally, I think the electric servo in the Rostra is more consistent and reliable than a vacuum powered unit. Especially on hills or at higher altitudes where the bike has to work harder to hold speed.
Fred, thanks for your opinion, as always it's highly valued and much appreciated. Now I need to to find someone to install it.  :-[
2011 Kawasaki Concours
2009 Suzuki Hayabusa
2003 Honda Goldwing
2006 Yamaha Stratoliner
2005 Honda ST
2002 Yamaha Roadstar
2001 Suzuki Hayabusa
2000 Yamaha Royal Star
2003 Suzuki Volusia 800
1999 Suzuki Intruder
1995 Honda Magna
1985 Honda Nighthawk
1974 Harley Sportster

Email: Roadstar515@bellsouth.net

Offline nando

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Re: Rostra Cruise Control Wiring Diagram
« Reply #29 on: November 15, 2012, 12:58:54 am »

The Australian MC unit ($$) is also one you might want to consider, though I think it also uses vacuum.


Fred, The Australian MC unit claims to be as much as a plug-n-play as an OEM part. Have you had any experiences with the MC. I know it costs more but I am not a fan of drilling hole in my bike which one has to do with a Rostra
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Offline Rasmith

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Re: Rostra Cruise Control Wiring Diagram
« Reply #30 on: November 15, 2012, 10:01:55 pm »
Anyone have a handle on how the resume function works?
Mine is installed with the Audiovox control. Cancel works on all accounts but the resume does not work ONLY when canceled with front brake..Odd
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Offline Gypsy JR

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Re: Rostra Cruise Control Wiring Diagram
« Reply #31 on: January 22, 2013, 02:29:16 pm »
The hole gets drilled on the arm at the throttle bodies,   Find a GOOD tech who can do this for you and make sure he/she is one you can trust.  This job isn't that difficult to do right,  but it's also easy to do wrong....  (Or see if you can find a nearby cogger who has done it before that you can bribe with steak and beer :) )

If you use a sharp, fairly long, titanium bit (or better) it is not terribly difficult, if you are reasonably skilled at using a drill. If not, follow Marc's good advice.  :great:

What I did was take the back bolt out of the brace that blocks access to this "arm", and loosen the front bolt, and you can push it down enough to drill. Then put two layers of electrical tape or duct tape on the top of the arm to keep from buggering it up too much. I actually rested the bit on that tape. I drilled a little tiny 1/16" hole first because I didn't want to try to centerpunch it, which could bend it. Then I drilled the size of my bolt (I used my own). The whole time, I had the arm clamped with a small angle nose vice grip on the end (top and bottom, so to speak, so could drill "side" of arm) and had the vice grip clamped to something else, don't remember what now.

It was a pita to get the bolt in, I wanted it to go in from the "inside" so the nut was on the outside, so I could red loctite it properly after cleaning it properly. Took some patience to hold the bolt with angle nose pliers and turn it with angle nose vice grips (not clamped, just adjusted that squeezing grabs the bolt head) until the bolt "threaded" in. I made the hole tight enough that it wouldn't just slip through, so that it would all be more reliable once locktited.

Also, when I tested by turning the throttle, I could hear and feel a minor catch, and I determined it was because the bolt sticking out of the second nut (I used two, with a tiny star washer between) just a bit too much. So I clamped the arm again, and used a dremel with a grinding disk and just ground it down a little so less stuck out, and that solved it.

I've had the plastic off since, and checked the arm as it is the critical part most likely to be a problem, and the bolt and nuts are as tight as the day I did it.

Like Fred suggested, I used a short (3 bead) bead chain from the bolt to the pull cable, and it seems to handle the folding that goes on the way I have the cable adusted (very little slack, just enough you can deflect it a little) when throttle is opened.

I expected the installation to be a real bear but once I read through BF's doc and mapped the connections to an outline, I could just go wire by wire and hook things up very quickly.

I bet I could do an installation now in an hour.  :rotflmao:
« Last Edit: January 23, 2013, 12:26:47 pm by JR »
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