Author Topic: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards  (Read 3982 times)

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Offline hunterbug

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Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« on: January 02, 2014, 09:07:30 pm »

      Hello All,
   Been looking for tipover protection , finishing up my second
Driveway drop repair , any sujestions are appreciated.

         Thanks in Advance ,
     
                     HunterBug

Offline mattchewn

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #1 on: January 02, 2014, 09:17:03 pm »
hunterbug,
Canyon Cages or the Top Block are both great options for the Connies. Cages are a bit less cash though.
Matt
 
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Offline captainmarko

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2014, 10:05:52 pm »
Canyon Cages here. Love 'em.
Sleep in the trees and keep your knees in the breeze.



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Offline Speedy

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2014, 12:59:50 am »
Lots of threads on this....

I voted with my wallet for canyon cages.  Top blocks are best looking but I bought the cc because I have the highest confidence that they will do what I bought them to do, protect Connie from me.
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Offline stevewfl

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2014, 01:03:32 am »
I run mine nekkid 
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Offline Canada-Dan

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #5 on: January 03, 2014, 04:46:23 am »
Anyone know of a YouTube video or thread with pics to help me with the canyon cage install ??

Offline nando

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2014, 06:24:05 am »
 :popcorncouple:
I am voting for anyone who wasn't there during the government shut-down.

Offline Speedy

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #7 on: January 03, 2014, 10:31:38 am »
CD

Really, you don't need to see a video on the install without removing the plastic.  If you decide to remove the plastic there is a youtube video on 2011 air filter install that is a little helpful.

This is an easy project as long as you have the right tools.  You need a metric socket set and Allen key socket set, 12 inch extension, something to act like a breaker bar to get good leverage on the front motor mount bolts, painters tape to protect fin paint, torque wrench, and some lock tight for reinstall.  Then just follow the instructions.

The only pitfall I could see is stripping the motor mount screws which is why you need a torque wrench.  Set it to 20 or 40 ft/lbs for the small or large bolts and you should be good.

Good luck.

Edit: If you don't remove the fairing, you will also need some sort of box-end ratchet/wrench to install and tighten the bolt that is in the center of the attached photo through the fins.  Also, if you remove the fairing you will need some needle nose pliers to disconnect the glove box power and to push the plastic rivets in so they can be removed.
« Last Edit: January 03, 2014, 06:29:50 pm by Speedy »
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Offline nando

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #8 on: January 03, 2014, 06:23:53 pm »
I was wondering if putting some rubber bushings or rubber washers around the connections of the Canyon Cager to the engine bolt would diffuse the vibration going to the handlebars.

To be be honest, the only reason why I am reconsidering Canyon is in the hope that attaching those bars to the engine bolts will have a diminishing effect on the oscillation that travels all the way to the handlebars
I am voting for anyone who wasn't there during the government shut-down.

Offline Gypsy JR

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #9 on: January 03, 2014, 08:01:57 pm »
The engine has to be solid mounted so no rubber bushing, nando. Besides you could not hit required torque values accurately with bushings.
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Offline Cigar Jay

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #10 on: January 04, 2014, 02:00:09 am »
Hunterbug-
if you remove engine bolts be sure to clean all REPETE ALL red permanent thread locker from bolts and chase the threads clean
if not you might strip the threads from the motor (i did )
on the flip side the heli coils work great.
good luck
jay

Offline Dragonbreath

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #11 on: January 04, 2014, 03:45:02 am »
Hunterbug-
if you remove engine bolts be sure to clean all REPETE ALL red permanent thread locker from bolts and chase the threads clean
if not you might strip the threads from the motor (i did )
on the flip side the heli coils work great.
good luck
jay

This sounds like very good advice.  It seems pretty straightforward to clean the threads of any bolts removed, but how do you suggest cleaning the threads of the "female" side on the engine?  Keep in mind this question is coming from someone who hasn't attempted this yet.  I've installed bars on other bikes, but I just got my C14 a couple of weeks ago and haven't even ordered my CCs yet.  I've been spending this evening reading all of the horror stories of folks having install problems, cutting plastic, helicoils, etc.
« Last Edit: January 04, 2014, 04:42:31 am by Dragonbreath »

Offline nando

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #12 on: January 04, 2014, 03:52:59 am »
What are helicoil?
I am voting for anyone who wasn't there during the government shut-down.

Offline Dragonbreath

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2014, 04:23:00 am »
Helicoil is a product made of coiled metal that is inserted into stripped out bolt holes to provide a new threaded surface.  It's a product that none of us want to use ever, but like everything under the sun, there is a time and place for it.

Offline nando

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #14 on: January 04, 2014, 04:34:02 am »
I think I read in Proverbs: There is time for helicoils and a time for torque wrenches; a time for torsion bars, a time to hand-screw
thanks
I am voting for anyone who wasn't there during the government shut-down.

Offline Gypsy JR

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #15 on: January 04, 2014, 10:10:45 am »
Helicoil is a product made of coiled metal that is inserted into stripped out bolt holes to provide a new threaded surface.  It's a product that none of us want to use ever, but like everything under the sun, there is a time and place for it.

I haven't gotten my Helicoil kit out for like 8 years, but when you need one, you really need one. And yes, they work very well in most applications.

I would not be confident in their performance in an engine mount though.
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Offline HGP Connierider

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #16 on: January 04, 2014, 10:32:47 am »
I have the canyon cages and happy with them. wish i had them on when i dropped it in driveway and scraped mirror and fairing. only drawback is installing front ones. some people say they did it in 45 minutes. it took me 3 hours since i cut the wings like they recommend.
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Offline Adrexco

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #17 on: January 04, 2014, 03:00:16 pm »
The best way I've found to clean internal threaded holes is to use a firearms brass brush of the correct size. They are readily available, inexpensive, and come in sizes from 0.177" to 0.775"

Offline Adrexco

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #18 on: January 04, 2014, 03:07:26 pm »
I would not be confident in their (Helicoil) performance in an engine mount though.

Actually Helicoils in soft metals (aluminum) have a higher torque and holding force ability then the base metal threads.

Offline Cigar Jay

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #19 on: January 04, 2014, 11:33:37 pm »
dragonbreath
to clean holes use proper tap being carfull to not cross thread the tap

hunterbug it was all operator error messing up exesting threads as i did not remove old thread locker and tore threads out
from excessive force

Helli coils can be installed with motor in place
timecerts needed motor to be removed from bike.
the install was easy but i made a beginner mistake not knowing tork specks
or what permenite locktite was..
lesson learned the hard way
good luck
jay

Offline Canada-Dan

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #20 on: January 05, 2014, 02:29:06 am »
Would you help those in the crowd like me.... The only taps I know of are the ones that fill my bath tub and for the life of me I can't figure how that can help clean out a hole in my motor !
Can someone please tell me exactly what to ask the fella at the hardware store for ??
I'm sure I can find a video on YouTube University that will make me a graduate of tap usage in 5 minutes or less but any tips would be greatly appreciated   Thankyou.
Dan

Offline nando

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #21 on: January 05, 2014, 02:58:09 am »
I am with u Canada...
I am voting for anyone who wasn't there during the government shut-down.

Offline Dragonbreath

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #22 on: January 05, 2014, 04:03:53 pm »
dragonbreath
to clean holes use proper tap being carfull to not cross thread the tap

Thanks, Jay.  I read somewhere else that folks have used the original bolt (after cleaning) as a makeshift tap.  That seems like a pretty good idea, but I am not hugely familiar with taps.  I used one on something I screwed up (pun sort of intended) years ago, but I don't recall if there is a lot of physical difference between a tap and a bolt.  Do I remember correctly that the shaft of a tap tapers toward the tip?  If so, I can where that would be better for cleaning out threads than a bolt that is the same size as the hole being cleaned.

Offline Adrexco

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #23 on: January 05, 2014, 04:05:03 pm »
A "tap" is the name for teh cutting tool that cuts internal threads into a hole. They look kind of like a bolt, only the threads have longitudinal cuts down the length separating the threads. Theses gaps give the chips that are cut a place to go as the tool is threaded down the hole. A tap in the right hands is the best way to clean out a threaded hole, but you need to be careful not to damage the threads as it can re-cut them. I would recommend a 20ga shotgun cleaning brush and some solvent. You can get a brush from Wally World for about $3.

Offline mattchewn

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Re: Sliders , canyon cages , engine guards
« Reply #24 on: January 05, 2014, 04:10:52 pm »
Instead of paying for a tap you can file a relief (or two)  into a standard bolt to use as a tap for far less cash. Will not hurt threads and does a decent job of cleaning out crud.
Matt
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