Author Topic: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install  (Read 8989 times)

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Offline Adirondackjack

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Re: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
« Reply #25 on: August 12, 2013, 08:43:44 pm »
JR-

Great feedback. Thanks. Only problem I see is that where you are describing (under the right hand dash) is already filled with a special bracket I fabbed to hold the Autocom Super Pro, the IQ-170 controller for the Baja Squadrons, the Clearwater controller, and the PCV for mapping the fuel delivery. This leaves literally only the area currently occupied by the glove box that's big enough for the actuator. Given the length of the actuator cable, is it your opinion that it will reach over to the right side, in the event I have to use the glove box space on the left?

Inquiring minds want to know.

Thanks,

Rep
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Offline Gypsy JR

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Re: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
« Reply #26 on: August 13, 2013, 08:53:22 am »
The actuator cable reaches fine when the actuator box is on the right side on the ram air tube. When you put the box on the left side, you have excess cable and have to route it since you don't want any sharp bends in the cable or it will bind.

I had stuff under the right ram air tube cover myself, my compressor was there for the Stebel, and some other stuff. I decided it was easier to move what was there and put the actuator box there than make it work on the left side.

And it did. Installing the rostra with the box on the ride side like that is a piece of cake, it goes very fast. You will always have to bend and tweak the cable end stay bracket down at the idler arm, but the box can just be tie-wrapped to the ram air tube. So its convenient and quick.

I spent 2 days fabbing a bracket for the left side and once I saw pictures of it on the right side I hit myself in the forehead, like "d'oh!"  :-[
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Offline Adirondackjack

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Re: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
« Reply #27 on: August 13, 2013, 02:11:39 pm »
I agree with your assessment. Problem is that with my installation of the control boxes already on the right side, there's definitely no room there, and moving them would be lots of work.

I am going to look into eliminating the glove box, and will report back. On the bright side, everything works great that I installed so far. Will take and post pics as soon as the opportunity presents itself.

Thanks for taking the time to convey all these good ideas. :great: :beerchug:

Best,

Dave R.
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Offline Adirondackjack

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Re: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
« Reply #28 on: August 13, 2013, 03:44:55 pm »
 :-[  Just occurred to me that what you are really saying is that the essential connections to the bike must be on the left side (I've never done this before, and haven't had time to read ahead yet), so if you situate the actuator on the right side, you can use up that long cable as you route it around the nose of the bike to the left side where it likely gets attached to the bike (idler arm etc?)??

Dave R.
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Offline Gypsy JR

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Re: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
« Reply #29 on: August 15, 2013, 08:58:31 am »
Actually, the harness is very long and most connections are in reach.

There are wires under the harness band (tape) closest to the actuator box that end (short) that you will have to soldier/shrink-wrap longer leads to. I think I ended up using wire from the actual harness because I cut the length down on a number of them.

So the ones I used longer leads for are the sensor on the gearbox and the rear brake relay, though its been documented you can get the rear brake on/off wire up front in the right boot. By the time I read that, I already had mine done in the back. Live and learn.

But anyway, given the excessive length of the harness and the ease with which you can lengthen any of the wires in it, this should not be a consideration at all.

The actuator cable it self, you point the actuator towards the back of the bike when you sit it on the ram air tube, and route the actuator cable through the heat barrier (mine had a hole there already) and under the tank / above the engine to the left side and then down to a lazy 90 degree loop up to the cable stay at the idler arm.

It actually makes a very neat installation because the length of the cable is just right for that arrangement. Nothing extra to route, and not too short. 
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Offline Adirondackjack

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Re: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
« Reply #30 on: August 16, 2013, 04:45:55 am »
Actually, the harness is very long and most connections are in reach.

There are wires under the harness band (tape) closest to the actuator box that end (short) that you will have to soldier/shrink-wrap longer leads to. I think I ended up using wire from the actual harness because I cut the length down on a number of them.

So the ones I used longer leads for are the sensor on the gearbox and the rear brake relay, though its been documented you can get the rear brake on/off wire up front in the right boot. By the time I read that, I already had mine done in the back. Live and learn.

But anyway, given the excessive length of the harness and the ease with which you can lengthen any of the wires in it, this should not be a consideration at all.

The actuator cable it self, you point the actuator towards the back of the bike when you sit it on the ram air tube, and route the actuator cable through the heat barrier (mine had a hole there already) and under the tank / above the engine to the left side and then down to a lazy 90 degree loop up to the cable stay at the idler arm.

It actually makes a very neat installation because the length of the cable is just right for that arrangement. Nothing extra to route, and not too short.

So. . . . . . .are you saying that you think I will be able to mount the actuator on the left side (in place of the glove box), and that the cable won't be too long?
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Offline Gypsy JR

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Re: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
« Reply #31 on: August 17, 2013, 05:46:56 pm »
You will have to droop it down all the way to the bottom of the belly cowl, or go straight back and down and then back up.

Should be fine, with a little tinkering. Original installation was front side of the coolant reservoir (won't work well on 2010+, original how to done on a 2009) and that's closer and there was room for the actuator to snake around.

I like my glove box.  :motonoises:
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Offline Adirondackjack

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Re: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
« Reply #32 on: August 18, 2013, 04:43:21 am »
Not to dag this out, but couple points/questions:

1. I'm not attached to my glove box, so no loss there.
2. Since mine is a 2012, can you think of any other option than the left glove box area, and is there any way I can make that work?  No way I can eliminate/move the items on the custom bracket under the right dash panel. Not just saying this because it would be work (a lot of work). Just don't think that stuff would go well mounted anywhere else.

Thanks for the info.

Dave R.
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Offline Bruiser

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Re: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
« Reply #33 on: August 18, 2013, 06:00:22 am »
Dave, I put mine on the right side sitting on top of the right intake snorkel. I only had to take off the right upper plastic to do the install.
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Offline Gypsy JR

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Re: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
« Reply #34 on: August 19, 2013, 08:58:58 am »
Dave, I put mine on the right side sitting on top of the right intake snorkel. I only had to take off the right upper plastic to do the install.

Dave already said he had stuff there already and didn't want to move it. We covered that option a while back.  :beerchug:
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Offline Adirondackjack

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Re: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
« Reply #35 on: August 20, 2013, 02:37:36 pm »
Dave, I put mine on the right side sitting on top of the right intake snorkel. I only had to take off the right upper plastic to do the install.

Dave already said he had stuff there already and didn't want to move it. We covered that option a while back.  :beerchug:

Bruce-

JR is correct. We covered that option previously. I do appreciate your input, though. What we are currently considering is doing away with the left side glove compartment in favor of it being the only hidden space remaining that can accommodate the rather large actuator of the Rostra.
if you think I can somehow make this work, I'd love to hear your opinion. Obviously I am painted somewhat into a corner by all the other modules currently located in the custom bracket under the right dash. Who knew?

Best,

Dave R.
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Offline Gypsy JR

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Re: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
« Reply #36 on: August 20, 2013, 03:30:16 pm »
Just a thought, Dave, but if you could move the bracket/electronics from the right side to the left (and take over the glovebox) you could put the actuator on the right side.

I'm not clear why you cannot do that. If it is just wire patching to make the wires long enough to reach over under the plastic fuse cover in the center, it would be worth it. Or do you have knobs installed to turn things on/off/up/down? I have my BMW sockets on the right side, and was just lucky they were in a place where the actuator box didn't need to be. But I would have moved them (necessitating a new cover being purchased) if it came down to it.

Just because the right side installation is so darned clean.
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Offline Adirondackjack

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Re: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
« Reply #37 on: August 20, 2013, 08:34:46 pm »
JR-

Certainly worth considering. Remember, with all the extra farkles I have installed, moving the modules and wiring (while possible) could be a huge hassle. Going away for a couple days for R & R, but I will consider and think on it. I do have a powerlet BMW socket installed in that right dash cover. I wonder if I bought a left dash cover for a pre-2010, if the dash would fit. Takes care of the problem of blanking the door panel on the existing left cover. Thoughts?

See you in a couple days. Adirondacks here we come!

Best,

Rep
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Re: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
« Reply #38 on: January 17, 2016, 07:34:46 pm »
I just started working on my stebel install today. Its not nearly as easy to separate the horn from the compressor as it used to be I believe. The horn was epoxied to the compressor. After some time with a couple screwdrivers and a small hammer I was able to free the horn. I did a little damage and therefor come asking for advice. While removing the plastic of the horn I damaged the plastic air intake for the compressor. There is about an inch left that was not damaged, is this enough to just glue back in place? If not what are my other options. It looks like I might be able to tap it and use a nipple with a threaded end and then run a tube?
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Offline Scup

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Re: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
« Reply #39 on: January 18, 2016, 12:38:48 am »
Try this stuff.

J-B Weld 8237 PlasticWeld Plastic Repair Epoxy Putty - 2 oz

http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1453080990&sr=8-15&keywords=epoxy
--------------------------------------------
OR this stuff which is much stiffer when applied and can bridge a gap.

http://www.amazon.com/JBW8257-Epoxy-Kwikwood-Minutes-Paintable/dp/B00JBSL7ZE/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1453081263&sr=8-31&keywords=j-b+weld+epoxy

Luck

Josh
« Last Edit: January 18, 2016, 12:45:08 am by Scup »

Offline Landon

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Re: Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
« Reply #40 on: February 07, 2016, 04:16:00 pm »
I finally got around to finishing the install. I split my horn like others have and was going to install the horn in the stock location and the compressor where many others have. Separating the horn is no easy task, its epoxy together now and you have to be careful not to damage the pieces you need to utilize. After splitting the horn I tried putting it in the stock location but never came up with a configuration that I was pleased with and was afraid I would do damage under heavy braking. So I ended up putting the on the right side opposite of the glove box location, I had to drill a hole in the hanger to bolt the L bracket that I used for the horn. The L bracket was picked up off the shelf at Menards and I cut one side down so it did not stick up past the horn. I also found that a plastic  PEX 3/8" nipple (I used a 90 degree) fits down in the horn just perfect, it was nice and snug. I ran the air hose from the horn over the top of the engine and back to the compressor. I threw away the relay that came with the horn and went to AutoZone and bought a good sealed relay and bolted it on the right side behind the air dam, I used an existing hole. I was able to relocate the stock horn switch wires to the relay. Here are a few pictures of the finished install.





Landon
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