I know what you are saying, and probably did not explain myself properly.
....When I switched to that newer style clutch, I did not buy all new plates....yes, the diagram did call for ALL plates to be 2.3mm thick, in the new style clutch, but all of my 2.6mm plates were in perfect condition.
It would have been an extra @200.00 to do it as per the drawing...so, I mixed and matched some other 2.0mm plates to achieve the desired stack height. There was no way to land within the narrow stack height margin (45.6-46.4mm) and use my stock plates. So, I ended up with different thickness plates in an attempt to save money. It felt like insanity to have to build to this narrow margin, but if it was too tall, or too short, even by .5mm, the clutch arm's range of motion was way off.
Two other parts were interesting as well. If we go to this drawing....
http://www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b9043f8700223e479a1c1/clutch
92200 and 92144 Those went away on the newer assist/slipper clutch.
At this point again, I'm totally confused about your decisions and assembly, but if it works for you, for now, it doesn't really matter..
I will say this, I wouldn't want to be, or to meet the person, that buys this bike when you decide to sell it... you've created a FrankenClutch, with no way someone in the future could decode, and guess what parts you used, ditched, swapped, or decided upon. Its the thing some of us professional kinda responsible mechanics cringe at, and never do... as when some unknowing customer wants it worked on, and we quote a price, and it becomes a nightmare of a job... to simply "refurbish" a worn clutch.... it makes us, the trusted mechanic, look like fools...