Author Topic: 114 screws plus one  (Read 1590 times)

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Offline smithr1

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114 screws plus one
« on: January 10, 2017, 05:07:59 pm »
I am a bit past half way on my valve adjust.  I had a few that I put a smaller shim in and ended up at the same clearance?  At 50k miles ,and who knows if it was ever done before,  I had 2 in spec.  All were tight but the worst was one exhaust about .003 below the spec so not close to burning valves I think.

I counted at the peak and I had 114 screws or bolts out.  Then I found one on the floor.  Still have no idea where that one came from.  Wish me luck on putting it all back together... I can take anything apart.  Trick is in the re-assembly.
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Bob Smith (smithr)
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Offline jwh20

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Re: 114 screws plus one
« Reply #1 on: January 10, 2017, 05:30:40 pm »
Quote
  At 50k miles ,and who knows if it was ever done before,  I had 2 in spec.  All were tight but the worst was one ex

Question: Did you measure the old and new shims with a micrometer?  It's not uncommon for them to differ from the etched value.  Never assume the marked value is correct.

Also: Did you make sure you didn't get grit or dirt on the shim, bucket, or cam when you put the new shim in?  Since we're dealing with 0.001 measurements here it only takes a small particle to mess things up.
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Offline smithr1

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Re: 114 screws plus one
« Reply #2 on: January 10, 2017, 05:43:18 pm »
yes and no.   I mic ed everything including the buckets.  I considered grit but I was very careful to keep things cleaned and covered.  I turned it over by hand 6 times to see if the gap changed.   It didn't.    Since it was in spec and since the motor has 50k I am hoping that it will not change much in the next 50k and that the gap after running is what I expected.

PS:  I used a large flat pile of cardboard folded to about 2 inches thick to make a screw template.  I make a drawing of the part and make hole with a punch at each location of a bolt or screw.   I think this has got to be the best trick for keeping it all str8.
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Bob Smith (smithr)
Austin, Texas baby!
2010 Kawasaki Concours, Midnight Blue
COG 6197, CDA 107

Offline 4Bikes

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Re: 114 screws plus one
« Reply #3 on: January 10, 2017, 10:46:38 pm »
Nice accomplishment Bob. And the satisfaction that you did yourself and it was done right. Another owner that checks their own valve clearance and finds that they are not all in spec.
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Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: 114 screws plus one
« Reply #4 on: January 10, 2017, 11:14:30 pm »
I am a bit past half way on my valve adjust.  I had a few that I put a smaller shim in and ended up at the same clearance?  At 50k miles ,and who knows if it was ever done before,  I had 2 in spec.  All were tight but the worst was one exhaust about .003 below the spec so not close to burning valves I think.


I'm having a problem asking why more research into this CONundrum was not examined a bit closer, to ascertain, "why".

values after shimming should have been visible immediately.
I did have some that after my calc's and figuring, and re shimming, were off, but I did not just button it up and hope it was going to be ok, that is where I re-tracked the steps, and re-evaluated the bucket thing, and in the end result felt pretty confident I had reached "clearance Nirvana"...
sometimes these shims are mismarked, or worn with regard to marking.






yes and no.   I mic ed everything including the buckets.  I considered grit but I was very careful to keep things cleaned and covered.  I turned it over by hand 6 times to see if the gap changed.   It didn't.    Since it was in spec and since the motor has 50k I am hoping that it will not change much in the next 50k and that the gap after running is what I expected.


Please, and I ask you as a fellow Cog'r, and friend, make sure you actually have effected some changes when you replaced shims... I am very concerned that after you replaced a shim with a thinner one, that the clearance reading had not changed.

I'll add, don't rely on a reading of .00X" when doing shims.  It's a 4 place decimal we are dealing with, and .0006" shows as .001"
I don't think engines will be blown up, but when you delve into it, and do all this work, making things hit the "zone" for longevity, and service extensions, take the time, and correct any missed things before buttoning it up, and saying "all done".


semper fi
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Offline angelo

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Re: 114 screws plus one
« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2017, 01:26:28 am »
It is a s*** load of work to not get it right.  Just did my first one.  Luckily the math all worked - but I had to retrace steps several times to get it all back together.  A bitch for sure, but no other option really.  At 35K, I don't plan on enjoying this experience for a while.  If you're at 50K, I'd get it right and not worry about it again for longer. 

BTW - I realize my thoughts are not appropriate for guys checking every 15K miles -but feel my input is valid for someone with 50K doing it once for the next 25 - 50. 

Offline smithr1

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Re: 114 screws plus one
« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2017, 05:41:15 pm »
I thought long and hard about if I should take the cams out again and redue the two in question.  Truth is it was in spec and I did what the best shop in the land would do.  I moved on.  My guess is it was because my feeler gauges only read to .001 increments and that is partly why the gap did not appear to change.  The two are exhaust at .009 and that is good enough for me.
---
Bob Smith (smithr)
Austin, Texas baby!
2010 Kawasaki Concours, Midnight Blue
COG 6197, CDA 107

Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: 114 screws plus one
« Reply #7 on: January 11, 2017, 06:05:46 pm »
Sounds good
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I admit, I did have 2 that did not make the number I had calculated for shim swaps, and thus I went and pulled everything and made the decision to mess with buckets to get "what I really wanted to see",  I'll know if it paid off in effort next time I check. :beerchug:

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