Author Topic: Another Rostra wiring question...  (Read 3658 times)

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Offline RodneyW

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #25 on: March 05, 2016, 09:48:45 pm »
Up and running correctly, finally! :great:  Thanks for all of the help, special thanks to C14lvr (Bob) for taking the time to chat with me on the phone. 

The problem ended up being an extra brake light that the previous owner had installed.  It was on all of the time, with LEDs flashing back and forth, for visibility, and then it flashed when you hit the brakes.  For some reason I think that it was the "on all the time" part that caused the issue, not allowing the relay to work properly.  All I know for sure is that once I unhooked it, the cruise began to behave perfectly.  I may try to hook it up using a relay to isolate it someday, but for now I'm calling this project DONE.

Some final thoughts on the install.  Even though this was my third one, I still learned a few things.

1.  All relays are not the same.  Duh.  It makes a difference, a big one!  Use 5 pin automotive style N/C relays, and all will be well.
2.  The less slack in the linkage, the better.  I know you don't want it too tight, but slack causes several problems.  Once I reduced the slack to just a tiny bit, the cruise engaged smoothly and surged less.
3.  With this bike, the speed doesn't seem to effect the surging as much as the gear.  6th gear, at any speed you can go in 6th gear, is really smooth.  3rd and 4th, not smooth at all.  This was not the case with my other installs, but I am more than OK with the performance.
4.  If I were to do another on a C4, I would extend a lever to attach the linkage, as Zarticus stated.  I've done that before, and believe that it makes the whole system better.  The C14 is so powerful that a little twitch goes a long way.  Extending the attachment point would help tons with this.  But, as I said, I'm pronouncing this one DONE!  Good enough for who it is for...
5.  I appreciate this forum.  What a nice bunch of people, always willing to help!  And zero "I told you so", which is nice when you are frustrated. 
« Last Edit: March 07, 2016, 02:19:15 pm by RodneyW »

Offline C14lvr

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #26 on: March 06, 2016, 02:47:24 am »
RodneyW,
Thanks for saying that. I'm really glad to hear removing the extra brake light fixed your problem!

Now, maybe you can start enjoying this cool farkle!
Have fun on your trip, and ride safe!
Your friend,
Bob
2011 C14 ABS (current bike)
1982 Yamaha XJ1100J (sold)
1979 Yamaha XS11 (3200 original miles)
In the warden's words from Cool Hand Luke;
"What we have here is a failure to communicate."

Offline Deanc

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #27 on: December 13, 2017, 04:37:25 pm »

If you purchase your Rostra from Murph'skits, you order the MU-141 relay(s), and you wire them according to the schematic I have, the booklet, or BDF's tutorial, they'll work fine. These are N/C relays.

For use with the "engaged light", the pins between 30 and 87 are open (light off normally) and closed between 30 and 87A (unused.) Once the relay is energized, pins 30 to 87 close, and pins 30 to 87A open.
Make sense?

If you buy your relays from another source, say most auto parts stores...
These are usually N/O types! They can still be used, but you must switch around your wiring a bit, because they will work the opposite way from the MU-141 N/C type.

For the "engaged light relay;
Remove the pink wire (from the control switch) from 87, and move it to 87A.

Confirm all this, first, using a continuity tester.

Been there, done that! It can be confusing.
Bob

Greetings,

First off, thanks so much for the great info!

I'm in the midst of my Rostra install and having some issues.  I think I have the engagement light wired up correctly with an NC Relay but the engagement light doesn't turn on when I push the R/A or S/C buttons. 

Relay 30 to +12v
Relay 86 to +12v
Relay 85 to orange Rostra
Relay 87 to pink control switch
Relay 87a not used

So will the engagement light turn on once the bike is moving and actuator will charge the light?
Or perhaps do I have an issue with the VSS wire?

Thanks,
Dean

« Last Edit: December 13, 2017, 05:02:32 pm by Deanc »
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Offline Martin165

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #28 on: December 13, 2017, 06:40:28 pm »
Hi Dean, go into diagnostic mode and check to see if the red led comes on when you apply the brakes and that it flashes when we spin the rear wheel. If it is yes to both, VSS and brake circuit are ruled out.

My hunch says that the led will not blink when you spin the rear wheel (that is what mine did). If this is the case, easy to fix.

Martin
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Calgary, AB

Offline C14lvr

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #29 on: December 13, 2017, 09:22:55 pm »

If you purchase your Rostra from Murph'skits, you order the MU-141 relay(s), and you wire them according to the schematic I have, the booklet, or BDF's tutorial, they'll work fine. These are N/C relays.

For use with the "engaged light", the pins between 30 and 87 are open (light off normally) and closed between 30 and 87A (unused.) Once the relay is energized, pins 30 to 87 close, and pins 30 to 87A open.
Make sense?

If you buy your relays from another source, say most auto parts stores...
These are usually N/O types! They can still be used, but you must switch around your wiring a bit, because they will work the opposite way from the MU-141 N/C type.

For the "engaged light relay;
Remove the pink wire (from the control switch) from 87, and move it to 87A.

Confirm all this, first, using a continuity tester.

Been there, done that! It can be confusing.
Bob

Greetings,

First off, thanks so much for the great info!

I'm in the midst of my Rostra install and having some issues.  I think I have the engagement light wired up correctly with an NC Relay but the engagement light doesn't turn on when I push the R/A or S/C buttons. 

Relay 30 to +12v
Relay 86 to +12v
Relay 85 to orange Rostra
Relay 87 to pink control switch
Relay 87a not used

So will the engagement light turn on once the bike is moving and actuator will charge the light?
Or perhaps do I have an issue with the VSS wire?

Thanks,
Dean

Deanc,
First... Good news! You have the relay wired correctly! Congrats.
Second, engaged light is not going to light until the system is powered, and you've at least achieved 25-30 mph. Think of it as the "output" side... The servo has to be wired correctly, brake relay closed correctly to pass ground to it, vss hooked up correctly and sending signal, dip switch settings set correctly to control the servo, and when the servo begins to work or "engage" that light also lights up. As the servo engages, it sends out a 12 v. - ground signal on the orange wire out of the servo to your relay's pin 85. There's already 12 v. + positive to pin 30 & 86. This energizes the relay, and 30 flows to 87 12 v. + positive through the pink wire to your switch. You've already sent 12v. - negative to your switch, so this makes the engaged light come on. Think of that pink wire to the switch as a powered switchleg.

If you enter diagnostic mode correctly, tap either brake, the red led on the servo should light, and your brake relay should "click" as the brakes are applied.  "Power" light on the switch should light w/ backlights, and if you roll the rear wheel while watching your servo's red led light, it should flash as you roll it. If this all checks out, you should be good to go test it.

Get it OD, go at least 30 mph, turn it on, press set... should work.
Bob
2011 C14 ABS (current bike)
1982 Yamaha XJ1100J (sold)
1979 Yamaha XS11 (3200 original miles)
In the warden's words from Cool Hand Luke;
"What we have here is a failure to communicate."

Offline BDF

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #30 on: December 13, 2017, 09:34:47 pm »
Yes, the bike must be moving at ~20 MPH or more to engage the Rostra, so the engage light cannot be tested with the bike not moving.

Your pinout for the relay looks correct but I would need to know exactly which switch you are using to be sure about that. The relay is wired into the Rostra actuator correctly, and the way you are using the output is correct for a sourcing (positive switching) lamp.

By the way, both relays used on a Rostra installation on a C-14 need to be 5 pin relays; 4 pin relays will not work. And all relays use the same pin numbering / function system, so always go by the relay pin numbers and never by the color of any wire(s) that may be attached to those pins. Some relays for automotive use come with a harness already attached and there are no standards for colors and relay pin function but there ARE standards for the numbers and the relay pin functions.

Best of luck with your install.

To all: the way to enter diagnostic mode is dependent on which type of switch you are using, and the NSS switch cannot be wired to the actuator to enter diagnostic mode. The easiest way to find out which switch you have is to try both methods outlined in the Rostra instructions; using the 'wrong' method will not and can not hurt anything so there is nothing to lose and both methods can be tried in a few seconds. Beyond that, for some odd reason Rostras are finicky about entering diagnostic mode generally, and I have seen some units that just will not go into diagnostic mode no matter what is done trying to engage that. It just does not work in what seems like 1/3 of the cases (rough guess- I have not installed enough to know that that is an decent estimate).

As per the tutorial, the Rostra cable should be mounted as far away from the throttle arm pivot as possible, and it should be reasonably close to 90 degrees between the Rostra cable and the throttle arm though this is not really critical. Cable slack should be kept to the minimum safe amount, something like 1/16 to 1/32 of an inch; too much cable slop causes the Rostra to become jerky and somewhat violent in throttle movement at best, or fail to engage at worst. There is a timing circuit in the Rostra such that if the vehicle's speed does not increase w/in some specific time after the unit starts to open the throttle, it automatically disengages as a safety measure. So too much slack can and will cause a Rostra to <seem> that it is not engaging; actually it IS engaging but not for long enough to pull all the slack out of the system and actually open the throttle. This is an example of why an 'engaged' light can be very important in diagnosing any problem with a Rostra, too much slack and the bike will not respond but the engage light will turn on briefly before the Rostra shuts itself off.

Brian


Greetings,

First off, thanks so much for the great info!

I'm in the midst of my Rostra install and having some issues.  I think I have the engagement light wired up correctly with an NC Relay but the engagement light doesn't turn on when I push the R/A or S/C buttons. 

Relay 30 to +12v
Relay 86 to +12v
Relay 85 to orange Rostra
Relay 87 to pink control switch
Relay 87a not used

So will the engagement light turn on once the bike is moving and actuator will charge the light?
Or perhaps do I have an issue with the VSS wire?

Thanks,
Dean
KiPass keeping you up at night? Has the low fuel warning burned your retinas? Find peace, harmony and the answer to these problems. www.incontrolne.com

Offline Deanc

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #31 on: December 13, 2017, 11:42:05 pm »
Thank you so much for the feedback.  Great description of what is happening with the relay and the control switch Bob, it makes sense.

Ok, so I am able to get the unit in diagnostic mode however,
I can't get the light to flash when I move the rear wheel in diagnostic mode.
I have the gray wire from the Rostra soldered into the pink wire on the VSS side (next to orange/red and black/white wires); its a solid connection.  Also, I have the green clutch wire disconnected when I went into diagnostic mode; so that shouldn't be an issue.
Dipswitch settings are 3456 and 10 on, the rest off.

Here is what is working so far in diagnostic mode:
1. Red actuator light is on
2. Control panel back light is on
3. Control panel On/Off light is on
4. Brake relay clicks when using the front/rear brake and actuator blinks.

I'm a bit stumped because I think I have it all correct but no blinking lights when moving the rear wheel in diagnostic mode.
Please keep the help coming folks, I'm almost there...really appreciate the info you've already provided...
« Last Edit: December 13, 2017, 11:57:20 pm by Deanc »
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Sold: 2006 C10, 2 MM, SISF torque cams, Overflow Tubes, Murph Tip over bars & pegs, Rifle, Spencer Seat,  etc...  COG#: 10429

Offline BDF

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #32 on: December 14, 2017, 12:38:03 am »
That all seems correct.

You can easily test the output of the VSS with any voltmeter, digital or analog, simply by looking for an output voltage on the pink wire in the VSS harness (NOT the pink wire in the harness on the bike) and rotating the rear wheel very slowly. The voltage output will switch on and off and will be easy to see on any volt meter (VOM). Set the meter to the next higher voltage over 5 volts, you will be looking for a 5 volt square wave coming out of the sensor.

If the sensor checks out, the problem is in the Rostra and / or wiring of the Rostra. The grounds used by the Rostra are critical and I suggest not using anything other than a true ground as provided by Kawasaki; in the tutorial I suggest using the one under the top / left fairing cover, inside the rubber boot- it is the black wire with the yellow stripe (ground throughout the bike) and has the male bullet connector on the end. Grounding to the chassis is risky because resistances can appear due to mechanical couplings between the chassis point you choose and the actual negative terminal on the battery. Any wire on the bike that is black with a yellow stripe is connected solidly and with virtually no resistance into the ground circuit on the bike.

Brian

Thank you so much for the feedback.  Great description of what is happening with the relay and the control switch Bob, it makes sense.

Ok, so I am able to get the unit in diagnostic mode however,
I can't get the light to flash when I move the rear wheel in diagnostic mode.
I have the gray wire from the Rostra soldered into the pink wire on the VSS side (next to orange/red and black/white wires); its a solid connection.  Also, I have the green clutch wire disconnected when I went into diagnostic mode; so that shouldn't be an issue.
Dipswitch settings are 3456 and 10 on, the rest off.

Here is what is working so far in diagnostic mode:
1. Red actuator light is on
2. Control panel back light is on
3. Control panel On/Off light is on
4. Brake relay clicks when using the front/rear brake and actuator blinks.

I'm a bit stumped because I think I have it all correct but no blinking lights when moving the rear wheel in diagnostic mode.
Please keep the help coming folks, I'm almost there...really appreciate the info you've already provided...
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Offline Deanc

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #33 on: December 14, 2017, 02:45:13 pm »
That all seems correct.

You can easily test the output of the VSS with any voltmeter, digital or analog, simply by looking for an output voltage on the pink wire in the VSS harness (NOT the pink wire in the harness on the bike) and rotating the rear wheel very slowly. The voltage output will switch on and off and will be easy to see on any volt meter (VOM). Set the meter to the next higher voltage over 5 volts, you will be looking for a 5 volt square wave coming out of the sensor.

If the sensor checks out, the problem is in the Rostra and / or wiring of the Rostra. The grounds used by the Rostra are critical and I suggest not using anything other than a true ground as provided by Kawasaki; in the tutorial I suggest using the one under the top / left fairing cover, inside the rubber boot- it is the black wire with the yellow stripe (ground throughout the bike) and has the male bullet connector on the end. Grounding to the chassis is risky because resistances can appear due to mechanical couplings between the chassis point you choose and the actual negative terminal on the battery. Any wire on the bike that is black with a yellow stripe is connected solidly and with virtually no resistance into the ground circuit on the bike.

Brian

Thanks Brian, yes that is a good point.  I had a a few ground connections to the chassis so I moved them to black/yellow.
I still can't get the diagnostic light to blink while spinning the rear wheel.
I will try the voltmeter test; unfortunately, my voltmeter didn't come with the alligator clips and since I don't have a third hand, I'll have to go pick some up.

I started wondering if there is something wrong with placement/orientation of the sensor.  I did remove the sensor to attach the gray wire to the pink wire and then put it back.
Seems like something that I couldn't screw up because there is only one bolt and one way to reinstall; but I could check that too.

Thanks again,
Dean
2011 C14 Silver, Canyon Cages, Leo Vince SBK exhaust, Sargent seat, SISF Evolution Flash, etc.
Sold: 2006 C10, 2 MM, SISF torque cams, Overflow Tubes, Murph Tip over bars & pegs, Rifle, Spencer Seat,  etc...  COG#: 10429

Offline BDF

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #34 on: December 15, 2017, 01:18:32 pm »
Yeah, the sensor is a very simple mount and I doubt you did anything that is causing it to [not] read. Very easy to check though: that sensor is what the bike uses to display speed on the speedometer; throw the bike up on the centerstand, start it and gently let the clutch out (lean well forward on the bike so the rear tire is kept in the air) in first gear.... if the speedo reads anything, the VSS is working correctly. If there is a problem, the tach. will show the engine speed but the speedo will sit on the zero stop and not move at all.

Once in a while, some have had some trouble with wiring a Rostra into the VSS and caused the VSS to fail electrically. Not common but it does happen now and then and is quite easy to do (letting the pink wire touch anything grounded for example). So if the speedomometer test shows there is no signal from the VSS, you may have to replace it. Now that the bike has been out so long, those sensors are usually avaiable very inexpensively from salvage yards so not all that horrible a think really.

Again, best of luck and please do let us know how it ends up for you or if you cannot get around this problem.

Brian

Thanks Brian, yes that is a good point.  I had a a few ground connections to the chassis so I moved them to black/yellow.
I still can't get the diagnostic light to blink while spinning the rear wheel.
I will try the voltmeter test; unfortunately, my voltmeter didn't come with the alligator clips and since I don't have a third hand, I'll have to go pick some up.

I started wondering if there is something wrong with placement/orientation of the sensor.  I did remove the sensor to attach the gray wire to the pink wire and then put it back.
Seems like something that I couldn't screw up because there is only one bolt and one way to reinstall; but I could check that too.

Thanks again,
Dean
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Offline Deanc

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #35 on: December 16, 2017, 04:46:45 pm »

Once in a while, some have had some trouble with wiring a Rostra into the VSS and caused the VSS to fail electrically. Not common but it does happen now and then and is quite easy to do (letting the pink wire touch anything grounded for example). So if the speedomometer test shows there is no signal from the VSS, you may have to replace it. Now that the bike has been out so long, those sensors are usually avaiable very inexpensively from salvage yards so not all that horrible a think really.

Again, best of luck and please do let us know how it ends up for you or if you cannot get around this problem.

Brian

Thanks Brian,
I did what you suggested and that is exactly the problem; the speedometer read zero.
I had the pink wire exposed and it was sitting close to a ground source; that probably did it in.
Ordered a new VSS; on the way.

I'll keep this post updated after I get the part and things working.
Thanks so much for your help.
Dean
2011 C14 Silver, Canyon Cages, Leo Vince SBK exhaust, Sargent seat, SISF Evolution Flash, etc.
Sold: 2006 C10, 2 MM, SISF torque cams, Overflow Tubes, Murph Tip over bars & pegs, Rifle, Spencer Seat,  etc...  COG#: 10429

Offline BDF

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #36 on: December 16, 2017, 09:29:52 pm »
Glad to help if and when I can. Glad that worked out for you directly so you can now move ahead quickly without having to chase some 'ghost' electrical problem.

As you passed the other diagnostic tests, and found a very distinct problem with the VSS that you are about to solve, you should be all set with the Rostra install. Hope it works well for you.

Brian

Thanks Brian,
I did what you suggested and that is exactly the problem; the speedometer read zero.
I had the pink wire exposed and it was sitting close to a ground source; that probably did it in.
Ordered a new VSS; on the way.

I'll keep this post updated after I get the part and things working.
Thanks so much for your help.
Dean
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Offline C14lvr

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #37 on: December 17, 2017, 12:00:10 pm »
Good call, Brian!
 :great:
2011 C14 ABS (current bike)
1982 Yamaha XJ1100J (sold)
1979 Yamaha XS11 (3200 original miles)
In the warden's words from Cool Hand Luke;
"What we have here is a failure to communicate."

Offline Deanc

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #38 on: January 08, 2018, 11:02:33 pm »
Greetings and Happy New Years,

Here is the status of my Rostra issues:
I was able to get my speedometer working again with the new speed sensor.
Unfortunately, I still can't get the actuator to recognize speed in diagnostic mode (no flashing red light).

I checked the following:
- Made sure that my connection is good going from the gray wire to the blue/yellow wire.
- Disconnected the clutch wire from the actuator.
- Went out for a test ride and attempted to engage at 35+ mph...no luck engaging the CC.

Seems like I have every thing right.
Ugh, I'm so close!!!

Is it possible that something is wrong with the actuator?


2011 C14 Silver, Canyon Cages, Leo Vince SBK exhaust, Sargent seat, SISF Evolution Flash, etc.
Sold: 2006 C10, 2 MM, SISF torque cams, Overflow Tubes, Murph Tip over bars & pegs, Rifle, Spencer Seat,  etc...  COG#: 10429

Offline BDF

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #39 on: January 08, 2018, 11:18:00 pm »
Yes, it is always possible but I have never been aware of a bad actuator. That said, it is possible the same thing that damaged the VSS also damaged the actuator. Also it is possible that after the VSS was damaged, it then damaged the Rostra actuator through the gray wire. ??

If you are connecting to Blue / Yellow, you are using the bike's harness to wire to rather than the VSS sensor harness. This is fine but it is important to use the same circuit; the circuit changes color on the way through the connector and my tutorial specifies wiring into the VSS sensor harness. So I would suggest you double- check that Blue / Yellow connects to the pink wire after the connector to the VSS sensor itself.

I would suggest double- checking your dip switches and look in the Rostra manual to see the different sensing modes; one is using a VSS and the other is using a spark signal from the engine into the "tach" wire on the Rostra. You will also want to make sure that tach connection is NOT connected to anything and just floating (electrical term for 'not connected'). The DIP switches also choose what type of input you are sending the Rostra, you want to check DIP switch 10 to make sure it is set correctly.

Happy New Year to you and best of luck going forward with that install. I will continue to help as I can.

Brian

Greetings and Happy New Years,

Here is the status of my Rostra issues:
I was able to get my speedometer working again with the new speed sensor.
Unfortunately, I still can't get the actuator to recognize speed in diagnostic mode (no flashing red light).

I checked the following:
- Made sure that my connection is good going from the gray wire to the blue/yellow wire.
- Disconnected the clutch wire from the actuator.
- Went out for a test ride and attempted to engage at 35+ mph...no luck engaging the CC.

Seems like I have every thing right.
Ugh, I'm so close!!!

Is it possible that something is wrong with the actuator?
KiPass keeping you up at night? Has the low fuel warning burned your retinas? Find peace, harmony and the answer to these problems. www.incontrolne.com

Offline Deanc

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #40 on: January 08, 2018, 11:55:21 pm »
Hey Brian,
Thanks for your quick reply.

- Blue/Yellow is going to VSS pink.
- Checked dip switches and even tested diagnostic mode with 10 on (square wave) and 10 off (sine wave).
- Blue tach wire is floating.

Wow, this is unfortunate...I can't figure it out.
I'm thinking that its possible I ruined the actuator when I blew the speed sensor.

Well, its not the end of the world, its just frustrating because it was a lot of work but believe me, I'm very happy with this bike cruise control or not.  I'll leave the fairing off for a while and maybe take another look later this week.

Thanks again Brian and Bob (and others); I really appreciate your willingness to help.
2011 C14 Silver, Canyon Cages, Leo Vince SBK exhaust, Sargent seat, SISF Evolution Flash, etc.
Sold: 2006 C10, 2 MM, SISF torque cams, Overflow Tubes, Murph Tip over bars & pegs, Rifle, Spencer Seat,  etc...  COG#: 10429

Offline BDF

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #41 on: January 09, 2018, 06:45:33 pm »
Glad to help if and when I can. Sorry but I cannot offer any specific diagnostic path forward as you have covered all the things I can think of.

At this point, the only thing I can think of is to swap out the actuator. You would not even have to actually install the 'test' actuator, merely connect the actuator wiring harness on your bike to it and see if it passes the diagnostic regarding the VSS pulse train. But to the best of my knowledge, an actuator cannot be purchased alone and besides that, as a replacement part it would be the biggest part of an entire kit cost anyway. Unless you can find someone willing to let you use one as a test- mule but of course that is a lot of work just to remove the actuator from a working Rostra installation.

Once in a while they can be found as New- In- Box from someone who bought one and never installed it but those are rare.

You could also try Rostra customer service but once you mention the word 'motorcycle', they will end the conversation. That said, you may be able to get them to take a look at your actuator or sell you a  replacement seeing as you do own their product. ?? No idea if that will work or not.

Brian

Hey Brian,
Thanks for your quick reply.

- Blue/Yellow is going to VSS pink.
- Checked dip switches and even tested diagnostic mode with 10 on (square wave) and 10 off (sine wave).
- Blue tach wire is floating.

Wow, this is unfortunate...I can't figure it out.
I'm thinking that its possible I ruined the actuator when I blew the speed sensor.

Well, its not the end of the world, its just frustrating because it was a lot of work but believe me, I'm very happy with this bike cruise control or not.  I'll leave the fairing off for a while and maybe take another look later this week.

Thanks again Brian and Bob (and others); I really appreciate your willingness to help.
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Offline C14lvr

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #42 on: January 10, 2018, 05:29:42 am »
Deanc,
I, too, fear you may have damaged the servo's circuit board when it got your vss.
Very likely...

I can't remember... have I sent you a copy of my wiring diagram I made, via email?
It has a lot of additional info that could be helpful, if it's a wiring problem and not the servo.
If you'll pm me your email address, I'll shoot you a copy of it.

If it zapped the vss input side of the circuit board, the analog might still work with a P/U coil kit and some neodynium magnets placed in the rotor bolt heads. (You'd also want to have one extra magnet, so you could later remove the other magnets...) You'd have to switch some wires and dip switch settings, too.
I've done this a few times on bikes with either no or damaged vss's.
I mounted the p/u coil to the fork with a fabbed bracket.

But, it will look better, and be a lot less hassel to just get another replacement servo, if all the wiring checks, and the servo ends up being bad.

It may become a deal like... all the wiring and settings and relays and the switch and the throttle connection is correct...the servo's all that's left to question in the equation. So, just replace it.

I've spoken on the phone a few times to the guy at Rostra. He was very knowlegable and friendly, and tried to help every way he could when I was trying to troubleshoot a problem with one on a friend's bike.
One thing he stressed... they triple check every Rostra for perfect function before they leave the factory.
Very unlikely to get one new that's defective. They are a very good product.

Brian's correct about how they don't like to talk much when they find out it's been installed on a motorcycle.

Fortunately, I was able to convince him I knew what I was doing, and understood his product well.
Once he heard what I had to say, he was ok trying to help.
In this particular case, I had a damaged servo, but couldn't tell it at the time. It would work at times, then wouldn't at other times. The damage that occured to this particular servo was bad enough to affect the BMW's CPU. So, I had to make a new vss, a manual one... OR spend $1,000 for a new CPU.
$40 later, it was back in business with the p/u coil method.

Let me know if you'd like a copy of my diagram.
Bob
2011 C14 ABS (current bike)
1982 Yamaha XJ1100J (sold)
1979 Yamaha XS11 (3200 original miles)
In the warden's words from Cool Hand Luke;
"What we have here is a failure to communicate."

Offline Deanc

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Re: Another Rostra wiring question...
« Reply #43 on: January 10, 2018, 06:01:03 pm »
Thanks Bob, pm sent.
2011 C14 Silver, Canyon Cages, Leo Vince SBK exhaust, Sargent seat, SISF Evolution Flash, etc.
Sold: 2006 C10, 2 MM, SISF torque cams, Overflow Tubes, Murph Tip over bars & pegs, Rifle, Spencer Seat,  etc...  COG#: 10429