Author Topic: Battery Issues  (Read 707 times)

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Offline Rusty

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Battery Issues
« on: September 04, 2017, 09:45:31 pm »
KTried starting with car battery....starts but as soon as i pull off battery cables....bike dies. Had battery checked at cycle gear earlier and battery is good.....less than one year old. Could it be i connected it incorrectly? Or is there possibly a more serious issue. Started earlier in day. Stopped for about 15 minutes and then nothing. My bike is a 2008  C14. Any ideas?

Offline Zarticus

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Re: Battery Issues
« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2017, 10:26:37 pm »
Check & clean battery connections along with the grounds that are below & to the right of the battery  :beerchug:
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Offline Deepsea

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Re: Battery Issues
« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2017, 10:36:26 pm »
I had the exact same problem on my 09. Is this the original battery? Made a short stop and when ready to go key on and nothing else happened. After a long sojourn getting it home I pulled the battery and took it in for a load test. The test said the batt was good, twice. After giving it a gentle (not) bump on the counter the load test showed 4.? volts. Internal failure that only showed it ugly head after a gentle thumping. New batt and now it goes on a Tender even if just overnight.
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Offline DGOLD

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Re: Battery Issues
« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2017, 10:37:14 pm »
Agreed. I have had to reclean the connections several times. Once in the middle of an overnighter. Now if the bike just seems wonky cleaning the terminals seem to fix the issues. This bike is very sensitive to electrical flow

Offline Old Man on a Connie

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Re: Battery Issues
« Reply #4 on: September 04, 2017, 10:47:54 pm »
Aye Russ. Check those grounds. Remember there is 2 ground points.  :great:
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Offline Charby

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Re: Battery Issues
« Reply #5 on: September 04, 2017, 11:21:09 pm »
You got a week and half to get it figured out!

Offline RWulf

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Re: Battery Issues
« Reply #6 on: September 04, 2017, 11:45:32 pm »
So what brand are these batteries?

Offline Rusty

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Re: Battery Issues
« Reply #7 on: September 05, 2017, 02:06:03 am »
My battery is a Yuasa...less than a year old. I think I will check the load on the battery tomorrow or Wednesday and check connections for shorts again. Could be the battery. I had Cycle Gear check the battery but not with a load on it. My mistake. So hopefully it is not a bigger issue. Thank you for the responses and I will continue to troubleshoot. thank you all! I will be ready for the Provo next week!

Offline Deepsea

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Re: Battery Issues
« Reply #8 on: September 05, 2017, 02:12:31 am »
Testing a battery with a volt meter is a waste of time. It needs to be done with a Load Tester.
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Offline RWulf

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Re: Battery Issues
« Reply #9 on: September 05, 2017, 12:35:02 pm »
Was it Yuasa that had an issue with the inter cell connections within
the battery a few years ago ? Maybe they are at it again.

Offline JimBob

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Re: Battery Issues
« Reply #10 on: September 05, 2017, 03:26:10 pm »
Testing a battery with a volt meter is a waste of time. It needs to be done with a Load Tester.


Well, not a *complete* waste of time, but you have to know what that test can tell you.


It CANNOT tell you if a battery is good.


It CAN tell you if the battery is bad.


Just went through this. My truck has a newish (3 year old) battery. Drove around town the other day it was fine. Got in the next day and it would barely start. Checked voltage, 12.3. Almost meaningless (but historical data anyway). Put it on the battery tender overnight. Tender said OK in the morning. Disconnected, checked voltage...10.5! DEFINITELY a bad battery.


Took it to wallyworld - they charged and tested w/load tester...yep, bad (well duh, can't hold above 10v somthings broke).


Fun question for the techies here: why did the battery tender say it was OK when the battery obviously only produced 12v (I have an idea, and it has to do with how the tender tracks charge level and adjusts output).




Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Battery Issues
« Reply #11 on: September 05, 2017, 06:36:51 pm »
Battery tenders are just that, a "tender" not a "charger"... the electronics only monitor surface volts.. not deep cycle ampereage available, nor do they have the capacity @ 1.5 or less amps, to deep charge.  Now combined with the exponentially larger size and plate surface areas in a full sized car/truck battery, they simply cannot push the charge to a point it needs to be. When the "green light" is on, showing its charged, its only a surface charge placed on a battery that had been prior drained of deep cycle capacity. So, while the tender is attached, its "delicate electronics monitoring system" is sensing "yep, it all connected inside, and taking 12v", but that only because there is volts running thru a minute connection as "feedback"... once the tender is disconnected, and the battery sits a few moments, reattaching the tender will sow it goes back into "charge mode yellow light" for a short time, and then say "I'm charged" again..
That is the telltale sign...
Internal compnents of the battery, such as soilds condensed from the electrolyte bridging gaps between plates, or micro cracks in the internal tie bus work between cells, are never seen, so it appears it is good... but when deep cycle charged, over 2 amps, enough heat is produced to "open" those bad connections in the tie bus between cells, and make it apparent there is a compromise. Also, deep cycle tends to disolve and allow re uptake of some of those solids into solution, or in some cases, exascerbate them and make them more dicoverable.. tyhen during a load test, heat is produced again, and will show up the failed components... a battery that shows 10 v has a bad cell, each of the six cells in a 12v battery produces roughly 2 volts, (actually like 2.3v), so when you have a deep cycled charge, and a load test is done.. and you see 8v, its showing you have 2 cells that have a broken tie, or are bridged by contaminants at the bottom of the plates..

When I charge and test batteries, I use an older headlight, wired to alligator clips on a harness, and when I have a fully charged battery, I remove the charger, let it set for a couple minutes, check volts with a VOM, and then attach the headlight, and check volts again...its a mini load test so to speak, but on a bike battery, that load is enough to heat up.the internals,.and show a bad cell.

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Offline Rusty

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Re: Battery Issues
« Reply #12 on: September 10, 2017, 12:21:18 am »
So my friend Attila came down today and we trouble shooted the problem. It was corrosion on the negative connection on the battery. Cleaned it up with a little sandpaper and a file, put everything back the way it came out and no issues! Started right up and completed a 60 mile ride earlier today and bike ran great! Thank you Attila!

Thank you again to all with your advise. most all of you said to make sure your connections are good and I had one connection that was not.

Hopefully all is good so I go on the Wild Wasatch Rally! Leaving this Thursday! Thanks again!   :motonoises:   :motonoises:   :great:


Offline JTX

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Re: Battery Issues
« Reply #13 on: September 14, 2017, 03:33:40 pm »
So my friend Attila came down today and we trouble shooted the problem. It was corrosion on the negative connection on the battery. Cleaned it up with a little sandpaper and a file, put everything back the way it came out and no issues! Started right up and completed a 60 mile ride earlier today and bike ran great! Thank you Attila!

Thank you again to all with your advise. most all of you said to make sure your connections are good and I had one connection that was not.

Hopefully all is good so I go on the Wild Wasatch Rally! Leaving this Thursday! Thanks again!   :motonoises:   :motonoises:   :great:


Yessir.  It's almost always a ground issue.


I Hope when you put it all back, you put some dielectric grease or battery terminal protestant on it to help prevent it in the future.  It does work.  I do it on my car batteries as well.