Author Topic: Brake bleeding 2010 Non ABS  (Read 439 times)

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Offline C. Moore

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Brake bleeding 2010 Non ABS
« on: September 17, 2017, 03:31:39 pm »
Well I've read about it but never have had a problem until today. I installed a new front tire yesterday and in the process noted that my front brake pads were very thin. I removed the pads from the right side and headed down to the local shop but they only had one set. No problem I'll just reinstall the old ones and order another set. I got everything back together and now I don't have any front brakes. I bled both calipers and noted no air bubbles. I then turned my attention to the master. I put a mity vac on the master and all I get is bubbles. When I attach a hose to the master with no mity vac and pump the handle I get no bubbles. I bled both calipers again and am still stuck with no brakes. The brake handle will become firm and then goes soft. The brakes were great until yesterday. Any thoughts? As always I appreciate the input. Thanks.

BTW I've bled the brakes in the past with no issues. This is the first time I've ever touched the bled valve on the master.
'10 C14  Dallas, Texas
CDA #523
COG# 6662

Offline C. Moore

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Re: Brake bleeding 2010 Non ABS
« Reply #1 on: September 17, 2017, 07:38:31 pm »
Hmmm, after reading CW's thread from a few years ago it looks like I screwed one or both rotors up. CW had the same scenario as me.  I raised the front end and tried to spin the front wheel. Sure enough it's dragging on the rotor pretty bad at one point in the rotation. Thought I was being careful.
'10 C14  Dallas, Texas
CDA #523
COG# 6662

Offline smithr1

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Re: Brake bleeding 2010 Non ABS
« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2017, 01:14:28 pm »
Did you put the pads back in the exact same location?  If not I would think that could be how the rotors got bent.  Pads do not ware evenly and you put a thin one where a thick one was maybe?
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Offline C. Moore

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Re: Brake bleeding 2010 Non ABS
« Reply #3 on: September 18, 2017, 11:56:14 pm »
No clue if I put the pads back in same place. ive got the new pads in now and I'm waiting on the new rotors. I put a micrometer on the bad rotors and they're out of spec anyway. Looking forward to getting the new ones.
'10 C14  Dallas, Texas
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Offline Derek

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Re: Brake bleeding 2010 Non ABS
« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2017, 10:19:19 am »
Did you follow Kawi's procedure for front wheel install?  When I first read it I questioned it but followed it anyways.... no problems.  A Friend didn't follow it and found the front wheel dragging.  Re-did it according to the procedure and no drag.
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Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Brake bleeding 2010 Non ABS
« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2017, 08:06:12 pm »
Well I've read about it but never have had a problem until today. I installed a new front tire yesterday and in the process noted that my front brake pads were very thin. I removed the pads from the right side and headed down to the local shop but they only had one set. No problem I'll just reinstall the old ones and order another set. I got everything back together and now I don't have any front brakes. I bled both calipers and noted no air bubbles. I then turned my attention to the master. I put a mity vac on the master and all I get is bubbles. When I attach a hose to the master with no mity vac and pump the handle I get no bubbles. I bled both calipers again and am still stuck with no brakes. The brake handle will become firm and then goes soft. The brakes were great until yesterday. Any thoughts? As always I appreciate the input. Thanks.

BTW I've bled the brakes in the past with no issues. This is the first time I've ever touched the bled valve on the master.

Two points I always stress when doing front pad removal...both on the C10, and the C14...

First, before I remove the pads, I stick a thinner piece of would, or plastic in between the old pads, and gently compress the brake handle to push the pucks out about 1/16" or so, then I pull the pads and springclips...and completely clean the pistons on both sides with an old toothbrush and brake cleaner spray, to remove any possible adhered debris, and caked on crap, before pushing the pistons back into the caliper, also clean every surface of that inner caliper in the same manner, to make sure its clean.

Second
When I reinstall the wheel, I make sure the rotors are also cleaned, and I spray all the "buttons" down well to remove grit... then install wheel, and tighten the axle and nut using 2 wrenches... without doing the pinch bolts... I then install the calipers and pads assembled, onto the forks and with the axle still unpinched in the forks, I spin the wheel and clamp the brakes on, repeatedly, while watching the contact of the rotors, and pads, and axle position... if I see a larger gap on either side, I keep repeating this...
It centralizes the axle and wheel, between the "happy place" the assembled calipers distance provides between them...  once I am happy that no rubbing is going on, I tighten the pinch bolts. This method seems to work well for me, and I've been doing it for many years..

30 YEARS OF KAW.....Rich R. (the other one..)  COG 5977  JUSTAMEMBAHNOW

Offline C. Moore

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Re: Brake bleeding 2010 Non ABS
« Reply #6 on: September 21, 2017, 10:17:22 am »
Thanks MOB, I'll be following your steps with the reinstall when those new rotors come in. I've already taken the old ones off and they are warped.  Derek, I will also look over the manual and do whatever Kawasaki says needs to be done.
'10 C14  Dallas, Texas
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COG# 6662

Offline C. Moore

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Re: Brake bleeding 2010 Non ABS
« Reply #7 on: September 24, 2017, 08:45:03 am »
The new EBC rotors are on and once again everything is working properly. They look really good too.  Now I need to bleed the clutch fluid. Looks like sewer water compared to the brake side. As always I appreciate this forum and the good people who share their knowledge of all things Concours and motorcycles in general. I would be lost in the woods otherwise.  :great:
'10 C14  Dallas, Texas
CDA #523
COG# 6662