Author Topic: Clutch Friction Zone  (Read 368 times)

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Offline ChristopherO

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Clutch Friction Zone
« on: March 21, 2019, 07:57:15 pm »
I purchased an 08 Connie 2 years ago.  Absolutely enjoy the bike, yet, it has very little friction zone on the clutch.  When my brother came to visit and took it out his first comment was that it needs a new clutch.  He is a FJR owner and has ridden, canyon carved, extensively in the mountains of Colorado, where he lives, as well as many long distance hauls.  I had thought the clutch didn't seem as it should but his comment strengthened that conviction.  I can use the friction zone for parking lots and tight low speed maneuvers but it could be better. 
A friend said to put it in a higher gear, ride it about 40 mph and see if the rpm fluctuate.  I've done so with no fluctuation of the rpms.  The bike has approximately 36,000 miles on it as it sits.

Calling a Kawasaki dealer fairly local he said in 20 years he's never seen anyone come in for a clutch replacement on a Concours.  His offer was for me to ride it in to have his service tech take a ride and give his opinion.  When the temps warm a tad I'll do that.  I need to pick up some plastic rivets there, anyway.  Yet the plan was that I would get to know this bike better and tackle the job in the garage.

In preparation I had purchased a Barrett kit for the C14 and an 08 service manual a while back.  O, this is a bit more technical than I expected.  Then reading certain comments on this forum about the C14 and non OEM kits I'm thinking "CRAP, what have I gotten myself into?"  I'm fairly handy with tools and was looking forward to this chore.  Now I am considering this may be a trial by fire whereas I get out burnt.  I hate to willingly walk into the heat with no real reward.

What do you gentlemen experience when it comes to the length of friction zone on your Concours?  I've been taught that about an inch of lever pull is what to expect.  Mine's more like half that. 
Any creative comments welcomed.  Thanks,
Christopher

 

Offline Bud

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Re: Clutch Friction Zone
« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2019, 08:36:17 pm »
This might help.  I'd probably suspect the slave cylinder being corroded inside preventing full movement.
http://forum.cog-online.org/concours-14-zg1400-general-chat-and-tech/i-need-a-new-clutch/
2005 Kawasaki Concours
1982 Suzuki GS1100GK
1983 Honda GL650I SilverWing

Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Clutch Friction Zone
« Reply #2 on: March 21, 2019, 10:02:47 pm »
first off...
I hope you saved the receipt for the Barnett clutch... send it back... don't even try to use it.

Your Kaw tech was correct, (kind of) in the response "in 20 years he's never seen anyone come in for a clutch replacement on a Concours."
well, on the C14 it's only 12 now...

the issue likely stems from lack of flush, regularly, and purging/bleeding the fluid... makes a HUGE difference... and, worst case scenario, maybe a slave or master cylinder rebuild may be in order, most likely slave cylinder... but do the flush/bleed/bleed/bleed thing, and see what transpires...
If that has never been done, or documented, your problem is easily fixed.

30 YEARS OF KAW.....Rich R. (the other one..)  COG 5977  JUSTAMEMBAHNOW
and if you are gonna call me names... it's MR. Analdweeb if you please...

Offline ChristopherO

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Re: Clutch Friction Zone
« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2019, 06:15:20 pm »
Your replies are greatly appreciated, gentlemen.  As I was typing the original post my brother called to chat.  After explaining what I was up to he called his buddy, Chuck, who owns two C-14's, one in CO and another in Texas.  Having been a motorcycle cop Chuck is anal on the amount of friction zone and experienced what I am currently dealing with.  His advise is, as MOB exhorted me to do, to fully flush the clutch fluid system and check the working of the slave cylinder.  He was even encouraged by a tech to not use high viscosity synthetic oil.  His findings was after 400  miles of dino oil his friction zone was as it should be. 
My bike was flushed a few years before I purchased it in May of 2017, according to the Seller.  I have no reason to doubt the man.  But is certainly is time to do it again.
This excites me tremendously.  I have all the fluids for this job, except the Rotella T6 non synthetic oil.  My son is a mechanic with a Mityvac break bleeder tool and quite a bit of experience in bleeding systems.  If I can get away without needing to change clutch plates then all the better.  Hopefully eBay - sportbikeparts2u will take the clutch kit in return for a full refund.  Either way, your knowledge is quite helpful.


Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Clutch Friction Zone
« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2019, 07:30:39 pm »
good deal, and do have your son assist you, a 2 people during a brake/clutch flush make the job MUCH easier... and if he has a MightyVac, and has used it many times, it may come in handy... make sure you have plenty of DOT-4 brake fluid on hand, buy a quart of fresh, then you can do the brakes also..(pretty much takes a full quart to do everything, and doing a repeated fill/bleed/repeats will use it all up)... and not have issues.

best of luck, ride safe... :great:

30 YEARS OF KAW.....Rich R. (the other one..)  COG 5977  JUSTAMEMBAHNOW
and if you are gonna call me names... it's MR. Analdweeb if you please...

Offline Just Cliff

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Re: Clutch Friction Zone
« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2019, 10:27:57 pm »
  I have all the fluids for this job, except the Rotella T6 non synthetic oil.

T6 IS synthetic & good stuff.
Cliff
2008 Concours, 200,000 miles & counting. 
2014 1000 V Strom