Author Topic: Engine Mount Torque  (Read 11002 times)

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Offline Riles

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Re: Engine Mount Torque
« Reply #25 on: July 01, 2014, 12:43:54 am »
Just got Fred's DVD's. Big help with the body work removal, but I was hoping that he covered the re-torqueing procedure. No luck. I want to give this a shot anyway, since the bike has developed a buzz in the handlebars and pegs after I hit 6500 miles. Couple of questions. Where is the best spot to place the jack?? I want to avoid snapping off a bolt or stripping one. What's the best procedure for avoiding this?? And will a beam style torque wrench work for the counter clockwise nuts ( and I hope this isn't a dumb quest. , but are these reverse threads, still a little unclear on this)

                                                                                                                                                          Thanks, Jim

Offline Tundra Tom

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Re: Engine Mount Torque
« Reply #26 on: July 01, 2014, 12:13:35 pm »
Jim, Just use a piece of wood under the engine block on top of the jack. You are not "lifting" the motor only supporting it.
A beam wrench will work fine. In my illustration from page one the "A" bolts are used to turn the aluminum collars counter clockwise out into the frame to 18 ft. lbs. Initially you need to turn these clockwise (into the engine block) to loosen and I needed to spray penetrant oil on one to get it loose. I would recommend lubricating both. Remember the "A" bolt with the allen head is only used to turn the collars and to be held with a allen wrench while you torque the nuts on the opposite ends there by locking the sleeves in place. I used lock-tite 243 (blue) on every nut and bolt except the alum. collars as they are held at torque by the nuts on the end of the "A" bolts.
My rear mounts were both highly over torqued from the factory.

Good wrenching!

TT
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1974 Kawasaki H-1 500
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Offline Riles

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Re: Engine Mount Torque
« Reply #27 on: July 01, 2014, 03:21:41 pm »
Thanks Tom for the advice. From what I've done to the bike so far, all the fasteners seem way over torqued. I'm surprised, I thought the Japanese motorcycle companies were "attention to detail" oriented. After the description, it would seem the ccw mount would be the most critical due to its ability to actually move the frame.
                                                     Jim

Offline Landon

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Re: Engine Mount Torque
« Reply #28 on: April 24, 2016, 11:37:25 pm »
Looks like I will be pulling the fairings and trying this procedure. My bike was smooth till a couple weeks ago and now my hands are numb in no time do to vibration. Worth a shot.
Landon
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Offline Landon

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Re: Engine Mount Torque
« Reply #29 on: April 26, 2016, 11:19:53 pm »
Looking for a little guidance. I am in the process of doing this procedure and the OP states step 11 to tighten subframe bolts. Can anyone help me out and maybe provide a picture showing exactly which bolts are being referred to as the subframe bolts?
Landon
2012 C14 Arabian Red

Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Engine Mount Torque
« Reply #30 on: April 26, 2016, 11:34:08 pm »
I can only offer this, obtain a factory service manual, read it, and pay attention to the procedure.
asking someone to spend an hour or more of their time, dictating the procedure, torque values, and other such stuff, is kinda selfish, and you really do need a manual... for every step of maintenance.

trying to talk someone thru this type of procedure, is a loosing proposition on both peeople involved, on your part, you may not understand, without diagrams, and explicite photos what needs to be done, on the other hand, those that offer help, vary from someone with a manual, that has never loosened a bolt, to someone who has taken this bike down to it's bare bones.. in either case you are asking for something that will never be explained well enough, to compare what the manual dictates, and your comprehension of the instructions.

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Offline SWOJO95

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Re: Engine Mount Torque
« Reply #31 on: April 26, 2016, 11:48:57 pm »
Deleted.......I didn't read the whole thread and posted a link to the same thread....Doh. :-[

Offline Landon

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Re: Engine Mount Torque
« Reply #32 on: April 26, 2016, 11:59:25 pm »
I can only offer this, obtain a factory service manual, read it, and pay attention to the procedure.
asking someone to spend an hour or more of their time, dictating the procedure, torque values, and other such stuff, is kinda selfish, and you really do need a manual... for every step of maintenance.

trying to talk someone thru this type of procedure, is a loosing proposition on both peeople involved, on your part, you may not understand, without diagrams, and explicite photos what needs to be done, on the other hand, those that offer help, vary from someone with a manual, that has never loosened a bolt, to someone who has taken this bike down to it's bare bones.. in either case you are asking for something that will never be explained well enough, to compare what the manual dictates, and your comprehension of the instructions.

Thanks for questioning my ability. I do own a manual and have read and re-read the procedure more than once. Personally I don't think you should judge me without knowing me. With that said I've figured it out.
Landon
2012 C14 Arabian Red

Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Engine Mount Torque
« Reply #33 on: April 27, 2016, 03:07:25 am »
I can only offer this, obtain a factory service manual, read it, and pay attention to the procedure.
asking someone to spend an hour or more of their time, dictating the procedure, torque values, and other such stuff, is kinda selfish, and you really do need a manual... for every step of maintenance.

trying to talk someone thru this type of procedure, is a loosing proposition on both peeople involved, on your part, you may not understand, without diagrams, and explicite photos what needs to be done, on the other hand, those that offer help, vary from someone with a manual, that has never loosened a bolt, to someone who has taken this bike down to it's bare bones.. in either case you are asking for something that will never be explained well enough, to compare what the manual dictates, and your comprehension of the instructions.

Thanks for questioning my ability. I do own a manual and have read and re-read the procedure more than once. Personally I don't think you should judge me without knowing me. With that said I've figured it out.

Looking for a little guidance. I am in the process of doing this procedure and the OP states step 11 to tighten subframe bolts. Can anyone help me out and maybe provide a picture showing exactly which bolts are being referred to as the subframe bolts?

well, I guess you decided to read it?

and, that's good. Nobody was "judging" you, and frankly you were not the original poster of the question...  ::) and you missed my point about the answers you may get...
with that said, glad you now have it sorted out, and by all means, stick around, and the next person that asks the procedure, step up, and tell them everything about how to do it... please... and make sure you get it all straight, and included, don't leave anything out...
and at some point you will understand my statements about this. might want to read that again, and understand I said "you might get responses from people who never.." snip."
 :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[

ride safe.
« Last Edit: April 27, 2016, 03:13:53 am by MAN OF BLUES »

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and if you are gonna call me names... it's MR. Analdweeb if you please...

Offline Landon

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Re: Engine Mount Torque
« Reply #34 on: April 27, 2016, 10:56:15 am »

and frankly you were not the original poster of the question...  ::)

Forgive me if I took your response as being directed to me as you posted directly after my request. I should have known you were responding to posts from nearly two years ago.

and you missed my point about the answers you may get...
with that said, glad you now have it sorted out, and by all means, stick around, and the next person that asks the procedure, step up, and tell them everything about how to do it... please... and make sure you get it all straight, and included, don't leave anything out...

I don't think I asked for a step by step nor did I ask for someone to come to my house and do it for me. I didn't need that as I have the manual and Wild Bill did an excellent procedure guide in the original post of this thread. I simply asked for clarification on one bolt that is not shown in this procedure in the manual, I was able to go back to another section of the manual and determine the bolt that was in question by me.

I certainly don't have answering questions in the future if needed. Whether you think its right or not. Personally that is why I am a member of COG and this community, to learn myself and help others if I am capable of doing so.


and at some point you will understand my statements about this. might want to read that again, and understand I said "you might get responses from people who never.." snip."
 :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[
I understood your response just fine. Just as I might get responses from people who never, I might get responses from people who have been doing it for their whole life. Of course I guess we should all just roll our bikes to the dealer and let the service tech that's probably never turned a bolt on a C14 do the work, cause he's a "Professional"
Landon
2012 C14 Arabian Red

Offline DaddyFlip

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Re: Engine Mount Torque
« Reply #35 on: July 04, 2016, 01:14:04 am »
Since I believe this is the premier thread for learning about the engine re-torque routine, I'm posting my update here.

Mine is a 2011 and I referenced a year 2010 service manual. There are a couple of changes from WB's original post:

  • The 2010 manual says to torque the rear collars to 11 ft-lbs whereas the older manual says 18 ft-lbs. This has already been noted in an earlier post. I think the issue is still up in the air; I don't think there should be different torque values for this. Kawasaki service manuals are notorious for containing errors. I went ahead and used 11, but for the record we should find out the one true value for all model years, which I believe is one or the other.
  • The torque sequence is different as well in the newer manual. Remember, the manual is describing installing the engine from scratch, starting with all the brackets and bolts removed. We are starting with all the brackets and bolts in place, but hand tight. Wild Bill (and the old service manual) said the left front engine mounting bolt should be torqued to spec first. It is my opinion, based on a reading of both manuals, that this is an error for all model years. The updated manual indicates that the upper then lower rear mounting bolts/collars should be torqued to spec first, then the left front bracket bolts, the left front engine mounting bolt, the upper then lower rear mounting bolt nuts, the right front bracket bolts, and finally the right front engine mounting bolt. Finish with the subframe bracket bolts in any order.

A couple of helpful hints: (1) The rear brake pedal partially blocks the lower rear mounting bolt and it is very difficult to get a torque wrench in that space. Remove the two bolts holding the foot peg bracket to the frame and swing the bracket out of the way; (2) On the left front engine bracket, access to the forward bolt is obscured by a large bundle of wires and the fairing bracket. There is a clip holding the wire bundle to the bracket that needs to be pulled out so that a ratchet extension can be placed between the bracket and the wire bundle. (my only pic from the work today)



A note about the left side nuts on the rear mounting bolts. These do not require thread locker as they are a self-locking type. They do not come from the factory with locking compound. Also, the manual says to back (hold) the bolts when turning the nuts so as to prevent them from changing the torque on the collars. I did this, but the bolts didn't even try to move.

The procedure is way easier to do than to read about. Best way to tackle it is to take your time and use your eyes. Play with the bolts and collars in the back- you can't mess it up. Yes, you have to remove the side fairings to access the front brackets and subframe brackets. It's a good time to also check your exhaust header nuts and upper radiator bolts. All of mine were significantly loose. I could reach five exhaust nuts from the right side and one from the left side with a box-end 12mm wrench. The second and third nuts from the left side can be reached from below with a 16-inch ratchet extension and a U-joint adapter. The upper radiator bolts can be reached from the top on either side of the steering head.
« Last Edit: July 04, 2016, 01:33:29 am by DaddyFlip »
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Offline Jerdurr

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Re: Engine Mount Torque
« Reply #36 on: August 08, 2019, 02:44:54 pm »
Folks, my 2012 has the buzziness disease, so I'm in the process of starting the re torquing sequence. To torque the sub-frame bolts, considering there's a difference in torque values from older manual (17 ft/lb) to the newer manual (11 ft/lb)...

Should I re torque the lower sub-frame bolts to 18 or 11 ft/lb? Thank you all for your help!

JD
Best,

JD

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