Author Topic: First valve adjust observations  (Read 6354 times)

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Offline NukeWorker

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Re: First valve adjust observations
« Reply #75 on: February 04, 2018, 10:19:40 pm »
Question, Trying to remove right side subframe strut, there is this piece of plastic in front of it. How does this come out? Image at link
https://imgur.com/a/q7v7O
2013 Concours 14 Black
Previous Bikes:
2002 V-Star 1100 Classic Silverado
1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 500

Offline 4Bikes

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Re: First valve adjust observations
« Reply #76 on: February 04, 2018, 11:35:13 pm »
IIRC, the radiator heat shroud tilts forward after you remove the horn bracket and remove the top radiator bolts and tilt that forward. The whole adjustment is easier if you completely remove the radiator. That said, I can’t remember if that subframe member can be wiggled out before those steps.
Silver 2011 C-14. Previous rides: KZ-400, KZ-750, KZ-1000.  Keep the rubber side down.  Ride Fast......Live Slow......

Offline NukeWorker

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Re: First valve adjust observations
« Reply #77 on: February 04, 2018, 11:44:58 pm »
Thanks, just figured out I was going to have to remove the radiator anyway.  Oh well, was planning on replacing the coolant with SISF's cocktail anyway.  Guess it's just going to be more.  Also, do Canyon Cages have to be removed or can I do it with them still installed.
2013 Concours 14 Black
Previous Bikes:
2002 V-Star 1100 Classic Silverado
1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 500

Offline Road Runner

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Re: First valve adjust observations
« Reply #78 on: February 05, 2018, 01:36:10 am »
Thanks, just figured out I was going to have to remove the radiator anyway.  Oh well, was planning on replacing the coolant with SISF's cocktail anyway.  Guess it's just going to be more.  Also, do Canyon Cages have to be removed or can I do it with them still installed.

Canyon Cages "do not" have to be removed. I've performed 2 valve checks/adjustments with them in place ...
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Offline JOHN

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Re: First valve adjust observations
« Reply #79 on: February 06, 2018, 05:29:54 pm »
When I started this thread, I gave a general thank you to forum members who posted valve check info. Lots of great info here. One that really helped me was 4bikes detailed post. A big thanks. Also the factory manual and Freds vids were a must for me.
I suspect my situation is much like many of yours. I'm not a professional mechanic, but I'm good enough to work on my vehicles without destroying them. I sell parts at a car dealership since 1995, work with professional mechanics everyday. I observe and learn, and I know my limits and know when to ask for help. I had to do my research before deciding that I could do this valve job myself. One of my coworkers rides a 2004 FJR, has done it on that bike twice, told me not too bad and I could handle it.
One main factor for me, like many of you, is that paying a bike dealership to do the work (quoted 4.8 hours) was never an option. I don't have a distrust of factory techs like some people, I work with techs all day. I know its hard for them to make a living without working fast. Knowing this, a tech getting only 4.8 hrs to do a Concours valve check and adjustment would hate doing it and maybe rush the job. I understand. I wouldn't do this for 4.8 hours pay. No way.
I bought a harbour freight bike lift, a gasket kit and sparkplugs from Murphs, and dove right in. Learned a lot, had some fun, no issues during the job.
Even though I double checked all my work, was confident everything was put together correct and engine was in time, it was still stressfull when I reached up and hit the starter button. It was such a sweet sound. Had to get a friend to help sync throttle bodies, and it went smoothly also. Either I'm really lucky or this job isn't as bad as I had built it up in my mind to be.
As others before me have said, removing the radiator is a no brainer. Easy to do and makes access to engine way better. Also, a good time to flush it while its out.
Thanks again for all the good info, and good luck to all of you who are about to start a first time valve adjustment.

Offline City Slicker

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Re: First valve adjust observations
« Reply #80 on: February 08, 2018, 08:07:58 am »
... it was still stressfull when I reached up and hit the starter button ...


I've just completed my valve adjustment, started it up about half hour ago with exactly the same feeling.

Having access to only the service manual and comments on this forum about the work involved, there were only a couple of gotchas I would have liked to know about beforehand as a first timer.

The first is to be very aware of the dowels under the camshaft caps as you remove them from the engine. It wasn't until I had removed all of them that I realised that they are not firmly in place in either the cylinder head or caps and I managed to lose one somewhere before I realised. I could so easily have dropped one into the crankcase or bore with a bit of bad luck. There are two dowels per cap, seated on the bolts closest to the edge of the cylinder head.

The second is to have had a good understanding of the camchain tensioner installation to ensure that the camchain is tensioned at the end of the process. I got some help from the forum here, and thanks for your support with that.

This may not apply to your bike but mine has had a weeping rocker cover gasket for the last 30,000 miles - boy, what a mess! - I opted to use liquid gasket for the rebuild, applied both sides of the gasket and to the plug gaskets as well. I used ThreeBond TB1215, and following the advice on the forum, nipped the bolts down and allowed to cure before final torqueing.

Having prevoiusly replaced the spark plugs I was fearful of the valve check adjust procedure knowing how little space there was to work. However, when you remove the rh engine mount and rocker cover, and work mostly from the right hand side of the bike, there's oodles of room. I did buy a nice tool to work on the cam cap bolts, see Wera Tool-Check Plus in particular the amazing ratchet handle which handles about 60Nm torque, plenty to get bolts unwound and re tightened with your whole hand on the tool in that space.

To get the space to work, you are going to have to drop the radiator and remove the plastic heat shield behind it. You do not have to remove the rad completely - once you have removed the top two fasteners and one at the lower bracket it will drop down between the exhaust manifold and front mudguard where you can leave it supported or tied up.

Offline City Slicker

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Re: First valve adjust observations
« Reply #81 on: February 08, 2018, 08:23:26 am »
If you have access to a 3D printer, I made a tray for the cam buckets and shims that you can print and use next time you have to pull the cams.

You'll need a printer with at least a 240mm bed dimension (9.5 in old money)