Author Topic: Lifting the Tank to Route Wires  (Read 3349 times)

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Offline 4Bikes

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Lifting the Tank to Route Wires
« on: May 07, 2015, 02:50:42 pm »
Adding a powered Farkle here and there over time is starting to make a mess at the battery box.  It’s now time to add the FZ-1 fuse block in the tool kit area.  To do this, I’m going to need to route some wires from the front to the rear. Doing this work at the next valve check would be best, but I want to get a jump on the upgrade since I think I’m taxing the accessory leads at this point.
 
I read a few threads showing the gas tank being propped up in the front to route cables, without needing to even remove the mid fairing (just flexing them to pop some tabs).  Some things weren’t too clear, so can it really be that simple?  Can the tank be propped without the need to remove any fuel lines or cables?

I guess I should also ask, is there a way to route the cables without going under the tank or removing all of the plastic?

Silver 2011 C-14 and 2019 Versys 1000 SE LT+.  Previous rides: KZ-400, KZ-750, KZ-1000.  Keep the rubber side down.  Ride Fast......Live Slow......

Offline SWOJO95

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Re: Lifting the Tank to Route Wires
« Reply #1 on: May 07, 2015, 02:58:17 pm »
I think you should be able to.  If I remember correctly, when I removed my tank, I had to prop it up just to get room to get in there to disconnect the fuel line.

Offline jwh20

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Re: Lifting the Tank to Route Wires
« Reply #2 on: May 07, 2015, 03:14:26 pm »
You can lift the tank a bit and prop it up.  In fact you must do it in order to get access to the wires and hoses that must be disconnected before you can remove it.  Two things to remember:

1) It's a LOT easier to do if the tank is near empty.  So if you can, ride it down to near empty.  If not, try to siphon as much out as you can.

2) It's really tight under there and you may be better off just taking the plastics and the tank off and doing the job right. 

You run the risk of snapping a plastic if you put too much pressure on it and you also will be able to do a much better job of wiring with the tank all the way off.  It's not as hard to remove/replace as it first looks.
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Offline 4Bikes

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Re: Lifting the Tank to Route Wires
« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2015, 04:18:14 pm »
Thanks for your replies.  I wanted to tackle it this weekend and just filled the tank last night. :-[  I guess I have some miles to do in the next couple of days, or wait for the next opportunity.   :motonoises:  I totally appreciate #2 JWH, but I'll see what I'm into before deciding to go that far.  My hope is to get the wiring home runs done front to back and then tidy it up some more when the plastic comes off next time. 
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Offline Bruiser

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Re: Lifting the Tank to Route Wires
« Reply #4 on: May 08, 2015, 03:48:08 am »
Adding a powered Farkle here and there over time is starting to make a mess at the battery box.  It’s now time to add the FZ-1 fuse block in the tool kit area.  To do this, I’m going to need to route some wires from the front to the rear. Doing this work at the next valve check would be best, but I want to get a jump on the upgrade since I think I’m taxing the accessory leads at this point.
 
I read a few threads showing the gas tank being propped up in the front to route cables, without needing to even remove the mid fairing (just flexing them to pop some tabs).  Some things weren’t too clear, so can it really be that simple?  Can the tank be propped without the need to remove any fuel lines or cables?

I guess I should also ask, is there a way to route the cables without going under the tank or removing all of the plastic?

Taking the tank off is a piece of cake, but to prevent accidentally scratching the side covers, I take them off also.
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Offline The Pope

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Re: Lifting the Tank to Route Wires
« Reply #5 on: May 08, 2015, 09:53:25 am »
Now ..... just a thought.... if most of the accessories that you're going to be adding are going to located at the front of the bike..... why not mount the FZ-1 up front? Now if most of your accessories are going in the rear area of the bike, carry on.
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Offline 4Bikes

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Re: Lifting the Tank to Route Wires
« Reply #6 on: May 08, 2015, 10:48:59 am »
Now ..... just a thought.... if most of the accessories that you're going to be adding are going to located at the front of the bike..... why not mount the FZ-1 up front? Now if most of your accessories are going in the rear area of the bike, carry on.
It was more than a thought, and actually a heavy consideration.  I have Stebel horn and might add cruise at some point, so the space up front is mostly accounted for.  The useless tool box actually makes a great place for the FZ-1.  The lastest Farkle that put me on the limits of the accessory leads was adding USB power to the right saddle bag.  I dug for the rear leads to do that, and plan to use that lead to power the FZ-1 relay. 

I found that by using Pandora with the Zumo 590, the IPhone 5s battery was going dead in 2 hours.  Powering the IPhone in the saddle bag was the best solution since I don't always use a tank bag to power the phone from the front.  Good thought though, but either way I was shuttling wires front to back.    Thanks all for the advice.
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Offline Sailor_chic

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Re: Lifting the Tank to Route Wires
« Reply #7 on: May 08, 2015, 12:50:57 pm »
I am using the FZ-1 on my bike and have it mounted up front. I did lift my tank so I could run power leads to the seat area for heated clothes. I even wrapped the two 16ga wires in spiral wrap and they fit fine. Just like was mentioned, do this with a near empty tank and it will be easy.
As far as running your Stebel horn through the Fuzeblock FZ-1, you may want to reconsider this. Since the horn is a big amperage draw, (30 amp if memory serves correctly) this will consume the allowable power that the FZ-1 has to offer. When I installed my Stebel, I ran that directly to the battery as well as leads from the FZ-1
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Offline The Pope

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Re: Lifting the Tank to Route Wires
« Reply #8 on: May 08, 2015, 03:29:38 pm »
As far as running your Stebel horn through the Fuzeblock FZ-1, you may want to reconsider this. Since the horn is a big amperage draw, (30 amp if memory serves correctly) this will consume the allowable power that the FZ-1 has to offer. When I installed my Stebel, I ran that directly to the battery as well as leads from the FZ-1
A 40 amp relay in there somewhere that is controlled by the factory horn switch is what I've seen used.
The Pope
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"The Universe is a contest between engineers making things idiot-proof and God making bigger idiots. So far, God is winning by a wide margin." (Unknown author, well I don't know who said it.)

Offline 4Bikes

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Re: Lifting the Tank to Route Wires
« Reply #9 on: May 08, 2015, 05:09:45 pm »
As far as running your Stebel horn through the Fuzeblock FZ-1, you may want to reconsider this. Since the horn is a big amperage draw, (30 amp if memory serves correctly) this will consume the allowable power that the FZ-1 has to offer. When I installed my Stebel, I ran that directly to the battery as well as leads from the FZ-1
A 40 amp relay in there somewhere that is controlled by the factory horn switch is what I've seen used.
Thanks for the reminder SC, since I may have tried rewiring the Stebel at the battery box before the relay up front reminded me how many amps that horn draws. The Stebel horn is already wired directly to the Battery with the relay and fuse.  It’s actually the first Farkle I installed, so the wiring is perfect.  It’s all that other “stuff” that has been added that is the mess I want to clean up with the FZ-1.  The job just got easier because everything on the front of the bike that needs to get rewired is on the left side.  I’m glad I asked about the routing. 
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Offline Sailor_chic

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Re: Lifting the Tank to Route Wires
« Reply #10 on: May 08, 2015, 11:04:06 pm »
I'm glad that I am able to help,  finally.
Nicole     Port St Lucie, FL.
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Offline 4Bikes

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Re: Lifting the Tank to Route Wires
« Reply #11 on: May 11, 2015, 11:42:47 am »
I installed the Fuze Block FZ-1, purchased at Amazon.  I know others have done this before, but this is what worked for me.

I measured out and numbered 6 each, 10 foot lengths of 16 Ga. Red and Black wire for six total circuits to the front.  I only needed four circuits but added two more for the future.
I cut 10 feet of the Braided Wrap-Around sleeving.  This stuff protects the cables, is flexible, and is great for fishing though the bike.
http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/WrapAroundSleeving.php

I measured two 10 Ga Red and Black wires from the battery box to the FZ-1 in the tool tray.  The Power cables were added to the same braided sleeve.  Once the wires were added to the braided sleeve, it was time to fish the cables.



I removed the front and back gas tank mounting bolts and loosed but did not remove the mid fairing panels.  You need to flex them out a bit to release the tabs from the tank.  I placed a 1 ½ Inch wood block on the rear of the tank to prop it up enough to route the cables.



There is an opening in the bottom rear of the battery box and I found that it was simple to fish the braided wire harness from the tool box along the left side of the frame underneath the tank to the battery box. 



From there, it was easy to drop off the power cables to the battery box and then fish the cable along the right side fairing.  Once there, I dropped off the power cables to the right side of the fairing for the LED light relay, and routed underneath the C-14 relay holders to the left side of the fairing.  10 feet of cable is needed to make what is essentially an “S” shaped run from the left side fairing, to the battery box and back to the tool box FZ-1 location.

I drilled access holes for the cables, marked and drilled the screw holes for the FZ-1 board, and drilled a 1 ¼ inch hole for the dual USB plug. (The tool box is no longer worthless!)
Two future wires sets to the front are coiled up on e right side of the box.  There is enough room in the tool box to store spare fuses.  The photo also shows the 30 amp fuze assembly at the rear of the box that protects the entire FZ-1 circuit. 



Like I said before, the wiring on the bike was getting out of hand, and relied too much on the 5 amp accessory leads shared front and back.  Now, the only thing running off the accessory leads is the +12 volts needed for the FZ-1 relay.   The wiring is now perfect, all crimp connectors are gone in favor of soldered/heat shrink connections.  The fuses are now easy to access, dry, and multiple in line fuses scattered around the bike are eliminated.

Front USB plugs for the Tank Bag.  One USB plug is included in the Zumo 590 Harness.



Thanks for the advice on propping the tank, and I hope this helps someone with cable routing.  It definitely worked for me.


Silver 2011 C-14 and 2019 Versys 1000 SE LT+.  Previous rides: KZ-400, KZ-750, KZ-1000.  Keep the rubber side down.  Ride Fast......Live Slow......

Offline Sailor_chic

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Re: Lifting the Tank to Route Wires
« Reply #12 on: May 11, 2015, 12:48:46 pm »
Nice job!
Nicole     Port St Lucie, FL.
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Offline stevewfl

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Re: Lifting the Tank to Route Wires
« Reply #13 on: May 11, 2015, 12:54:03 pm »
+1, and excellent illustration!  :great:   :great:
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Offline SilverConnieRider

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Re: Lifting the Tank to Route Wires
« Reply #14 on: May 11, 2015, 06:41:32 pm »
OK - so a really dumb question.  :-[           Because you added the Fuze Block in the tool tray.

Do you not carry the tools that came with the bike OR do you put them in a different place?

Offline 4Bikes

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Re: Lifting the Tank to Route Wires
« Reply #15 on: May 11, 2015, 06:55:45 pm »
I carry them in a different place. The tools that came with the C-14 was a joke.  :rotflmao:  The only useful tool was the sparkplug removal tool, and they stopped including that tool with Gen 2's, or at least year 2011.  You also wouldn't normally be removing spark plugs on a road trip anyway.

I carry in the right saddle bag, a Slime Compressor, Patch Kit, a Lithium Jump Pack, spare fuses, and enough tools to remove the plastic and do some minor wrenching.  I used to carry the wheel removal tools, but figured at some point that a small ratchet wasn't going to budge the 94 Ft Lbs, so it was basically useless. If I can't patch it, and need to remove the wheel, that is why I have the AAA towing.   

My point with saying the tool box under the seat is worthless, is because there is not enough room to carry more than a few very small tools.  If you are going to travel longer distances and try to fix the most common things, you are going to have tools in a case anyway.

I feel like Mom on multi-bike trips because I pull out this stuff including spare gas for others.  The C-14 is so reliable, well, don't want to finish that sentence so as not to jinx.......
Silver 2011 C-14 and 2019 Versys 1000 SE LT+.  Previous rides: KZ-400, KZ-750, KZ-1000.  Keep the rubber side down.  Ride Fast......Live Slow......