Author Topic: Lights on the dash came on, but everything went blank with starter button push  (Read 719 times)

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Offline SVonhof

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Was going to ride in to work this morning, but the bike decided it didn't want to.

I rode in to work one day last week with no issues other than the front TPS battery being low.
Yesterday my wife and I rode to brunch and home with no problems.

This morning, pulled the bike out (2009 C14 with around 32k miles) of the garage and onto the driveway, got all geared up, hit the dash button to fire up the Kipass and the dash lit up as normal, kicked up the side-stand, put the bike in neutral and as soon as I hit the starter button, everything turned off and would not start up again.

I am guessing possible ground connections?

I quickly de-geared and got the bike back in the garage and drove the car in to work. Since I don't have my manual here, how many ground connections are there that I need to check?

Offline jwh20

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A relatively common problem is the GND (-) lead from the battery to where it connects to the frame.  Disconnect it, rough it up with some sandpaper to get all the corrosion off. It may look clean but Aluminum Oxide can be invisible.  I like to put a light coating of dielectric grease or conductive paste on it to prevent future issues, and re-connect.
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Offline mattchewn

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SVonhof,
Also check the connections to the battery. They can be loose, (probably) and that will also do this same thing. I can't tell you how many bikes I have serviced and found loose cables on.  While you are there clean the terminals with an abrasive like fine grit sandpaper or emory cloth.
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Offline SVonhof

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Will do on both. I put a new battery in maybe 2 years ago, so I know things were tight at the time, but that just means it had 2 years to loosen up.

Offline Dave_Wilton

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I had a ground issue right from the factory. Was getting intermittent FI light flashing. Took it to the dealer and the bike died in the dealer's parking lot. They spent several hours - under warranty - till they found the problem...the ground.
Dave

Offline smithr1

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It could be a ground issue but in my book you probably need a new battery.   I don't care how old it is or how you cared for it.  If it IS ground then you are lucky.  If it is battery all is normal.  Batteries fail, just like this.  You are lucky it started last week.
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Offline SVonhof

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Well, I checked the grounds around the battery and they were solid. I don't have any dielectric grease, but will pick some up this weekend.

I did pull the battery and it was sitting there with only 10.5v.  So, it's on the tender, getting some more juice. It has been on there since Monday afternoon, 3 full days, and the green light is still flashing. I will give it another day or so before buying a new battery. It's not like I am going to ride tomorrow or this weekend anyway with the rain and wind coming in to our area.

Offline Old Man on a Connie

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Hey Scott, Where ya at? Sure sounds like a bad batt. If you put it back in and can put a meter on it, watch the volts when you hit the starter. Sounds like it has a surface charge but can't take the load. Luck!
"I don't always ride street bikes, but when I do, It's a Concours. A C14 '11 silver to be precise." OTP 2017 We gonna dance! Danke Schoen

Offline SVonhof

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Hey Scott, Where ya at? Sure sounds like a bad batt. If you put it back in and can put a meter on it, watch the volts when you hit the starter. Sounds like it has a surface charge but can't take the load. Luck!
Very center of California. Manteca to be exact. You?

Yeah, could be dead, but I will give it more time before scheduling the funeral for it.
 ;D

Offline Old Man on a Connie

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Hey Scott, Where ya at? Sure sounds like a bad batt. If you put it back in and can put a meter on it, watch the volts when you hit the starter. Sounds like it has a surface charge but can't take the load. Luck!
Very center of California. Manteca to be exact. You?

Yeah, could be dead, but I will give it more time before scheduling the funeral for it.
 ;D
Henderson NV. You've got some great folks right around you though if ya need more help! Let us know and we can reach out.
"I don't always ride street bikes, but when I do, It's a Concours. A C14 '11 silver to be precise." OTP 2017 We gonna dance! Danke Schoen

Offline Dirtwiz

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If its been on the battery tender for three days and its still blinking green......feel free to arrange the funeral. You don't need to take a chance. Mine is at least 3 years old and goes solid green in less than 10 minutes.  ;D
In theory, practice and theory are the same. In practice, they aren't. Without data you are just another guy with an opinion.

Offline Jorge

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10.5V sounds like a a dead (shorted) cell. A dead cell may not give any warning whatsoever; fine one day, dead the next.
I suppose there is a distant possibility that shaking it will loosen things enough to open the short, but it will fail again, with no warning.
If it's original battery, be happy it lasted that long  :great:

Jorge

Offline SVonhof

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10.5V sounds like a a dead (shorted) cell. A dead cell may not give any warning whatsoever; fine one day, dead the next.
I suppose there is a distant possibility that shaking it will loosen things enough to open the short, but it will fail again, with no warning.
If it's original battery, be happy it lasted that long  :great:

Jorge

Interesting. I have never heard of that, but I don't pretend to know all about batteries either.

It is not original, it is the second battery.

Offline Daytona_Mike

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Sounds like another bad battery caused by an OPEN condition.  Sometimes the connections  inside  the defective battery  are good but as soon as you put a load on it the connection opens (lights go out). Then after a  while  the internal battery connection cools and reconnects and you have dash lights  again.
 I have seen this a few times myself and a more few times here on this forum.
Conductive paste would be a lot better than di-electric grease.  'di' means 'against' or to stop the flow of electricity.
« Last Edit: April 07, 2017, 12:57:59 am by Daytona_Mike »
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Offline jwh20

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Conductive paste would be a lot better than di-electric grease.  'di' means 'against' or to stop the flow of electricity.

Either is OK.  The purpose of the grease is to keep air out of the connection and prevent further oxidation of the materials in the connection.  If you note the products that are sold (or were sold) to coat connections when using Aluminum wiring, it is a clear non-conductive grease that keeps the environment out.  Same with the grease sold to prevent auto battery terminal corrosion.  Same stuff, it's just a high-temp stable grease.

A conductive paste will also work here though.  This is the stuff I usually use:

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05105-Technician-Electric-Compound/dp/B000CIRU6W

But this is also useful:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09128-Copper-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B000HBM8HU/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1491563946&sr=1-2&keywords=copper+grease
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Offline SVonhof

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Thanks guys. Still flashing green this morning.

Tonight, even if it's flashing green, I am going to put it in the bike (after measuring the voltage) and see what happens.

Offline jwh20

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Thanks guys. Still flashing green this morning.

Tonight, even if it's flashing green, I am going to put it in the bike (after measuring the voltage) and see what happens.

Your battery is probably bad.  A voltage reading of 10.5 is too low.  That indicates a dead cell.  If in doubt, take it to an auto parts store and have them do a load test on it.
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Offline Sailor Rich

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GYZ16H - YUAM716GH Yuasa, 16Ah and 240CCA $90 US

Offline SVonhof

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GYZ16H - YUAM716GH Yuasa, 16Ah and 240CCA $90 US
Are you selling one or is that on a web site somewhere?

Offline JTX

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GYZ16H - YUAM716GH Yuasa, 16Ah and 240CCA $90 US
Are you selling one or is that on a web site somewhere?


If that battery is more than 3 years old, replace it.


You are at a battery voltage where it may never recover and that may be why your battery tender can't top it off.


IMO replace it and be done with it.  It will likely leave you stranded.

Offline SVonhof

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10.7v, so it's done.

New one is on the way.

Offline Sailor Rich

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GYZ16H - YUAM716GH Yuasa, 16Ah and 240CCA $90 US
Are you selling one or is that on a web site somewhere?

Website just a tad stronger than the stock battery

Offline SVonhof

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All is well again. New battery came and I got it in (tried to shove it in there backwards first) and it fired up just fine! Tomorrow is Easter and no riding for me, plus it's supposed to start raining again tomorrow for the next few days...  :-[