Author Topic: Oil Mixture Question - Help  (Read 582 times)

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Offline Shredran

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Oil Mixture Question - Help
« on: July 27, 2018, 05:59:54 pm »
Hi COG members, I've done tons of oil changes on my bikes over the years, and two on my Connie thus far. I use full synthetic mobil 1 10w40 and love it. I'm about to change the oil and have a question:

If I wanted to use a brand new, unopened quart of AMS Oil FULL SYNTHETIC 10w40 and combine it with my Mobil 1, is that OK since they're both fun synthetic 10w40 mixtures? Asking just so I can get rid of the ams oil. I know combining oils isn't good in general, but just figure since they're the exact same mixtures it should be fine in this one case and then never again.

Let me know your thoughts.

Offline P07r0457

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Re: Oil Mixture Question - Help
« Reply #1 on: July 27, 2018, 07:32:40 pm »
It's less than ideal, imo, but you won't cause any harm.
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Offline Dirtwiz

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Re: Oil Mixture Question - Help
« Reply #2 on: July 27, 2018, 10:23:09 pm »
Good question. I used to mix Amsoil 10w40 with Amsoil 20w50 for summer use since I ride quite often in temps over 105*. Like maybe 1 or 2 quarts of 20w50. I asked the Amsoil rep and he said not a problem with the same brand but mixing brands could be not as good. I can't imagine it being measurable myself.
In theory, practice and theory are the same. In practice, they aren't. Without data you are just another guy with an opinion.

Offline Red Fox

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Re: Oil Mixture Question - Help
« Reply #3 on: July 28, 2018, 08:15:28 am »
If I wanted to use a brand new, unopened quart of AMS Oil FULL SYNTHETIC 10w40 and combine it with my Mobil 1, is that OK ...

I've mixed and matched oil for decades in both car and bike engines.  Never an oil related issue.  You can do this with confidence.
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Offline WillyP

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Re: Oil Mixture Question - Help
« Reply #4 on: July 28, 2018, 11:22:25 am »
This topic has come up in the past, and IIRC the conclusion was that mixing brands is ok with modern oils, it used to be an issue in the past. When I was in high school we were taught not to mix brands if we could avoid it, and NEVER mix a Texas brand with a Pennsylvania brand, as they use completely different, incompatible stock bases.
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Offline Shredran

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Re: Oil Mixture Question - Help
« Reply #5 on: July 28, 2018, 01:09:08 pm »
Thanks everyone

Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Oil Mixture Question - Help
« Reply #6 on: July 28, 2018, 07:44:27 pm »
This topic has come up in the past, and IIRC the conclusion was that mixing brands is ok with modern oils, it used to be an issue in the past. When I was in high school we were taught not to mix brands if we could avoid it, and NEVER mix a Texas brand with a Pennsylvania brand, as they use completely different, incompatible stock bases.


 :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao:

YEAH MAN..!!!!  :)) :)) :1rij: :campfire: :clap: :smiley_confused1:

everyone knows that the Dinosaurs that perished 65 Million years ago..in the Allegheny region were COMPLETELY different than the ones that croaked down there in Texas.... :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao:

just had to do that, sorry....

but in truth, I am always curious about the swap from Dino oil, to Full Synth, and as I'm currently doing the swap over for the first time, on this bike, I always wonder what effect the fact that when you drain, and refill with a new filter using 4.7 quarts of the new stuff... what happens when it mixes with the other 9 ounces. of the old Dino stuff still inside in the galleys,cooler,VVT, passages and hidden parts ? (fully dry engine, like just rebuilt, takes 5.0 quarts)
so basically the mix contains 6% dino oil...
I guess it shouldn't bother me, but as someone gave me 5 qts of the $$$$$
Castrol Power RS Racing 4T 100% Synthetic Oil, it knda goes against my COGFRUGALITY.. :nananana: :rotflmao:

ahhh I'll just pour it in...and run it 10k miles. :))
 >:( :confuse: :hum: :smiley_confused1: :41: :confuse:
« Last Edit: July 28, 2018, 08:16:54 pm by MAN OF BLUES »

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Offline Bob

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Re: Oil Mixture Question - Help
« Reply #7 on: July 28, 2018, 11:48:49 pm »
In my humble opinion, the most common point of mixing different brands of oil is not in the oil itself but the additives. Company A may use a friction modifier which is not compatible with the friction modifier used by company B.
 This in turn could cause a space/time conflict requiring a valve adjustment every oil change and prove global warming is real. :rotflmao:

Offline Red Fox

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Re: Oil Mixture Question - Help
« Reply #8 on: July 29, 2018, 01:38:02 am »

YEAH MAN..!!!!  :)) :)) :1rij: :campfire: :clap: :smiley_confused1:

everyone knows that the Dinosaurs that perished 65 Million years ago..in the Allegheny region were COMPLETELY different than the ones that croaked down there in Texas.... :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao:

just had to do that, sorry....

Detail.  Nobody understands why to my knowledge, but Pennsylvania oil fields apparently have paraffin (wax) based oils, whereas all the other fields in the entire world contain the normal stuff as the base stock (might be termed aliphatic).  Based on observation when younger, air cooled VW Bug engine, I stopped using Quaker State and swore off Pennsylvania grade oils for my future personal use.  There's a difference, whether it matters to someone is their issue or non-issue.   Pennzoil used to advertise itself as the "most Asked for Motor Oil," but they stopped that decades ago when mechanics (apparently) began avoiding that oil.
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Offline d04011

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Re: Oil Mixture Question - Help
« Reply #9 on: July 29, 2018, 12:06:41 pm »
Back in the day I bought a brand new 240Z and I had to add a quart of oil about every 1,000 miles.  Mechanic found out I was using Quaker State and told me that was the reason.  Switched to another major oil brand (Castrol?) and it never needed oil added between oil changes again.
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Offline Phil

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Re: Oil Mixture Question - Help
« Reply #10 on: July 30, 2018, 04:24:11 pm »

YEAH MAN..!!!!  :)) :)) :1rij: :campfire: :clap: :smiley_confused1:

everyone knows that the Dinosaurs that perished 65 Million years ago..in the Allegheny region were COMPLETELY different than the ones that croaked down there in Texas.... :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao:

just had to do that, sorry....

Detail.  Nobody understands why to my knowledge, but Pennsylvania oil fields apparently have paraffin (wax) based oils, whereas all the other fields in the entire world contain the normal stuff as the base stock (might be termed aliphatic).  Based on observation when younger, air cooled VW Bug engine, I stopped using Quaker State and swore off Pennsylvania grade oils for my future personal use.  There's a difference, whether it matters to someone is their issue or non-issue.   Pennzoil used to advertise itself as the "most Asked for Motor Oil," but they stopped that decades ago when mechanics (apparently) began avoiding that oil.

This from CITGO: Myth: Paraffinic base oils can cause wax buildup and sludge.
Fact: Not true. All high quality petroleum motor oils are made from paraffinic base oils. In spite of its name, “paraffin” does not mean candle wax. The stability of paraffin molecules makes paraffinic base oils more resistant to the chemical changes that can take place in an engine than other types of base oils. That means less sludge, varnish and corrosive wear with a high quality paraffinic base motor oil."

https://www.citgo.com/ConsumerProducts/Oils/EngineOilMyths.jsp

The old issues with Quaker State oil is just that, old. If you are using a time machine to buy your oil cheaper in the '50s, then yeah, you should probably stay away from Quaker State, but if you don't have a time machine, and have to buy it today, there is nothing wrong with it, nor is it so different that you could not mix it with another oil.

Offline RoadKillHeaven

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Re: Oil Mixture Question - Help
« Reply #11 on: July 31, 2018, 10:43:16 am »
Just my tuppence worth of experience with dino vs synth oils.
Few years ago I had a Triumph Trophy 900 (square headlight). It specifically required at least semi-synth oil filled. I always fed it 5W40 T6 oil. One time I decided to experiment and bought dino oil to see what would happen is I used it.
Hinckley engines, the famous triples were never quiet. At idle it sounded like a well muffled diesel tractor. Pulled like one, I can attest.
Upon switching to dino oil. I'd noticed rougher running engine, unwillingness to build revs and after 30-45 min - according to temp gauge - it was running hotter. The benefit of experimenting with dino oil was it had revealed compromised pick up coil which promptly begun to fail bathing in mineral oil(hotter temps contributed to its demise). Pick up coil failure had stranded me few miles away fro  home. I'd had to wait until engine cooled down before I was able to make it home.
When some one asks me about which brand of oil to use. I usually reply it all depends which brand of bottled water you prefer!
I use T6 because it is by far the least expensive JASO MA certified oil.
P.S  As long as you don't mix energy conserving oil with JASO MA oil, you'd be fine.

Cheers...   
 
   
« Last Edit: July 31, 2018, 10:55:08 am by RoadKillHeaven »

Offline Colt45

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Re: Oil Mixture Question - Help
« Reply #12 on: August 01, 2018, 04:35:06 pm »
I would NOT mix oil brands unless stranded and had nothing else because of the possibility of incompatible additives. 

However, in a jam, enough oil is always better than not enough.  If I got a hole in my oil filter and needed oil, any filter and any oil, until I could do better, would go in. 
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