Author Topic: Removing Plastic  (Read 579 times)

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Offline Tundra

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Removing Plastic
« on: December 28, 2018, 01:18:26 pm »
2012 Concours1400, 4500 miles. I have a valve cover gasket leak as well as cam sensor o-ring leak. How long should this job take me? I have not removed the plastics before. Looks to be a PITA?

Offline bajasam

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Re: Removing Plastic
« Reply #1 on: December 28, 2018, 04:40:15 pm »
your first time might be 6-7 hours, the next time 2-3 hours when you know the ins an outs.

Offline TimR

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Re: Removing Plastic
« Reply #2 on: December 28, 2018, 07:41:36 pm »
Like Ray said one can deal with the fairing a little better as experience is gained. Just be attentive and not break any tabs. I would also suggest having a few well nuts and screws on hand for replacements.  Murph's Kits has well nuts at a fair price. Good luck, Tim
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Offline Tundra

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Re: Removing Plastic
« Reply #3 on: December 28, 2018, 09:08:07 pm »
Thanks for the info. and appreciate the heads up on the spare fasteners/hardware :great:
I had several quotes and all were over $700.00 (I think not) That's some serious accessories money. Dealer I purchased it from won't respond to my calls.

Offline Motor Psycho

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Re: Removing Plastic
« Reply #4 on: December 28, 2018, 10:06:57 pm »
I think it helps if the plastics are warm and able to move a little.

Offline gpd323

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Re: Removing Plastic
« Reply #5 on: December 28, 2018, 10:40:12 pm »
It can't take 6+ hours to remove the plastics! Thats insane. I do however have Freds video on DVD s so that may help. But next year it will be my turn to remove mine for the valve check. I'll be buying Murphs kit with all the gaskets and plugs and trailer my bike naked to the shop.  :beerchug:
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Online MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Removing Plastic
« Reply #6 on: December 28, 2018, 10:44:39 pm »
Thanks for the info. and appreciate the heads up on the spare fasteners/hardware :great:
I had several quotes and all were over $700.00 (I think not) That's some serious accessories money. Dealer I purchased it from won't respond to my calls.

4500 miles the valve cover shouldn't be leaking..unless it was removed once, and never resealed correctly...

The cam sensor, is more "time related" than mile related, as the oil sits in a 'well' with a slight pool of oil behind it... but that is wayyy below the parting line between the cover and head.

If you have the bike up in the air on a lift, it's about 5+ hours for a "first timer", but doing this on the floor running back and forth for tools, is really a pain, and can add 2 hours to that time.  These times are not just related to the plastic, but the job at hand...

my time slot for removing plastics to access the cam sensor for an o-ring replace, when the bike is on the lift, is less than 1 hour.

Most Kaw dealers set the complete valve inspection/adjust based on a flat rate, and the general consensus on cost averages about $600 complete, so $700 just for cover gasket and sensor o-ring is a bit outrageous..
I would hound the dealership really repeatedly, and make it known you aren't happy,
They probably know/realize the job at hand is a flat rate job, dictated by Kaw, and is only about a $400 max allowed by the book.

and so you aren't alarmed, there is a bit more to this than simple plastic removal, for the valve cover... some internal frame braces are also removed, and tipping the radiator forward also helps access. Add in removing the coils, and disconnecting all the various sensor harness' and connectors, and it becomes a bit of a pain.

best of luck on this tho, and make sure to take periodic pictures during dis assembly, as they help when putting it back together.
« Last Edit: December 28, 2018, 10:50:06 pm by MAN OF BLUES »

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Offline gpd323

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Re: Removing Plastic
« Reply #7 on: December 28, 2018, 11:02:43 pm »
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Yikes!!!! :beerchug:
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Offline gpd323

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Re: Removing Plastic
« Reply #8 on: December 28, 2018, 11:25:04 pm »
But only the side/top plastics have to come off, not the very bottom black pieces or leading edge pieces to get access to the head? Just the intermediate ones?  :beerchug:

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Online MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Removing Plastic
« Reply #9 on: December 29, 2018, 12:21:27 am »
But only the side/top plastics have to come off, not the very bottom black pieces or leading edge pieces to get access to the head? Just the intermediate ones?  :beerchug:

if you examine closely the interconnections between them, you will find that pretty much it all comes off... things you don't think needed to be removed, do need to be removed, to get access to fasteners below, and inside.

don't kid yourself, more comes off than "meets the eye"...
 :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao:

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Offline gpd323

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Re: Removing Plastic
« Reply #10 on: December 29, 2018, 01:38:07 am »
Ok thanks, when it comes time I will find out the truth, and I suppose it will be more that meets the eye.
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Offline C. Moore

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Re: Removing Plastic
« Reply #11 on: December 29, 2018, 10:56:49 am »
OK, this thread went a little beyond removing the plastic so I'll comment on the O-ring and valve adjust. On my '10 the leak, not surprisingly, was coming from the exhaust cam sensor o-ring. I lived with the leak until I did the valve adjust at about 26K. It's an involved job so do some research before you dive in. Kawa says do the valve adjust at 15K but many wait well beyond that. I've read about some higher mileage C14's that have never had the valves adjusted. I don't recommend not adjusting them but then again I've yet to read about a failure due to tight valves. Good luck.
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Offline Finesse

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Re: Removing Plastic
« Reply #12 on: January 02, 2019, 06:07:43 pm »
OK, this thread went a little beyond removing the plastic so I'll comment on the O-ring and valve adjust. On my '10 the leak, not surprisingly, was coming from the exhaust cam sensor o-ring. I lived with the leak until I did the valve adjust at about 26K. It's an involved job so do some research before you dive in. Kawa says do the valve adjust at 15K but many wait well beyond that. I've read about some higher mileage C14's that have never had the valves adjusted. I don't recommend not adjusting them but then again I've yet to read about a failure due to tight valves. Good luck.

I would put it off until valve check. Also, depending upon the severity of the leaks, first try High Mileage Mobil One oil at your next change. I found my cam sensor stopped leaking afterwards. It has a seal conditioner. The amount of time to remove the plastics varies a great deal. Depending upon carefully labeling and laying out the parts and fasteners. Some guys speed thru it and just throw all the fasteners into one can, hope they fit wherever they end up. There are alternate placements through the maze for some of the wires and lines. I like to put mine back correctly as I have had major fubars on other bikes when just making it work. Like melted wiring harnesses and one time I thought my Yamaha suddenly had a siren, but it turned out to be the wiring harness against the cooling fan.

Online strum

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Re: Removing Plastic
« Reply #13 on: January 02, 2019, 09:19:00 pm »
  When I got my 08 the valve cover was leaking but I thought it was the cam sensor o-ring.
 Took me about 3 hours from start to finish to change that o-ring. I didn't tackle the valve cover but from that point im sure to change it would add another hour,maybe two, at least to the job . You have to factor in cleaning the cover and mating surfaces.
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