Author Topic: Shifting difficulties with my 2011 C 14 (Read 15109 times)

Daytona_Mike · « **Reply #25 on:** October 31, 2013, 07:13:27 am »

Just a little Wing bashing here which is not true. Wings are not old people bikes, they have their place and they are great bikes. I have ridden quite a few and one thing I know, they do handle well, really well and none of them shift as smooth or as easy Connies. You put the right person on a GW and they will surprise you and most likely out run you on the twistiest of roads.

Matt · « **Reply #26 on:** November 12, 2013, 11:40:26 pm »

Hello all. I picked up my new black 2013 C14 last Thursday and I'm really loving the smoothness, great handling, and power of this bike. After putting about 300 miles on her this weekend I started to feel exactly what the O.P. described, shifter not returning right away every time. I didn't think much of it at first, but after it happening more frequently today, I know something isn't quite right. I have owned many bikes and am an experienced rider. I have never felt this issue on any other bikes that I have owned or ridden. Wingman, did you ever find a resolution to your problem? Is anyone else experiencing this problem? I guess I am hoping for an easy resolution. I will try to adjust the shift rod as a few of you have suggested and if that doesn't work I guess off to the dealer. UUGH..... Thanks for your input.

Arabian Red · « **Reply #27 on:** November 13, 2013, 01:10:56 am »

I had similar issues with the shifting on my 2012 connie and fixed it by shifting between 4 and 5000 and it really helped. I was shifting too low on the rpms so the engine had a chance to settle down at my shift points and the speed differential made for some jerky shifts. Higher rpms is the fix.

Matt · « **Reply #28 on:** November 13, 2013, 03:55:28 am »

Quote from: Arabian Red on November 13, 2013, 01:10:56 am

I had similar issues with the shifting on my 2012 connie and fixed it by shifting between 4 and 5000 and it really helped. I was shifting too low on the rpms so the engine had a chance to settle down at my shift points and the speed differential made for some jerky shifts. Higher rpms is the fix.

Yeah, I agree with you on the higher rpm"s. Im not having issues shifting into gear though. Its after shifting, the lever is sticking and not returning right away. Hopefully I just need to put a few more miles on her and change the oil.

ddtmoto · « **Reply #29 on:** November 13, 2013, 02:42:47 pm »

Bikes have adjustable levers, cables, shifters and brake linkages so riders can make the bike fit them. I try to always wear the same boots when I ride. Makes a big difference in shifting with thicker or thinner toe areas and heal/insole shapes. Bleed your clutch, use a name brand high end DOT4 brake fluid. Blip the throttle when changing gears rather than shut it off and roll back on. I run zero slack in all my throttle cables. Shifting above 4500rpm really makes a difference. Use a 'good shifting oil'. Not all synthetics allow the sweet shifting I want. The epa seems to be almost yearly reducing amounts of zinc and phos is motor oils. My bikes shift way better with oils that have over 1400ppm amounts of zinc and phos. than more common oils that have a more typical amount around the 900 to 1200ppm. I try as many different oils as I can to find the best shifting with in required specs for bikes. A good oil is like icing on the cake. Adjusting the bike's controls to fit the rider and no air in the clutch system is the foundation to a good as possible constantly good shifting experience...enjoy

sockmonkey · « **Reply #30 on:** November 14, 2013, 06:22:56 am »

My 2013 with 3000 miles has the same problem, when cold it shifts nice, but after it is hot, the shifter does not follow my foot. everthing as been adjusted, or look at. Running Red Line oil. A friend that also has a C14 rode it and he agrees with me. No help from the stealership, so I ordered a new shift shaft, and a Factory Pro shift kit. I'm going to put it in next week. Along with a full Area P system and a Guhl reflashed ecu.

Matt · « **Reply #31 on:** November 15, 2013, 01:06:14 am »

Mine is also sticking when hot. I figured it was something not normal and more than just a simple adjustment. I was hoping I would find an easy fix. The troubleshooting section of the service manual shows the possible issues to be internal. Return spring, shift fork, etc. I cant believe the dealer is not willing to do the repair for you.. I will put a few more miles on mine and see what happens. Then I guess I'm off to the dealer. Please post up after you finish the repair to yours.

KnoxSwift · « **Reply #32 on:** November 15, 2013, 02:45:15 am »

I have a thread on here that my 2013 stopped shifting after 300 miles on the bike. It also got stuck in 5th gear. Eventually, I had to take it in to the dealer as no adjustments made this better. The dealer did have to repair something internal. I can't remember what it was now but it was under warranty.

good luck.

Matt · « **Reply #33 on:** November 15, 2013, 04:11:48 pm »

Knoxswift, I did read your thread. Something like that happening to mine is what I am concerned about. I plan on doing a couple of trips and definetly want to have this problem sorted before I do. Well, for now I am still hopefully that it is something minor.

I should also say that I love this bike so far. Loving the smooth power and great handling.

smokinzx14 · « **Reply #34 on:** November 27, 2013, 11:17:17 pm »

Mine has the same problem .. Low speeds and low RPM shifts the shift lever sticks . No problem up shifting , this just happens down shifting .. You can feel it stick and when it comes unstuck I can feel it hit my foot . It's like it has a 1 or 2 second delay ...Doesn't happen at higher RPMs.. Works fine at the drag strip ..lol

In fact speed shifting the C14 is much nicer and easier than speed shifting my ZX14R ..It's just down shifting that seems to be a problem and only when just riding easly around town ..

Matt · « **Reply #35 on:** November 27, 2013, 11:52:02 pm »

Smokinzx14, mine was doing exactly what you described.
I am happy to say that my lever stopped sticking right after my first oil change. I had read that a few others also stopped sticking after an oil change but I was skeptical that it would make a difference.
I have ridden about 800 miles since the oil change and so far so good. I will post up if the sticking lever returns.

nando · « **Reply #36 on:** November 29, 2013, 03:15:20 am »

To the Wing Owner basher:

here is looking at you kid. I had a Wing for many year and then came to the wonderful world of Connie...I don't remember sticking my foot OUT of the grave on this move, if fact, I sense I continue to stick it the grave as the days go by--even though I am on a C14

To the guy who recommends not shifting like you are going to the grocery store: Hey watch it there buddy, I go to buy groceries all the time on my C14.

To the guy who recommends shifting at 4 or 5k RPM: dude! you must live in the Tundras or Florida. If I do 5k RPM on any gear where I live I be riding over cars like a monster truck while I am on my way to work.

And I join those who don't like how the Connie shift. I tried everything (sensible) recommended thing to do, and still the worse shifting bike I ever owned.

Texmech · « **Reply #37 on:** November 29, 2013, 06:24:29 am »

When I first purchased(used), my 08 C14-I couldn't believe how awful that bike shifted. I'd never owned a bike that required such a deliberate, concentrated effort to get to the next gear.
Well...after experimenting with shift lever adjustments, assuring good fluid in clutch perch(yes, thoroughly bled-vacd), all that I could think of... I finally realized, it is what it is....

This bike does NOT like to be short shifted(which I tend to do- unless feeling frisky). The faster you shift this unit-the more willing/happier it is to snick next gear. Yep, check throttle cable adj, DO run expensive high end full syn oil. Just go with it.

And I agree...it's the worst shifting bike I've ever owned. But it sure is a handsome ST scoot and it's fast!
But Kawa should've done better. Newer bikes any slicker shifting?

sockmonkey · « **Reply #38 on:** November 29, 2013, 07:02:57 am »

Well. I put in the new shift shaft and the Factory Pro shift kit, and I now have a wonderfull shifting C14. The shift shaft had wear marks at both ends as if the shaft had a slight bend in it. Also the shift mechanism arm did not slide smoothly. I think that the pin that holds the two half together was pressed into far,on the new shaft it was not pressed in as far. The Factory Pro shift kit works like advertised and I'm glade I put it in. Also put on the Area P system and the Guhl reflashed ecu, wow, now I have a C14 that rocks.

CW · « **Reply #39 on:** November 29, 2013, 01:43:17 pm »

I find that mine shifts amazingly more easily, on upshifts, if I do not completely close the throttle.

2010 with 14,000 miles.

mattchewn · « **Reply #40 on:** November 29, 2013, 02:33:21 pm »

I can only assume that those of you that have shifting trouble with a C14 have a internal problem or something. This is by far the best, smoothest, easiest shifting bike I have ever ridden. It did take me a bit to adjust to it though. I tried many things to get a simple smooth shift before I got it down pat. Clutchless shifting is almost effortless, so quick and smooth. I will say that this tranny requires a slightly different technique than others to shift so wonderfully. Closing the throttle completely will NOT help good shift. I do a quick "snap" of the throttle for shifting up or down and I have absolutely no problems.
Matt

Daytona_Mike · « **Reply #41 on:** November 29, 2013, 06:37:12 pm »

Quote from: mattchewn on November 29, 2013, 02:33:21 pm

I can only assume that those of you that have shifting trouble with a C14 have a internal problem or something. This is by far the best, smoothest, easiest shifting bike I have ever ridden. It did take me a bit to adjust to it though. I tried many things to get a simple smooth shift before I got it down pat. Clutchless shifting is almost effortless, so quick and smooth. I will say that this tranny requires a slightly different technique than others to shift so wonderfully. Closing the throttle completely will NOT help good shift. I do a quick "snap" of the throttle for shifting up or down and I have absolutely no problems.
Matt

+1 Exactly. These bikes are as smooth a silk and shift extremely well clutch-less. I really noticed how much better it is now that I run Motul 5100. Maybe you could try it at least once.

WingCon · « **Reply #42 on:** November 30, 2013, 08:20:55 pm »

So only bikes made for old guys (I'm 58, and my father is 86 and we both ride often and aggressively, albeit on our side of the double yellow lines! See video above.) should be built to shift properly??
My 2003 GL1800 - even after putting Dunlops on my 2011 C14 - still handles better than my Connie.

I also find that neutral is continually hard to find. Very annoying. I shouldn't have to buy expensive synthetic oil to get it to work properly, assuming that would fix the problem.

Use caution "young ones", your years will slip by, and at our ages your riding days might be long behind you. "R E S P E C T. Tell me what you mean to me"

LakeTrax · « **Reply #43 on:** November 30, 2013, 08:45:57 pm »

Quote from: WingCon on November 30, 2013, 08:20:55 pm

My 2003 GL1800 - even after putting Dunlops on my 2011 C14 - still handles better than my Connie.

Some loaded comments there WingCon... and this above statement is purely subjective.
I have access to both a C14 & a GL1800. They both have their own individual merits, but to say the GL handles BETTER? In what regard? The mighty GL can indeed pull off some maneuvers that no 800+lb. motorcycle has any right to, but there is no way(IMO) that its handling abilities exceed that of a C14.
I think you need to play around with the preload/suspension adjusters on your C14 and report back.
And yes, I respect my elders-

nando · « **Reply #44 on:** November 30, 2013, 11:36:58 pm »

Forums threads that comprise of the personality syndrome I candidly call: Alter-ego-emotional-attachment-to-a-motorcycle usually turn into useless subjectivity. Or worse sometimes, insults.

In my opinion, the C14 is a rather heavy handling beast compared to other bikes of its type. My RT was a much better handling bike. The Triumph Trophy shifts a lot better than the Kawi C, so does the Wing.

There is no doubt that several owners (including myself) have complained about the rough shifting and neutral finding.

I doubt that all who have raised the issue are rider novice. I for one, got more miles under my butt than most youngsters on this board have hairs on their heads, including two LE emergency vehicles schools and professional tanker truck experience. When I tell you my bike shifts roughly, even the Pope won't be able to shift it smoother than I...and I understand he is infallible.

All the things recommended here help: Synthetic oil, clutch bleed and learning to find that sweet spot at different torque ranges. Sometimes my bike shift worse when its really hot. When I am in traffic I been using the Econ mode because it seems like the lesser fuel input helps to avoid the jerking between 1st and 2nd shift at low RPM.

Now I am struggling to eliminate the vibration on the handlebars which has come back after a Throttle body and valve adjustment, and engine mount bolt torque.

Daytona_Mike · « **Reply #45 on:** December 01, 2013, 04:27:47 am »

Quote from: LakeTrax on November 30, 2013, 08:45:57 pm

Quote from: WingCon on November 30, 2013, 08:20:55 pm
My 2003 GL1800 - even after putting Dunlops on my 2011 C14 - still handles better than my Connie.

Some loaded comments there WingCon... and this above statement is purely subjective.
I have access to both a C14 & a GL1800. They both have their own individual merits, but to say the GL handles BETTER? In what regard? The mighty GL can indeed pull off some maneuvers that no 800+lb. motorcycle has any right to, but there is no way(IMO) that its handling abilities exceed that of a C14.
I think you need to play around with the preload/suspension adjusters on your C14 and report back.
And yes, I respect my elders-

Dunlops? $:-\$ You need to buy some real tires for that Concours. PR3 would be one good choice.
Obviously your more comfortable therefore you think the GW handles better. Once you need to get used to the Concours and when you do you will know how much better it handles over the GW.

nando · « **Reply #46 on:** December 01, 2013, 04:33:19 am »

The worse tires on planet Earth are Dunlops on a Wing off the floor. I can't remember the exact model, but I do remember every single Windinger took them off shortly after buying the bike. Mine slipped like if they were made out of wood.
Definitely an exaggeration there with those Dunnies

Grumpy Goat · « **Reply #47 on:** December 01, 2013, 07:17:07 am »

Kawasaki's positive neutral finder - you can't shift from 1st to 2nd unless you're moving- almost earned me a CDA recently. I shifted halfway around a U turn and she only went as far as neutral. I've had no other problems with a sticky gearchange on my 2008 model (45000km and counting), but it's perhaps worth noting not to change up from 1st at sub-walking pace.

Wingman · « **Reply #48 on:** March 05, 2014, 12:34:56 pm »

It's been a while since I are visited this thread that I started. Probably the best advice that I received was to "shift like I mean it".

What seems to work best is to accelerate briskly, lightly (and I mean no more than a half-inch) feather the clutch while snapping the throttle off and back on simultaneously. It's all a coordination and timing thing when I do this my shifts are butter smooth and fast.

I can't recall who it was but the gist was not to do slow deliberate shifts and this is spot on.

MikeB · « **Reply #49 on:** March 06, 2014, 03:34:44 pm »

Has nothing to do with it being a Wing and more to do with being a Honda. My 06' Honda CBR1000RR shifts smoother than my 11' C14...and I ride them both like I stole 'em.