Author Topic: Spark plug change on a C-14 - what has to come off? And what doesn't?  (Read 1595 times)

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Offline alamodoc

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I have a C-14 with 40K miles. Bought it used, so I have no idea when or if the plugs were changed. From reading other posts, it looks like it's not a big deal to let these plugs go well beyond the recommended 7500 miles, but now looks like a good time to do the change. I bought the plugs and would like to save the 3 hours of labor they're quoting. Trouble is, I don't have a shop manual. I've pulled off the superficial trim but have not yet figured out how far one needs to go. Does the gas tank come off? Is there something in the order of disassembly I should look out for? Thanks in advance.

Offline Jeremy

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Tank does not need to come off, you will gain no extra room by doing so.  Do you know when the last time the valve clearance was checked?  That is when I have changed my plugs both times at 25,000 and 41,000 miles (previous owner had the valves checked at 15,000). 

There are several brackets and wiring harnesses that you will need to remove/reposition once you get the plastic off.  It can be a pain the first time but after that it isn't so bad.  I have had my bike torn apart three separate times and it is something that I can do in about an hour and a half now.
Kick the tires and light the fires

Offline Mad River Marc

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You should get a manual, it's not difficult but it is involved.

Basically its as follows:

Remove left and right side fairing panels
Remove foam brackets that are for heat control
Remove left and right frame braces
Remove left and right upper fairing stays
Disconnect wiring leading to fuel injectors and remove that harness
Remove air suction valve
Unplug stick coils (and remove harness going to them)
Remove stick coils
Change plugs
Put it all back together

Takes me about 2.5 to pull it all apart


Ps, as long as you are already in there, it's a REALLY good time to gap the valves.... Juss sayin
You only need two tools in life – WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn’t move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn’t move and does, use the duct tape.

Offline alamodoc

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And without the ol' shop manual, nor having checked the valve clearance on this thing before, are we making an argument for me to bite the bullet and have the dealer$hip do it? Or is checking the valves pretty simple once things are torn down to this level? Any special tools needed?

Offline Mad River Marc

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I am just saying that they should be checked regardless of who does it.

If you have ever checked Valves before on other engines it's not bad, if you haven't I'd strongly recommend you either find someone who has and have them help you or have the dealer do it.  It's not difficult to do,  Checking is easy and anyone with half a brain IMHO can do it...but if you have to reset clearances on the valves then its time to ask yourself how well you trust your mechanical skills because you have to remove the camshafts to change the shims, and when reinstalling the Camshafts it's easy to mistime the motor (Resulting in bent valves..aka BAD..)   


It's not hard to do, but it's best to either be shown, or have someone else do it...Just my 0.02
You only need two tools in life – WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn’t move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn’t move and does, use the duct tape.