T.S. Moly anyone ??

[Oregonrider]

..Has anyone ever tried a product by T.S. Moly   http://www.tsmoly.com/  ?   

[BDF]

Some people use that instead of Honda Moly Paste 60- it should work at least as well. A great advantage to this product though would be the brush in the top of the can as the Honda stuff is hard to use because of the grease gun tube that it comes in.

By the way, they have a great price on (6) 4- lb. cans of the stuff at $1,014.95 although shipping might be expensive. 

Brian

..Has anyone ever tried a product by T.S. Moly   http://www.tsmoly.com/  ?   

[rcannon409]

You can usually tell what your getting by the price.  The TS Moly, 70%, is great.  Its too expensive, for me, to use very often the motorcycle though, and its really not necessary as the Honda stuff works fine  I use it in my spring piston powered airgun.  The high powered, spring piston powered airguns need to be lubed, obviously, btu generate huge amounts of heat when the air in front of the piston gets compressed.  If you lube with cheap moly lube, they are mostly made of carrier agents than BURN! This causes your pellets to go supersonic and makes a hell of a loud bang, and damages things.   

The TS lube wont burn and works really, really well. 

[Fred_Harmon_TX]

If you really want to go all out on your splines, buy some Krytox grease. It's probably the single best grease made, but it costs about $30 for half an ounce.

http://www2.dupont.com/Lubricants/en_US/products/Products_Greases.html

[Necron99]

I add their Guard Dog moly to my gear oil.

[S Smith]

Some people use that instead of Honda Moly Paste 60- it should work at least as well. A great advantage to this product though would be the brush in the top of the can as the Honda stuff is hard to use because of the grease gun tube that it comes in.

By the way, they have a great price on (6) 4- lb. cans of the stuff at $1,014.95 although shipping might be expensive. 

It might be a deal, but the 4-lb cans do not come with the handy brush in the top of the can you pointed out.

[Oregonrider]

...They make a crankcase additive as well...Anyone heard of this?        Is it ok with an oil bathed clutch???   ???

[BDF]

No, in fact we are supposed to avoid moly disulfide (the 'moly' in moly based lubes) in the crankcase of anything that uses a wet clutch.

The two basic family of contact lubricants used in motor oil are moly and zinc in the form ZDDP, and ZDDP is what is typically used in motorcycles with wet clutches although the amount of that is being reduced also. Still, ZDDP does not cause any known hard to the clutch plates in a wet clutch application while moly supposedly 'might' cause some slippage.

Brian

...They make a crankcase additive as well...Anyone heard of this?        Is it ok with an oil bathed clutch???   ???

[BDF]

True but if you did possess 24 lbs. of the stuff (!), you could afford to be a little freer with it.... I am thinking 'trowel' here instead of Q-tip or acid brush. I mean if two drops is enough to lube the splines on a final drive, imagine how fantastic a pound or two would be? Plus you would have maybe $50 worth of molybdenum disulfide slung inside your rear wheel to trade for gasoline, beaver pelts, bottled oxygen or anything else an intrepid Concours rider might need.

Brian

It might be a deal, but the 4-lb cans do not come with the handy brush in the top of the can you pointed out.

[Oregonrider]

    SOOooo, Brian, you are an advocate of putting Moly in the crankcase?   I did this with both my ST1100 and Valkyrie in the past ... not know I was NOT supposed to do so...and had no problems with either maching as far as clutch slippage is conserned..      

[BDF]

I really do not have an opinion either way, and no first- hand experience, at least as far as I know. I am just mentioning the often stated 'rule' that MoSO2 and wet clutches do not get along, at least according to ledged.

Then again, there probably isn't really enough moly in moly fortified oil to do either much good or much damage to the internals of any I.C. engine. Putting enough dry moly in the crankcase would cost enough that most folks just would not do that either.

Brian

   SOOooo, Brian, you are an advocate of putting Moly in the crankcase?   I did this with both my ST1100 and Valkyrie in the past ... not know I was NOT supposed to do so...and had no problems with either maching as far as clutch slippage is conserned..    

[wayne_jenkins_CT]

For some reason I though that "Moly" was a solid I seem to remember getting it as a power and less than the price of gold too. That being the case add all you want to the engine oil and the filter will take it out! I have been adding Belly button lint that I collect at the local strip club to my oil, the only problem with that is the forks want to straighten out. Is there any thing else you all want to ask me?Oh, sometimes I need help with the collection, Capt Bob, BDF, do you want to help?

[Oregonrider]

If in fact the oil filter removes all the moly from TS Moly oil add...then you should inform the good people in Houston TX... Evidently they have found a way to reduce the product down to microscopic if not molecular size...  mmMMmm....

[Fred_Harmon_TX]

I have seen bikes have problems with the sprag clutch on the starter not working properly after "Energy Conserving" automotive oils with "Friction Modifiers" were used in them. Molybdenum is one on the main modifiers in these oils, so it is highly suspect as being the cause.

[BDF]

Yeah, I used to use it to resize the necks of rifle cases when reloading. It was expensive then too but now it is pretty prohibitive in cost, at least beyond an ounce or two.

Some would get caught in the oil filter but when sold as a lube the stuff is so fine that nothing that could filter anything as viscous as motor oil could strain out the moly.

One last thought- dry moly lube has made a mark in the high performance coatings market as a cheap but effective coating. In my experience it performs poorly when compared with everything else available; it is often claimed that heating the surface 'deposits' the moly into the pores of metal but if so, it still does not work very well.

In the very specific use of linear splines it has merit though as it is almost impossible for fretting metal surfaces to squeeze the stuff out. But as an additive to petroleum oil, I rate it up there with Teflon (as in Slick 50) which is another expensive material that just does not work in that application.

Brian

For some reason I though that "Moly" was a solid I seem to remember getting it as a power and less than the price of gold too. That being the case add all you want to the engine oil and the filter will take it out! I have been adding Belly button lint that I collect at the local strip club to my oil, the only problem with that is the forks want to straighten out. Is there any thing else you all want to ask me?Oh, sometimes I need help with the collection, Capt Bob, BDF, do you want to help?

[rcannon409]

I have seen bikes have problems with the sprag clutch on the starter not working properly after "Energy Conserving" automotive oils with "Friction Modifiers" were used in them. Molybdenum is one on the main modifiers in these oils, so it is highly suspect as being the cause.

Fred, remember back years ago, there was a company called Kal-Gard?  Actually, they are still around.  Anyway, the magazines REALLY pushed the "Engine Guard" product.  Do you happen to know how much moly was in it, or what the deal really was with it?  No idea of this is the same, but it looked like this:  http://www.kalgard.com/products/products.asp?cat=15

I remember dumping the stuff in and having to remove the side case to clean the moly off of the sight glass.  It did make for some nice shifting, though.

[BDF]

Yeah, that is what a contact lubricant does for you- smooth shifting. The other contact lube used in motor oil is ZDDP and it also really makes shifting slick. It is a standard additive in all motor oils but the percentage is going down due to EPA regulations. It is the reduced ZDDP content in reformulated Rotella 5W-40 that I believe is causing the new type oil to cause clunky shifting. And ZDDP does not have any adverse effects on a wet clutch.

If you poke around, you can still find relatively high ZDDP content in some oils, mostly oils meant for off- road use.

Brian

<snip>

I remember dumping the stuff in and having to remove the side case to clean the moly off of the sight glass.  It did make for some nice shifting, though.