Author Topic: Valves  (Read 2641 times)

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Offline Fred_Harmon_TX

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« on: July 19, 2008, 07:18:00 pm »
Are we havin fun yet, or what?                        
« Last Edit: September 29, 2008, 08:48:00 am by Fred_Harmon_TX »
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Offline smithr1

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« Reply #1 on: July 19, 2008, 08:08:00 pm »
I didn't even get past the first pic and I had decided... Not Really!  ----------------------------------  I will answer any question.  It is up to you to figure out if I should have.    <p align="left">My Photos<br
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Offline Greg Habel

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« Reply #2 on: July 19, 2008, 09:18:00 pm »
Awesome Fred!  This will encourage others to give it a go themselves.  WOuld be awesome to have instructions and photos up in the Library section if you have some time to put it together.  Paving the way - I love it!    Greg  COG # 7010/7010a (Tracey)  CDA 0120  Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude (CDAAD)  99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle".  05 Ninja 250    
« Last Edit: July 19, 2008, 09:19:00 pm by habelsgtb »
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Offline Fred_Harmon_TX

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« Reply #3 on: July 20, 2008, 09:35:00 pm »
Here is my shim map and shim worksheet.  I drew the map with cylinder # 4 at the left, because I worked from the front right side of the bike, and this helped prevent me from getting confused.    As you can see, some of the valves were technically still in spec, I am calling them out, because they are at or near the lower limit. My feeler gauges are in thousandths of an inch, so while the spec on exhaust goes from .0075 to .0095, I can only measure reliably from .007 to .009  So where a .008 won't fit (no-go) but a .007 will, I call the clearance on that valve as .007  In reality, it probably falls somewhere in between .007 and .008, but I error on the side of the smaller value, as I know the valves will tighten up as they wear.    My goal is to set every single valve back as close to the center spec as I can get them.    I suspect that most shops would have called them all good since most of them are marginal, and not changed a single shim. Which is just one more reason why I do it myself.    (click link for full size image)  http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/image/100447858/original          
« Last Edit: September 29, 2008, 08:48:00 am by Fred_Harmon_TX »
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Offline 2linby

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« Reply #4 on: July 22, 2008, 09:28:00 pm »
Fred,    I've got to tell you that although I do not have a C-14, yet.... I'm very happy and impressed with the way you are willing to assist otheres by posting these very detailed descriptions.    Please keep them coming!  Thanks!  AKA "2linby" That's 2-lin-by folks!  Northwest Area Director  COG #5539  AMA #927779  IBA #15034  Team Oregon MC Instructor    http://community.webshots.com/user/2linby  http://tinyurl.com/njas8 (IBA BunBurner Gold Trip)  http://tinyurl.com/lwelx (Alaska trip)      
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Offline MAN OF BLUES

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« Reply #5 on: July 24, 2008, 10:39:00 am »
Good job Fred, looks like you had fun....  I noticed you didn't give the shims you had in cyl 4 left intake, please add it in and shoot me a note.  It appears you lucked out swap wise, not seeing the above shim, I see you needed to buy 6x #28's and 1x #23, the rest were swapped, and you have 2x #30"s, 2x #33's, and 3x #35's as spares. I think it would be wise to have these in a database somewhere(the spares)especially the thick ones that you know you will never go back to, and when all of us COG members get around to doing this service, we could swap from the database.  I'll do the same when I do mine.  What was the cost/time turn for getting the shims you needed, and who did you get them from?  Also, how did the cam faces look?.... are we alll going to be pleased Kaw finally made some hard faced cams?    Thanks again Fred, great job!! ;)    Rich Riczinger  COG 5977  Tech Editor,The Concourier  

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Offline Fred_Harmon_TX

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« Reply #6 on: August 03, 2008, 12:41:00 pm »
Rich, the shim under the outboard intake for #4 was a #25. The 2.25 measurement (in red type) is what the shim actually measured on the micrometer. This is dead on for a #25.    Cams looked good with no signs of pitting. There were a few scratches on some of the bearing surfaces in the head, but they weren't deep enough to be concerned over. I lost track of how much time it took cause I had to go to the dealer and order shims. I reused all my gaskets since they were rubber and in good shape, but I was extremely careful to check them to make sure they stayed in place when I reinstalled the cover, especially the spark plug gaskets since they tend to get knocked out of place. I think total cost for the shims was around $60 from Kawasaki and it took them about 4 days to get from when they ordered.    Bike seems to run a bit smoother since setting the valves all back to center.    If you or anyone else wants to swap shims, I would be happy to make what I have available.      
« Last Edit: September 29, 2008, 08:47:00 am by Fred_Harmon_TX »
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