Author Topic: %$@#@ CLUTCH!  (Read 12912 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline rickm_tx

  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 607
  • It's not the years, my dear....it's the miles.
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 11878
  • Membership Level: Expired - Expired Term
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #25 on: March 14, 2015, 07:21:44 pm »
2005 Concours, Gold

Brakes are for sissys.

Offline VTconnie

  • Crotch Rocket
  • ****
  • Posts: 1613
  • AREA: Northeast Area
  • COG#: 11081
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #26 on: March 14, 2015, 07:24:28 pm »
I last the exact same problem just recently.  I pretty much changed everything and still had the same issue of clutch slipping when getting hot.  The end result was a simple fix.  Bleed, bleed, bleed,bleed the clutch.  I though I had all the air out, but I didn't. 

If you are using speed bleeders, then I would do it manually.  I had speed bleeders and they did allow some air back into the system.  I probably had a bad one, but still I would just do it the old fashion way.

+1 on this. ^

Throwing parts at it from Ebay might have been a bit rash, you could have completely disassembled the Master and Slave cylinders for cleaning, and if in good condition put them back together for free. The problem becoming worse when hot is indicative of the clutch hydraulics. Make sure both ends of the system are clean, and air-free. The clutch basket might not need any attention, a fresh oil change and you may never have to worry about it. Simple stuff first -
<--2003 Concours C-10 "Conifer", -AKA- The Cruise Missile
1980 CB900C DOHC "Old Iron" -AKA- The Hill Climber                

Offline rickm_tx

  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 607
  • It's not the years, my dear....it's the miles.
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 11878
  • Membership Level: Expired - Expired Term
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #27 on: March 14, 2015, 07:26:00 pm »
Disagree with heat being an issue.  The thing works fine for a few days.  Only difference is that the clutch engages later and later in the lever travel until - yep, you guessed it.  It slips.

I am more inclined to think it is, as Fred said, an air issue.  Not enough pressure pushing back in the line to relax the plunger the lever  pushes....is my guess.

Fred, got a nice little (and cheap - on sale) vacuum bleeder from autozone  that works WONDERS.  Flushing and bleeding is a non-issue with me now.

At this point I don't know but I intend to find out.  Will keep you guys posted.
2005 Concours, Gold

Brakes are for sissys.

Offline rickm_tx

  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 607
  • It's not the years, my dear....it's the miles.
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 11878
  • Membership Level: Expired - Expired Term
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #28 on: March 14, 2015, 07:27:19 pm »
I last the exact same problem just recently.  I pretty much changed everything and still had the same issue of clutch slipping when getting hot.  The end result was a simple fix.  Bleed, bleed, bleed,bleed the clutch.  I though I had all the air out, but I didn't. 

If you are using speed bleeders, then I would do it manually.  I had speed bleeders and they did allow some air back into the system.  I probably had a bad one, but still I would just do it the old fashion way.

+1 on this. ^

Throwing parts at it from Ebay might have been a bit rash, you could have completely disassembled the Master and Slave cylinders for cleaning, and if in good condition put them back together for free. The problem becoming worse when hot is indicative of the clutch hydraulics. Make sure both ends of the system are clean, and air-free. The clutch basket might not need any attention, a fresh oil change and you may never have to worry about it. Simple stuff first -

Agreed.
2005 Concours, Gold

Brakes are for sissys.

Offline VTconnie

  • Crotch Rocket
  • ****
  • Posts: 1613
  • AREA: Northeast Area
  • COG#: 11081
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #29 on: March 14, 2015, 07:33:10 pm »
Well it sounds like it is the speed bleeders letting air in, exactly like Fred mentioned. They might work fine on a car's brakes but the tiny-tiny Connie clutch system must be very sensitive.


EDIT TO ADD: I am not one to talk on throwing parts at a problem either, I still have a mint $200 valve head sitting on a toast motor in my shop. As well as about 1/2 to 2/3rds of the Concours that surrounded it. I could literally throw parts all day  :D
« Last Edit: March 14, 2015, 07:38:38 pm by VTconnie »
<--2003 Concours C-10 "Conifer", -AKA- The Cruise Missile
1980 CB900C DOHC "Old Iron" -AKA- The Hill Climber                

Offline rickm_tx

  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 607
  • It's not the years, my dear....it's the miles.
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 11878
  • Membership Level: Expired - Expired Term
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #30 on: March 14, 2015, 07:34:26 pm »
Did you go back to the stock lever to rule out a bad lever?  I had to ask.   :)

Yes.  Went back to stock - no change, unfortunately.  Of course it couldn't be THAT easy.
2005 Concours, Gold

Brakes are for sissys.

Offline fred-houston

  • Officer
  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 978
  • COG Membership Officer
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 9066
  • Membership Level: Administrator
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #31 on: March 14, 2015, 07:36:52 pm »
Disagree with heat being an issue.  The thing works fine for a few days.  Only difference is that the clutch engages later and later in the lever travel until - yep, you guessed it.  It slips.

I am more inclined to think it is, as Fred said, an air issue.  Not enough pressure pushing back in the line to relax the plunger the lever  pushes....is my guess.

Fred, got a nice little (and cheap - on sale) vacuum bleeder from autozone  that works WONDERS.  Flushing and bleeding is a non-issue with me now.

At this point I don't know but I intend to find out.  Will keep you guys posted.

I have one too, but it didn't get all the air out, probably because I quit too soon.  I have found that if the connection to the bleed valve is not perfect it will allow the tiniest amount of air back in.  My method now is to leave the bleed valve closed and then pull a vacuum using the pump.  I then crack the bleeder and then close it before it looses all the vacuum, then repeat about a 100 times.  For me this is the best method.
Fred Boothe - COG Membership Officer
Missouri City, TeXaS
1999 C-10 EFI (Semi Naked)
2016 Yamaha Super Tenere

Offline Redbarron

  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 604
  • AREA: Northeast Area
  • COG#: 10045
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #32 on: March 14, 2015, 08:18:06 pm »
Hello Rick:

If air is an issue go to veterinarians get a large syringe.  Then take the cap off the master wrap a rag around it and use a Lobster band or something to keep the lever compressed.  Then fill the syringe with brake fluid and attache a hose between it and the bleed screw on the slave cylinder.

Make sure and bleed the air out of the tube before you hook it up to the bleeder screw then, Just crack the bleeder and slowly inject the brake fluid (be careful).

Shut the bleeder, take off the hose and remove the clamp or rubber band from lever.

Slowly and repeatedly keep working the clutch lever you should nor have any bubbles.

(note) A little aerating is expected but if you see large bubbles keep working it until the go away.

If they don't after about the first 20 squeezes then you have an issue.

If I had to guess this should solve your issue.

Good Luck ;)



Never Allow the Radicall Views of the Few to Infringe on the Constitutional Rights of the Many

Offline MAN OF BLUES

  • I Need a Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 9309
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: 5977
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #33 on: March 14, 2015, 10:09:19 pm »
With all of the bleeding and fluid replacements, over and over, and you still have slip issues, that occurr days later, I think its time to break down and examine the star springs.... you may have actully done due dilligence on all of the hydaulics, and a finger from a broken spring is migrating around down there creating the issue..... I've seen it many times, works fine, then blammo slipps... then works again, and.....

Star springs can and do breake on any year Conni, they aren't just a problem associated with old bikes. Inspect the springs, it'll only cost you a gasket to put that part out of the equation if they aren't broke. Also make sure that last (outer) friction plate is offset to tune adjacent notch as shown in the service manual, if that clutch was ever serviced prior, it may have been assembled incorrectly, and is just showing up now.

30 YEARS OF KAW.....Rich R. (the other one..)  COG 5977  JUSTAMEMBAHNOW
and if you are gonna call me names... it's MR. Analdweeb if you please...

Offline connie_rider

  • "OtP" {retired/assistant} Slave Labor
  • I Need a Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 9302
  • Help us make "OtP" possible! "AGAIN"
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 4154
  • Membership Level: Asst. Area Director
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #34 on: March 14, 2015, 10:20:07 pm »
I suspect corrosion inside of the slave cylinder.
Take it apart, clean and look for roughness.
Use very fine sand paper or steel wool.
Clean the surfaces.
Reassemble and test.

Ride safe, Ted

14 Connie (Traveler II) / 03 Connie (Buddy)
Gone but not forgotten; 87 and 00 Connies..

If your not already a COGger, "consider becoming one".
Help us make "OtP" possible again!!

Offline rickm_tx

  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 607
  • It's not the years, my dear....it's the miles.
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 11878
  • Membership Level: Expired - Expired Term
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #35 on: March 14, 2015, 11:56:44 pm »
What ever it is, it is AGGRAVATING!

  :41: :41::41: :41::41: :41::41: :41::41: :41::41: :41::41: :41::41: :41::41: :41::41: :41::41: :41::41: :41:
2005 Concours, Gold

Brakes are for sissys.

Offline WillyP

  • I Need a Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 6129
  • Live Free Or Die
    • Suncook Carpentry
  • AREA: Northeast Area
  • COG#: 8799
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #36 on: March 15, 2015, 12:08:03 am »
If the slipping goes away when you crack the bleeder and relive the pressure, the problem is that the master is not allowing the fluid to return. And replacing your master with another used master doesn't guarantee the second unit is not at fault also.

There are two reasons it might not be allowing fluid to return, either the port is blocked by some piece of crap, or the piston is not returning far enough to uncover the port.

Edit: found this:

« Last Edit: March 15, 2015, 12:26:23 am by WillyP »
Smart people look like crazy people to stupid people.
pics

Offline rickm_tx

  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 607
  • It's not the years, my dear....it's the miles.
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 11878
  • Membership Level: Expired - Expired Term
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #37 on: March 15, 2015, 05:43:07 am »
I dunno WillyP.

2 different master cylinders with the same problem?  And no one else seems to have it?  Do the math.   I am NEVER gonna beat the odds.  I'm just not lucky that way.

Fantastic diagram, though.  I guess I have the 'old style' reservoir.

This is what I keep going back to:  bought the bike.  Clutch worked fine for a solid 3-4 months without a hitch,  BUT engaged at the very end of the lever travel.  Bought new levers and Voila!  Clutch slippage.

When something worked and now it doesn't, the first question you ask is "what changed"?  Because something HAS changed.

In this case, only the levers changed (as for as I know).  But, in order to install the new lever, the old one had to come out - meaning the plunger assembly was disturbed (changed?).  BUT -  the old lever was eventually replaced.  And none of this really matters because I have replaced it all with a nearly new assembly.  I mean, this thing (the new assembly) was SPOTLESS.  Fluid level window as clean and spotless as they come.  No grim or residue in the reservoir bowl corners.....even the corners of the reservoir lid were unblemished (meaning no wear marks at the corners where the paint has been rubbed/worn off and almost NO wear marks on the lever itself.  This thing had hardly been used.

So, if (as Fred suggests) I have an elusive air problem, which I feel may be the case, where did it come from?  From changing the lever in the first place and disturbing the plunger assembly?  And now some tiny air bubble is trapped somewhere?  Maybe in the slave?

I just don't know, but I will tell you one thing - the problem has GOT to go.  So, here is my plan of attack:

1) find a more secure fitting hose to fit onto the bleeder valve and use the vacuum to bleed, bleed, bleed.  Brake fluid is cheap enough.

If this doesn't work, then

2) disassemble the slave cylinder, clean everything and reinstall it.

And if this doesn't work

I don't know.  I'm not thinking that far.  I'm trusting in the fact that 1 or 2 is going to nail it for me.

Think positive.  That's the ticket.

Thanks so much, everyone for all the input and suggestions.  Think I'm going to treat the person who offered the winning suggestion to a nice farkle (albeit a cheap one).

So what the hell changed?
2005 Concours, Gold

Brakes are for sissys.

Offline Thud300

  • Taking the long way everywhere
  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 817
  • my YouTube channel: "ToastRider"
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: Forum
  • Membership Level: Forum Subscriber
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #38 on: March 15, 2015, 05:57:17 am »
What are you using for engine oil/additives? Just to establish that, since no one has mentioned it...

I would suggest simple gravity bleeding, no pump or speed bleeder. Just allow the fluid to flow on its own and watch for bubbles to come out of the valve. Then top off with dot4, put the cover on and pump the bejeezus out of the clutch lever!  And by that I mean a couple of hundred cycles as fast as you can with both hands.

If that doesn't work then you have deeper issues as the others have stated.
« Last Edit: March 15, 2015, 06:07:08 am by Thud300 »
Returning old Kawis to riding glory since 2014
1998 Concours "Connimus Prime"  CDA #555
1991 Voyager XII "Xaviera"
1989 454 LTD "Merlin"

Offline rickm_tx

  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 607
  • It's not the years, my dear....it's the miles.
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 11878
  • Membership Level: Expired - Expired Term
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #39 on: March 15, 2015, 05:59:28 am »
Thinking about this, I almost want to believe I have a problem in the system that is allowing air in the line somehow.  Because that is exactly how this problem is acting - like a trapped air bubble, then when I bleed it, the air bubble is evacuated and the system works fine.

But what if there is a part or a connection or a rubber o-ring or SOMETHING that is introducing a minute amount of air into the line?  But how and where?


*&#$! Clutch.  This is sssooooo frustrating.
2005 Concours, Gold

Brakes are for sissys.

Offline rickm_tx

  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 607
  • It's not the years, my dear....it's the miles.
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 11878
  • Membership Level: Expired - Expired Term
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #40 on: March 15, 2015, 06:01:05 am »
What are you using for engine oil/additives? Just to establish that, since no one has mentioned it...

No additives, just straight Mobile One synthetic.
2005 Concours, Gold

Brakes are for sissys.

Offline SteveJ.

  • I Need a Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 5835
  • AREA: Southeast Area
  • COG#: 5603
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #41 on: March 15, 2015, 07:53:24 am »
What are you using for engine oil/additives? Just to establish that, since no one has mentioned it...

No additives, just straight Mobile One synthetic.
Just to be sure, what weight?

Generally if it's a hydraulic issue and you have air in the system, the clutch will not release, always engaged, the rod does not move to release spring pressure on the clutch pack.

The issue you seem to now have is that the clutch starts to slip after a while, i.e. day or two or more. Again, assuming a hydraulics issue, the only way that this can happen is if that smallest port in the master is plugging, not relieving the pressure pressing against the springs on the clutch pac.
This would be indicated by loosening the bleeder after the clutch starts to slip and having fluid push out under a bit of pressure without pulling the clutch lever.

Or it could be a star spring.

Just to add iff'n I didn't before, my clutch fibers were still at about 30% at 200k miles when I replaced the clutch springs due to fatigue. The springs were about an eighth inch short.
« Last Edit: March 15, 2015, 08:00:09 am by SteveJ. »
Yeah, if you want true ram air tuning, you better be willing to ram some air! (SiSF)
Tick Tock, baby (Ironbuttal)
Steve J  Tavares, FL, one of the Floriduh Steves
'15 Versys650LT, '98 KLR650, (back home), '99 C-10, 234k miles sold

Offline connie_rider

  • "OtP" {retired/assistant} Slave Labor
  • I Need a Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 9302
  • Help us make "OtP" possible! "AGAIN"
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 4154
  • Membership Level: Asst. Area Director
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #42 on: March 15, 2015, 12:27:53 pm »
if (as Fred suggests) I have an elusive air problem, which I feel may be the case, where did it come from?

I suspect corrosion inside of the slave cylinder.

Ride safe, Ted

14 Connie (Traveler II) / 03 Connie (Buddy)
Gone but not forgotten; 87 and 00 Connies..

If your not already a COGger, "consider becoming one".
Help us make "OtP" possible again!!

Offline VTconnie

  • Crotch Rocket
  • ****
  • Posts: 1613
  • AREA: Northeast Area
  • COG#: 11081
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #43 on: March 15, 2015, 02:57:36 pm »
What are you using for engine oil/additives? Just to establish that, since no one has mentioned it...

No additives, just straight Mobile One synthetic.
Just to be sure, what weight?

Generally if it's a hydraulic issue and you have air in the system, the clutch will not release, always engaged, the rod does not move to release spring pressure on the clutch pack.

The issue you seem to now have is that the clutch starts to slip after a while, i.e. day or two or more. Again, assuming a hydraulics issue, the only way that this can happen is if that smallest port in the master is plugging, not relieving the pressure pressing against the springs on the clutch pac.
This would be indicated by loosening the bleeder after the clutch starts to slip and having fluid push out under a bit of pressure without pulling the clutch lever.

Or it could be a star spring.

Just to add iff'n I didn't before, my clutch fibers were still at about 30% at 200k miles when I replaced the clutch springs due to fatigue. The springs were about an eighth inch short.

Exactly, I've read lots on COG about the durability of these clutches, so the basket is likely fine. Since the issue has gone on this long, I would suggest getting that right-side engine cover off and inspecting the star springs and the ACT. The Alternator Chain Tension-er can become worn out from 50K and up, and will put dings in the clutch cover. Regardless, maybe tear both clutch cylinders apart, and order rebuild kits if needed IMO.
« Last Edit: March 15, 2015, 03:02:12 pm by VTconnie »
<--2003 Concours C-10 "Conifer", -AKA- The Cruise Missile
1980 CB900C DOHC "Old Iron" -AKA- The Hill Climber                

Offline WillyP

  • I Need a Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 6129
  • Live Free Or Die
    • Suncook Carpentry
  • AREA: Northeast Area
  • COG#: 8799
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #44 on: March 15, 2015, 03:29:26 pm »
Rick. This issue pops up about once a month, it's very common. And if you replaced the master with even a brand new one, you might still have had the same problem, as you did not disassemble and clean the whole system at the same time. Assemble a clean master to a dirty system, and you have a dirty system.

It's possible, though, that something didn't get put back together correctly either when you put the new lever on, or when you went back to the original. As I said, the plunger needs to come back to rest in order to relieve the pressure. However, that is unlikely to be a problem with 2 masters in a row, unless whatever you did with the first one you did with the second.
Smart people look like crazy people to stupid people.
pics

Offline Thud300

  • Taking the long way everywhere
  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 817
  • my YouTube channel: "ToastRider"
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: Forum
  • Membership Level: Forum Subscriber
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #45 on: March 15, 2015, 03:36:00 pm »


No additives, just straight Mobile One synthetic.

Is the label on the container marked "Energy Conserving"?
If it is, bad juju for clutch material.
Returning old Kawis to riding glory since 2014
1998 Concours "Connimus Prime"  CDA #555
1991 Voyager XII "Xaviera"
1989 454 LTD "Merlin"

Offline connie_rider

  • "OtP" {retired/assistant} Slave Labor
  • I Need a Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 9302
  • Help us make "OtP" possible! "AGAIN"
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 4154
  • Membership Level: Asst. Area Director
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #46 on: March 15, 2015, 04:36:19 pm »
I think it's time to do as everyone has said. Take everything apart and look things over.
Master Cylinder, Slave cylinder, clutch.

Only other thought is;
Since the problem started when you installed the lever.
THere is something you can try.

The next time it does it; find a side road, stop and remove the clutch lever.
Do a rolling start and upshift (without clutch) to the correct gear.
See if removing the lever fixes it....
If it does, that information may help solve the problem.

Ride safe, Ted

Update; I just saw this on another discussion.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=19010.0
Someone else had a clutch problem.

Ted







« Last Edit: March 15, 2015, 04:56:21 pm by connie_rider »
14 Connie (Traveler II) / 03 Connie (Buddy)
Gone but not forgotten; 87 and 00 Connies..

If your not already a COGger, "consider becoming one".
Help us make "OtP" possible again!!

Offline rickm_tx

  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 607
  • It's not the years, my dear....it's the miles.
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 11878
  • Membership Level: Expired - Expired Term
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #47 on: March 15, 2015, 08:09:39 pm »
Rick. This issue pops up about once a month, it's very common.

However, that is unlikely to be a problem with 2 masters in a row, unless whatever you did with the first one you did with the second.

HHHmmmm.  Thanks for that tidbit.  Did not know it was so common.

Can't imagine what it is I did twice in a row, though...
2005 Concours, Gold

Brakes are for sissys.

Offline Redbarron

  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 604
  • AREA: Northeast Area
  • COG#: 10045
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #48 on: March 15, 2015, 09:48:15 pm »
 ??? ??? Mobil 1 Synthetic ?????????????

Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 4-cycle motorcycle oils

If it is NOT one of these you found you'r cause.

Strongly recommend using this http://www.shell.com/rotella/products/t6.html

If this is the case we will have to rag on you a little bit >:D Just kidding mistakes happen.

The thing to look for with Motorcycle oil is the JASO MA spec.
Never Allow the Radicall Views of the Few to Infringe on the Constitutional Rights of the Many

Offline WillyP

  • I Need a Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 6129
  • Live Free Or Die
    • Suncook Carpentry
  • AREA: Northeast Area
  • COG#: 8799
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: %$@#@ CLUTCH!
« Reply #49 on: March 16, 2015, 01:25:25 am »
Rick. This issue pops up about once a month, it's very common.

However, that is unlikely to be a problem with 2 masters in a row, unless whatever you did with the first one you did with the second.

HHHmmmm.  Thanks for that tidbit.  Did not know it was so common.

Can't imagine what it is I did twice in a row, though...

Or maybe what you didn't do. You left out the most important part of what I wrote:

And if you replaced the master with even a brand new one, you might still have had the same problem, as you did not disassemble and clean the whole system at the same time. Assemble a clean master to a dirty system, and you have a dirty system.

If there is crap in the lines or the slave, it might have gone directly to the bleed of port in your new master, and clogged it.
Or it could be that the new master was clogged already.

And never use Teflon tape on any part of a brake system.

And it still could be a peice of star spring that broke loose, but based on you saying the clutch would return to normal when you open the bleeder to release fluid pressure, I think the bleed port in the master is either clogged or blocked by a piston not returning. There should no pressure in the system when the clutch lever is released. Take a look at the drawing I posted and you'll understand why.
« Last Edit: March 16, 2015, 01:29:29 am by WillyP »
Smart people look like crazy people to stupid people.
pics