Author Topic: After valve adjust hesitation in engine  (Read 381 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Bucky

  • Road Bike
  • ***
  • Posts: 360
  • AREA: Northeast Area
  • COG#: 11949
  • Membership Level: Active
After valve adjust hesitation in engine
« on: October 16, 2017, 04:28:07 pm »
Bike ran fine for half mile then I put in gas, but only half a tank for now. Now it acts like it's getting fuel starved. I have the tank off and all vacuum hose look correct. The bike runs fine then all of a sudden starts to hesitate. The hesitation was intermittent during my 26 Mile commute. The vacuum hose to the petcock seems correct. Is there such a thing as the spark plug wires should cross in a certain way? I seem to recall certain cars used to have that problem, but I don't know much about it. Another clue, it idles fine, and runs fine at start of movement. I also pulled the petcock and the screen is pristine clean and intact. I also run a fuel filter which is half full of fuel and no dirt in it. I've adjusted valves before, and I'm fairly confident that I got it all right, including spinning the engine with the starter few times then going back over the valves. I've used feeler gauges for many years, and I think I'm pretty much where I should be at .15 and .20 mm.

Thanks.

Voice texted to my cell phone, hence the weird formatting.
« Last Edit: October 16, 2017, 04:52:51 pm by Bucky »


Antique Machinery Junkie

Offline connie_rider

  • OtP {assistant} Slave Labor
  • I Need a Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 7116
  • Help us make "OtP" possible! "AGAIN"
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 4154
  • Membership Level: Asst. Area Director
Re: After valve adjust hesitation in engine
« Reply #1 on: October 16, 2017, 06:37:55 pm »
Look at your spark plug wires and cap
Often the wire {at the cap} is corroded or not making good contact with the cap..
  {As you bent the wires to reinstall them, you may have bad contact. Trim the ends and reassemble}

Also, check the wires, and the ground on your coils...

Check the fuel line is not bent and causing restriction.
  {Mine was once bent and would collapse after it got hot}

Ride safe, Ted
« Last Edit: October 17, 2017, 02:22:58 pm by connie_rider »
14 Connie (Traveler II)
03 Connie (Buddy)

To contribute to "OtP", (Chg. Card or paypal)  Click Here
(For Paypal) send to treasurer@cog-online.org

Offline Bud

  • Road Bike
  • ***
  • Posts: 372
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: Forum
  • Membership Level: Forum Subscriber
Re: After valve adjust hesitation in engine
« Reply #2 on: October 16, 2017, 06:43:28 pm »
Pull the additional fuel filter and give it a shot.  Is the hesitation like a flat spot but will accelerate past that spot or is it like a miss or stutter that won't go away at higher rpm?  I thought I had crap in my carbs on my GS1100.  My carb problems turned out to be a crappy connection in the connector for the igniter.  I scuffed the connector just by plugging and unpluging 4 or 5 times.  Problem cured.  Can you make it misbehave in your garage?  If so I would pull the tank and come up with a test tank that is positively clean.  I've used old oil bottles to test on before.  Might get gas from somewhere else to put in the test tank.  IIRC the left coil feeds 1 and 4 and the right coil feeds 2 and 3.  Check the connection for corrosion in the spark plug caps.  Caps can be unscrewed from the wire and wire trimmed a quarter of an inch if you're concerned about that.  Caps can go bad btw.

Offline RWulf

  • Crotch Rocket
  • ****
  • Posts: 1506
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: 7122
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: After valve adjust hesitation in engine
« Reply #3 on: October 16, 2017, 11:13:48 pm »
If the screen is clean & pristine than you don't need that filter.
You must be buying good gas. It has happened with adding the
filter you bend the gas line too much. you might want to check this.

Offline Mettler1

  • Iron Butt
  • *****
  • Posts: 3028
  • You want answers? We got answers!!
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: 1431
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: After valve adjust hesitation in engine
« Reply #4 on: October 17, 2017, 03:20:55 am »
  No need to have a bend in the fuel line. have used one of these for yrs.


                https://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-043-0645-Fuel-Filter/dp/B000CAXTWO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1508213958&sr=8-1&keywords=fuel+filter+043-0645
'94 Concours 115,000 miles-- 7th gear,2MM,KB fork brace,Over flowtubes,Stick coils,Tcro shifter,GPS,SiSF'sTorque cams,SPOOKFAK,block off plates, SS brake & clutch lines,KB risers, FENDA EXTENDA, emulators, SiSF carb Spa, Delkevic exhaust, Murphs' knee savers +grips, etc

Offline Bucky

  • Road Bike
  • ***
  • Posts: 360
  • AREA: Northeast Area
  • COG#: 11949
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: After valve adjust hesitation in engine
« Reply #5 on: October 17, 2017, 06:04:26 pm »
I changed the inline fuel filter today and I'm about 99% better. The old filter had a deformation of the inlet pipe from me trying to remove the hose from it the other day.

 I also have a very very slight leak at the petcock for what that's worth? The leak was there before the valve adjustment, and the bike ran good before the valve adjust. The bike now, when it's running right, sounds a little throatier with all the valves adjusted, although that could relate to how bikes run faster after you wax them. Hahaha.  I'm taking that as a good sign. This bike is still pretty new to me, At 13 thousand miles of mine, and 13,000 miles of the original owner equals around 26k total.

I still have a slight burbal in there that I wouldn't think is a non synced carb issue. I haven't been able to sync the carbs yet. One little odd thing that happened when I replaced two plug boots I could feel wire going down over each threaded plug top. This happened with two of the boots, and the other two boots I didn't feel that click click click click click. Kind of thinking I should cut back some insulation see if I can find some wire. One of the plug tops was corroded, so I imagine that wire in there must be too?
Before I forget, my thanks to all of you and your great suggestions. Love this place. Save me mucho money.
« Last Edit: October 17, 2017, 06:11:34 pm by Bucky »


Antique Machinery Junkie

Offline Jim

  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 650
  • Jim
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: Forum
  • Membership Level: Forum Subscriber
Re: After valve adjust hesitation in engine
« Reply #6 on: October 17, 2017, 06:31:19 pm »
Is your gas leak from the weep hole on the back side of the petcock and only leaks when the bike is running or the lever is set to PRIME?  If so, it will only get worse at the least inopportune time.

Offline Bucky

  • Road Bike
  • ***
  • Posts: 360
  • AREA: Northeast Area
  • COG#: 11949
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: After valve adjust hesitation in engine
« Reply #7 on: October 17, 2017, 06:35:53 pm »
Is your gas leak from the weep hole on the back side of the petcock and only leaks when the bike is running or the lever is set to PRIME?  If so, it will only get worse at the least inopportune time.

I'm not exactly sure where it leaks. I'll have to look into that a little further. I have a kit to convert it to a non vacuum petcock, but I can't find the damn thing. We moved and my stuff is all still upside down.  >:(
And the bad news there is, that equals two 48 foot storage trailers, and half of a cellar. Yeesh.
The good news the two storage trailers cost me 0, but then again, that's no motivation to get them empty. ;)
« Last Edit: October 17, 2017, 06:39:36 pm by Bucky »


Antique Machinery Junkie

Offline Bud

  • Road Bike
  • ***
  • Posts: 372
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: Forum
  • Membership Level: Forum Subscriber
Re: After valve adjust hesitation in engine
« Reply #8 on: October 17, 2017, 06:51:58 pm »
Unless you already have, or are planning to get overflow tubes installed in the carb bowls, don't go with a manual petcock.  You only have to forget once and that will cost you a bent rod in the engine.  If you have the cash, just order a new OEM petcock and send the carb bowls off to SISF for overflow tubes.  At minimum get a new OEM petcock.  90 bucks is lots cheaper than a bent rod from being hydrolocked.