Author Topic: Battery Woes  (Read 303 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Samonty

  • Tricycle
  • Posts: 23
  • AREA: Northeast Area
  • COG#: 12601
  • Membership Level: Active
Battery Woes
« on: October 09, 2018, 04:17:19 pm »
Has anyone have a battery just die? I’ve been enjoying the commute to work with no issues.

Last night I rode to work as usual, this morning when I came out to ride home I turned the key and everything lit up. When I touched the start button the engine barely started to turn over and then nothing dead as a stone. Checked the basics no bad fuses no loose connections even went back and got my DVM and checked things. Got a set of jumper cables and a friends truck and it fired right up. Running voltage at the battery was 14.

When I got home and turned it off and back on, lights only came on very dim and I got a week click. I put my battery charger on it. When it started it read battery 65% and took too short of a time to get to 100% and still when I tried to start the bike; dim lights no crank.

I pulled the battery and connected a car battery up temporarily and she fired right up and ran normal.

So I can only conclude my battery just went bad.

I did the ground wire upgrade to the ignition module a while ago.

Offline Victor Salisbury

  • Crotch Rocket
  • ****
  • Posts: 1226
  • AREA: Southeast Area
  • COG#: 3673
  • Membership Level: Event Host
Re: Battery Woes
« Reply #1 on: October 09, 2018, 04:57:31 pm »
Yep, had that happen a couple of times to my C10 the past 10 years. Both were AGM powersports batteries and they just,,,,,,,quit. Had a little over 3 years here in the FLoor-ee-duh heat, daily driver, on both of them, so I wasn't super surprised, but it seemed sudden.
Of course, when I put the new battery in, it was like, 'wow, bike starts up real quick like now'   :-[  So the demise was probably gradual, I just didn't pick up on it.

Back in the day, we used to have the Yuasa Sudden Death Syndrome (YSDS) quite prevalent with the lead acid batteries, Yuasa brand. One of the internal plates comes loose, internal short, poof, battery dun. 

Now I've adopted a policy if it's older than 2 years, replace at the slightest hint of starting slowing down, after confirming everything else is on good working order.
Vic Salisbury
COG #3673 
'97 Connie "The Grinch" 
Sarasota, FL 
www.cog-online.org 
Stupid Hurts! Wearing protective gear is much more comfortable.

Offline kkja13

  • Mini Bike
  • **
  • Posts: 160
  • Tyler, TX
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: Forum
  • Membership Level: Forum Subscriber
Re: Battery Woes
« Reply #2 on: October 09, 2018, 08:07:25 pm »
http://forum.cog-online.org/concours-c10-zg1000-general-chat-and-tech/super-cheap-agm-18ah-battery-it's-frugaliscious!!!/

Rev recommended this type of battery on the cheap, $40-50 range, I've got a little over a year on mine, still working great.  They are AGM and come with nuts and bolts.

Here's the specific one that I got.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A82A3RK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2004 C10
2003 Suzuki SV650s
2000 Kawasaki Eliminator 125 (75mpg!)
1993 Suzuki DR350; 1984 Honda XR200R (RFVC); 1985 Yamaha PW80; 1975 Yamaha DT175;
1974 Honda ST90; 1973 Honda Z50 (first bike, still runs)

Offline bajasam

  • Training Wheels
  • *
  • Posts: 69
  • AREA: Southwest Area
  • COG#: Forum
  • Membership Level: Forum Subscriber
Re: Battery Woes
« Reply #3 on: October 09, 2018, 08:25:27 pm »
sad to hear that quirk with the c-10, all the other bikes and quads ive had always got 8-10 years on a battery as long as they were maintained well. has anyone tried a lithium battery on the c-10.my last bike an xr650 honda had a 6 yearold lithium in it that was still going strong when i sold it and it only weighed about one pound and was no bigger than two packs of cigs.
« Last Edit: October 09, 2018, 08:32:03 pm by bajasam »

Offline Bud

  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 806
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: Forum
  • Membership Level: Forum Subscriber
Re: Battery Woes
« Reply #4 on: October 09, 2018, 08:40:42 pm »

Offline MAN OF BLUES

  • I Need a Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 8252
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: 5977
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: Battery Woes
« Reply #5 on: October 09, 2018, 09:47:08 pm »
Has anyone have a battery just die? I’ve been enjoying the commute to work with no issues.

Last night I rode to work as usual, this morning when I came out to ride home I turned the key and everything lit up. When I touched the start button the engine barely started to turn over and then nothing dead as a stone. Checked the basics no bad fuses no loose connections even went back and got my DVM and checked things. Got a set of jumper cables and a friends truck and it fired right up. Running voltage at the battery was 14.

When I got home and turned it off and back on, lights only came on very dim and I got a week click. I put my battery charger on it. When it started it read battery 65% and took too short of a time to get to 100% and still when I tried to start the bike; dim lights no crank.

I pulled the battery and connected a car battery up temporarily and she fired right up and ran normal.

So I can only conclude my battery just went bad.

I did the ground wire upgrade to the ignition module a while ago.

well... buying a new battery, as everyone so far is giving you links for a purchase, MAY help...

but lets go back to BASICS... Battery 101 class...

from your post, you documented the series you went thru, but the series you went theu leaves a lot of 'loopholes'.

How old is the actual battery?
Type? sealed maintenece free, or lead acid that you can pop the caps off and check electrolyte level?
If you check level, is it low?, (refill to line with distilled water, re close it, shake it up well, and continue..)

Now,
you said the connections were tight... means nothing...
you said you tested with VOM with bike running after jump starting... means nothing, the volts you saw, are from the charging system of the bike, not an indicator of battery voltage...and likely the probes were stuck against the bolts on the cable ends, not the bare battery terminals. Either way, you are just seeing the volts delivered from the charging system,,,

the 'jump start' likely had the jumper cables in contact with the bikes cable ends, so of course the bike will start...

as would it when you jumped it with the battery out, using the car battery, again using jumper cables, which clamped tightly with the sharp teeth on them, biting into your cable ends...

the charging system can toss 14 volts, and current, thru those cables, but the cables and terminals must be cleaned...
not 'look clean', physically scrubbed shiny and clean using sandpaper, battery and cable ends both...
Now... charge the battery out of the bike.... as charging it in the bike, with the prior terminal issue never really puts juice into the battery, and the charger's 'meter' will give a false reading, based on a few milliamps, at maybe 12+volts, saying it's charged... when it really isn't, the meter on the charger offers no load, so it lies...
Fully charge the battery out of the bike, then again check the volts on the TERMINALs, with a VOM... hold it in place, see if the volts begin to drop in about a minute or so...
if no appreciable voltage loss is occurring (like less than .03V), then reinstall, and start the bike... if it clicks again, remove and check battery volts again, disconnected, and out of the bike.. if it's low.. maybe replace, but fully charge it, and go to an auto parts store, and have it 'load tested', this will tell you if you REALLY do need to replace the battery....

If you do buy a new battery, clean it's terminals with sandpaper also... just do it, please, and also charge it fully on the bench before installing it... even if new, cycle it on the charger.

Connections are never clean and tight, by sight and feel... they are only so when you remove them, clean them, and tighten them.


the simplist way to show this, is to stick the probes from a VOM to the place the terminations on the wires 'crimp' onto the wire itself, and have someone hit the starter button... and you see the VOM go to zero...


« Last Edit: October 09, 2018, 10:08:59 pm by MAN OF BLUES »

30 YEARS OF KAW.....Rich R. (the other one..)  COG 5977  JUSTAMEMBAHNOW
and if you are gonna call me names... it's MR. Analdweeb if you please...

Offline Samonty

  • Tricycle
  • Posts: 23
  • AREA: Northeast Area
  • COG#: 12601
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: Battery Woes
« Reply #6 on: October 11, 2018, 10:35:27 pm »
Blues Brother,

Thanks for the most helpful post. I’ll try to close up my loopholes.

The battery is an AGM sealed battery.
As for age, I have no idea it was purchased by the PO and I was told it was “new”  it in looking at the date on the side of it May 7 is what it says but I know that the 7 can’t mean 2017 because I’ve owned the bike since 2016.

I verified that the connections were tight with a screwdriver, and there was no corrosion on the terminal ends or the battery posts.

I realize a voltage reading on a static battery can be false.. by reading 12v and still having no load carrying capabilities.

I indicated the voltage after I jumped the bike to indicate that my charging circuit was functioning.

Thanks for everyone’s input.

I am surprised that most suggestions were for regular wet cell batteries though.

I have priced wet cell, AGM and lithium ion as well. Still not sure which way I’ll go.

Offline Pbfoot

  • Crotch Rocket
  • ****
  • Posts: 1293
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 10807
  • Membership Level: Active
Re: Battery Woes
« Reply #7 on: October 12, 2018, 08:34:31 am »
I prefer the AGM. No worries about adding water. Lithium ion are intriguing though as they are the newest technology and lighter. I will never go wet cell again.
If you don't have time to do it right, when do you have time to do it over.                                                                17" wheels, Nissin 4 piston calipers.1kg Sonic Springs.Cartridge Fork Emulators. KB Brace. Galfer brake lines  Free power mod.