bike rebuilt but wont start

[tercopete]

i rebuilt my 94 Concourse (ZG1000) after a fire she went thru.  The engine was swapped out since the original engine went thru a serious fire that melted all the plastic and electrical wiring.  Now here is what was done: replaced the main and front crowling electrical wiring, the battery (now with a 500 CCA from Bike Master) . the ignition coils (there is spark) the bike cranks strong however will not crank with the start button.  I even went as far as replacing the entire switch.  Turn signals, horn, Brake lights work and even the head lights. But will not crank with holding clutch in and pressing start button.  Now if I go to the battery starter solenoid and jump the engine will crank but will not start. i did also swap out the solenoid and same problem. now fuel is going in and the is spark.  I should note the air box was removed  and individual air filters in stall.  Oh and before some one says Kick stand switch,  even jumped the kick stand switch and even replaced that.  SH**, the bike is looking nice but dam its a giant paper weight at moment some one please help direct me.  And thank you.

[kkja13]

Have you checked:
Clutch switch?
Neutral switch?

[esmoojee]

Did you check the 30A fuse?

[MAN OF BLUES]

do you have a spare J box?
sounds like a defective relay, on that start circuit.

if all wires are correct, pressing the switch should actuate the relay, and the lights should come on... if they don't, check that spot.... telltale symptom...


also, if you jumpered the kickstand switch, did you also jumper the clutch switch? try that also, and we can take those out of the equation.

[tercopete]

thanks for the replies some of the responses I have checked ie: natural switch i checked on dash natural light turns off when i take out of gear.  As for J box yes tried with a different one but i dont know where is the clutch switch is located can you direct me? 

[MAN OF BLUES]

look at the clutch lever, it sits below it..
unplug it, and insert a wire to short between the 2 holes with wires, in the connector.

[tercopete]

it was the clutch switch. thank you esmoojee for the info.   Now to work on fuel delivery. Fuel bowls has fuel so its going in but not delivering to get bike to turn on. there is gas and there is spark on all 4 plugs the spark plugs were all new as well as cable any suggestions.

[esmoojee]

Maybe your jets are clogged? Does the choke function?

[tercopete]

choke was very hard but gotten her to losen up with grease on the outside where it slides from

[connie_rider]

Spray a tiny bit of starter fluid in the airbox while/before cranking.
If it temporarily starts,, your closer.

Ride safe, Ted

[tercopete]

lets hope so update tomarrow

[MAN OF BLUES]

Spray a tiny bit of starter fluid in the airbox while/before cranking.
If it temporarily starts,, your closer.

Ride safe, Ted

don't do that....

there is a port/passage way from the inlet side of the carb, up to the diaphragm... starting fluid and rubber diaphragm combo is not conducive to happy outcome.  spraying anything flammable in an airbox ain't either (not ether..hehheh pun)
the filter catches it, and holds it.. and if it pops and backfires... 

oh... sorry, I missed the part about no airbox, and individual filter pods...
well, that just adds another variable to the cake. 

there is no shortcut to cure blocked starting and low speed idle circuits in these carbs. It requires disassmbly, and complete cleaning if the circuits feeding those 4 little holes that sit up under the butterfly throttle plate..

and so far, there has been no mention to what decade vintage of turpentine/fuel is sitting in the tank... which should be the FIRST thing to dump, clean, and replace with fresh fuel from a clean container..

the "sticky" enrichener lever incident should be an indicator, the levers themselves really should not stick, but if the other end of the enrichener, the actual pistons themselves, are glued in place by gummed up old syrup, they ain't working either.. this can be easily seen by attempting to move the slide bar manually by hand, where the cable attaches to it.. all these "symptoms", when looked at with perspective, are very indicative of the gummed up shape the carbs are in.

[Bud]

oh... sorry, I missed the part about no airbox, and individual filter pods...
well, that just adds another variable to the cake. 

I think what MOB is saying here is that you are making your life more difficult by ditching the stock airbox and installing pod filters.  Going with pods is going to require quite a bit of tinkering with jets etc. to make it run properly.  This isn't just a connie thing, if you head over to the GS Resource site that is all about old Suzuki street bikes, you won't get any love from the elders over there with pods installed.  Unless you're up for lots of trial and error with different jets and needle positions and doing plug chops etc, do yourself a favor and put the airbox back on.  Just hoping to clarify things for you.

[MAN OF BLUES]

i think it was a bike he inherited that had pods installed prior, so I'm not basting him for that, just stating it doesn't help the sit-rep.
 

[Bud]

i think it was a bike he inherited that had pods installed prior, so I'm not basting him for that, just stating it doesn't help the sit-rep.
 

Oops!  Sorry about that!  I guess it would be helpful to know whether or not those carbs have ever performed properly with pod filters.  It seems like a carb cleaning would be in order as well as verifying correct float levels, positions of the needles and proper sync.  Maybe somebody with pods will chime in with info about what jets and settings they are using.