Author Topic: Clutch lever starter junction box schematic puzzle.  (Read 810 times)

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Offline LeeM

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Clutch lever starter junction box schematic puzzle.
« on: November 12, 2018, 11:06:36 pm »
I have a problem where sometimes with the bike in Neutral I have to squeeze the clutch lever to get the starter to operate. Sometimes I have to blip the starter button 4 or five times before the junction box relay clicks. I don't think the starter solenoid is bad. When the handle bar buttons are not working right, I am not hearing the junction box relay click.

What are the pins on the junction box connector I would use to measure the switch resistance? Are the kickstand switch and the clutch starter switch somehow wired together in series?

My bike is a 2000 Connie and I can't figure out the two Clymer manual schematics.

So far, I see that the starter solenoid is conventional automotive practice.  I worked on the junction box about 6 months ago and I can't say for sure if I re-soldered every joint in the box.

What I can't figure out is what the clutch lever switch does. When the clutch handle is squeezed where is the switch? What does that switch do when the clutch handle is squeezed? What are the junction box connector pins that the clutch handle switch uses?

Thanks so much. Boy, those Clymer schematics are a real drag.

Offline mgoodrich

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Re: Clutch lever starter junction box schematic puzzle.
« Reply #1 on: November 12, 2018, 11:58:43 pm »
Concours C10 / ZG1000 General Chat and Tech / Re: Couldn't start bike with kickstand down

Here is a thread that explains how the starter lock outs work. There are others as well.

You can see the switch by looking underneath the handle bar at the opposite end of the clutch lever. The switch provides a ground that bypasses the side stand switch and neutral lock out switches.

Some of the threads show the junction box schematic and what pins to look at.  I don't have them off the top of my head right now.

Here it is.

Concours C10 / ZG1000 General Chat and Tech / Re: Loose Red and blue wirs
« Last Edit: November 13, 2018, 12:13:55 am by mgoodrich »

Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Clutch lever starter junction box schematic puzzle.
« Reply #2 on: November 13, 2018, 02:25:40 am »
If you are pressing the starter button a couple times, and also doing the same when the clutch is pulled in, and sidestand up, without a function,  and all of a sudden then have a 'successful' cranking. it aint the interlocks, it's the actual starter button itself.. it gets an invisible resistive coating on the small contact inside the swittch, very common... and simple to repair...
toss a big towel over the tank and fairing on the switch side, to prevent loss of stuff into the 'dark nether regions'..
then remove the grip and switch pod, and open the pod... gently pry the retainer from the switch buttons backside, where the spring lives, and remove all the contact parts...(spring, and copper hat shaped contactor part...), and use an emory board/nail file to clean the ends of each, and also the "solder blob" contact inside...spray it all claen with some WD40, and re-assemble it.

it's a common issue, may look fine, but the invisible coating needs to be abrasively cleaned.

(edited for clarity of first comment...) :truce:
« Last Edit: November 13, 2018, 09:09:18 pm by MAN OF BLUES »

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Offline connieklr

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Re: Clutch lever starter junction box schematic puzzle.
« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2018, 11:13:01 am »
I have a problem where sometimes with the bike in Neutral I have to squeeze the clutch lever to get the starter to operate. Sometimes I have to blip the starter button 4 or five times before the junction box relay clicks. I don't think the starter solenoid is bad. When the handle bar buttons are not working right, I am not hearing the junction box relay click.

What are the pins on the junction box connector I would use to measure the switch resistance? Are the kickstand switch and the clutch starter switch somehow wired together in series?

My bike is a 2000 Connie and I can't figure out the two Clymer manual schematics.

So far, I see that the starter solenoid is conventional automotive practice.  I worked on the junction box about 6 months ago and I can't say for sure if I re-soldered every joint in the box.

What I can't figure out is what the clutch lever switch does. When the clutch handle is squeezed where is the switch? What does that switch do when the clutch handle is squeezed? What are the junction box connector pins that the clutch handle switch uses?

Thanks so much. Boy, those Clymer schematics are a real drag.


As mentioned, it's in the clutch lever mounting bracket on the handlebar. It's used in conjunction with the neutral switch in an interlocking scheme to prevent the bike from being started if it is in gear without the clutch lever being squeezed in. There really isn't a pin on the j-box to just measure its resistance. The closest would be pin 12, but the lever would have to be squeezed in to get a completed ground-to-pin 12 reading.

Personally, I have never seen a bad or dirty start push button contact. Dirty clutch lever switch contact, yes.

Try this: If you go to start the bike and it won't crank, hold the start push button in and simultaneously "pump" the clutch lever. If it begins to crank, you've eliminated the start push button. It can be removed from the lever mount and cleaned. I prefer a white pencil eraser to burnish the contacts.

Later model schematic:


Not the best pix in the world, but hope it shows you where it is. (Pardon the dirt):






« Last Edit: November 13, 2018, 02:46:55 pm by connieklr »
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Offline JPD

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Re: Clutch lever starter junction box schematic puzzle.
« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2018, 02:37:52 pm »
I have a problem where sometimes with the bike in Neutral I have to squeeze the clutch lever to get the starter to operate. Sometimes I have to blip the starter button 4 or five times before the junction box relay clicks. I don't think the starter solenoid is bad. When the handle bar buttons are not working right, I am not hearing the junction box relay click.

What are the pins on the junction box connector I would use to measure the switch resistance? Are the kickstand switch and the clutch starter switch somehow wired together in series?

My bike is a 2000 Connie and I can't figure out the two Clymer manual schematics.

So far, I see that the starter solenoid is conventional automotive practice.  I worked on the junction box about 6 months ago and I can't say for sure if I re-soldered every joint in the box.

What I can't figure out is what the clutch lever switch does. When the clutch handle is squeezed where is the switch? What does that switch do when the clutch handle is squeezed? What are the junction box connector pins that the clutch handle switch uses?

Thanks so much. Boy, those Clymer schematics are a real drag.


As mentioned, it's in the clutch lever mounting bracket on the handlebar. It's used in conjunction with the neutral switch in an interlocking scheme to prevent the bike from being started if it is in gear without the clutch lever being squeezed in. There really isn't a pin on the j-box to just measure its resistance. The closest would be pin 12, but the lever would have to be squeezed in to get a completed ground-to-pin 12 reading.

Personally, I have never seen a bad or dirty start push button contact. Dirty clutch lever switch contact, yes.

Try this: If you go to start the bike and it won't crank, hold the start push button in and simultaneously "pump" the clutch lever. If it begins to crank, you've eliminated the start push button. It can be removed from the lever mount and cleaned. I prefer a white pencil eraser to burnish the contacts.

Later model schematic:


Pin 12 will go to ground with the clutch lever pulled in and to ground through the neutral switch with the clutch out. Lower right of schematic.

The starter switch can get dirty also. Try to wiggle it as you  press it or just clean it as recommended above. Pin 12 will also have 12v dc on it when the starter switch is pushed.

power flow is from the battery to the ignition switch to the cutout switch to the starter switch then to the relay box. Out of the box to the clutch switch and on to ground or the neutral switch and then ground. Any open wire or dirty switch could be the problem.

First 2 easy spots are the starter button switch and the clutch switch.

Offline Mettler1

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Re: Clutch lever starter junction box schematic puzzle.
« Reply #5 on: November 13, 2018, 05:22:55 pm »
  This is what I have always liked about COG. Members who know stuff and where to find it!!!  :great:  Been here for over 20 yrs and am still amazed of the knowledge on this forum. :) 
  Don't git no better than this!!!  :beerchug:
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Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Clutch lever starter junction box schematic puzzle.
« Reply #6 on: November 13, 2018, 08:56:30 pm »
  This is what I have always liked about COG. Members who know stuff and where to find it!!!  :great:  Been here for over 20 yrs and am still amazed of the knowledge on this forum. :) 
  Don't git no better than this!!!  :beerchug:

hahahahahah
 :)) :rotflmao: :rotflmao:

even tho Guy did teach me almost everything I know about the interlocks and Jbox, and sparky stuff.... I did stumble on the "switch cleaning", as it was the culpret on both my C10's at some time... and even after doing the quick checks on both interlocks, and cleaning them all, still had an issue with starter button "needing repeated pressings" to make a good contact... pulled them apart, sanded the ends of the spring, and the copper hat shaped 'contact' nipple,(it looks exactly like a Levies Jeans "rivet", and I always figured if I lost the Nipple, I'd try making one from an old Jeans Rivet) and the solder blob, and everything worked fine again... same issue can be found on older bikes, pertaining to the horn button, which is where I stumbled upon those "naughty bits"... :rotflmao: :rotflmao:

I guess when I mentioned it to him he may have been in a bad mood, because I was "late" for work... and he thought I was B/S'ing him, again.... :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :beerchug:

but I do admit, when in a no start scenario, I go thru both interlocks, and spray them down, bang on them, actuate them, and make sure they function..., I never even pull out a meter to see if the are working, as that takes more time, and usually just tells me I did the right thing when I cleaned them....
« Last Edit: November 13, 2018, 09:04:50 pm by MAN OF BLUES »

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Offline connieklr

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Re: Clutch lever starter junction box schematic puzzle.
« Reply #7 on: November 13, 2018, 10:01:32 pm »
I have had a button issue with my horn button - on my GPz several times; never on the Connie. Even after cleaning and burnishing the GPz's contacts, I still periodically exercised the horn on the way to work and intentionally "dithered" the contacts to help keep them clean. I know the folks that lived along my work route of a beltway thought there was some lunatic repeatedly honking his horn at 4:30 in the a.m.

But again, I have never had a start (or horn) button issue on either of my Connies, an '86 and a '95. Clutch switch yes; start button no.
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Offline LeeM

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Re: Clutch lever starter junction box schematic puzzle.
« Reply #8 on: November 13, 2018, 11:58:42 pm »
Thank you all for really helpful information about getting my Connie starting dependably.

Offline connieklr

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Re: Clutch lever starter junction box schematic puzzle.
« Reply #9 on: November 14, 2018, 10:01:51 am »
Thank you all for really helpful information about getting my Connie starting dependably.

Good luck with it, and keep us informed on what you find.
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Offline Boomer

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Re: Clutch lever starter junction box schematic puzzle.
« Reply #10 on: November 14, 2018, 07:25:14 pm »
If your horn switch keeps corroding, clean it up and the smear some dielectric grease on the surface.
When you press it will work, but will no longer corrode.
Did mine on my 89 about 8 years ago and haven't needed to clean it since.
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Offline mnbikeguy

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Re: Clutch lever starter junction box schematic puzzle.
« Reply #11 on: June 14, 2019, 08:30:10 pm »
Only reviving this thread to say thanks for this tidbit of troubleshooting knowledge. Helped me diagnose my issue in about 20 seconds and out the door in 10 minutes. Great forum!


Personally, I have never seen a bad or dirty start push button contact. Dirty clutch lever switch contact, yes.

Try this: If you go to start the bike and it won't crank, hold the start push button in and simultaneously "pump" the clutch lever. If it begins to crank, you've eliminated the start push button. It can be removed from the lever mount and cleaned. I prefer a white pencil eraser to burnish the contacts.