Author Topic: Diagnosing and fixing my horn  (Read 364 times)

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Offline Jay

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Diagnosing and fixing my horn
« on: July 16, 2018, 01:42:10 am »
The other day my horn just stopped working.  It was just after replacing my speedo cable.  I've only owned the bike for 3 months so still newbie status.
I suspect I accidentally removed the power wires to the horn.  My handlebar switch works and 12V is there and no blown fuses.
I see the horns behind the vent but reeeaallly don't want to pull my whole fairing off to get at them.  Any suggestions ?  Also tried removing the upper fairing, but it appears more complicated than first thought.   I've pull the windshield and top cover above gauges already.  Thanks.

Offline Victor Salisbury

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Re: Diagnosing and fixing my horn
« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2018, 01:25:13 pm »
If you pull the instrument cluster, you should 'see' the back of the horns, and the connectors going to the horns I believe are on your throttle side.

HTH
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Offline Jay

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Re: Diagnosing and fixing my horn
« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2018, 02:41:51 pm »
Thanks.  Can I accomplish this without removing my upper fairing ?

Offline Bob_C_CT

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Re: Diagnosing and fixing my horn
« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2018, 02:56:38 pm »
Windscreen has to come off and watch that you don’t push any of the windscreen well nuts into the body work, easy to lose them.
97 C10,ZRX Front, Meanstreak rim

Offline Victor Salisbury

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Re: Diagnosing and fixing my horn
« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2018, 03:28:20 pm »
As he said :)  The main fairing can stay in place.
 The dash cover has a single screw in the center under the windshield, so remove windshield, inner fairings (the inside pieces with the pockets), then the dash cover. Two bolts at the bottom of the gauge cluster, and just to simplify things, I remove the speedo cable from the wheel end. (I always make sure the speedo cable end at the speedometer is good and tight, it's a bear to get to and tighten sufficently when everything is installed)
The gauge wiring harness plug ends are on the right, oh yeah, when removing the dash, gotta disconnect the clock wiring harness.
To trouble shoot power to the horns, you will need to plug in the gauge wiring harness IIRC to have the ignition and bells and whistles work.
Vic Salisbury
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'97 Connie "The Grinch" 
Sarasota, FL 
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Stupid Hurts! Wearing protective gear is much more comfortable.

Offline Harry Martin

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Re: Diagnosing and fixing my horn
« Reply #5 on: July 16, 2018, 03:35:53 pm »
Umpteen years ago, mine stopped working and the problem was the horn button.
The horn button tested good, but the contacts were just dirty enough so that not enough current would operate the horn.

The fix was to clean the contacts and install a relay to power the horn controlled by the horn button.
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Offline Jay

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Re: Diagnosing and fixing my horn
« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2018, 04:03:31 pm »
Thanks All,

I have actually got to the point of removed windhield, inner fairing, top of cluster cover, but didn't get gauges removed.   That will be tonight.
I'm confident the problem is at the horn.  It worked well previously and after cleaning the switch on the bar, still nothing.   I'll confirm back once I get this done.  Cheers,

Offline Jerry R

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Re: Diagnosing and fixing my horn
« Reply #7 on: July 16, 2018, 06:58:20 pm »
I'm curious to learn what the problem turns out to be.  You refer to "horn" and to "horns" so it's not clear if you have the stock two-horn setup or something aftermarket.  If stock, it's unlikely both horns would fail at once and I would be looking for a common-point failure like a loose connector or the switch (as was mentioned). 

Did you know the switch provides the ground for the horns, not 12v?  I'm not sure seeing 12v at the switch means it's good.

Good luck and let us know...

Offline Jay

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Re: Diagnosing and fixing my horn
« Reply #8 on: July 20, 2018, 01:01:21 pm »
Problem solved.  30 minutes of removing body armor revealed the two connectors had come loose on one horn.  This disabled both stock horns (must be in series with each other or common ground).   All good now.   Yes, I read these switch on ground, not power.  Not sure why, but must have been a reason 20 years go.   Enjoying the twisty roads !!