Author Topic: Dash LED's  (Read 10232 times)

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Offline Slybones

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Dash LED's
« Reply #25 on: July 26, 2010, 11:34:00 pm »
Tim, how does it work? how long did it work?  2003 Concours, 63K  COG #6953  IBA 28004  http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm  
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Offline Tim

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Dash LED's
« Reply #26 on: July 28, 2010, 10:18:00 pm »
Well it's pretty new. Only about 6 months so far. The one I got is the extra bright version. It still isn't super bright but from what I understand it is still brighter than the original bulb. The light was out when I bought the bike. It might very well last for many years though.  
Tim - San Antonio, Tx   COG #8985  02 Concours - Murphs Bar End, Murphs Hand Grips, Cee Bailey w/vent, MCL Bar Risers  

Offline Slybones

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Dash LED's
« Reply #27 on: July 29, 2010, 02:32:00 am »
Well that's better than the LED bulb I got in my Connie clock, which was never as bright as the stock one, and has not worked in years.  2003 Concours, 63K  COG #6953  IBA 28004  http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm  
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Offline Tim

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Dash LED's
« Reply #28 on: July 29, 2010, 08:18:00 am »
There are a bunch of folks that have switched their lights for the LED's, even going so far as to change colors to Kawasaki green for their indicator lights. The ones we have used for the clock are the 74-GHP (G being the green).  
Tim - San Antonio, Tx   COG #8985  02 Concours - Murphs Bar End, Murphs Hand Grips, Cee Bailey w/vent, MCL Bar Risers  

Offline S Smith

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Dash LED's
« Reply #29 on: July 29, 2010, 10:32:00 am »
I'm behind on this thread...    Thanks Fred for updated the Tech Pages...  I wonder if the page should be renamed LED Replacement, and create another page for OEM replacement that has the correct Kaw part numbers, specifications, and acceptable replacements.    The dash bulbs are all T3 1/4 (T3.25) wedge base type series.    You can check out the Sylvania product lists here. Select the T3 1/4 type.  Sylvania miniature bulb products      GE has a similar product listing  GE miniature bulb T3 1/4 product listing          
« Last Edit: July 29, 2010, 01:22:00 pm by SSmith_3184 »
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Offline Slybones

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Dash LED's
« Reply #30 on: July 29, 2010, 10:45:00 am »
Steve, on the tech pages....    The one under C10->Instruments->Dash Light Replacement could/should be renamed to have LED in it, since that is what the page is for. This page was not updated.    Under C10->General->light Bulbs, this is the page I updated. Perhaps this page should have a menu under C10->Instruments too, since many might just look for it there. However since its also all bulbs and not just instrument bulbs, I also like having it in C10->General like it is now.    Thoughts?  2003 Concours, 63K  COG #6953  IBA 28004  http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm  
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Offline S Smith

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Dash LED's
« Reply #31 on: July 29, 2010, 11:22:00 am »
Fred -     Never saw that page under General as I looked under Electrical first... Wonder if the Batteries & Bulbs items under General should be moved to Electrical?  Further wonder if Instrument Lighting should also be under Electrical... or maybe it is better to have a Lighting section?    I agree about adding the "LED" to the one title to clarify the tech item.    Cross linking the two bulb pages (adding links on each page to the other) may be another good option          
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Offline S Smith

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Dash LED's
« Reply #32 on: July 29, 2010, 12:16:00 pm »
Consider rated hours.  500 hours life works out to ~27500 miles (@55 MPH), while 4000 hours works out to 220000 miles. Based on this, Fred's usage of 161 is a wise choice.    Here are T3 1/4 Sylvania incandescent bulb ratings.    Bulb#   Volts   Watts   Amp     MSCD    Rated Life  158     14      3.4     0.24    2       500  161     14      2.7     0.19    1       4,000+  168     14      4.9     0.35    3       1500  193     14      4.6     0.33    2       5000  194     14      3.8     0.27    2       2500  194LL   14      4.6     0.33    2       5000  194NA   14      3.8     0.27    1.5     2500  658     14      1.12    0.08    0.31    15000  2841    24      3.0     0.125   1.76    1000  464     28      4.8     0.17    3       1500  656     28      1.7     0.06    0.62    2500  657     28      2.24    0.08    0.62    15000              
« Last Edit: July 29, 2010, 02:20:00 pm by SSmith_3184 »
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Offline Tim

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Dash LED's
« Reply #33 on: July 29, 2010, 11:06:00 pm »
The 74-xHP bulbs have a 10,000 hr lifespan. That makes it 550,000 miles. I think it rules out ;)  
Tim - San Antonio, Tx   COG #8985  02 Concours - Murphs Bar End, Murphs Hand Grips, Cee Bailey w/vent, MCL Bar Risers  

Offline John

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Re: Dash LED's
« Reply #34 on: June 23, 2011, 09:46:47 pm »
Folks:

I've been running LEDs in the dash for well over 6 months with no problems at all, but it took me awhile to get to that point.  This is the start of what I did: 
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2632594960053698080ZBfunX     and just go on the next pic.   For my final setup, I removed all the metal shields and use only the original four places for a LED bulb.  As to which bulbs, the one shown with the most led's,  25 I think, and you can find them on Ebay.

There is a better slideshow on this here:  https://picasaweb.google.com/johcar44/ConcoursPics#5508812886970773762

 
tcars
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Offline Smooooth

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Re: Dash LED's
« Reply #35 on: September 18, 2012, 08:27:43 am »
Figured this thread could use a update.

OK....... This information will probably age quickly, but here goes.... The 'Dash' lights, both White(for the indicators) and Green(for the gauges) were acquired on Ebay. Search for "T10 194 168 W5W Wedge 5050 5 SMD LED". A package of 10(each) out of China for $4.49 with free shipping - Total $8.98. Then I went to superbrightleds.com and ordered 2 '74-GHP' (G for Green) for the Clock - $7.97 shipped. 22 LEDS for $16.87 - 2 bikes worth at $8.44 for each bike so cozy up with a friend.

Stephen
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Offline Dragoon

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Re: Dash LED's
« Reply #36 on: September 18, 2012, 12:53:05 pm »
I bought a pack of ten blue LEDs for my dash. After reading many posts on the site, I changed all bulbs BUT those in the main indicator bar: turn, oil, high beam and neutral. I like the look of the blue lights and they work very well. As they are seemingly on the same bus as the incandescent lights I did not change, there is more then enough current draw that you need not load balance the dash. Total cost was about $6.00 deliverers. I found them on eBay simply by doing a search for LEDs for concours.

Just FYI.

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Offline Dragoon

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Re: Dash LED's
« Reply #37 on: September 18, 2012, 09:03:18 pm »
I bought a pack of ten blue LEDs for my dash. After reading many posts on the site, I changed all bulbs BUT those in the main indicator bar: turn, oil, high beam and neutral. I like the look of the blue lights and they work very well. As they are seemingly on the same bus as the incandescent lights I did not change, there is more then enough current draw that you need not load balance the dash. Total cost was about $6.00 deliverers. I found them on eBay simply by doing a search for LEDs for concours.

Just FYI.

Cheers
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Offline JimBob

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Re: Dash LED's
« Reply #38 on: September 19, 2012, 07:36:50 pm »
Like Dragoon I changed all my gauge bulbs to blue LED's (heck, I think I got the info from him!). They were like ten bucks for a package of 20 on fleabay. I also got green led for the clock (this WAS your post wasn't it Dragoon?). I only needed one, but it was like $5 for a ten pack, delivered.

My dash looks TONS better, and was much brighter. That being said, with presbyopia setting in (I'm in my 40's, so need to wear reading glasses for smaller print/close work), I'm finding an unusual circumstance where the blue lights are actually harder to read at night (more blurry) than other colors. I can tell it's color specific from experiments. I'm going to tinker some more and see if red will fix it. During the day I can read the gauges and my GPS (on the tank) through my reading glasses. At night, I can't read the gauges through the glasses, but can still read GPS. This occurred on the test ride after changing the bulbs, so I'm pretty sure it's a color/spectrum issue (and knowing that men often have impaired sensitivity to blue and green may play into it)..

A note on Wattage, Current, Voltage, etc..let's make sure we're comparing apples to oranges.

Voltage = the "pressure" of the ElectroMotive Force

Amperage  = Roughly equivalent to the "volume" of electricity available, and being "pushed" by the pressure of voltage (terribly analogy, but the best I got) Devices "draw" current to the level of the resistance.

Wattage = the Power consumption (or output) of a device. Equal to voltage times current.

Here's where it gets sticky. Notice that Wattage is power consumption OR power output of a device. With light emitting devices both measures are useful (it's a measure of efficiency - the closer the output is to the consumption, in the visible wavelengths the more efficient a bulb).

What makes such a difference between incandescent (bulbs which use a direct short in the bulb to heat up a filament, which then emits radiation) and LEDS's (semiconductors with a small gap between the conductor material, which when an electron "jumps" the gap it changes energy states and emits a photon) is that incandescent bulbs suffer from typical black-body radiation limitations - that energy is emitted in wavelengths all over the spectrum, including wavelengths we can't see. Ever put your hand out close to a light bulb that was just turned off? Your hand feels warmth because your skin is a UV "sensor", and the bulb is still emitting UV energy.

LED's however, emit a very narrow range of light frequency, and practically no heat.

So what does this mean for us? An incandescent and an LED of equivalent power consumption will have vastly different power emission in the visible spectrum. LED's will emit more visible light at a given power consumption rating than an equivalent incandescent. This is why you can often use a lower-rated bulb for the same job (though it can be tricky to work out, since the fixtures are designed for incandescents, expecting a broader range of light colors to be emitted).

Sorry for the tome...corrections welcome from any EE's on here (I am NOT one!, Just a hobbyist).



Offline Dragoon

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Re: Dash LED's
« Reply #39 on: September 20, 2012, 02:42:32 am »
As  a PEng myself, I would say you are only 99.937204% correct. The error comes, as you elude to but do not expand upon, in the wavelength of the light. Blue is at the short end of the visable spectrum and red at the high end. Therefore, you will seemingly get more light from a red LED package while consuming the same minute amount of power. Thus, with red LEDs it will seem like you see more and in fact you do, However, AND THIS IS THE CAVIOT , the detail you see will be less. Hence red dash light are used for less strain on the eye and closer to the 670nm wavelength , visable blue, will strain your eyes more. However, this effect will only begin to take its toll after about 10.5 hours of driving. This is purely a mathematical thesis as my wife won't let me drive that long in the dark fearing that i am actually at my girlfriends place and not riding.


That's all I have to say about that >:(
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Offline JimBob

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Re: Dash LED's
« Reply #40 on: September 24, 2012, 11:31:14 am »
As  a PEng myself, I would say you are only 99.937204% correct. The error comes, as you elude to but do not expand upon, in the wavelength of the light. Blue is at the short end of the visable spectrum and red at the high end. Therefore, you will seemingly get more light from a red LED package while consuming the same minute amount of power. Thus, with red LEDs it will seem like you see more and in fact you do, However, AND THIS IS THE CAVIOT , the detail you see will be less. Hence red dash light are used for less strain on the eye and closer to the 670nm wavelength , visable blue, will strain your eyes more. However, this effect will only begin to take its toll after about 10.5 hours of driving. This is purely a mathematical thesis as my wife won't let me drive that long in the dark fearing that i am actually at my girlfriends place and not riding.


That's all I have to say about that >:(

First, PEng?

Interesting stuff - yea, I was thinking of the color issue mostly that I was only seeing a much more limited spectrum of light, instead of the full spectrum (i.e. daylight), so my brain is more capable of compensating with the broader range of light input during the day (or I'm relying on contrast during the day, rather than color, since our eyes/visual cortex have a powerful ability to infer using monochrome/contrast data). This would explain why I can read my GPS at very low brightness (perceptually less than the gauges), since there's a broader color spectrum, notably white/off white, and relatively high contrast (gauges are dark black/blue background and then MORE INTENSE BLUE numbers and needle).

Trenchfighter is sending me the wiring setup from his parted out gauge cluster - I'm going to 'speriment with MOAR BULBS (yea, I know, essentially reverting back to the factory current levels), but I like the monochrome look, and blue REALLY modernizes the bike. (So I'll be drillin additional holes in the back of the gauge cluster...nah, what could go wrong? :p )

Re: you're wife worried that your at the GF's rather than riding...doesn't she know that the  bike is FAR more preferable, since she doesn't complain and does everything you ask of her? Why would you trade that for a GF?!  :rotflmao:

Offline Dragoon

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Re: Dash LED's
« Reply #41 on: September 24, 2012, 12:58:44 pm »
PEng is a professional designation that you test for after about 10 years practicing. If you get the designation them you do minor tests every 5 toile sure you are up todate on the dicipline you practice. I deal in fiber optics. I get asked a lot about it here in the states. Maybe it is more of a Canadian and European thing as having a PEng get you better jobs and better $$$

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Paul
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