Author Topic: Electrical. How to run power from battery/Junction box to front of Connie 10  (Read 820 times)

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Offline croach1776

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I have grip warmers that came with bike but were disconnected before I purchased it.  I would like to run power to the front of the Connie
that would allow for multiple devices access to power. I think that power should not be available to these devices until bike is started.


Are there previous posts that cover this or a website I can checkout. thx
C K Roach Jr  IBA#42837  SS-K  COG#9094  CDA# 0319  AMA# 2704431 _ "you cant lose what you never had"  2005 Concour "Gold Rush"  - Suzuki C50 Boulevard - 1983 Suzuki GS750ES - Sold  1982 Suzuki GS650G - Sold

Offline Bob_C_CT

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Murphkits has a headlight upgrade that takes the headlight power directly from the battery instead of the anemic Jbox and allows you to run a higher watt 100 headlight bulb because of the upgraded bulb socket. It also has an auxiliary power lead.
https://www.murphskits.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_92&products_id=102&osCsid=HVmJHY-7o2TboVrwYt2qm2

Murph is a good guy, he's one of us, ships fast too.

Another option which I ran across from a fellow member is a Fuzeblock, you can decide which leads you want on all the time or when bike is running (unswitched/ switched)
https://www.amazon.com/Fuzeblocks-FZ-1-power-distribution-block/dp/B00L3OJW4C/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_pb_opt?ie=UTF8
« Last Edit: April 07, 2020, 10:25:19 pm by Bob_C_CT »
Southern Connecticut.
97 C10,ZRX Front, Meanstreak rim

Online m in sc

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yeah just run a regular 30A relay. easy as pie.

fused hot lead off battery, to relay 'in'

switched 12v in fairing harness, off of something (running, lights, whatever), ground other leg. out to the heated gear. bam. switched power relay. done. any auto store has these relays.
I break stuff. I fix stuff. (rinse & repeat as necessary)

Offline Boomer

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I ran some fat wire (1.5mm²) via a 30A fuse from the battery to an 8 way fuse-box mounted to the fairing sub-frame.
From that fuse-box I have powered the heated grips via a relay triggered by ignition on, a plethora of running and spot lights via relays (triggered by Running/Headlight on and by high-beam), and my phone holder/charger and the cigarette lighter socket directly.
That way I can plug in the Optimate via the cigarette lighter socket and can leave the phone charging if needed, but everything else is switched by relays.
I was an Electronics engineer so wiring is easy-peasy for me.  :)
George "Boomer" Garratt
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Offline Larry_Buck_FL

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This link will give you several ways to do what you want. 

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/piaa-510-installation-tips.328227/
Larry Buck - COG 3451, Retired SE-AD, now SE-AAD, Ex - Concourier C-10 Tech Editor, COG National Safety Officer, IBA 5581, MSF-Rider Coach, Forum moderator.

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Offline RWulf

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If memory is correct, you can use the brown wire found in the main harness as
a switch source. It will only have power when the key is in the run position.
The power lead directly from the battery should have a fuse, maybe 20 amp or
so, close to the positive battery terminal. Many of us have used automotive
5 pin relays found at auto parts store. Some have diagram of relay terminals and
how they function.

Offline konehead

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The auxiliary fuseblocks on the market have both constant hot and switched circuitsas your needs dictate.  Difinstely dont t tap into the aux power leads in the rubber boot in the front right wire bundle.  The J box is pretty notorious for failing when over loaded.  But if u need one repaired larry buck(industry member) is the guy to see..

Online m in sc

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its 4 wires and a fuse. super easy.

I break stuff. I fix stuff. (rinse & repeat as necessary)

Offline Derick

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I have, for reasons unknown to me, been very good with 12V accessory power.

My setup is as follows but basically follow the outlines of previous posts in this thread;

30A Relay > 6 circuit fuse block w/ built in ground strip > individual circuits, mostly 5 amp fuses, but I have a 15A for heated gear

I like the individual circuits, if something blows, I know what it is to start troubleshooting. All my wiring is loomed and tied underneath the center fuel tank support. The circut block resides underneath the right side panel beside the battery. I have two sets of driving lights, GPS, heated gear, accessory side marker lights, trunk lights, and rear spot lights (for camp site setup).

Parts are readily available at oreilly auto.

This is my current block:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/standard-ignition-5753/lighting---electrical-16777/fuses-16615/fuse-blocks--universal--18449/b381070c3b6b/standard-ignition-fuse-block/fh23/5807625?q=fuse+blocks+%28universal%29&pos=18

Prior to this, I did have a blue sea systems marine grade block as seen here. If you have the money, these are very nice:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Blocks/dp/B01BXTXV1Q

This all works fine, and if you go the oreilly route, the relay and block set me back like 17 bucks. I really dont know why it says 60+ dollars on the oreilly site right now. They may just be out of stock? I dunno.

Now.... this is the stone age way.

On my goldwing I put one of these:
http://pdm60.com/

The PDM 60 is super configurable and really is the next generation of power distribution. I happened to stumble on one second hand, so I used it....but I very well may buy one for the connie. It will drastically cut down on wiring and space consumption. It really is the new wave. If you can afford it, I highly recommend one of these bad boys.
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2006 Honda Goldwing 1800///GWRRA#:398646

Offline croach1776

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Thanks all good ideas. The PDM60 or AMPLINK definitely in the future if I get back into long distance riding.  Your fuse box suggestions is probably way to go as that would at least give me the basics of getting idea of total amperage overhead available on Connie. Thanks
C K Roach Jr  IBA#42837  SS-K  COG#9094  CDA# 0319  AMA# 2704431 _ "you cant lose what you never had"  2005 Concour "Gold Rush"  - Suzuki C50 Boulevard - 1983 Suzuki GS750ES - Sold  1982 Suzuki GS650G - Sold

Offline Derick

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There are some alternator upgrade options if you want to go to ~125 amps, if I remember right. The stock concours is less...like under 100 if I remember right. Don't quote me on that, some of the super old timers will chime in and harshly correct my numbers. I dont run too much stuff sustained. If I am running the heated gear during the day, I'll kill the riding lights. I'm not worried about the GPS or the little stuff...but I will be conscious when I have the hotwired stuff on. That does eat up a lot of power.
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Offline Nosmo

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I installed a Blue Sea box, and regret it.  It cost waaaay to much and takes up a ton of room on the right side of the battery box.  Better way is the cheap unit from NAPA or O'Reilly, very small and very economical.  That's what I used later on the Wee-Strom.  Six circuits, 30-amps total, with a separate 30-amp relay, works great.  Be Sure to run the ground wire from the stud directly to the battery negative terminal, keeps the ground path as short as least-resistive as possible.
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Offline tdbru

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croach1776
be sure to use the relay.  so that you don't need to worry about shutting off the bike and forgetting an accessory is on.  and draining the battery.  i put "hotgrips" on through a relay.  another thing to do, if you want to load up your Connie with electrical stuff is to switch out all the bulbs to LEDs.  except for the headlight i switched every single one out to LEDs.  i think if i recall they took 1/4 of what an incandescent bulb does.  each.  it adds up quickly.  frees up some power for other farkles.  http://www.superlumination.com/ and they had all the bulb types.  not sure yet if a LED replacement is even available for our C10s.  if so i might need to try it out.  and get your Junction box sent off for a fixup to Larry Buck.  really worth the peace of mind.  our former NWAD had his C10 jbox give up on him on a multiday ride. 
-tdbru

Offline JPD

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I put on a fuse panel that murphs used to sell. It fit in the left side panel and was relay controlled with a 30 amp main fuse and six fused positive leads and connections for six grounds. The relay used a "t" splice into the rear brake light switch. It was made with male- female bullet connections so it was a no cut connection. The brake switch is only powered when the key is on.

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Offline croach1776

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Thanks for all the input. Have a lot of good ideas. First step might be to maximize avaiable amp. Will need to research if any LED lights available for C10. After that decide on best and most cost effective way to add power outlet for auxillaries.  There are heated grips that PO installed but wiring doesnt look right from research I have done. They installed a three position switch on left hand glove box lie HI OFF LOW.
One of the leads from heater should have resistor for the HIGH side. One lead should be for power and the other for LOW. will need to remove grips to see why he has three leads coming from heaters. Each heater has a power lead (red) and two white leads that could be ground and contoller (High or Low). Need to find out if they even work LOL. Other that that next auxillary might be some tunes and GPS.
C K Roach Jr  IBA#42837  SS-K  COG#9094  CDA# 0319  AMA# 2704431 _ "you cant lose what you never had"  2005 Concour "Gold Rush"  - Suzuki C50 Boulevard - 1983 Suzuki GS750ES - Sold  1982 Suzuki GS650G - Sold

Offline RWulf

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I have never seen grip heaters with 3 leads at the grip. Could be but.
Most likely you have a ground lead, meant to be grounded to maybe
the frame. One of the other leads will measure a lower resistance to
the ground lead. The other will measure a higher resistance to the
ground lead. If indeed that is the way it is then the lead that measures
the lowest resistance to ground would connect to the switch terminal
that has power when the switch is in the hi position. The remaining
lead would connect to the terminal for the low position. Then the
common (usually the middle terminal) connects to the 12 volt source.
Once you figure out the leads you may connect similar leads to the
switch terminals.

Offline Derick

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Yeah I've not see a 3 wire grip either. Most heated gear uses a potentiometer to pulse 12V to the elements. So it's much more adjustable versus Low-Off-Hi.

In such a setting, you would have ground, and then 12V to the potentiometer input and then the potentiometer output to the grips. Something is hinkey here.

I know plenty of people that are pro heated grips, I don't think they're worth crap. My wing has the comfort package, so I have a heated seat, and heated grips and neither replace or come near to heated gear. If you're thinking of riding in lower temp conditions, I would suggest a pair of headed gloves....and get the nice comfy grips from murphs. Just sayin.
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Offline croach1776

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I think I'll take pics
C K Roach Jr  IBA#42837  SS-K  COG#9094  CDA# 0319  AMA# 2704431 _ "you cant lose what you never had"  2005 Concour "Gold Rush"  - Suzuki C50 Boulevard - 1983 Suzuki GS750ES - Sold  1982 Suzuki GS650G - Sold