Author Topic: Fairing  (Read 2541 times)

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Offline 02Conni

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Fairing
« on: November 10, 2010, 12:51:08 pm »
Hello...I have a 2002 Kawasaki Concours. The other day while I was riding, I noticed that the fairing was pretty loose. I don't think it is danger of falling off but I am conerned about how loose it is.

Can anyone tell me how I can resecure the fairing?

Thanks

Tod
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Offline WillyP

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Re: Fairing
« Reply #1 on: November 10, 2010, 01:04:00 pm »
Maybe your front fairing head stay is loose, or broken.  Very common.  The front fairing will bounce up and down, if it's loose, and sag big time if broken.  Eventually it will break the tabs where it connects to the side fairing.   The bracket welded to the head tub is weak.  Look down inside between the ignition switch and the dash.
In the bottom left corner of this pic, the bolt is 130c and the nut 92015:
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Offline 02Conni

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Re: Fairing
« Reply #2 on: November 10, 2010, 01:40:27 pm »
Thanks for the info.

I didn't see a picture. Did you mean to attach one?

Could you re-post it?

Thanks
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Offline Wess

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Re: Fairing
« Reply #3 on: November 10, 2010, 02:49:15 pm »
Thanks for the info.

I didn't see a picture. Did you mean to attach one?

Could you re-post it?

Thanks

go to ron ayers, do his fiche to find your bike, and the pic is under cowling
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Offline 2linby

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Re: Fairing
« Reply #4 on: November 10, 2010, 04:33:26 pm »
I took the fiche willyp dropped in and focused on the fairing mount he is discussing. This is probably the point of contact that may have failed. On the headstem there is a welded on tab that this fairing frame is bolted to. If it is broke it can be re welded, but you have to make sure the head stem does not get too hot during the welding, and or remove the head bearings (now would be the time to replace them).

Best of luck!

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Offline WillyP

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Re: Fairing
« Reply #5 on: November 10, 2010, 05:19:45 pm »
Even if you do remove the bearings, excessive heat is still an issue.  If the head tube gets too hot it could warp out of round... then your screwed.  Frame builders use a solid plug in the hole to insure roundness, or machine the ends after welding.

However, welding a strap over the mount to reinforce it should not be an issue, as far as cooking the bearings or warping the metal.
« Last Edit: November 10, 2010, 05:21:59 pm by WillyP »
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Offline 2fast

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Re: Fairing
« Reply #6 on: November 25, 2010, 03:42:09 am »
I had mine welded by a skilled TIG (or was it MIG) welder, using Steve Pronto's replacement lug. There is no problem with heat, especially if it is not rushed. You can also stop halfway through and wet rag the top and bottom of the tube if you want to be even more careful.

I scratched in some registration/location marks on my tube to help position the new lug after I ground off the remains of the old junk. Afterwards, I hit it with some spray paint, and it is good to go. The new one will NEVER break.

Photos of the process.......click here http://good-times.webshots.com/album/556319820QrfnGK
Brian in Minnesota

Offline GSGSXJay

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Re: Fairing
« Reply #7 on: November 26, 2010, 12:04:30 am »
Photos of the process.......click here http://good-times.webshots.com/album/556319820QrfnGK

Nice pictures of the process 2fast.  Thanks.
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Offline C. Moore

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Re: Fairing
« Reply #8 on: November 26, 2010, 10:47:50 am »
Hopefully the bolt just rattled loose and fell out. That's what happened on my '02. Any hardware store or Lowes/Home Depot will have the hardware you need to fix it
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Offline WillyP

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Re: Fairing
« Reply #9 on: November 28, 2010, 03:07:39 pm »
You should still reinforce that bracket welded to the head,  too many people have had it break.  And it does a lot of damage to the plastic if it droops.  As 2fast said, take your time and don't let the head get too hot.

Another issue that some have reported is the bolt being slightly loose, and the threads 'sawing' through the bracket.  So it might be a good idea to get a longer bolt with a shoulder as long as the thickness of the bracket.  You can use washers if the shoulder is a bit too long, or a die and cut threads into the shoulder to make it just the right length.   The cut off the excess bolt after the nut is on.
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Offline Uncle Leo

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Re: Fairing
« Reply #10 on: May 05, 2013, 01:05:54 am »
Yes, you can use a (130) bolt with a little longer shoulder, like I had to and take up the excess space to the nut with washers.
I also used a lock nut.

Offline Hazy

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Re: Fairing
« Reply #11 on: May 05, 2013, 03:25:46 am »
When I got Mae home after rescuing her from PO, you could lift the front fairing a good 1-2 inches. Took everything apart and found the head stay bold was completely loose and the wrong size. Being so loose, it did break off some tabs. So I went to Lowes, got a properly fitting Allen head bolt, washers, and lock nut. The bought a PlastiFix kit and rebuilt the tabs. Put it all back together and she's nice and tight.

One thing I have not seen mentioned in these fairing posts is the fact that the main fairing, lowers, and the pan work as a system. Making sure that all bolts/screws are secure to all pieces will definitely help in solidifying the entire fairing.
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Offline WillyP

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Re: Fairing
« Reply #12 on: May 05, 2013, 12:02:55 pm »
True, they all help steady each other, but the head stay bracket takes the most of the weight. The upper fairing along with all the brackets, the bracing, headlight, gauge panel, horns, windshield, etc... all that adds up to a lot of weight.

The bolt in my '88 was tight. It was the right size. But the bracket just ripped out one day while riding fast on some rough roads. It gave me very little warning... I did notice the fairing seemed to bouncing more than it should, but I guess at that point the bracket had broke and only the tabs were holding it up. That didn't last long, and I had to use some wire to try to tie it up to get back to camp and ride home after the rally.

This is what it looked like after I took it apart. The tube that was spot welded in this bracket, as well as the bolt, was still in the fairing stay, the bolt was not loose.

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