Author Topic: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped  (Read 2175 times)

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Offline VTconnie

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #25 on: September 11, 2017, 07:41:54 pm »
Don't do stupid things like drilling the hole out... that's rediculous....
 :-[ ::) :-[ ::)

But do install a thread insert kit, first drilling the hole out..
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Online MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #26 on: September 12, 2017, 03:19:24 am »
Don't do stupid things like drilling the hole out... that's rediculous....
 :-[ ::) :-[ ::)

But do install a thread insert kit, first drilling the hole out..

First off, buying the thread insert kit, and knowing the bit size..... but I can't tell from your post what you meant.... ::)


Ok, lll bite.... what size... 3/8", maybe 7/16"... are you just throwing gas on a fire, or trying to be so what helpful?

I can't decide.....

I guess my origjnal statement that got the Duder upset does apply.


The Dude abides.



I used to get paid by COG to do this tech crap... and regardless of how much they paid me, I gave info on a level that was concise, and proper..
Now I don't get that big paycheck from COG.. soo if it appears I'm a bit trite, I really don't. Hoot..

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« Last Edit: September 12, 2017, 03:28:54 am by MAN OF BLUES »

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Offline VTconnie

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #27 on: September 12, 2017, 03:35:54 pm »
So you won't do something well, if you arn't getting paid enough..
« Last Edit: September 12, 2017, 03:40:40 pm by VTconnie »
<--2003 Concours C-10 "Conifer", -AKA- The Cruise Missile
1980 CB900C DOHC "Old Iron" -AKA- The Hill Climber                

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #28 on: September 12, 2017, 08:01:18 pm »
COG is always looking for tech guru's, I suggest you volunteeeeer...

And don't dis what you have never done.... :-X

Over and out.

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Offline Thud300

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #29 on: September 12, 2017, 11:10:55 pm »
I'm sure given enough time, someone will mention using JB Weld as a repair...   :rotflmao: :rotflmao:

Dammit, you beat me to it  :D

When I did my front tire, going to 24 ft/lb felt like it was going to be strip city, so I settled for gutenteit with a dab of blue loctite.

My .02, if it were supposed to be a through hole, Ma Kaw would have made it that way, and there's a good reason it's not.
However, on my Voyager, it is a through hole with nut and washer, by design. But that's a Voyager, not a Concours, so...

I'll be sittin on the fence over here  :popcorn:
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Offline Stasch

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #30 on: September 13, 2017, 10:55:49 am »
Quote
I always dislike it when I find a PO has done a repair by non-standard methods

+1,000
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Offline Herbie

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #31 on: September 13, 2017, 04:22:44 pm »
You guys crack me up, well as I see it you have two options for a REPAIR. First would be to put a thread insert into the hole ie timesert or helicoil which mamma kaw didn't have in it from the factory or a longer bolt and nut which mamma kaw didn't have in it from the factory at least not in the connie. So neither of these options will work to suit those who want to keep it original. So your only real choice for the purist is to replace the forks with a good used set. There that was pretty easy!  :nananana:

All kidding aside, the only real difference between the two repairs is cosmetic. If you don't like the nut showing then put a thread insert into it. Both repairs will accomplish what was intended, which is to pinch the bottom of the fork tube against the axle.

Some like their peanut butter crunchy and some like it smoooooth, we are all different, some a little more than others  :))

Offline The Dude

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #32 on: September 13, 2017, 06:46:01 pm »
No need to drill both halves of the clamping section.
With the fork removed, or even just the wheel, the lower tube can be rotated and the correct hole can be drilled from front, into the section the insert goes into.
You can install the helicoil facing forward from the rear into the freshly tapped hole (helicoil taps are bottoming taps, so it will fully tap witout needing to modify the front half to clear) and then break off the tab from the rear, using a pin punch.. done deal.
The inserts I noted in my thread, with a link, are very low cost, I've used timeserts, and also keenserts, when the company is footing the bill, because both those systems are very expensive comparing to a simple helicoil.

This is great information, especially removing the wheel to twist the tube around.  Thank you, MOB.  And just to be sure I understand correctly: drill from the front*, tap from the rear, and helicoil inserted from the rear so that the tab is somewhere in the middle of the rear half before being broken off. 

(*) The front, non-threaded hole measures 13/32" with my calipers, which is the same size of the drill bit to be used with the helicoil.  Since I won't be using a drill press, is there anything I can do to prevent marring up that front hole a little bit?

My Autozone had every size of Helicoil kit EXCEPT M10x1.25.  Go figure.  E-bay to the rescue.  I should be ridin' or cryin' by Saturday afternoon.

As for the option of boring out the hole and using a nut on the backside;  if I had to ride it right away, I wouldn't hesitate to go that route knowing I could replace the lower tube eventually.  But I have other modes of transportation, and I've got the time to do it right.

Dude out.
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Offline m in sc

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #33 on: September 13, 2017, 07:22:26 pm »
helicoil is fine on aluminum, ive done tons of edelbrock intakes... lol.  as said, either method is fine.

2 points to consider:

helicoil kits aren't super cheap per-say.
the bolt thru the hole is actually stronger, but you have the cosmetic compromise, and you should drill the bad threaded section out to MOBs point IF you go this way.


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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #34 on: September 13, 2017, 08:20:14 pm »
No need to drill both halves of the clamping section.
With the fork removed, or even just the wheel, the lower tube can be rotated and the correct hole can be drilled from front, into the section the insert goes into.
You can install the helicoil facing forward from the rear into the freshly tapped hole (helicoil taps are bottoming taps, so it will fully tap witout needing to modify the front half to clear) and then break off the tab from the rear, using a pin punch.. done deal.
The inserts I noted in my thread, with a link, are very low cost, I've used timeserts, and also keenserts, when the company is footing the bill, because both those systems are very expensive comparing to a simple helicoil.

This is great information, especially removing the wheel to twist the tube around.  Thank you, MOB.  And just to be sure I understand correctly: drill from the front*, tap from the rear, and helicoil inserted from the rear so that the tab is somewhere in the middle of the rear half before being broken off. 

(*) The front, non-threaded hole measures 13/32" with my calipers, which is the same size of the drill bit to be used with the helicoil.  Since I won't be using a drill press, is there anything I can do to prevent marring up that front hole a little bit?

My Autozone had every size of Helicoil kit EXCEPT M10x1.25.  Go figure.  E-bay to the rescue.  I should be ridin' or cryin' by Saturday afternoon.

As for the option of boring out the hole and using a nut on the backside;  if I had to ride it right away, I wouldn't hesitate to go that route knowing I could replace the lower tube eventually.  But I have other modes of transportation, and I've got the time to do it right.

Dude out.

I'm sorry, I may have been a bit confusing in my explanation of the drill and tap thing...
When I say spin the fork tube, and machine from the front, I actually meen to do all the drilling and tapping on the rear of that fork tube, when its spun around and facing forwards, just for simplicity, and accessability...
And yes also to the insertion of that insert, screw it in from the backside, with the "tang" that gets snapped off, facing the middle of the forks
The insertion tool in that kit should work fine, I think it can be installed in the manner I'm saying, and still be able to break off the tang,  when these insertss are installed, they are kinda directional, as they are "sprung" out a bit, and during the install, the twisting compresses the threads to fit the tap surfaces.. you will see this when you actually have the parts in hand. Best of luck, and I sincerely wish you success on this repair, sorry things got so disjointed, stuff happens man, we all can learn from it tho, that's the good part...
 :great:

Oh, that multi size insert kit I linked in my post has 3 of the sizes most needed, I'll stop at my store and see if they have it on the shelf, I was certain they did last time I was in there looking for some coil thread repair kits..   $7 seemed a no brainer for me...

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Offline connie_rider

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #35 on: September 14, 2017, 02:06:20 pm »
(*) The front, non-threaded hole measures 13/32" with my calipers, which is the same size of the drill bit to be used with the helicoil.  Since I won't be using a drill press, is there anything I can do to prevent marring up that front hole a little bit?

Dude, you have to do the install as MOB said. {From the side opposite the unthreaded hole)
Because; If the heli-coill drill bit is the same size as the non threaded hole, The heli-coil Tap is bigger than the hole...

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Offline JimBob

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #36 on: September 14, 2017, 04:20:04 pm »
Don't do stupid things like drilling the hole out... that's rediculous....
 :-[ ::) :-[ ::)

But do install a thread insert kit, first drilling the hole out..

First off, buying the thread insert kit, and knowing the bit size..... but I can't tell from your post what you meant.... ::)


Ok, lll bite.... what size... 3/8", maybe 7/16"... are you just throwing gas on a fire, or trying to be so what helpful?

I can't decide.....

I guess my origjnal statement that got the Duder upset does apply.


The Dude abides.



I used to get paid by COG to do this tech crap... and regardless of how much they paid me, I gave info on a level that was concise, and proper..
Now I don't get that big paycheck from COG.. soo if it appears I'm a bit trite, I really don't. Hoot..

COG earnings from tech....... $0.00

Expenses out of my wallet for phone bills, perssonal time, fixing bikes at rallies, and other such nonsense...

Don't ask,






Well if it's all so frustrating to you, maybe you should do something else.




BTW, you haven't answered my or the question here, about drilling out the hole. You're responses are rather inconsistent.




Offline Zorlac

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #37 on: September 14, 2017, 07:28:35 pm »
Quote
I always dislike it when I find a PO has done a repair by non-standard methods

+1,000
You shoulda crawled under the 15yr old Toyota minivan I traded in a few years back.  :rotflmao: :rotflmao:

You mean like this?
« Last Edit: September 14, 2017, 07:33:57 pm by Zorlac »
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Offline The Dude

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #38 on: September 16, 2017, 06:39:59 am »
Well, the helicoil kit came in a day early, and I am happy to report that everything went smoothly following MOB's clarified instructions.  I believe what one or two others said here about the repaired hole being stronger than the original - the original bolt is a snug fit in that helicoil.  Thanks to all.
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Offline connie_rider

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #39 on: September 16, 2017, 01:39:50 pm »
That MOB is a hellofaguy.
Gives us lots of helpful information...
Grumpy sometimes, but still a hellofaguy!

{Pleased don't tell him I sed somethin' nice about him}    :nananana:

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #40 on: September 16, 2017, 06:34:20 pm »
Well, the helicoil kit came in a day early, and I am happy to report that everything went smoothly following MOB's clarified instructions.  I believe what one or two others said here about the repaired hole being stronger than the original - the original bolt is a snug fit in that helicoil.  Thanks to all.

 :great: :great:

Thank you for reporting back of your success, I do apreciate that.
I've always tried to give the simpleist, and most viable options to folks that need to do a job they never did before, and as old and grumpy as I am, its sometimes misconstrued..
And again, sorry we got off on the wrong foot on this.

Having done these repairs many times over, and in the learning process had "failures" based on my inexperience, or lack of faith in someone elses directions, I can say we never stop learning procedures that work...

Glad it all worked out
 :beerchug:

Oh, BTW, Ted was the one that suggested JB Weld... he uses it on everything... :nananana:

Just kidding... :rotflmao:
« Last Edit: September 16, 2017, 06:37:51 pm by MAN OF BLUES »

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Offline connie_rider

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #41 on: September 16, 2017, 10:34:11 pm »
Actually,,, I prefer bailing wire and Duc tape...

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Offline Grant

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #42 on: September 17, 2017, 04:10:53 am »
Actually,,, I prefer bailing wire and Duc tape...

Ride safe, Ted
If the girls don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy  :rotflmao:
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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #43 on: September 17, 2017, 06:00:39 am »
Actually,,, I prefer bailing wire and Duc tape...

Ride safe, Ted
If the girls don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy  :rotflmao:


A,ll I can say is duct tape rules. :))
« Last Edit: September 17, 2017, 11:36:32 pm by MAN OF BLUES »

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Offline Jim

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Re: Front axle clamp bolt hole is stripped
« Reply #44 on: September 19, 2017, 10:36:23 am »
David,
When this spirited discussion(?) is all done, you probably should verify your torque wrench is accurate just to be on the safe side.
« Last Edit: September 19, 2017, 10:43:43 am by Jim »