Author Topic: Haven't done a valve adjustment... (Read 1153 times)

Ironwood · « **on:** March 24, 2019, 03:20:31 pm »

OK - I bought my 2000 3 years ago with 24,000 miles on it. It has run perfectly since the day I bought it. I've changed oil(s), filter, brake fluid, new tires, lubed, added coolant - now at 37700 miles I have not done a valve adjustment. Why? #1= it runs so great! #2 - a little intimidated to tackle it.

Question is: am I playing with fire? All thoughts appreciated!

Bud · « **Reply #1 on:** March 24, 2019, 03:38:51 pm »

Valve adjustments on the C10 are easy. It's a screw and locknut arrangement. There are no shims to remove and swap. No cam removal. Should be something in the tech pages. Also seems like SISF has a video on that too.

connie_rider · « **Reply #2 on:** March 24, 2019, 04:02:53 pm »

The most difficult part of a valve adjustment is:
1: Getting the fairing off and putting the screws back in the correct holes.
EZ solution. Take pictures of the various panels, print and clue to a piece of cardboard, poke holes in the screw locations and put the screws in the correct locations as you remove them.

2: Getting the valve cover off and back on.
Solution: "Patience" and regular breaks for a cold one...
Look thru forum/YouTube for step by step instructions.
{Steve Sefsick posted a good video}...
Remove the screw from the left bottom of the upper fairing.
{Longer breaks with more cold one's}.

3; Actual valve adjustment is EZ.. Again, patience is your friend..

Ride safe, Ted

DC Concours · « **Reply #3 on:** March 24, 2019, 07:18:04 pm »

It's easy to do. As stated above, the plastic and valve covers are more hassle than the adjustment itself.

My bike ran fine but when I did my adj at about 10k miles the valves were tight. you will damage them if you neglect doing it. 38K is a long time w/o any known adj.

you should hear sewing machine type regular tapping in your engine and you'll know your valves are good. otherwise they are too tight

Ironwood · « **Reply #4 on:** March 24, 2019, 10:52:25 pm »

Thanks guys - looks like I'll take on this project soon! Appreciate the help!

strum · « **Reply #5 on:** March 24, 2019, 11:36:51 pm »

Ive done this job 3 times so im no expert but the 3rd one we used a new valve cover gasket. By far the hardest part was getting the new gasket aligned.
Watch Steve's video it will answer all your questions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQEFWeFeqUo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQEFWeFeqUo

SteveJ. · « **Reply #6 on:** March 24, 2019, 11:45:09 pm »

My original cam cover gasket lasted for 180k miles. I replaced the spark plug well gaskets every time. They are quite reasonable at Murphs'

Also, keep a record of the clearances you find and what you adjust them to every time you do it. You will be able to likely extend the inspection interval to 20k miles. But do not do this until you see that little adjustments are needed.

Let us know what you find.

ron203 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 25, 2019, 06:14:10 am »

First time, take your time. I laid out the pieces (labeled of course) left to right on my work bench.

Take pictures, read the tech pages in the Member Library. That little club membership fee that unlocked the library was paid back to me 10X each time I adjusted my 2000. If you get tired, take a break.

When you're done, put the pieces back together from right to left from how you them out.

The hardest part is getting the stinkin' cover off the engine and out from under the frame, but it WILL come out. I think it was sort of "lift, move it to the rear an inch or so, rotate it to the left, stick out your tongue, wiggle it a little while rotating it a little more to the LEFT and suddenly like one of those "nail puzzles," and you're holding it free in your hands. Stop and think at that point because the exact opposite set of motions puts it back. Then join the chorus of "Why didn't they give me 1/4" more space to the frame?"

(PS, don't miss any vacuum hoses and put the coil wires back in the right holes. Label those. )

Pbfoot · « **Reply #8 on:** March 25, 2019, 07:32:04 pm »

Pro tip. Make sure the radiator hose clamp at the thermostat is rotated out of the way. That is what kept me from getting the cover off the first time.

Ironwood · « **Reply #9 on:** March 25, 2019, 07:34:55 pm »

Thanks for all the suggestions and tips! Much appreciated...

Mcfly · « **Reply #10 on:** March 25, 2019, 11:29:47 pm »

You'll need feeler guages, and angled (or self bent) work best.

For a few bucks more, get some new plug well gaskets, they're
old enough to replace, and you're already in there. Easy stuff.

Rideezdale · « **Reply #11 on:** March 26, 2019, 01:19:18 am »

Quote from: ron203 on March 25, 2019, 06:14:10 am

First time, take your time. I laid out the pieces (labeled of course) left to right on my work bench.

The hardest part is getting the stinkin' cover off the engine and out from under the frame, but it WILL come out. I think it was sort of "lift, move it to the rear an inch or so, rotate it to the left, stick out your tongue, wiggle it a little while rotating it a little more to the LEFT and suddenly like one of those "nail puzzles," and you're holding it free in your hands. Stop and think at that point because the exact opposite set of motions puts it back. Then join the chorus of "Why didn't they give me 1/4" more space to the frame?"

This literally made me

But it is a perfect description how it worked for me

Mettler1 · « **Reply #12 on:** March 26, 2019, 02:25:47 am »

This can help if you need it. Murphs' ships FAST!!

OOPS!!! I meant this one!!

https://www.murphskits.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_105&products_id=531&osCsid=f20NtTJGM5idWceK15Ydz0

crag antler · « **Reply #13 on:** March 26, 2019, 09:41:18 am »

Quote from: Mettler1 on March 26, 2019, 02:25:47 am

This can help if you need it. Murphs' ships FAST!!

https://www.murphskits.com/product_info.php?products_id=525&osCsid=cfUTZlRV9kB6B5SJQKVG2

Sorry, but he may need this one

https://www.murphskits.com/product_info.php?products_id=531&osCsid=cfUTZlRV9kB6B5SJQKVG2
Have one sitting inside just waiting to use.

Bob_C_CT · « **Reply #14 on:** March 26, 2019, 01:08:21 pm »

Pulse cover gasket not needed as you turn the engine over bumping the starter to get the cam lobes aligned. Do not turn the crank manually with a wrench/socket to do this.

I always have a valve cover gasket on hand just in case I need to replace a damaged one.
Spark plug well gaskets, these get replaced every time the valve cover has to come off.

Never replaced the valve cover bolt gaskets, maybe I should as some point?

It may be a good time to take all the smog stuff off and get valve cover block off plates if you don't already have them.
If you do have them and you didn't put them on then the valves may have been adjusted once upon a time.
https://www.murphskits.com/product_info.php?products_id=518

Its so easy to spend others money on upgrades/farkles, isn't it?

crag antler · « **Reply #15 on:** March 26, 2019, 01:10:40 pm »

Quote from: Bob_C_CT on March 26, 2019, 01:08:21 pm

Pulse cover gasket not needed as you turn the engine over bumping the starter to get the cam lobes aligned. Do not turn the crank manually with a wrench/socket to do this.

I always have a valve cover gasket on hand just in case I need to replace a damaged one.
Spark plug well gaskets, these get replaced every time the valve cover has to come off.

Never replaced the valve cover bolt gaskets, maybe I should as some point?

It may be a good time to take all the smog stuff off and get valve cover block off plates if you don't already have them.
If you do have them and you didn't put them on then the valves may have been adjusted once upon a time.
https://www.murphskits.com/product_info.php?products_id=518

Its so easy to spend others money on upgrades/farkles, isn't it?

I second the smog removal plates. Some of the best $ you can spend.

kkja13 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 26, 2019, 04:36:15 pm »

Quote from: Bob_C_CT on March 26, 2019, 01:08:21 pm

Pulse cover gasket not needed as you turn the engine over bumping the starter to get the cam lobes aligned. Do not turn the crank manually with a wrench/socket to do this.

Or you can put the tranny in 6th gear and rotate the rear wheel. Assuming that the bike is on the center stand of course. Worked nicely for me.

Tour1 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 31, 2019, 06:21:13 am »

Quote from: connie_rider on March 24, 2019, 04:02:53 pm

... Remove the screw from the left bottom of the upper fairing...

I took the bolt out of both sides and loosened the bolt in front of the steering stem.
The 1st pic shows the front fairing pushed forward to let the fat part of the valve cover come towards the left.
After it gets stuck on something trying to go left, the left side rotates towards the back.
The fairing gets pushed to the rear (until it hits the valve cover or otherwise stops).
As it goes back it goes up slightly and that allows the valve cover enough height to clear the bearing caps.
I had to let the right side round things on the gasket bend to clear the bearing caps, then pressed them back into place.

JPD · « **Reply #18 on:** March 31, 2019, 11:21:48 am »

All good advice. Just moving the cooling clamp can make the difference to allowing the cover to come off or on, along with the fairing screw removal. The cam bore plugs will bend out of the way going back on. Be careful that the cover seal stays in the correct position. Look real good at the front side. It is easy to dislodge the seal as you work the cover back in.

JS · « **Reply #19 on:** April 04, 2019, 02:22:13 am »

If you do not have lots of mechanical experience in related fields you may screw up what sounds like a nice bike. There are valve adjustment procedures that must be clearly understood and followed. Below are a few things that are not noted in the typical ZG1000 Repair Manual...
1) Have a place to account for all parts and tools and do not have any object around that can or may drop into the motor. I.E. The 4 nuts used to mount the coils should not be put back on wire attached coils for safe keeping. Coils that remain on the bike with leads attached can be moved around and may cause a nut to loosen and fall off.
2) When removing sparkplugs check to see if anything other than a sparkplug is in each hole. Never Rely On Sealed Sparkplug Boots. Wire clips or other debris will enter the combustion chamber when the plug is removed.
3) When removing the valve cover there are 4 metal sleeves for the exhaust gas recirculation ports. Some of the sleeves may want to remain in the valve cover and some may want to stay in the cylinder head. For those sleeves that wish to do neither they can and will drop into what can be an abyss.
4) Use quality tools that fit the nuts and screw slots correctly. There is a certain feel or drag a blade type feeler gauge will have when a valve is properly adjusted. Otherwise if the clearance calls for .006" use a .005" and a .007" to check your work.

Warwgn · « **Reply #20 on:** May 05, 2019, 11:38:02 am »

https://youtu.be/xKfd_UZ2G9g

I did 4 videos that walk you through it. very easy to do.

3 years and only rode just under 14k miles??? Get out there and ride man, best tbing you can do to keep a bike running good is ride that sucker. Good luck.

crag antler · « **Reply #21 on:** May 05, 2019, 12:31:24 pm »

2 tools I've picked up to make the adjustment so much easier.

For adjustment of nut and screw.
https://www.murphskits.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_96&products_id=38&osCsid=t8-rdlyotZpHwG3virB2
And for clearances:
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0394

Low cost but well worth it.