Author Topic: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?  (Read 44292 times)

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Offline RWulf

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #175 on: July 31, 2017, 07:17:58 pm »
I could not have said it better. Thank you Daytona Mike.
I know there those out there who think simple is just not
good enough. I let them do what they want, as they will
anyway.

Offline Bob H

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #176 on: July 31, 2017, 11:56:12 pm »
The flow rate is definitely affected by the tank vent, fuel line size, petcock, any added filters, solenoids etc.

That's the reason for the calculation.  If your system can't make the flow rate required to keep the engine happy at full power, it's inadequate and won't work reliably.  Do whatever you need to do to lower the resistance and increase the flow. 

This is easy to test by measuring the time required to fill a reasonably big volume to make sure you can meet long term steady state flow, not just a few seconds.

Going back to stock with vent tubes seems like the simplest solution at least to me.
Remember, much of what you see on-line is wrong or misguided, your task is to filter that out!
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Offline Derick

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #177 on: August 01, 2017, 12:04:58 am »
Soooo, is the pingel petcock just voodoo then?
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Offline Mettler1

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #178 on: August 01, 2017, 02:11:57 am »
Soooo, is the pingel petcock just voodoo then?

  I wouldn't say it's voodoo. BUT I'm on my second oem petcock in 23 yrs and it works fine at 120 mph!! No problem with fuel flow. If you do have a problem look elsewhere.
'94 Concours 115,000 miles-- 7th gear,2MM,KB fork brace,Over flowtubes,Stick coils,Tcro shifter,GPS,SiSF'sTorque cams,SPOOKFAK,block off plates, SS brake & clutch lines,KB risers, FENDA EXTENDA, emulators, SiSF carb Spa, Delkevic exhaust, Murphs' knee savers +grips, etc

Offline Mcfly

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #179 on: August 01, 2017, 12:12:06 pm »
Soooo, is the pingel petcock just voodoo then?

The pingle petcock isn't voodoo or bad, it just puts 100% of hydrolock protection on the rider.
It also doesn't protect the engine from hydrolock in the time the fuel is turned on, to the time
the motorcycle is started...  So iffin' you turn the fuel on, then say forgot to strap your helmet
so you do so before you start the engine, that time might be spent filling the cylinder with gas...

Pingle petcocks will work 100%, as long the rider is 100% efficient in its operation.

My overflow tubes started pouring gas when I was on 'prime' after the bike sat for a week or so.
They 'let loose' several seconds after I turned the petcock to prime.  So there's little margin for
operator error with a manual petcock, and no way of knowing IF there's a needle valve issue.
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Offline RWulf

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #180 on: August 01, 2017, 01:35:55 pm »
So to be absolutely safe your saying I should get suited up completely first.
Then start cranking the engine over while turning on the Pingle petcock.
That way if I have a stuck float it will just flood the engine and hydro-lock
it while it is running.
This is all too much, I feel Steve's overflow tubes are enough.

Offline m in sc

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #181 on: August 01, 2017, 02:24:20 pm »
first post here... picked a good one i see.  :D

I've had my 01 for a few mos, but my (ex) father in law had one for years and i worked on it a few times, 2x for the hydro-locking issue. also, i am VERY into vintage bikes, and having had more than a few kawi triples in my life, i've seen vacuum petcocks seep, hydro lock, blow crank seals out, bend rods, etc. one of the FIRST things i did to the bike was fit a manual inline petcock. its a 1/4" fuel shutoff valve at a 90 degree angle, i think it was 12 bucks. good quality, zero issues, and in plain sight.  my thought is, if i can remember to turn the fuel on and off, anybody can. no different than putting the side-stand up.

i still have the vacuum petcock on the tank and it works awesome. there's usually no warning when it will fail, so why risk it?






Offline Mettler1

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #182 on: August 01, 2017, 04:15:15 pm »
  This is why we have overflow tubes on our carbs. If the fuel system fails and they have you could very well have a hydrolock episode and destroy the engine.

   Watch video.    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4W6k3pTdAXw

   And welcome to the forum! :great:
'94 Concours 115,000 miles-- 7th gear,2MM,KB fork brace,Over flowtubes,Stick coils,Tcro shifter,GPS,SiSF'sTorque cams,SPOOKFAK,block off plates, SS brake & clutch lines,KB risers, FENDA EXTENDA, emulators, SiSF carb Spa, Delkevic exhaust, Murphs' knee savers +grips, etc

Offline m in sc

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #183 on: August 01, 2017, 05:31:18 pm »
oh i know, im aware of that, i'll add some myself eventually. nothing like backup plans over backup plans. i firmly believe in redundancy. i have a professional machining and mechanic background, but am am m.e. for a living, so i'l do the bowls myself... this was the quickest fix while i was shaking down the 'new to me' bike .

one time about 8 yrs ago we had a hung fuel injector that hydro-locked a 300z  thats was fun.   :o  i do plan on adding the over flows eventually.  :great: just posted this as an alternate suggestion
thanks for the welcome  :beerchug:

Offline Locomotiveman

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #184 on: August 01, 2017, 06:04:42 pm »
So to be absolutely safe your saying I should get suited up completely first.
Then start cranking the engine over while turning on the Pingle petcock.
That way if I have a stuck float it will just flood the engine and hydro-lock
it while it is running.
This is all too much, I feel Steve's overflow tubes are enough.
Yes, you are correct on the first point. But re-think WHAT a true shut-off does. It physically blocks fuel from moving thru a line with 100% certainty. Moving a 'PINGEL' from ON to OFF keeps tank fuel in the tank and not into the engine and then perhaps to the garage floor. Yes, it involves a modicum of human effort instead of vacuum hoses, springs and whatnot. Personally, I've not seen a Gasoline Tanker going down the highway without one. Nor a tanker of Jet A on the ramp. Just sayin'......
If the TRUTH is crystal clear..I must need glasses.

Offline connie_rider

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #185 on: August 01, 2017, 07:13:12 pm »
Let's look at this another way..
Several things have to occur before you can have a hydrolock..
     1; The petcock has to allow gas flow to the carbs.
     2; The float needles have to allow the gas level to rise excessively.
     3: An intake valve has to open to allow enough gas to accumulate in a cylinder.
     4; Someone has to crank the bike.

I agree, overflow pipes will absolutely prevent hydrolock, and an inline valve will not "absolutely" prevent hydrolock.
But, the 2 together will absolutely prevent hydrolock, "and" can prevent gas from reaching the carbs/cylinder/floor.

In my case, my bike is stored in my garage. {There is also a gas water heater in that garage}.
If the petcock fails and the carbs leak (with or without overflows) the gas could reach the ground.
If that happens, I have the potential for a fire.
NOTE: My garage has an elevated water heater to reduce the possibility.

Whenever this discussion reappears, I follow it.
Because preventing the gas flow would make my garage safer.
I agree that redundancy (valve and overflow) would do that, and prevent hydrolock.. 
My concern is; the extra valve could restrict flow.

Ride safe, Ted
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Offline Steve in Sunny Fla

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #186 on: August 01, 2017, 07:28:26 pm »
Let's look at this another way..
Several things have to occur before you can have a hydrolock..
     1; The petcock has to allow gas flow to the carbs.
     2; The float needles have to allow the gas level to rise excessively.
     3: An intake valve has to open to allow enough gas to accumulate in a cylinder.
     4; Someone has to crank the bike.

I agree, overflow pipes will absolutely prevent hydrolock, and an inline valve will not "absolutely" prevent hydrolock.
But, the 2 together will absolutely prevent hydrolock, "and" can prevent gas from reaching the carbs/cylinder/floor.

In my case, my bike is stored in my garage. {There is also a gas water heater in that garage}.
If the petcock fails and the carbs leak (with or without overflows) the gas could reach the ground.
If that happens, I have the potential for a fire.
NOTE: My garage has an elevated water heater to reduce the possibility.

Whenever this discussion reappears, I follow it.
Because preventing the gas flow would make my garage safer.
I agree that redundancy (valve and overflow) would do that, and prevent hydrolock.. 
My concern is; the extra valve could restrict flow.

Ride safe, Ted

  I've seen hidden hydrolocks (when you don't know the cylinder is filled ) and also hydrolocks that spilled out into the airbox and onto the ground. Overflow tubes are no more dangerous to exploding your garage than a hydrolock can be. Steve
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Offline connie_rider

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #187 on: August 01, 2017, 10:41:01 pm »
I totally agree with Steve...
 
That's why I sed; If the petcock fails and the carbs leak (with or without overflows) the gas could reach the ground.

ie: If the petcock fails, gas can spill to the ground without overflows as easily as it can with them.

The point of my reply was; we have more and more petcock failures.
Maybe an inline valve {of some type} would be a good option.

Ride safe, Ted
« Last Edit: August 02, 2017, 02:36:40 pm by connie_rider »
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Offline RWulf

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #188 on: August 02, 2017, 12:10:59 am »
Well I am out of here. I did Steve's over flow tubes and
sleep very well.

Offline Mettler1

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #189 on: August 02, 2017, 01:28:30 am »
Well I am out of here. I did Steve's over flow tubes and
sleep very well.

    Me too. :great:
'94 Concours 115,000 miles-- 7th gear,2MM,KB fork brace,Over flowtubes,Stick coils,Tcro shifter,GPS,SiSF'sTorque cams,SPOOKFAK,block off plates, SS brake & clutch lines,KB risers, FENDA EXTENDA, emulators, SiSF carb Spa, Delkevic exhaust, Murphs' knee savers +grips, etc

Offline Zorlac

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #190 on: August 02, 2017, 02:56:25 am »
Maybe an inline valve {of some type} would be a good option.
You can't say that Ted, that's the whole point of this thread, they don't work period so don't even try one. Unless of course they magically happen to work in some physics defying one two in a million installation.  ::)
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Offline Mettler1

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #191 on: August 02, 2017, 03:23:34 am »
  LET's get real!! when and if the gas flows the float needle does NOT close when the float bowl is full the raw fuel will run into the cyl and ---- are you ready?? --you hit the starter button with gas in that cyl THAT does not COMPRESS you get BANG!! A bent rod!!!  >:( >:(

   that is why you need float bowl over flow tubes!! Better the excess gas leaves the float bowl than filling a cyl with raw fuel. :-[
'94 Concours 115,000 miles-- 7th gear,2MM,KB fork brace,Over flowtubes,Stick coils,Tcro shifter,GPS,SiSF'sTorque cams,SPOOKFAK,block off plates, SS brake & clutch lines,KB risers, FENDA EXTENDA, emulators, SiSF carb Spa, Delkevic exhaust, Murphs' knee savers +grips, etc

Offline connie_rider

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #192 on: August 02, 2017, 03:36:59 am »
I'm not the bad guy. I'm just stirring the discussion.   >:D

I want to point this out;
       We already "all" have inline valves on our bikes.
          That inline valve is called a "petcock".
             Unfortunately too many are failing.

I agree, we have an absolute way to prevent hydrolock.
  That fix is an overflow tube. {thank you Steve}.

The idea was presented to add a better valve, or add a secondary valve.
 At the start of the original discussion, it was viewed as a way to prevent hydrolock.
    It can't absolutely do that.
          ie; It can lessen the possibility of hydrolock, but it can not "absolutely" prevent it..

Lets discuss the valve idea as a way to stop gas flow if a petcock leaks.
  It needs to be simple to install, and not restrict flow when the valve is open.

Thoughts??   :)

Ride safe, Ted

PS: In all cases, {if a valve is installed or not}, overflow tubes MUST be installed to prevent hydrolock. Period!!
« Last Edit: August 02, 2017, 02:58:30 pm by connie_rider »
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Offline Harry Martin

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #193 on: August 02, 2017, 03:53:03 am »
I'm not the bad guy. I'm just stirring the discussion.   >:D

I want to point this out;
       We already "all" have inline valves on our bikes.
          That inline valve is called a "petcock".
             Unfortunately too many are failing.

I agree, we have an absolute way to prevent hydrolock.
  That fix is an overflow tube. {thank you Steve}.

The idea was presented to add a better valve, or add a secondary valve.
 At the start of the original discussion, it was viewed as a way to prevent hydrolock.
    It can't absolutely do that.
          It can lessen the possibility of hydrolock, but it can not "absolutely" prevent it..

Lets discuss the valve idea as a way to stop gas flow if a petcock leaks.
  It needs to be simple to install, and not restrict flow when the valve is open.

Thoughts??   :)

Ride safe, Ted

Actually...you is a trouble maker, but that is another problem.  :(

As for leaking petcock, I just installed Murph's kit where you flip the lever upside down and cut off the lever to install the new lever 180 out.
It's an old kit, but it stops the leak. Just put it on my 86 and will install it on my other C10 when I get around to it. No longer depends on vacuum to turn ON/OFF the gas.  I used a MUCH stiffer spring to push the diaphragm hard into place and applied liquid gasket to the drip port to stop it up forever. Problem solved. Flip new lever forward, gas off. Down, PRI, to rear, RESERVE.

The only problem left now is how to get rid of troublemakers.
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Offline JDM

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #194 on: August 02, 2017, 02:12:45 pm »
Let's look at this another way..
Several things have to occur before you can have a hydrolock..
     1; The petcock has to allow gas flow to the carbs.
     2; The float needles have to allow the gas level to rise excessively.
     3: An intake valve has to open to allow enough gas to accumulate in a cylinder.
     4; Someone has to crank the bike.

I agree, overflow pipes will absolutely prevent hydrolock, and an inline valve will not "absolutely" prevent hydrolock.
But, the 2 together will absolutely prevent hydrolock, "and" can prevent gas from reaching the carbs/cylinder/floor.

In my case, my bike is stored in my garage. {There is also a gas water heater in that garage}.
If the petcock fails and the carbs leak (with or without overflows) the gas could reach the ground.
If that happens, I have the potential for a fire.
NOTE: My garage has an elevated water heater to reduce the possibility.

Whenever this discussion reappears, I follow it.
Because preventing the gas flow would make my garage safer.
I agree that redundancy (valve and overflow) would do that, and prevent hydrolock.. 
My concern is; the extra valve could restrict flow.

Ride safe, Ted

I'm not the bad guy. I'm just stirring the discussion.   >:D

I want to point this out;
       We already "all" have inline valves on our bikes.
          That inline valve is called a "petcock".
             Unfortunately too many are failing.

I agree, we have an absolute way to prevent hydrolock.
  That fix is an overflow tube. {thank you Steve}.

The idea was presented to add a better valve, or add a secondary valve.
 At the start of the original discussion, it was viewed as a way to prevent hydrolock.
    It can't absolutely do that.
          It can lessen the possibility of hydrolock, but it can not "absolutely" prevent it..

Lets discuss the valve idea as a way to stop gas flow if a petcock leaks.
  It needs to be simple to install, and not restrict flow when the valve is open.

Thoughts??   :)

Ride safe, Ted

Hey everyone, pick your feet up, it's going to get thick. Ted, you have some good points here. I agree with you 100% on what it takes to hydrolock a Connie.

Logic should dictate what you do with your fuel system. The points I want to make are just my use of logic. In order to have a hydrolock event, a few things have to happen. The petcock has to fail open along with the float needles as well. If you look at how the OEM petcock seats to shut off fuel flow, you will see it seats against the head pressure and not with with the head pressure in the fuel tank (the OEM petcock uses a spring to overcome head pressure to seat). If the tank vent valves are not working, you can build up pressure in the tank. If enough pressure builds up, it will unseat the petcock and start it to leak. I don't know at what pressure this can happen, but I do know that if enough pressure builds up, the petcock fails open and then there is enough pressure to unseat the float needles. This sets you up for hydrolock.

I posted the way you can disable the tank vents and showed how the petcock works. Maybe you all can do a search in the forum if you are interested. I would like to point out that the only thing here that can fail closed is the thing you would want to fail open, the tank vent. It is very hard for me not to defend the solenoid valve when it's only logical to use it. 

OK. Now let's take a look at the restrictions in the fuel system for the Connie. (1) The screen in the tank has a bit (who knows how much), (2) the orifice in the petcock and the amount the valve unseats (how far it opens, that depends on how strong the seating spring is or how much it has been stretched), (3) the ID of the fuel line, the length of it and how smooth it is on the inside, (4) the cracking pressure for the float needles, and I am sure there are some that I have not thought of. Any thoughts? 

Let's take a look at the Solenoid valve I linked to. NOTE the Part NO you need to look at is 2w16-0-10 and NOT 2w04-0-10 https://www.amazon.com/Woljay-Solenoid-Normally-Closed-Replacement/dp/B06XVG9K6P/ref=sr_1_11?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1501511586&sr=1-11&keywords=12v+solenoid+valve+3%2F8.
 If you look at the specs for this valve, you will see that it fails closed (stops gas flowing). That takes away one of the causes for hydrolock. This valve uses the head pressure in the tank to help it seat (this takes away the problem when or if the OEM vent valve fails closed). That's two hydrolock opportunities taken away. If you look at the solenoid valve spec, you will see that the orifice size for this valve is 16mm. If you do the math, you will see that the fuel line ID is only 8MM and it builds up pressure along its length. The solenoid valve is a lot less restrictive compared to the OEM petcock. The ID and length of fuel line is what it is. You got to go from point A to point B. Now comes the Helix fuel line. It has very good flow characteristics (the best I've found) as it is very smooth on the inside. The Seadoo settling bowl catches water and trash before it can get into your carbs and this will save you a lot of future carb problems.

In summary, the OEM petcock fails open, the float needles fail open. (If you use a manual valve it will work as long as you don't cause it to fail open. A manual valve is my second choice along with overflow tubes.) I am not sure what the duty cycles are for this solenoid valve is but my guess is it is good for around 100,000 +/- cycles and that is a lot more than anything else you will get for $17.63 shipped. If it were me, I would get two for that price - a spare that I carry with me. After all, it fails closed and stops the fuel flow. A spare will get you back on the road. I hope this helps someone from getting hydrolock.

I no longer have a Connie so you can take it or leave it, as I no longer have dog in this fight one might say. Be safe. 

P.S. Please get Steve's overflow tubes installed if you can. I believe in them as the Connie is the only bike I can remember not having overflows. Many years ago (15-16), I started "preaching" about hydrolock and caught hell over it. In those days, hydrolock didn't happen often because the bikes were a lot newer, but I could see from the way the Connie fuel system was designed that there was going to be trouble with hydrolock.

I called Gary Murphy back when he was starting his business and told him I might have a new product for him and made a deal that if he would buy me a solenoid valve I would test it. I gave Gary the valve information and in just a few days the the valve showed up. Later on Gary gave me 2 tank adapters that would allow me to bolt the solenoid valve to the bottom of the tank and eliminate the OEM petcock. That was just what I needed to get me further down the road. (If you decide to install the solenoid valve in the tank, you will need to talk to Gary for these adapters.) As it turned out, the valve I selected was too small for some Connies. On my Connie, it worked fine. At that time I was using 3/8" fuel line run as short as possible and only the OEM petcock as a restriction.

Not to long after I got the Murphy valve, Zorlac started using it on his Connie without any trouble and I think he is still using it. I posted how I installed the Murphy valve on my Connie and Gary started sending out a few valves.

I remember Gary asking me to run the Connie as fast as it would go to see if the valve would show any flow problems and I remember telling Gary, if he wanted to do that, go ahead. I didn't have enough balls for it, and there is no straight road around here. If I had made that run, I am sure it would have shown the valve to be too small. I am sorry I did not make that run. Some folks started having problems with this valve so I went back to the drawing board. Not in the 15-16 years have I found a better quality Murphy valve than the original, but, I did find some bigger valves and started doing tests on my Connie. I also was gathering information from folks on the forum. Some of it was very good and, just like now, some not worth a dam. In the meantime, a fellow from Florida named Bubba (Steve) came up overflow tubes. Steve put a hole in the bucket but didn't do much for stopping the leak. I am sure of this, the overflow tubes have done more good at stopping hydrolock than all the other BS put together. Steve installed the mod on my Connie. I should have been the first one to send my carbs to him, I knew the overflow tubes would work. It should be one of the first things you do to your Connie. All the rest of this is gravy, or BS. You be the judge. But, remember, I will give you an Oklahoma guarantee.   

HTH, JD   P.S. you might want to go back and relook at my post on page 7

Here is another valve source. https://www.amazon.com/RELIAN-Electric-Replacement-Pipelines-Applications/dp/B01FU3Y4VW/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1501720153&sr=1-2-fkmr0&keywords=2w16010+12v+solenoid+valve+3%2F8 
« Last Edit: August 02, 2017, 11:33:25 pm by JDM »

Offline connie_rider

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #195 on: August 02, 2017, 02:46:04 pm »
Hope I stirred some good discussions.
 Leaving town for a few days.
   Ya'll, play nice!

Ride safe, Ted

PS: The reason this idea is of particular interest to me is simple;
        My Buddies garage/and part of his house burnt. "Because of a leaking carb" on a riding lawnmower.
           (He didn't turn off the gas when he finished mowing. Carb overflowed, Gas fumes reached his water heater. Boom.)
« Last Edit: August 02, 2017, 02:54:46 pm by connie_rider »
14 Connie (Traveler II) / 03 Connie (Buddy)
Gone but not forgotten; 87 and 00 Connies..

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Offline Zorlac

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #196 on: August 02, 2017, 02:50:31 pm »
Zorlac started using it on his Connie without any trouble and I think he is still using it.
Yep, 100K mi and still working.  :motonoises:
At 151K mi my clutch slip impedes rapid forward motion way more than fuel flow.  :rotflmao:
COG #6962

Offline JDM

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #197 on: August 02, 2017, 03:37:50 pm »
Hope I stirred some good discussions.
 Leaving town for a few days.
   Ya'll, play nice!

Ride safe, Ted

PS: The reason this idea is of particular interest to me is simple;
        My Buddies garage/and part of his house burnt. "Because of a leaking carb" on a riding lawnmower.
           (He didn't turn off the gas when he finished mowing. Carb overflowed, Gas fumes reached his water heater. Boom.)

Ted, you just keep on keeping on you are doing good.  All i can say is to thy on self be true. 

Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #198 on: August 02, 2017, 09:41:03 pm »
JDM
Please supply us a link, to the actual manufacturers spec, detailing that the "flow orifice" is 16mm.

I see the "chart", but is without actual manufactrer verification... which is what I go on.

I cannot see it from the link you provided in post 194, nor do I believe for 1 second, that is correct.
I have speced solenoids, and designed hydraulic circuits for decades, and inlet/outlet thread sized valves of this nature NEVER have an orifice that size.
I would say it is closer to .160" diameter, finding a solenoid with a 1/4" orifice thru, is difficult even, and I base this on my job, and the fact I researched this all a lonnnnnnnnng time ago, when Gary was looking for a valve to use. I could not find a single 12v small, 3/8-1/4" npt valve with an orifice over 3/16", and that one was expensive, high buck one.  Even on 1" npt valves, you would be hard pressed to find an orifice 3/8" or roughly 10 mm.

I made my conclusions based on specific product literature from the manufacturers of the valves, with specific attention to "delta P" pressure drops, at atmospheric pressures.  I found none I was excited about, if I had, Murph would be selling them, I guarantee...
« Last Edit: August 02, 2017, 09:55:31 pm by MAN OF BLUES »

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Offline Mcfly

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Re: How come we don't all install in-line fuel valves to block hydolock?
« Reply #199 on: August 02, 2017, 10:49:58 pm »
It seems to me that petcock FAILURE can be a root cause of a hydrolock, but my petcock was
in perfect working order when my overflow tubes "saved" my bike.  I just turned my
petcock to prime and a failing petcock was NOT a specific cause to my carb flooding to the
point the overflow tube bypassed gas to the floor.

The wording Ted used is the most accurate:    :great:

Several things have to occur before you can have a hydrolock..
     1; The petcock has to allow gas flow to the carbs.
     2; The float needles have to allow the gas level to rise excessively.
     3: An intake valve has to open to allow enough gas to accumulate in a cylinder.
     4; Someone has to crank the bike.

If we're informing people, we should be making sure that we're saying it properly.
Soooo,  by adding a secondary fuel valve and trying to prime your motorcycle after an
extended sit will not do a darned thing, because the rider will have opened the secondary
valve, letting gas flow to an open needle valve, etc... etc... etc..  CLUNK!

So, put 5 shut off valves in, and as long as the needle valve is open, and an intake valve is open
you're going to be right in line for a possible Oh $H!+ moment when fuel starts flowing.  Seeing as there's
no easy way to see if these two conditions exist, it's best off to have a little gas on the floor,
or in an oil catch pan, which I NOW put under my bike when it goes away, and when I prime it.
(This is my argument for using a Pingle as a stop gap for hydrolock, because for day to day operation,
the OEM petcock does a better job than the owner/operator)

Just sayin'!
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SOLD: 2006 Concours aka "Connie"

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