Author Topic: Hydrolock, but no damage?  (Read 539 times)

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Offline Richie

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Hydrolock, but no damage?
« on: September 23, 2018, 09:26:14 pm »
Hello,
So I went to start the C10 today, and there was a loud crack/pop sound and it stopped cranking. So I hit the starter again (probably ill-advised) and it tried to crank but would not. So I hit it a 3rd time (again, probably not the best idea), but this time it fired right up. I didn’t hear any strange noises from the engine once it was running, and I noticed no issues/changes in performance, even when I took it to 9000rpm on the highway.
Is it possible that the hydrolock didn’t damage anything?
Would a bent rod have an immediately noticeable effect?
I’ll do the rod test if I have to.

Oh, and it definitely was a hydrolock... checked the petcock after the ride; it’s dripping. -.-

Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Hydrolock, but no damage?
« Reply #1 on: September 23, 2018, 10:15:17 pm »
fuel in the airbox is also really good indication...
don't ride it until it's remedied, don't continue to start and run it. Remove the tank to prevent further events.

no good can come from attempting to ride it until it's remedied.
even if it didn't bend a rod, it may at some point... and hitting 9k rpm, isn't a wise thing to do when you are 'testing it'.



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Offline Richie

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Re: Hydrolock, but no damage?
« Reply #2 on: September 23, 2018, 10:23:27 pm »
Already disconnected the fuel line and ordered a rebuild kit.
I will say that I didn’t take it straight to 9000rpm. I incrementally increased rpm throughout the 5 hour ride, maxing out at 4K, then 4500, then 5k, while listening for any unusual noises.

Offline Richie

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Re: Hydrolock, but no damage?
« Reply #3 on: September 23, 2018, 10:24:30 pm »
It’s just interesting that there was no fuel on the ground or leaking from the air box... the bike was sitting for 18 hours before I tried to start it. Seems to be a very slow leak.

Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Hydrolock, but no damage?
« Reply #4 on: September 23, 2018, 10:38:11 pm »
hydrolok occurs because the float valve in 1 or more carbs, is not shutting off the flow of fuel
into the float bowl.... it is not a product of a faulty petcock, but then again, a faulty petcock will feed the issue.... the float needle being hung up because of debris, or wear, is why fule flows into a cylinder, creating the hydrolok. It may occur without having fuel on the floor, as it had not completely filled the cylinder yet, and at that point, it will flow from the rear of the offending carb, and leak into the airbox... your's just had not sat long enough to have the 'visible' fuel running out of the box.

that said, address the malfunctioning float valve, in the appropriate float bowl, as that is the cause....
You may not have bent a rod, I've hydro'd a couple times due to a faulty float, but sooner or later, you will bend a rod... it may not be bad enough to tell from the performance, or degradation as a result, many of these bikes do have slight damage, and still run fine... but, the piston height check will tell you how bad, if any, the damage may be.

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Offline Richie

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Re: Hydrolock, but no damage?
« Reply #5 on: September 23, 2018, 11:25:26 pm »
I installed all new floats to keep hydrolock from happening, and it worked fine for awhile... I don’t know what changed.
How do I tell which valve is leaking?

Offline Mettler1

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Re: Hydrolock, but no damage?
« Reply #6 on: September 24, 2018, 03:16:49 am »
  If you didn't have a hydrolock episode you got real damn lucky and didn't destroy an engine!!  All those things you say you did to prevent hydrolock can happen again. :'(

   You real need overflow tubes to keep the fuel from getting into the cyls. New float valves can hang up !! >:(


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Offline jettawreck

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Re: Hydrolock, but no damage?
« Reply #7 on: September 24, 2018, 12:07:16 pm »
I installed all new floats to keep hydrolock from happening, and it worked fine for awhile... I don’t know what changed.
How do I tell which valve is leaking?

Any small particle or random event can cause a float valve to stick. It only takes one/once to ruin the engine. Overflow tubes are the only positive prevention measure to prevent a hydrolock event. Tubes won't prevent a petcock or float valve event failure, but at least the engine will not be damaged.
Carefully measure your piston heights now.
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Offline Mettler1

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Re: Hydrolock, but no damage?
« Reply #8 on: September 24, 2018, 12:27:57 pm »
I installed all new floats to keep hydrolock from happening, and it worked fine for awhile... I don’t know what changed.
How do I tell which valve is leaking?

Any small particle or random event can cause a float valve to stick. It only takes one/once to ruin the engine. Overflow tubes are the only positive prevention measure to prevent a hydrolock event. Tubes won't prevent a petcock or float valve event failure, but at least the engine will not be damaged.
Carefully measure your piston heights now.


  Hydrolock test video.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4W6k3pTdAXw&feature=plcp

'94 Concours 115,000 miles-- 7th gear,2MM,KB fork brace,Over flowtubes,Stick coils,Tcro shifter,GPS,SiSF'sTorque cams,SPOOKFAK,block off plates, SS brake & clutch lines,KB risers, FENDA EXTENDA, emulators, SiSF carb Spa, Delkevic exhaust, Murphs' knee savers +grips, etc

Offline MikeH_OH

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Re: Hydrolock, but no damage?
« Reply #9 on: September 24, 2018, 02:55:09 pm »
Which hole is at fault? I have had three different ones act up . First - do not start the bike. Pull the plugs and see which one is wet with gas. problem solved... this time.

Offline kurt

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Re: Hydrolock, but no damage?
« Reply #10 on: October 19, 2018, 04:29:50 pm »
my bike has sat for several years. now retired want to clean it and ride it. What do I do , before starting it to make sure I don't have the chance of hydrolock ? is it even a chance with a bike which has sat so long or is it more likely with a bike that has sat so  long. ? thanks]

Offline kkja13

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Re: Hydrolock, but no damage?
« Reply #11 on: October 19, 2018, 04:57:13 pm »
At a minimum all fluids need to be changed including brake and clutch fluid (DOT4).
If there was fuel left in the bike then it is safe to say that your carbs will need to be removed and cleaned/rebuilt (SISF) and your gas tank drained and rinsed out.

From that point you will need to pay attention to the soft parts like hoses, etc.
Also look at the date codes on your tires and check for dry rot and then decide if you trust them.

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Offline Mettler1

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Re: Hydrolock, but no damage?
« Reply #12 on: October 19, 2018, 05:09:46 pm »
  Plus remove the spark plugs. Put rags over the spark plug holes and hit the starter and see if any gas comes out. If it does you just avoided a hydrolock episode. Also the carbs should be cleaned and probably get new float needles after setting for a few yrs.. If you want to make sure you want them done right send the carbs to SiSF. As the previous poster said change all fluids if the hydrolock test passes. No sense in feeding a dead horse.
    Forgot to add if you don't have overflow tubes on your carbs now is the time to get them. Really helps avoid "hydrolock" and ruining your motor!  >:(

https://sites.google.com/site/shoodabenengineering/intake-and-exhaust


 Good luck and update us. Always like to see a C10 back on the road.
« Last Edit: October 19, 2018, 09:19:18 pm by Mettler1 »
'94 Concours 115,000 miles-- 7th gear,2MM,KB fork brace,Over flowtubes,Stick coils,Tcro shifter,GPS,SiSF'sTorque cams,SPOOKFAK,block off plates, SS brake & clutch lines,KB risers, FENDA EXTENDA, emulators, SiSF carb Spa, Delkevic exhaust, Murphs' knee savers +grips, etc

Offline Steve in Sunny Fla

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Re: Hydrolock, but no damage?
« Reply #13 on: October 19, 2018, 11:01:18 pm »
PEOPLE - you cannot tell if a rod is bent by how the engine runs! Do the hydrolock rod test, or find out when the rod goes out the front of the engine at 9000 rpm. Your call.  :??:  Steve
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Re: Hydrolock, but no damage?
« Reply #14 on: October 20, 2018, 12:10:04 am »
I agree.
The hydrolock test MUST be done to determine if a rod may have been bent..

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Offline Bill Hookman

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Re: Hydrolock, but no damage?
« Reply #15 on: October 20, 2018, 04:20:40 am »
Check the tank for rust. If the tank sat for years, it's probably rusted and will clog those shiny clean carbs the first time gas flows into them.
Bill Hookman  Columbus, OH

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Offline Daytona_Mike

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Re: Hydrolock, but no damage?
« Reply #16 on: October 20, 2018, 01:54:43 pm »
You need to:
1. Install overflow tubes- all new everything will NOT prevent hydrolock. Only overflow tubes can do that.
2. Do the bent rod test.
3. Do not run it until you do 1 and 2 first. You are smart to come here and ask questions. All of the previous postings is great advise from very experienced knowledgeable people  and we will help you get this resolved.

Just to clarify. You hit the starter 2 times-in a row- and the  motor was/did lock up each time?  Oh boy. I am going to go with YES! You bent a rod. Hopefully no  but I think yes.
I will cross my fingers for you.
IMHO I think replacing the whole petcock  is better than a rebuild kit because  you get a new screen filter included . You may find your screen filter has already separated which causes trash to get past  the filter and into the float valves.  https://tinyurl.com/ybhqveae
« Last Edit: October 20, 2018, 02:13:01 pm by Daytona_Mike »
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