Author Topic: Idling coolant temp gauge needle position  (Read 138 times)

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Offline bajasam

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Idling coolant temp gauge needle position
« on: September 15, 2018, 09:03:20 pm »
Finally got my new to me '04' back together after feeding it 400 bucks worth of seals o-rings and other parts from Murph and pzilla.my question is on a 101F day in the shaded carport is it normal for it to idle indefinitely with out ever going 1/4 of the way above Cold?my first water cooled bike and every vehicle except the dodge diesel i've had would eventually warm up to full temp even at an idle.

Offline Mettler1

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Re: Idling coolant temp gauge needle position
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2018, 10:29:26 pm »
   Doesn't sound normal to me. Even at 75 degrees my C10 at idle will eventually get hot enough to turn the fan on and temp needle will return to 3/4 on the temp gauge and then cycle the fan until I Turn off the engine.
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Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Idling coolant temp gauge needle position
« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2018, 11:28:15 pm »
Finally got my new to me '04' back together after feeding it 400 bucks worth of seals o-rings and other parts from Murph and pzilla.my question is on a 101F day in the shaded carport is it normal for it to idle indefinitely with out ever going 1/4 of the way above Cold?my first water cooled bike and every vehicle except the dodge diesel i've had would eventually warm up to full temp even at an idle.

it's very possible that during the replacement of all those seals and such, and during the fill and early run in, afterwards, you may either have missed replacing the thermostat, or displaced the wire to the temp gauge sending unit (it sits on the rear of the thermostat housing), or even possibly have a large air bubble trapped on top of the thermostat housing, restricting the actual coolant from coming into contact with that sensor.

you may need to re burp the system, by removing the filler cap, and with the engine cold, and a rag in hand and under the bolt near the water pump, loosen the upper left bolt, shown with the arrow in photo I attached below,  (the upper left one, not the right one), and allow any trapped air to be dispelled... then quickly tighten it back up when juice spews out.. You can further bleed the Thermostat housing, by installing a hose on the bleeder valve, located on the right side of the thermostat housing, and with the bike started and running with the radiator cap off, and the bleeder hose routed back into the filler neck, break that bleeder free and see if fluid flows, and shut it and lock it when you have flow.

this will insure you have no air pocket (which will prevent the temp switch sensor from rising) in that housing.
best of luck, let us know what you find.

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