Author Topic: Mean Streak Rear wheel (Read 7356 times)

GF-in-CA · « **Reply #25 on:** June 27, 2015, 02:34:49 pm »

Quote from: JDM on June 27, 2015, 12:38:44 pm

Quote from: Pbfoot on June 27, 2015, 11:49:38 am
Use a front rotor from a Nomad. No modification necessary.

Do you know what year Nomad? Thanks JD

JDM, the rotor is from a 1999-2004 Vulcan Nomad, Kawasaki P/N 41080-1447-CM, or EBC P/N MD4150. You can also turn down the rotor, the C10 rotor is 280 mm dia and the Mean Streak rotor is 300 mm dia.

GF-in-CA · « **Reply #26 on:** June 27, 2015, 02:45:22 pm »

Quote from: Yamahawk on June 27, 2015, 02:13:43 pm

Gary, I like this idea, but I was thinking of using the Mean Streak caliper bracket, and making a .18" cut where the axle and swing arm are for the proper width, and then fabbing a brake stay down to just above the swing arm for the Mean Streak caliper and bracket. do you think this is a good option? I am trying to use what I have, and the less complicated the better. If the tube welded on the swing arm works, then a brake stay from the stock location to just above the swing arm should work also. What do you think?

I think I understand what you are trying to do, and it should work. If you can visualize a line between the axle centerline and the hole on the bracket that attaches to the stay, I would try to make the angle between that line and the stay as close to 90 degrees as possible. If you use the existing hole on the Mean Streak bracket, this would mean rotating the caliper around to the back of the rotor. I know of another owner who used the Mean Streak bracket and chopped off the stay arm on the bracket and drilled another hole closer to the caliper, then attached the OEM stay to that. It worked well. Hope that makes sense.

Yamahawk · « **Reply #27 on:** June 27, 2015, 03:38:52 pm »

Yes,
It does make sense, as you wouldn't want the bracket to move around, hence the 90 degree between the stay and the bracket. I am thinking, that it shouldn't move much though, even if it isn't 90 deg. as the axle and bracket hole would have a fixed point, and then the stay would also…. I will think on that. Moving the caliper around to the back side of the rotor would actually help clearance with the bag too, as it would lower the caliper in relation to it…. i think lol.

Bob_C_CT · « **Reply #28 on:** June 27, 2015, 06:26:40 pm »

I cut down the meanstreak rear rotor. Was going to do it on a lathe but it is an interrupted cut when you get to the holes. A friend wired it on an EDM machine for me instead. If you use a lathe take light cuts when you start getting into the holes. If your Meanstreak rim doesn't come with a rotor (mine did) a Nomad is much easier.

GF-in-CA · « **Reply #29 on:** June 28, 2015, 03:40:55 am »

Quote from: Yamahawk on June 27, 2015, 03:38:52 pm

Yes,
It does make sense, as you wouldn't want the bracket to move around, hence the 90 degree between the stay and the bracket. I am thinking, that it shouldn't move much though, even if it isn't 90 deg. as the axle and bracket hole would have a fixed point, and then the stay would also…. I will think on that. Moving the caliper around to the back side of the rotor would actually help clearance with the bag too, as it would lower the caliper in relation to it…. i think lol.

The 90 degree number is to minimize the force in the stay, and since the OEM parts are at that angle, it will keep the force right around what Kawasaki designed. You're right that as long as the bracket/ stay/ swingarm form a triangle, there won't be any movement. Moving it 10 degrees one way or the other won't make much difference in the force, but getting them to where they are close to parallel will increase the forces significantly. All in all, you're better off trying to keep the angle close to 90 degrees.

HTH,

Yamahawk · « **Reply #30 on:** July 21, 2015, 03:53:03 pm »

I got the MeanStreak rear installed, ended up milling off at least a 1/4" around the axle hole on the caliper bracket. I clocked the caliper back at 9 o'clock, and used the brake stay from the Concours, just cut off the inside ear of it, and drilled a larger hole for the M12 bolt that threads through the caliper bracket. This ended up around 87-90 degrees in relation to the bracket and stay. I have to say that it was pretty easy to do, only took a couple hours to get everything done. I had a friend make me up a 22 1/2’’ brake line (stainless) and it clears everything well. It is on, now to go for a ride!!

Yamahawk · « **Reply #31 on:** July 21, 2015, 09:25:32 pm »

My cell phone bit the dust, so no pics yet… but, after the test ride, I found the stock length of the Connie brake stay was too short for clearance on the right bag, the caliper was hitting it on bumps. So, I cut a piece of stainless 1/2" pipe and made it 2 1/2" longer, and clocked the caliper around to about 8 o'clock. Now, all is well. It handles pretty good! I have to work on tire pressure etc, but I like it.

Pbfoot · « **Reply #32 on:** July 21, 2015, 11:32:47 pm »

Quote from: Yamahawk on July 21, 2015, 09:25:32 pm

My cell phone bit the dust, so no pics yet… but, after the test ride, I found the stock length of the Connie brake stay was too short for clearance on the right bag, the caliper was hitting it on bumps. So, I cut a piece of stainless 1/2" pipe and made it 2 1/2" longer, and clocked the caliper around to about 8 o'clock. Now, all is well. It handles pretty good! I have to work on tire pressure etc, but I like it.

This is why you machine the wheel. Another advantage is being able to put the stock wheel back on in case the meanie gets damaged. Glad it worked out for you.

Yamahawk · « **Reply #33 on:** July 22, 2015, 10:11:32 am »

Yeah, I can still replace the Concours rear wheel, I purchased another brake stay and modified it and kept the stock one. The parts are all from the Mean Streak that I installed except for the modified replacement Brake stay. It works out really well, If I ever have to re-install the original stuff, all I have to do is bolt them on, re-bleed the original caliper and line, and its all good to go. I cut the ends off the other 06 Concours brake stay, and welded them to a 1/2" stainless pipe (I'm a retired pipe welder

) and made a custom length stay, that clocked the caliper around the back side of the rotor, giving plenty of clearance for the right saddlebag, and kept the right angle orientation for the caliper bracket and the brake stay.

Pbfoot · « **Reply #34 on:** July 22, 2015, 01:55:06 pm »

This is an awesome modification. I was really considering getting rid of the bike before I did this.

Yamahawk · « **Reply #35 on:** July 22, 2015, 02:40:11 pm »

Quote from: Pbfoot on July 22, 2015, 01:55:06 pm

This is an awesome modification. I was really considering getting rid of the bike before I did this.

I agree. It made the bike more manageable and handles better too. The height is about 1" less or at least it feels that way, and it gives a better slant to the bike also. I put 22 miles on it last night with the wife on, 40psi in the rear shock, and #3 damping setting, was nice and stable.

Daytona_Mike · « **Reply #36 on:** July 22, 2015, 07:30:48 pm »

Quote from: Yamahawk on July 22, 2015, 02:40:11 pm

The height is about 1" less or at least it feels that way, and it gives a better slant to the bike also.

I hope not. That would mess up the bikes ride geometry. When I did my mean streak upgrade the bikes height stayed exactly the same from stock to mean streak rim.
It was designed to do so. You dont want to raise or lower the rear or the front specially by an inch. That is a lot.

Yamahawk · « **Reply #37 on:** July 23, 2015, 12:10:55 am »

Mike,
It just feels that way. The 170/60-17 is actually only a 1/4" lower really, but the 120/70-17 is almost 3/4" shorter than the 120/80-18 that I replaced it with. I can tell the front is lower, as I look a little more over the top of my Rifle windscreen. I have to experiment with tire pressure, and it seems that it likes more than 40psi in the front and rear. I get a little wagging with the lower pressure. I has 45 psi in both, and it rode really well. I will try in between, 42-43 psi and see how it does. It definitely does corner better, not as well as my race bike, but better than the stock geometry tires.

Pbfoot · « **Reply #38 on:** July 23, 2015, 12:19:36 am »

Quote from: Yamahawk on July 23, 2015, 12:10:55 am

Mike,
It just feels that way. The 170/60-17 is actually only a 1/4" lower really, but the 120/70-17 is almost 3/4" shorter than the 120/80-18 that I replaced it with. I can tell the front is lower, as I look a little more over the top of my Rifle windscreen. I have to experiment with tire pressure, and it seems that it likes more than 40psi in the front and rear. I get a little wagging with the lower pressure. I has 45 psi in both, and it rode really well. I will try in between, 42-43 psi and see how it does. It definitely does corner better, not as well as my race bike, but better than the stock geometry tires.

I am running 42psi front and rear. Sweet spot for the Dunlop Roadsmart 2. I used the 160/70. It is not for the inseam challenged for sure. Feels significantly taller than stock.

tdbru · « **Reply #39 on:** July 23, 2015, 02:54:35 am »

Pbfoot,
you and I are running the same f/r setup. my rear tire is set at 42psi but I have had good luck running the front at 39psi. someone before me (GF-in-CA?) did some calcs and the 160/70 wasn't a lot different in height from the stock 150/80. it did slow the tach a little. I haven't noticed it being hard to get on or hard to plant both feet at an intersection. and the RSIIs definitely grip way better in the dry and wet than the OEMs did. but that's understandable.
Brian

Pbfoot · « **Reply #40 on:** July 23, 2015, 03:25:44 am »

Quote from: dbu on July 23, 2015, 02:54:35 am

Pbfoot,
you and I are running the same f/r setup. my rear tire is set at 42psi but I have had good luck running the front at 39psi. someone before me (GF-in-CA?) did some calcs and the 160/70 wasn't a lot different in height from the stock 150/80. it did slow the tach a little. I haven't noticed it being hard to get on or hard to plant both feet at an intersection. and the RSIIs definitely grip way better in the dry and wet than the OEMs did. but that's understandable.
Brian

Not a big difference but the first time I sat on it I could tell the difference. I have been running this since October, about 4000 miles. Very confidence inspiring. Front suspension is done, I think I will try a heavier weight oil in the rear shock.

Yamahawk · « **Reply #41 on:** July 25, 2015, 01:24:05 am »

I changed the air pressure to little over 42psi front and rear, and it is very stable. I had the occasion to take it up to over 100mph on the entrance ramp to the e-way this morning, and it was extremely stable, and felt very planted, even on deceleration. So, I think that is where I will keep it. The rear shock had about 29psi, and 2nd damping setting. This is a little light for two up, went for ice cream tonight with the wife, and will try about 38 psi loaded and with the 3rd damping setting for travel. It might need even a little more rear air pressure but, hey thats all good. :beer chug:

rickm_tx · « **Reply #42 on:** July 28, 2015, 07:43:39 pm »

Seems like someone would have and aftermarket upgrade.

Where is SISF when you need him?????

Pbfoot · « **Reply #43 on:** July 29, 2015, 02:29:49 am »

Quote from: rickm_tx on July 28, 2015, 07:43:39 pm

Seems like someone would have and aftermarket upgrade.

Where is SISF when you need him?????

????

Yamahawk · « **Reply #44 on:** August 08, 2015, 04:31:11 pm »

Here are some pics of my rear conversion, using all MeanStreak parts, and a modified Concours brake stay. I had to cut one ear off the rear of the brake stay, and used 1/2" stainless steel pipe for the stay, 2 1/2" longer than the stock solid rod used by Kawasaki. This clocked the caliper down about 8:30 or so, clearing the right bag well. It has Great Brakes in the rear now, much better than the stock one.