Author Topic: Murphs C-10 stainless steel braided hydraulic lines  (Read 327 times)

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Offline frenche

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Murphs C-10 stainless steel braided hydraulic lines
« on: November 03, 2017, 02:05:17 am »
Hi, guys.
       2005 C-10, 10,000- miles.
       Bike has been torn apart since 06/2016.
        Murphs C-10 stainless steel braided standard length hydraulic lines + Murphs risers + ZG-Bars
       Now in process of replacing rubber items of valuable parts. Need to move handlebar grips backward. Will Murph's standard stainless steel braid front brake and clutch lines work without modification when used with Murph's risers and Larry Buck's ZG-Bars? Is there an easier way to move handlebar grips farther to rear of bike by at least 2 inches?

        Thanks for your help,
        Jeff French
        Newcastle, Texas

Offline Jim Snyder

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Re: Murphs C-10 stainless steel braided hydraulic lines
« Reply #1 on: November 03, 2017, 02:11:01 am »
7/8" bars with a Storz adaptor is the way to go. If you haven't ordered those brake lines yet get 2" over stock length at least. You may also need an extended enrichener cable also. If you go to the Spiegler website it will show you how to measure for cust9m length brake lines. Also go with the two line kit.
"Some days you're the windshield, and some days you're the bug" Get used to it cause thats life !!!

Offline frenche

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Re: Murphs C-10 stainless steel braided hydraulic lines
« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2017, 02:15:50 am »
Thanks, Jim. :-)


Offline Stasch

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Re: Murphs C-10 stainless steel braided hydraulic lines
« Reply #3 on: November 06, 2017, 10:15:02 am »
Text from an old post back when I did this.  Its up to you to decide lengths and if you want to do the clutch line like I did.

--------------------------------------------------------------

As you consider cables and electrical lines, don't forget the option of routing them between the fork tubes and the tank.  It gives you a lot more slack than when routed around the front of the tubes, and back through towards the back of the bike.  It also cleans up the looks of things up there IMO.

I changed to different 7/8" bars in a Storz like adaptor.  I had first tried the 1.25 in. risers with OEM bars. 

The 7/8" bars are 30.5" wide, 8" of rise.  The end of the grips extend just behind the back of the fuel cap assembly - a significant distance from the OEM location.

Yes, the bars are wide, but I like them like that.

By re-routing all cables and lines behind the forks, I didn't have to replace anything except brake lines.

I went with a dual line 4.5" over setup from Speigler, and still have more than enough slack to be used with these bars.

Disclaimer for what is to follow . . . . please read it carefully and don't attempt this if you're not familiar with bending tubing.

At first I thought I might need to get a clutch line, but was able to CAREFULLY bend the hard portion of the line leading up the frame near the steering head.  The fat part where the hard line transitions into the flex line is now 90 degrees from where it started, pointing up between the front edge of the tank and just left of the steering head.  This gave me enough additional length to use it with the new bars.

Be careful if you decide to do this so you don't kink the hydraulic line.

I first bent its wire 'D' retainer that is welded to the steering head so it no longer retained the clutch line.

It would be best if you If you have a brake line / tube bender.  I did not and started a few inches back from the transition, bending a LITTLE bit between my finger and thumb.  Moved up further and bend a LITTLE bit more, then move up and repeat so you have a nice gradual bend in the hard line to attain the 90 degree result. 

This may or may not work for you depending on the bars you settle on.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2017, 10:20:19 am by Stasch »
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