Author Topic: My 1988 concour starts but shuts down after a few min won't restart til cool  (Read 381 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Kawasakiking

  • Big Wheels
  • Posts: 5
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: Forum
  • Membership Level: Forum Subscriber
I am me to the group. I have a 1988 concour that sat for a year and now it starts but dies after five min. Crank but won't start. Getting fuel. Repaired j box solder joints. Any ideas? Ty in advance

Online m in sc

  • Road Bike
  • ***
  • Posts: 488
    • 2strokeworld.net
  • AREA: Southeast Area
  • COG#: 13057
  • Membership Level: Active
igniter failed? can you verify spark?
I break stuff. I fix stuff. (rinse & repeat as necessary)

Offline RWulf

  • Crotch Rocket
  • ****
  • Posts: 1850
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: 7122
  • Membership Level: Active
Remembering Engine 101. We need spark, compression & fuel. Doesn't sound like compression is
the issue since it runs for 5 minutes. Could be fuel. Best way to check this is open the float bowl
drains and see if will drain freely for 5 minutes into a bucket or other suitable container. Bucket
you can see what all comes out, it will be at the bottom of the bucket after a few minutes. If flow
slows down open the gas cap, if it speeds up, check the cap is venting properly. Also check for
kinked or blocked fuel line.
If no spark after 5 minutes start checking all electrical connection. Could be ignition pick up, kill
switch or ignition switch.
You have a extra day to do all this. Happy hunting and Holiday.

Offline Kawasakiking

  • Big Wheels
  • Posts: 5
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: Forum
  • Membership Level: Forum Subscriber
Checked all my connections. Thinking it was a ignition prob. What are you speaking about when u say pick up coil? Checked wires to coils and igniter.. and is there a was to bypass ignition switch and kill switch to test????? Thanks

Offline connie_rider

  • "OtP" {retired/assistant} Slave Labor
  • I Need a Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 9985
  • Help us make "OtP" possible! "AGAIN"
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 4154
  • Membership Level: Asst. Area Director
Flowing the fuel with cold lines, may not indicate a fuel problem.

If you have added a fuel filter or installed new fuel lines, they can restrict flow.
  Sometimes {after getting hot} the lines {particularly tygon} will kink e'nuff to restrict or stop flow.
  Flows fine cool, restricts when hot, then as it cools,,, it flows again or gas accumulates e'nuff to restart.

But, it doesn't normally do this at idle.
Not sure it is your problem; but needs to be checked.

Ride safe, Ted
14 Connie (Traveler II) / 03 Connie (Buddy)
Gone but not forgotten; 87 and 00 Connies..

If your not already a COGger, "consider becoming one".
Help us make "OtP" possible again!!

Offline MAN OF BLUES

  • I Need a Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 9927
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: 5977
  • Membership Level: Active
I am me to the group. I have a 1988 concour that sat for a year and now it starts but dies after five min. Crank but won't start. Getting fuel. Repaired j box solder joints. Any ideas? Ty in advance

As often as I read these same words, I always have to ask;
Have you removed the tank, dumped all the old fuel out, swished the tank with clean fresh fuel, dumped that also,  then put fresh clean fuel in the tank to run and ride..... or have you just "added fuel" to whatever lived in the tank for the prior year?


30 YEARS OF KAW.....Rich R. (the other one..)  COG 5977  JUSTAMEMBAHNOW
and if you are gonna call me names... it's MR. Analdweeb if you please...

Offline connie_rider

  • "OtP" {retired/assistant} Slave Labor
  • I Need a Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 9985
  • Help us make "OtP" possible! "AGAIN"
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 4154
  • Membership Level: Asst. Area Director
Good point!

Ride safe, Ted
14 Connie (Traveler II) / 03 Connie (Buddy)
Gone but not forgotten; 87 and 00 Connies..

If your not already a COGger, "consider becoming one".
Help us make "OtP" possible again!!

Offline MAN OF BLUES

  • I Need a Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 9927
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: 5977
  • Membership Level: Active
Good point!

Ride safe, Ted

thanks Ted... I tend to start at the simple things, before suggesting people pull out meters, and stuff, trying to anylize electrics..

so, as "spark" still has not been verified, for all 4 plugs, pulling the fuel tank off is the first step to getting to the plug wires.. and the logical point to begin; especially when questionable fuel may be there.. then... on to verifying the plugs are getting spark..  :truce:

30 YEARS OF KAW.....Rich R. (the other one..)  COG 5977  JUSTAMEMBAHNOW
and if you are gonna call me names... it's MR. Analdweeb if you please...

Offline RWulf

  • Crotch Rocket
  • ****
  • Posts: 1850
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: 7122
  • Membership Level: Active
There are pick up coils under the cover on the left side of the engine. Two of them.
Wire colors are yellow & blue and yellow/black & white/black. A pair for each pick up coil.
Manual says resistance should measure between 390 & 590 ohms. This would be cold.
Your bike stops after running, thing heating up, measure then.
By the way Clymer make a good manual, helps a lot with older bikes.

Offline Bud

  • Crotch Rocket
  • ****
  • Posts: 1897
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: 12907
  • Membership Level: Active
IIRC SISF has mentioned taking a blow dryer and heating the pickup coils in an effort to make them fail.  If I thought those were the issue, I think I'd try that and see what happened.  In this case, with a cold engine, heat the coils before the bike is started and see if the bike failed to start AFTER the pickup coils were heated with the blow dryer.  HTH
2005 Kawasaki Concours
2001 Kawasaki Concours
1982 Suzuki GS1100GK
1983 Honda GL650I SilverWing

Offline ZXtasy

  • Street Cruiser
  • ****
  • Posts: 609
  • It rides the bike or it gets the lotion!
  • AREA: Northwest Area
  • COG#: 12569
  • Membership Level: Active
"sat for a year..", SMH and walk away.....
2013 ZG-1400, 2005 ZX-10R (Nekkid), 2012 TW-200, 1999 TW-200....and more to come.

Offline Bud

  • Crotch Rocket
  • ****
  • Posts: 1897
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: 12907
  • Membership Level: Active
Maybe I'm wrong, but it seems most carb'd bikes start the walk towards death because of sitting.  It's one of those preventable issues that is all too common.  What a shame.  :??:  I'd hate to know how many bikes met their death because of that. :'(
2005 Kawasaki Concours
2001 Kawasaki Concours
1982 Suzuki GS1100GK
1983 Honda GL650I SilverWing

Online m in sc

  • Road Bike
  • ***
  • Posts: 488
    • 2strokeworld.net
  • AREA: Southeast Area
  • COG#: 13057
  • Membership Level: Active
it runs for a few minutes then dies. not the quality of the fuel or it wouldnt start and run for 5 minutes, then retart again later...so rule that out.

possible clogged ports in carbs? yes but still, it ran.

2 things possible:
1:fuel starvation (due to petcock or clogged tank vent.  Or kinked line) try to run on prime with fuel cap open. just for testing purposes.
2: spark, or lack thereof. gets warm ish, bike cuts off. classic elec issue.

verify spark, or loss of after bike dies. just pull plug lead out of end cyl, like #4, put spare plug in end of lead, lay on head, turn over look for spark. if it doesn't spark, its ignition. if it does spark, its fuel related.

i'm going to lean towards ignition. possible dirty or corroded connection from sitting. was it in a humid environment?

 


I break stuff. I fix stuff. (rinse & repeat as necessary)

Offline Kawasakiking

  • Big Wheels
  • Posts: 5
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: Forum
  • Membership Level: Forum Subscriber
Thank you everyone for the replies. I did find a kink in the line and fuel filter pretty clogged . Changed line and cleaned fuel filter. Ran considerable better. Didn't get to test ride it yet. But I'll post the results. Thanks again.

Offline SteveJ.

  • I Need a Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 5991
  • AREA: Southeast Area
  • COG#: 5603
  • Membership Level: Active
Thank you everyone for the replies. I did find a kink in the line and fuel filter pretty clogged . Changed line and cleaned fuel filter. Ran considerable better. Didn't get to test ride it yet. But I'll post the results. Thanks again.

For clarity, the fuel filter you cleaned, was it external or internal to the gas tank? There is an internal screen mounted (hopefully fully) to the petc0ck. Any externall is an after market mod, I used a Napa 3006 on my c-10. It has a 90* angle to facilitate fuel line routing.
Yeah, if you want true ram air tuning, you better be willing to ram some air! (SiSF)
Tick Tock, baby (Ironbuttal)
Steve J  Tavares, FL, one of the Floriduh Steves
'15 Versys650LT, '98 KLR650, (back home), '99 C-10, 234k miles sold

Offline Kawasakiking

  • Big Wheels
  • Posts: 5
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: Forum
  • Membership Level: Forum Subscriber
It was a external filter just rode it and it quit again on me really don't think it's a fuel problem but it did do alot better for a few min then it all the sudden died and the battery was sluggish still can't find a short... SMH..... If the stator in the left side crank case was bad or shorting would that cause my condition??? Really ran great for 10 min or so

Offline Jim

  • Tricycle
  • Posts: 44
  • AREA: Southeast Area
  • COG#: 12723
  • Membership Level: Active
Just a thought... Have you checked your fuel cap vents? I recently had a Vulcan 750 with the same exact symptoms. I had just finished spending lots of time cleaning those carbs, adjusting and syncing them. (And you guys think the carb bank is hard to get off these bikes... 😁). About the third time out when it started to stutter and stumble, I was getting pissed. Then the lightbulb went off. I opened the tank cap and right back to running she went. Took it home, took apart the tank cap and cleaned and unstuck the little valves in there. No more problems.

Offline Bud

  • Crotch Rocket
  • ****
  • Posts: 1897
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: 12907
  • Membership Level: Active
it runs for a few minutes then dies. not the quality of the fuel or it wouldnt start and run for 5 minutes, then retart again later...so rule that out.

possible clogged ports in carbs? yes but still, it ran.

2 things possible:
1:fuel starvation (due to petcock or clogged tank vent.  Or kinked line) try to run on prime with fuel cap open. just for testing purposes.
2: spark, or lack thereof. gets warm ish, bike cuts off. classic elec issue.

verify spark, or loss of after bike dies. just pull plug lead out of end cyl, like #4, put spare plug in end of lead, lay on head, turn over look for spark. if it doesn't spark, its ignition. if it does spark, its fuel related.

i'm going to lean towards ignition. possible dirty or corroded connection from sitting. was it in a humid environment?
Did you try what Mark suggested?  Jim is also nudging you towards a simple solution.  It's really helpful in troubleshooting problems if you try the simple things and report back what the result was.  If it were mine, I'd pop the gas cap and see what happens.  Trying prime on the petcock is also very simple and could help others help you if tried and the results reported.  Many problems could be solved much more quickly if folks with problems would take this approach.  Just trying to get your problem solved as soon as possible.  HTH :)
2005 Kawasaki Concours
2001 Kawasaki Concours
1982 Suzuki GS1100GK
1983 Honda GL650I SilverWing

Offline batboy

  • Road Bike
  • ***
  • Posts: 324
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: 12983
  • Membership Level: Active
Thank you everyone for the replies. I did find a kink in the line and fuel filter pretty clogged . Changed line and cleaned fuel filter. Ran considerable better. Didn't get to test ride it yet. But I'll post the results. Thanks again.

Ok, I think you're on the right track. You say the fuel line was kinked. This seems to happen a lot when people put on an inline filter. It even happened to me. What was done to fix the kink? If you just rerouted the line a little, it still might be kinking once the bike warms up (the radiant heat from the engine makes the kink worse because it softens the rubber hose). If the bike sat for a long time, I'd sit the tank on the bench and drain it into a suitable container to get out any sediment and old gas, then put fresh gas in. I would also think about reinforcing the area that kinked because the hose walls there are probably weak. A temporary fix would be to put a worm-gear hose clamp over the kink and tighten just enough so it won't slip, but not tight enough to cut off flow. I would also try this without the filter since you have clean gas in the tank now. If you still have the same issue, then the petcock filter might be clogged. I could see how a little flow of gas would fill up the float bowls over time, but when you tried to run it, the gas in the bowls are used faster than can be refilled.  Of course, you could have multiple problems. If it still dies after you do everything I suggested, check for spark immediately after it dies next time.
« Last Edit: August 31, 2019, 12:02:57 pm by batboy »
1988 Kawasaki Concours ZG1000 - Ninja Edition
Bike has the usual accessories and modifications

Offline Bud

  • Crotch Rocket
  • ****
  • Posts: 1897
  • AREA: North Central Area
  • COG#: 12907
  • Membership Level: Active
Thank you everyone for the replies. I did find a kink in the line and fuel filter pretty clogged . Changed line and cleaned fuel filter. Ran considerable better. Didn't get to test ride it yet. But I'll post the results. Thanks again.

Ok, I think you're on the right track. You say the fuel line was kinked. This seems to happen a lot when people put on an inline filter. It even happened to me. What was done to fix the kink? If you just rerouted the line a little, it still might be kinking. once the bike warms up (the radiant heat from the engine makes the kink worse because it softens the rubber hose. If the bike sat for a long time, I'd sit the tank on the bench and drain it into a suitable container to get out any sediment and old gas, then put fresh gas in. I would also think about reinforcing the area that kinked because the hose walls there are probably weak. A temporary fix would be to put a worm-gear hose clamp over the kink and tighten just enough so it won't slip, but not tight enough to cut off flow. I would also try this without the filter since you have clean gas in the tank now. If you still have the same issue, then the petcock filter might be clogged. I could see how a little flow of gas would fill up the float bowls over time, but when you tried to run it, the gas in the bowls are used faster than can be refilled.  Of course, you could have multiple problems. If it still dies after you do everything I suggested, check for spark immediately after it dies next time.
If he's using Tygon fuel line, that stuff softens a lot due to engine heat.  I ran into that problem with the line kinking on my Silverwing after the Tygon line got hot.
2005 Kawasaki Concours
2001 Kawasaki Concours
1982 Suzuki GS1100GK
1983 Honda GL650I SilverWing

Offline connie_rider

  • "OtP" {retired/assistant} Slave Labor
  • I Need a Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 9985
  • Help us make "OtP" possible! "AGAIN"
  • AREA: South Central Area
  • COG#: 4154
  • Membership Level: Asst. Area Director
Refer to Reply #4 and clean the grounds...

Ride safe, Ted
« Last Edit: August 31, 2019, 02:21:28 pm by connie_rider »
14 Connie (Traveler II) / 03 Connie (Buddy)
Gone but not forgotten; 87 and 00 Connies..

If your not already a COGger, "consider becoming one".
Help us make "OtP" possible again!!