Author Topic: Need detail about cooling fan switch and circuit - on the road and fan not ok  (Read 661 times)

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Offline LeeM

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I am on a short road trip and the bike is overheating when freeway traffic slows for many miles. Location: Stockton California. I saw the overheating (boiling by the freeway when stopped) two weeks ago. Darn I could kick myself for thinking add coolant and apply vacuum to burp the system was enough.

My Clymers manual doesn't tell me where the temperature switch for the cooling fan is located. Could  somebody tell me precisely where the switch is? Can I see it at all without removing the fairings?

Second, what is the circuit from the breaker box to the cooling fan? I re-soldered the breaker box terminals some months ago and i never tested if the circuit to the cooling fan was OK. Is the cooling fan temperature switch a two terminal device that makes a closed circuit when hot?

I have a 12 volt test light and I don't have a schematic to the bike. I have a 10mm wrench and philips screwdriver.

I need that cooling fan to work. Thanks for a few informative responses.

Offline Bud

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Sorry to hear of your troubles while on a road trip.  The temp sending unit screws into the lower left side of the radiator.  You might be able to get the two wires off of the temp sending unit off and jump the two without removing the fairing lower.  The fan will stay on all the time unless you wire in a switch.  I would probably remove the plastic to make it all easier and allow you to wire in a toggle switch.  You might also want to be able to see the fan to make sure you don't have some melted fan blades or some other issue.  Here's a pic I took just now to help.  Good luck!
« Last Edit: June 09, 2018, 08:49:00 am by Bud »

Offline Bob_C_CT

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Yes those, two wires and the back of the fan switch can be viewed from the left side vent. Taking the wire bullet connectors off is somewhat difficult because you cannot fit your hand in there to get a good grip and a lot more harder to put back on without a needle nose plier. You can jump the two prongs on the back of the switch to tell if that is the culprit. Most auto parts stores should have an automotive replacement for the switch.
Once the side panel is off its easy to replace, remove old one cover hole with finger, install new one. Just be careful on your radiator while tryiny to unloose, luckily mine came out easy. Most recommend an impact gun so you are not unevenly torquing your radiator.
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Offline DaveSz

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Fan fuse is the separate white fuse socket that sits just above the J-box.  10 amp.   
Power is always on to the fan switch. 
Had a similar problem, but mine was just the connection at the fuse.  Cleaned and slightly twisted the fuse blades. 

Good luck.

Dave
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Offline connie_rider

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Lee:
Others have given you the correct info.
Check the fuse and/or jump the temp switch wires.
I've had to do this on the road before.
   Do-able with the tools you have, or go by a harbor Freight and by their extra long needle nose pliers..
    NOTE: (as a Cogger} you also have a plan "B".

Do you have your members handbook with you?
If yes, try to find another COGger locally that has tools..

Ride safe, Ted
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Offline JPD

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If jumping the fan works, every time you stop pull the side cover and remove the fuse. That can get you home to be able to replace the switch. I have Murph's fuse box under the cover and used the 10a fuse from the fan curcuit in it with a jumper to the fan fuse holder. The fan came on and off with the key.

Offline LeeM

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Thank you very much for the information and pointers.

I was just out in the parking lot. I confirmed the fuse tests  OK, I found power on one temp switch terminal and the wire color code was right.  As explained, I can't reach the switch but with longnose pliers the connectors are reachable.

This Connie came with a Stockton motorcycle dealer license plate frame. Using my (new to me) cell phone google maps search I see a number of motorcycle shops. It is Saturday night so I see a number of solutions.

I am tilting in favor of buy longnose pliers and figure out what the wires need for connecting together. The device will be a U of some kind. Then tape the U to prevent shorts.  Then remove the junction box cover and pull the fuse to stop the fan.
Lee
« Last Edit: June 10, 2018, 03:50:25 am by LeeM, Reason: say more »

Offline Bud

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Go to the store of your choice and get a couple of cotter pins to use for a jumper, or get a toggle switch and a roll of wire so that you can turn the fan off when you stop to eat etc.  You've got a screwdriver.  Pull the middle fairing so you can get to everything easily and be able to inspect the fan.  It's just not hard or really even that time consuming to pull a piece of plastic.  I'd rather spend a bit more time pulling plastic and making the inspection and fix easier than cussing and fumbling because I refused to do the work to gain clear access.  I think I'd leave replacement of the temp sending unit until you get back home.  You could potentially create yourself a larger problem if you happened to make a mistake messing with coolant.  I'm betting that this experience will get you to make sure you have a decent selection of tools with you when you ride.  Sure is hard to help yourself without them!  Ted had a good point about finding another cogger to help.  If you were in my area, I'd come help!

Offline m in sc

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i had this happen on the blue ridge parkway last year i used my battery tender leads to make a sub harness and zip tied it to the fairing vent for the remainder of the trip. unplugged it when i stopped.

swing by a home depot or autozone, get a pack of bullet wire connectors, some wire, and rig up a switch. it will keep you going.  :beerchug:






Offline JPD

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I found a plug for truck/trailer clearance lights at a truck stop. It had two male bullet connectors in it. Plug your fan wires onto it strip the leads, twist and tape the wire ends. Then i taped it to the side of the fairing just to keep it stable.  You might want to pull the fuse while you are working on the switch wires. Plug in the fuse after you have jumpered switch and are ready to ride. You should have just enough wire on the switch leads get them to the opening in the faring to jumper or wire in a temp switch.

Offline connieklr

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I bailed an out-of-town COGger once when he called about a similar fan switch failure. I had all the stuff and made up a "harness" with a toggle switch, couple feet of wire, and male bullet connectors on the ends. Met him in a parking lot on the other side of town and we jury-rigged in the "fix" so he could continue on his way.
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Offline LeeM

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Thank you for the information about the cooling fan switch and road repairs.

I bought parts at a hardware store in northern Stockton off of I-5. I tried using a trailer tail light pigtail and found the bullet connectors are not the standard .156" diameter bullets. Then I bought a second trailer light pigtail and a 6 piece pack of .156" male blue bullet connectors. To avoid a second roadside fiasco, I pulled the fan fuse (as described earlier) before starting work. The first try crimping the bullet connector with long nose pliers on my knees in a parking lot did not work. So I stripped the wire again, doubled it, and crimped it with the short solid flat of the pliers.

The result was two trailer light pigtail connectors plugged in to each other, hanging out the left upper engine air vent. Then tape used to secure the wires from the 70 mph air flow and most importantly absolutely be sure the connectors did not touch the motorcycle frame. I needed the fan while put-putting around Walnut Creek.

At one point I drove down a 2 lane side road I lost my footing at a turnout and the bike fell over and started leaking gasoline.The retired man who lived nearby got his two sons to help me pick up the bike.  While the bike dried off, the landowner and I sat at a little table in the middle of his oak tree orchard. We are both about 70 and we talked about irrigation, our kids in college and he gave me some direction about where the NOAA tall tower CO2 measuring station was located.

Offline Alias?

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If jumping the fan works, every time you stop pull the side cover and remove the fuse. That can get you home to be able to replace the switch. I have Murph's fuse box under the cover and used the 10a fuse from the fan curcuit in it with a jumper to the fan fuse holder. The fan came on and off with the key.

More details explaining the "jumper to the fan fuse holder" including close up well-lit pictures would be very much appreciated.
It would also be great if there were pictures of the "fuse box under the cover."   Thanks in advance.

Offline JPD

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The first photo is of the marker light harness I used to jumper the fan switch. I can get to the fan switch with the fairing on with the leather man tool I keep in a dash pocket. The ends of the harness are twisted together and taped with the white tape. The 2nd to 4th are of my Murph's Kits fuse box and the jumper I made to the fan fuse holder. I was able to make it on the road with a stop to Lowes for the wire and connectors and the leather man to crimp them. The fuse panel includes the relay and wires to control and power it, plus the mounting clamps. It is only powered with the key on. With both jumpers in place the fan will run anytime the key is on and still has fuse protection.

Offline Alias?

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Thank you for the information about the cooling fan switch and road repairs.

I bought parts at a hardware store in northern Stockton off of I-5. I tried using a trailer tail light pigtail and found the bullet connectors are not the standard .156" diameter bullets. Then I bought a second trailer light pigtail and a 6 piece pack of .156" male blue bullet connectors. To avoid a second roadside fiasco, I pulled the fan fuse (as described earlier) before starting work. The first try crimping the bullet connector with long nose pliers on my knees in a parking lot did not work. So I stripped the wire again, doubled it, and crimped it with the short solid flat of the pliers.

The result was two trailer light pigtail connectors plugged in to each other, hanging out the left upper engine air vent. Then tape used to secure the wires from the 70 mph air flow and most importantly absolutely be sure the connectors did not touch the motorcycle frame. I needed the fan while put-putting around Walnut Creek.

. . . .

Might you be able to post some well-lit close-up photos?    Thanks in advance.

Offline Alias?

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I found a plug for truck/trailer clearance lights at a truck stop. It had two male bullet connectors in it. Plug your fan wires onto it strip the leads, twist and tape the wire ends. Then i taped it to the side of the fairing just to keep it stable.  You might want to pull the fuse while you are working on the switch wires. Plug in the fuse after you have jumpered switch and are ready to ride. You should have just enough wire on the switch leads get them to the opening in the faring to jumper or wire in a temp switch.

Could you post some well-lit close-up photos?    Thanks in advance.

Offline Alias?

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The first photo is of the marker light harness I used to jumper the fan switch. I can get to the fan switch with the fairing on with the leather man tool I keep in a dash pocket. The ends of the harness are twisted together and taped with the white tape. The 2nd to 4th are of my Murph's Kits fuse box and the jumper I made to the fan fuse holder. I was able to make it on the road with a stop to Lowes for the wire and connectors and the leather man to crimp them. The fuse panel includes the relay and wires to control and power it, plus the mounting clamps. It is only powered with the key on. With both jumpers in place the fan will run anytime the key is on and still has fuse protection.

Thanks for posting the photos.   Your success in making the switched fan key operated is great.   Photo one confuses me, however.   I can see the white tape, but I can't tell where you tied into the original fan wiring.   What I think I see is the original fan wires bullet-connected to the fan switch.   Can you explain in more detail where you spliced in, or whatever, to achieve the jumpering? 

Offline JPD

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Sorry I just have the jumper laying over the original switch. You pull the wires off the fan switch and connect them togeather with the light connector. It takes the place of the temp switch. Photo is with side fairing off. You can get to the wires with the fairing on with long nose pliers. The fan will run all the time the fuse is in the white socket.