Author Topic: Removing the front and rear wheels.  (Read 8390 times)

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Offline Tele130

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Removing the front and rear wheels.
« on: January 20, 2013, 03:01:10 pm »
I have a new set of tires to install on my '06 but I'm at a loss.  For starters:

What size of sockets, alan, and box end wrenches do I need?  (I know I don't have the sizes needed for the rear axle bolts) AND

What technique do you use to jack the Connie up high enough to remove the front and rear wheels?

Offline Billy

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2013, 03:49:27 pm »
12mm allen on front. I just use the dreaded crescent wrench on back. With a 2x4 under the center stand you'll have clearance to remove the rear wheel. With the bottom fairing removed, a jack under the engine will lift the front.You have to remove the rear first to keep the bike balanced on the center stand, unless you have a motorcycle jack that can lift from two or more points.

       Cheers, Bill.

Offline Bergmen

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2013, 04:02:16 pm »
12mm allen on front. I just use the dreaded crescent wrench on back. With a 2x4 under the center stand you'll have clearance to remove the rear wheel. With the bottom fairing removed, a jack under the engine will lift the front.You have to remove the rear first to keep the bike balanced on the center stand, unless you have a motorcycle jack that can lift from two or more points.

       Cheers, Bill.

A crescent wrench? I'm tellin'...

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Boy are you going to get it (just like I did when I used pliers once).

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Offline Nosmo

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2013, 06:04:46 pm »
Another method for dealing with the wheels, if you don't have a jack, is to do them one at a time, use the center stand to hold the bike while you remove/replace the rear wheel.  Once the rear wheel is back on, about 150 pounds or so of sand bags on the rear of the seat will hold the rear end down and the rear tire against the ground while you take off the front wheel.  For added stability suggest screw some type of large eye bolt into a roof beam and use a rope or cargo strap to help hold up the handle bars and steady it.  I did mine several times that way until I got a "cherry picker" type engine hoist and now I use that to just pick up the whole bike and let it hang.  I tried an under-engine jack once and it started to slip and I came within a micron of having the bike fall on top of me. 
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Offline dave_h

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2013, 06:16:42 pm »
Quote
With a 2x4 under the center stand you'll have clearance to remove the rear wheel

This is key.

The lower than average rear fender doesn't allow the rear wheel to come out of the rear wheel well unless the center stand is up on a 2 x 4. The question is how do you get the centerstand up on a 2 x 4. I did it without any special aids once without injury although it was a real physical challenge. I had to do it again one week ago so I could change the rear tire. Wasn't so lucky this time. My back is still smarting a week after the fact.

The safest way to get up on a 2 x 4 is to roll both the front and rear tires up onto 2 x 4's. Then, and only then, put a 2 x 4 under the centerstand. Much easier.

Offline ManWorkingHere

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2013, 06:26:44 pm »
I have a new set of tires to install on my '06 but I'm at a loss.  For starters:

What size of sockets, alan, and box end wrenches do I need?  (I know I don't have the sizes needed for the rear axle bolts) AND

What technique do you use to jack the Connie up high enough to remove the front and rear wheels?

may i come watch these shenanigans?
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Offline Jorge

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #6 on: January 20, 2013, 07:13:49 pm »
Here's another way my friend Dave showed me...
Put Connie on center stand as usual.
Weigh rear end down to lift front wheel.
Take attach strong straps from center stand to a solid point forward of the stand.
Remove front wheel.
Place 1x4 under fork ends (or something to keep them from hitting floor).
Remove weights from rear.
Tip bike forward (straps keep stand from folding) until resting on forks.
Now remove rear wheel.
I tied the straps to the tip-over bars, which are solid enough for the purpose, and it worked well. Actually, he's done without tying the stand, but I'm a little too chicken for that, so we added the step using the straps to quench my fears.

Jorge

Offline 2linby

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2013, 07:37:37 pm »
Are you pulling the wheels and someone else is mounting the tires?

If so you can do just one at a time. Might be easier if you do not have a lift.

Front wheel.

Loosen everything with the front tire on the ground and the rear on the centerstand but do not remove anything yet.
Have a couple short 4x4 blocks to chock under the forks at approximately the height of the bike at rest when the wheel is off (some folks use floor jacks)

1) Loosen up the axle pinch bolts
2) Remove the speedo cable and tie it up
3) Remove the calipers, tie them up and place a wood wedge between the pads (just in case someone grabs your front brake by mistake)
4) Loosen up the axle nut
5) With the bike on the centerstand weigh the rear end down (someone holding it down will work)
6) Note the position of the speedo hub against the inside of the left fork (there is a "stop" that the speedo hub rests against)
7) Pull the axle out (you may have to drive it out with a drift) remove the wheel and make sure the speedo hub and rightside spacer do not get lost.

Tools:
Allen wrenches 8mm, 12mm
Pliers (yes Dan pliers!) for the speedo cable nut and cotter pin in the rear castle nut
12mm socket, 3" extension and ratchet all 3/8" drive is fine( 12mm wrench will work, but harder)
17mm socket (rear axle and brake boss))
27mm socket (rear axle castle nut)
Drift pin if you have one
Torque wrench is nice but most do "gooden-tight"  But the specs are:
26 ft-lbs Axle pinch bolts
32 ft-lbs Caliper mounting bolts
65 ft-lbs Axle nut
80 ft-lbs Rear axle nut

Rear wheel:

1) Remove the saddle bags
2) Center stand the bike and place a 2x6 under the center stand (some have to place a double stack of 2x6's to gain enough clearance height to remove the wheel)
3) Remove the mufflers (yes it can be done with the rightside muffler in place, but there are only 2 bolts so why work around it)
There is a clamp under your the front foot pegs and a bolt at the rear foot pegs
4) Remove the castle nut cotter pin and toss it away (replace with a new one they are cheap)
5) Remove the rear caliper top nut attached to the rear caliper boss (the arm on top) 17mm and swing this arm all the way up and out of the way
6) Loosen the axle, remove the castle nut and drive or pull the axle out to the leftside far enough to pull the caliper with mount up and out of the way (wedge the pads)
7) Pull the wheel to the rightside supporting it from underneath from the rear drive unit
8.) Slip wheel out from the bike. (sometimes if you only need "a little more clearance" you can pull the valve stem core and flatten the tire a bit)


I am sure I missed something.......... anyone?
« Last Edit: January 20, 2013, 07:39:39 pm by 2linby »
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Offline J.R.

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #8 on: January 20, 2013, 09:31:46 pm »
I've taken both front and rear wheels off at the same time before. Fortunately, I had a big neighbor close by when the center of gravity shifted with the removal of the second wheel (I don't recall which was first) and the whole bike tried valiantly to tip one way or the other on the center stand. Not fun. Have done it again since, but made a stand to nest the fork ends with the front wheel off. Then when the CoG shifts, it's right into the stand.

Offline odie

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #9 on: January 22, 2013, 08:57:58 pm »
I've got both my wheels off right now...

I put it on the center stand and jacked under the engine case to lift and remove the front wheel...

dropped the front forks onto a 2x4...

rear fender now high enough that the tire just slid out...

looks funny with the a** way in the air :))
2003 Concours sold :(
2001 Concours "crashed & burned"
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Offline Bergmen

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #10 on: January 22, 2013, 09:49:15 pm »
I've got both my wheels off right now...

I put it on the center stand and jacked under the engine case to lift and remove the front wheel...

dropped the front forks onto a 2x4...

rear fender now high enough that the tire just slid out...

looks funny with the a** way in the air :))

Be extremely careful with this as the bike can flip right off the center stand in this position. I would recommend raising the front end up, putting a dummy axle through the front axle holes and supporting with automotive axle stands.

Dan
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Offline odie

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #11 on: January 23, 2013, 07:05:29 pm »
Oh...I get it...the front of the bike being pivoted down causes the center stand pivot point to move forward closer center stand foot print.
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Offline zetec7

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #12 on: January 24, 2013, 12:29:56 am »
I cheated, I guess.  Left my center stand folded, put a floor jack (with a piece of plywood on top to avoid scratches), and jacked her up under the folded center stand.  Gives a nice stable platform, and you can get it waaay up in the air for rear wheel/fender clearance.
"The Professor"

Offline odie

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #13 on: January 24, 2013, 01:36:14 pm »
Be extremely careful with this as the bike can flip right off the center stand in this position. I would recommend raising the front end up, putting a dummy axle through the front axle holes and supporting with automotive axle stands.

Dan
[/quote]

thanks for the warning...i got home and looked at it...the center stand was completely vertical, not "over-centered"...just a slight push would have sent the bike forward and crashing...the only thing really holding it was the forks setting on the floor and the friction keeping the forks from being able to slide forward....

anyway, i CAREFULLY jacked up the bike under the engine case and set the forks on a big cinder block about a foot in the air, so now the center stand is locked "over-center"...additionally I got a couple tie-down straps and hooked the center stand legs and forks together nice and snug...so the center stand cannot move backwards and up.
2003 Concours sold :(
2001 Concours "crashed & burned"
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Offline mdr

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #14 on: February 12, 2013, 09:04:04 pm »
OK, seriously - just pull the 4 cap nuts on the transfer case after pulling the axle and moving the brake caliper up.  Pull the wheel out the left side.  Don't need a 2x6 or anything to get more clearance.  Just did it this morning, and it's really pretty simple.  Think it took my 1/2 hour to do it all, including messing up a little. 

This makes servicing the drive splines on the case MUCH easier too since they're sitting in your lap.  Change the oil in it too while it's off.  Only tricky part is putting the spring back in the right way.  When putting it back together, don't fully tighten the cap nuts until after the axle is torqued.  You want the case to be able to move a little when torquing the axle.

I've tried the board under the center stand trick, and I thought it was much more of a PITA (getting another board under the rear wheel so you don't get a hernia trying to put it up, etc) than just pulling off the punkin'.

Getting the rear wheel back on tho', sometimes a pry bar under the tread to lift the wheel/tire assembly works wonders getting it lined up to slide the axle in while aligning the splines.
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Offline Jay

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #15 on: June 28, 2018, 09:52:12 pm »
Hi Group,

Connie Newbie here.  I'm trying to remove the front axel and the 12mm allen bolt isn't budgeting.  Is this standard or reverse thread.  I tried both ways and don't want to push too hard or give it mallet tap and damage something.  Pinch bolts are out.  Hoping to get this done this evening if anyone is online.  Thanks

Offline connie_rider

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #16 on: June 28, 2018, 10:20:43 pm »
Anyone outing a 2 x 4 under the center stand;
   NEVER/EVER try to get the bike on top of a 2 x 4 with pure muscle.
     You'll end up a tenor...

This is how I did it…..

1# Put bike on center stand as usual.
2# IMPORTANT: Add a strap to ensure center-stand "stays" forward.
3# Lean bike to 1 side and have helper place a small 2 x 4 under opposite side
4# Lean bike to opposite side and have helper place a small 2 x 4 under remaining side
5# Pull and replace rear tire
6# Break axle loose on front.
7# Jack under front of engine.
8# Pull and replace front tire
9# Repeat process to get bike off of 2 x 4's.
10# Retighten all.
11# Remove strap that ensured the center-stand "stayed" forward.

If you insist on doing both wheels, do as Dan sed;  I would recommend raising the front end up, putting a dummy axle through the front axle holes and supporting with automotive axle stands.

I may have missed something? The main thing is don't hurt yourself or your bike..

Ride safe, Ted

« Last Edit: June 29, 2018, 01:24:41 pm by connie_rider »
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Offline WillyP

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #17 on: June 29, 2018, 12:15:58 pm »
Ted, yes you missed something. The thing is that this is a bumped thread from 2013 and the bumper asked a question. This is why most forums have a rule against bumping old threads, and why people should start a new thread instead.

But, to answer Jay's question... IIRC it is not reverse threads, but one side is the axle, and the other is the nut, and it can be installed either way. It might take some extra torque to break it loose, as people tend to think well, it's the axle, needs to be super tight, and also if you are wrenching on the axle side it takes more torque than the nut side too.
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Offline Bob_C_CT

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #18 on: June 29, 2018, 12:31:05 pm »
Keep the pinch bolts tight on one side and break the other side loose. You may need an extension on a breaker bar to break it loose.
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Offline connie_rider

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #19 on: June 29, 2018, 01:23:49 pm »
Thanks Willy. Arghhh, I hate it when that happens.   >:(

Jay, Rotate the right side, not the left side {where the speedo drive is located) counter-clockwise like a normal thread.
  Because; Rotating the left side can sometimes rotate and break the speedo drive.

Ride safe, Ted
« Last Edit: June 30, 2018, 04:45:30 pm by connie_rider »
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Offline Yamahawk

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #20 on: June 30, 2018, 01:02:27 pm »
Just to add to what connie_rider and everyone else has suggested, use a ratchet strap or 2 from the tip over bars in the front to the center stand so it cannot fold up. I used to do this on my Yamaha Venture Royale, pull the front wheel, then I would let the front forks down on the pavement, and remove the rear wheel.
As far as a 2x4, I would suggest a 2x8 or wider, and run the bike up on it. Matter of fact, get an 8' 2x8, cut the last 18" off, placing it at the rear of the now 6 1/2' 2x8, and roll the bike up on the two pieces, short one under the rear tire. Then, put the bike on the center stand on the 2x8's, and remove the 18"2x8 from under the rear tire. This should be safer than trying it just on a 2x4.
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Offline TimR

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Re: Removing the front and rear wheels.
« Reply #21 on: June 30, 2018, 11:41:06 pm »
Well, I know deep subject but it shows someone used the search function. Although I agree a bit old to revive.
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