You have some confusing info in your posts. I suggest you pause things and figure out what's really going on.
I cannot do the rod check. I placed it into TDC did #1 started to rotate it right before #1 turns 180deg it hits metal. Either a bent rod on #1 or 4 or a bent or dropped valve #2 or 3.
Not sure why you were spinning the engine to do the bent rod test as it can be done with the engine at rest with the head on or off (it can be done through the spark plug holes) for both pairs of cylinders. 1&4, 2&3. If both pairs match (engine position is irrelevant) you can move away from the bent rod theory. See the SISF vids on how to do this.
I did a valve adjustment. Then started the motor afterward. It started banging on the left side.
So something was going on, then something more once you did a valve adjustment?
I do not know if this would have anything to do with this but Number 3 intake valves had 30 ths clearance.
That is a LOT of clearance ! - over 4 times the top of the recommended range for intake valves (.005 - .007). Are you certain of this measurement? Is it possible it was incorrect and you overcompensated in your adjustments there? I would want to find out how that measurement was possible.
My brother in law who used to race a 165 Hp kz1000 in the late 70's and early 80's thinks I bent a valve. He says it has always been the only weak link in the Mama Kaw's 1ltr motor.
You may have bent a valve, but its not common to hear about a ZG1000.
Before pulling engine, I would start gradually with the easiest most likely things first, until you know what is actually wrong because it sounds like you still don't know for sure.
All of them can be done with the engine in the frame. Number 3 does require draining the oil.
1 - Do a bent rod test and
verify for sure if you have a bent rod or not. See the vids on how to do this - there is no engine turning required! You can tell which rod(s) are the culprit(s) if measurements don't match up between the pairs. (1 vs. 4, 2 vs. 3) What are the differences if any? It doesn't have to be much to indicate a bent rod.
If its a bent rod 2 or 3, they can be replaced without pulling the engine. If 1 or 4, pulling the engine is required.
2 - Since some of this seems to have started after your last valve adjustment per your previous posts, pull the valve cover to see if something is missing / loose / binding up in there. Verify clearances, check for loose / missing locknuts and or adjuster screws. Not being cute here, but did you follow the right procedure to adjust valves? This does require rotating the engine into 2 separate positions to do all 16 valves. Did you double check them? Did you properly torque the adjuster lock nuts down and double check?
3 - This is a more remote possibility, but pull clutch cover and check the ACT (Alternator Chain Tensioner) - these can let go and create a lot of slapping / banging noise or even engine binding if errant pieces get in the wrong places.
4 - Pull the head and look for bent valves / damage or foreign / broken stuff in cylinders.
All this can be done with engine in frame to determine what is actually going on.