Rough acceleration <3000 rpm...

[Cjweaver13]

Trying to figure out what could cause poor/inconsistent acceleration between 1-3000rpm. After this it pulls hard and smooth. First I just figured the bike simply doesn't like to be in this range, but then 1st gear will always suck at first. Bike has 35k miles on it

There was some water in the gas and carbs after being stored b for 4 years by PO. Gas tank and carbs were cleaned, and floats were replaced in carbs.

Thoughts/verification's from COG...Should carbs be gone through again, or run some seafoam or other additive through a couple tanks and see if it stops? Haven't pulled plugs yet but could they be fouled and just need to be replaced? Next week I'll have the fairing off for oil change so just wondering if I should go a step further and pull the tank and go through anything else, or other ideas in general you all have. Thanks!

[oldsmoboat]

Mine ran like that after I replaced the petcock.  We figure I stirred up some water pulling the tank.  Ran a bottle of water remover additive and t cleared it up.

[Bob_C_CT]

Seems that your low speed carb circuit passages may be clogged, very small diameter and that circuit is used in the rpm range you are having problems with. Once clogged very unlikely to clear using gas additives as the fuel wont get through the blockage, usually need to be cleaned by mechanical means. When you cleaned the carbs did you make sure all passageways were cleared? Remove the slides with the diaphragms before using any solvents in the carbs, as the diaphragms are not solvent resistant and are costly to replace.

[Cjweaver13]

Seems that your low speed carb circuit passages may be clogged, very small diameter and that circuit is used in the rpm range you are having problems with. Once clogged very unlikely to clear using gas additives as the fuel wont get through the blockage, usually need to be cleaned by mechanical means. When you cleaned the carbs did you make sure all passageways were cleared? Remove the slides with the diaphragms before using any solvents in the carbs, as the diaphragms are not solvent resistant and are costly to replace.

I basically pulled them and sprayed the crap out of them with brake cleaner. Like you said the passages are so small it was hard to tell. My father has an ultrasonic cleaner, might throw in there...

[Steve in Sunny Fla]

the typical answer is going to be carbs, but it could also be valve adjustment issues. I have a series of you tube videos that will help you. Check out "why we need to do valve adjustments" to better understand the relationship between low rpm issues and tight valves.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQEFWeFeqUo&t=195s

   here's another on idling

     https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LZ4WbgiihI

     Steve

[Cjweaver13]

the typical answer is going to be carbs, but it could also be valve adjustment issues. I have a series of you tube videos that will help you. Check out "why we need to do valve adjustments" to better understand the relationship between low rpm issues and tight valves.

Thanks Steve, I've watched both and will look at valves as well. In the 2nd video on idling, what was it you were adjusting that changed from idle rpm of about 950-1000, just the idle adjust. on carbs? or something else. The way it accepts throttle looked very similar to my symptoms now. Thanks

[Steve in Sunny Fla]

Thanks Steve, I've watched both and will look at valves as well. In the 2nd video on idling, what was it you were adjusting that changed from idle rpm of about 950-1000, just the idle adjust. on carbs? or something else. The way it accepts throttle looked very similar to my symptoms now. Thanks

 I was just turning down the idle knob. and if you bike "accepts throttle" like that, at 250 rpms, then you have one of the best set up connies in the country. Steve

[Cjweaver13]

Thanks Steve, I've watched both and will look at valves as well. In the 2nd video on idling, what was it you were adjusting that changed from idle rpm of about 950-1000, just the idle adjust. on carbs? or something else. The way it accepts throttle looked very similar to my symptoms now. Thanks

 I was just turning down the idle knob. and if you bike "accepts throttle" like that, at 250 rpms, then you have one of the best set up connies in the country. Steve

It definitely does not lol Didn't realize you turned it down that low. Watched again and jaw dropped!

[connie_rider]

CJ, I had a problem child with similar problems.
Unfortunately on mine, the problem would change, wasn't consistent.. 

Steve https://sites.google.com/site/shoodabenengineering/home rebuilt the carbs and it was definitely better, but something wasn't right.
He helped me trouble shoot over the phone, and neither of us could quite find it.
After a lot of frustration, I trailered it to a National and he looked at it.
  5 minutes later he sed, "spark plug wires and boots"...
        Did that, and problem solved..

I suspect yours is carbs, but do look at your plug wires..

Ride safe, Ted

[Cjweaver13]

CJ, I had a problem child with similar problems.
Unfortunately on mine, the problem would change, wasn't consistent.. 

Steve rebuilt the carbs and it was definitely better, but something wasn't right.
He helped me trouble shoot and neither of us could quite find it.
Finally I took it to a National and he looked at it.
5 minutes later he sed, "spark plug wires and boots"...
  Did that, and problem solved..

I love simeple fixes and will take a look. Thanks Ted!

[connie_rider]

In my case, Steve suggested I order the wires from Gary Murphy.
   https://www.murphskits.com/                     https://www.murphskits.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_92&products_id=51&osCsid=7PhMKx03fu1oR4vj4sg-B1

Murph had them delivered to the National the next day...

It got better; I was busy doing something, so Jim Snyder installed them for me.

NOTE: All 3 of these guys are typical "COGgers"...
          I highly suggest you consider joining us..

Ride safe, Ted

[Bud]

You would probably get more help if you started a new thread regarding 14 mpg with your Connie.  It would be helpful to give some history of the bike and what has been done to it since you've owned it.  Just a friendly suggestion to turn off your caps lock, as it's considered shouting.
And now something completely different!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5YEJaItFNo

[Mettler1]

Thanks Steve, I've watched both and will look at valves as well. In the 2nd video on idling, what was it you were adjusting that changed from idle rpm of about 950-1000, just the idle adjust. on carbs? or something else. The way it accepts throttle looked very similar to my symptoms now. Thanks

 I was just turning down the idle knob. and if you bike "accepts throttle" like that, at 250 rpms, then you have one of the best set up connies in the country. Steve

   I tried that with my carbs after I got them back from Sisf's spa. It would idle AND accelerate just like Steve's video!!   Only did it a couple of times as I like to keep the oil pressure up.