Author Topic: Slightly melted headlight socket from a 60/55 watt bulb. Generic socket OK?  (Read 214 times)

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Offline LeeM

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Kind of new to me my 86000 mile Connie had the headlight (hi and lo beams) stop working a few days after I rode 500 miles in a long day. Very unusual for me, was about an half an hour riding 80+ with the high beam on. At those RPMs  I'm pretty sure the electric system is putting out pretty high voltage, meaning the headlight socket is being heated more than on my usual 2500 RPM commute.

Comment: The repair plan is to replace the 60/55 watt bulb and put in a new socket as is available from Napa or O'Reilly. As I have read headlight posts on COG I gather the alternate high power light solutions exist but require re-wiring. There isn't a low energy dissipation LED that provides equivalent brightness and is also street legal. I am noticing changes in my night vision now that i am 73 yo and I am going to adapt by simply driving in the daytime.

With both high and low beam out, and the high beam indicator just glowing dim blue all the time I was puzzled. I removed the junction box and looked for a bad solder joint at the headlight relay. I made the headlight relay close and saw low resistance on the 8 and 9 headlight relay power connection.

So I started trying to find something wrong in the headlight wiring. Had I pulled a connector loose somewhere when I was swinging the front wheel from lock to lock while parallel parking? Were both beams out because the headlight ground wire was faulty?

Finally I took apart the windshield and plastic surround. I got the lightbulb and socket out. The socket has one of the three tab connectors overheated and discolored. The bulb has one overheated tab connector and the low beam filament is burned out.

The bulb is a Wagner HB2 9003GL Dot 12v 60/55 Watt Korea C0514.

Offline connieklr

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Re: Slightly melted headlight socket from a 60/55 watt bulb. Generic socket OK?
« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2019, 11:44:45 am »
Pick up a set of the sockets on eBay that have the ceramic insert. Your socket is hosed so you'll have to cut it loose, along with the plug on the new one, then solder/heat shrink it in place.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-H4-9003-Wiring-Harness-Adpter-Sockets-Cable-Wire-for-Headlights-Fog-Lights/332016082544?hash=item4d4db35e70:g:VOMAAOSw~PVcxywY:sc:USPSFirstClass!23234!US!-1
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Offline connie_rider

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Re: Slightly melted headlight socket from a 60/55 watt bulb. Generic socket OK?
« Reply #2 on: September 02, 2019, 02:30:43 pm »
LeeM, I recently installed some relatively inexpensive LED's in my C-14.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-LED-Headlight-Bulbs-HB2-PHILIPS-CSP-Kit-Light-Bulb-High-Low-Beam-8000LM-6500K/292121107958?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I think it will work fine on a C-10.
Even if you don't ride at night, it is more noticeable during the day.  :great:
  {Maybe other will comment on LED's on a C-10?}

NOTE: I installed this one as the first LED's I installed were blinding to oncoming drivers.
           This one has a cut off point that is far less glaring.

Ride safe, Ted

« Last Edit: September 02, 2019, 02:34:39 pm by connie_rider »
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Offline connieklr

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Re: Slightly melted headlight socket from a 60/55 watt bulb. Generic socket OK?
« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2019, 03:17:05 pm »
LeeM, I recently installed some relatively inexpensive LED's in my C-14.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-LED-Headlight-Bulbs-HB2-PHILIPS-CSP-Kit-Light-Bulb-High-Low-Beam-8000LM-6500K/292121107958?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I think it will work fine on a C-10.
Even if you don't ride at night, it is more noticeable during the day.  :great:
  {Maybe other will comment on LED's on a C-10?}

NOTE: I installed this one as the first LED's I installed were blinding to oncoming drivers.
           This one has a cut off point that is far less glaring.

Ride safe, Ted

That Beamtech is the same one I wound up with in my KLR. As mentioned in previous posts, I tried several between the KLR and the Connie, and they were miserable. The Beamtech was the first one that threw out a decent pattern with the existing KLR reflector and lens. A bonus is it works well with the KLR's meager alternator capacity..... especially in colder weather when the heated gear and grip warmers are in use.

The LED I tried in the Connie was also a disappointment. Actually had to have another fella ride in front of me one night when we stayed too long at a local Mission BBQ bike night; I couldn't see squat.....  not that aging eyes had anything to do with that.

I'd already replaced my bulb socket once, but found the ceramic versions and changed the old one out - even tho' it was holding up just fine. Did this because I took out the puny LED and put my 80/100 bulb back in. I also swapped out the alternator to one from a ZZR, so available current was no longer an issue......  meaning I really don't need to explore the use of an LED at this point.

Fortunately, the two LED headlamp bulbs sold on eBay for about the same as I paid for them originally, so I was a happy camper.
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Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Slightly melted headlight socket from a 60/55 watt bulb. Generic socket OK?
« Reply #4 on: September 02, 2019, 06:08:56 pm »
as Guy noted, the ceramic, or high temp sockets, soldered in, work much more reliably... but even those should be looked at closely..
Guy actually made a point years ago about the copper "internal tab connectors" not always mating well on the bulb tabs, and sure enough i found that as something that needed attention to (I ran the NAPA 80/100 bulb before)... with the power off, use a small flat screwdriver blade inserted in each tab socket, to pry them a bit, forcing them "tighter" for better tab contact.. even on the new ones..

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Offline Boomer

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Re: Slightly melted headlight socket from a 60/55 watt bulb. Generic socket OK?
« Reply #5 on: September 02, 2019, 06:51:04 pm »
When I used to run a 100W bulb I used a ceramic connector and smeared the contacts with copper grease. Now I've fitted a 35W LED and that uses way less current, but I still smear the contacts with copper grease.
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